Costume Time

Let me tell you a story about this picture:

It was our last night in Hyderabad and the local team hosted a cocktail party in celebration of everyone's work.  To be completely honest, they are the ones that deserved all the accolades, but somehow, we ended up with gifts.   

I opened up the gift bag to find shiny dark blue material - embroidered along the collar and adorned with a long row of buttons.  The local finance director informed me that it was a traditional outfit and I was instantly awe-struck by their generosity.

My first thought was that I don't have any opportunities to wear this outfit and I was envisioning it sitting in my closet for years at a time.    

Then, as if reading my mind, one of the guys exclaimed: "You must change into it for the rest of the night!"  Looking around, I noticed several nods of affirmation and I figured that I had no option but to say yes. 

My colleague had also received a similar gift (as you probably noticed from the picture), so I didn't feel quite as uncomfortable. We went up to our rooms to change quickly before re-joining the party for dinner.  As soon as I looked at myself in the mirror in my room, I got an instant feeling of self-consciousness but I had no option but to move forward.  The feeling returned when I entered the elevator and caught the amused glance of another hotel guest. Did I look like I was in costume or did people think that I was honoring the local culture by dressing in traditional garb?

Costume?  ...or fashion? 

The entire team was so enthusiastic when I re-entered the restaurant, which made me start to forget about how ridiculous I must have looked.  I mentioned to them that I was quite impressed with the overall fit (not that I even know how it should fit, but I was surprised that the sleeves were long enough, considering that the average height of men in India seems to be about 5'7''). 

One of the guys mentioned that they actually inspected my laundry to learn my measurements so they could have the jacket tailored accordingly (the pants appear to be one-size-fits-all). They also took note of the clothes that caught my attention when they took us out shopping the weekend prior.  Apparently, I was picking up a lot of dark blue shirts on our shopping excursion.  At that moment, I didn't know whether I should be completely impressed with their attention to detail or if I should be concerned that big brother is watching my every move!

I decided to focus on the positive and enjoy a meal in my perfectly-tailored outfit, and surrounded by people who displayed such incredible efforts to make my visit to Hyderabad memorable.  They certainly achieved this goal.     

Looking like locals on our last night in Hyderabad. 

Sankranti festival in Hyderabad

Who knew Hyderabad has tourist attractions?  Certainly not me, as I have been here three times and never found the time to see much more than just my hotel and the airport. 

Yesterday was the Sankranti festival, which is a harvest festival that marks the unofficial start of spring.  Traditionally, people take the day off work and fly kites to mark the occasion.  I feel like there's always a festival when I come to India, but I enjoy every chance I get to experience the local culture - especially when this involves being outside in short sleeves while my friends in the US are suffering through the coldest weather in three decades.  

Unfortunately, we were not able to take the entire day off, but the local team suggested finishing a few hours early so we could drive into town and see some sites.  We first stopped at the Qutb Shahi Tombs, which were built by five generations of former kings.  (Hyderabad even had kings - another surprise!)  These grand structures dotted the landscape and existed for the sole purpose of housing the remains of the former rulers.  The outside structures were all elaborately designed but the interiors were basically empty (with the exception of the cement caskets in the center). 

Exterior of one of the tombs

Some caskets were decorated with material and flowers

Of course I had to document myself there

Plenty of beautiful views

One of the buildings had a staircase leading to nothing, so obviously I considered it to be a good photo op.  What I didn’t expect was that while my colleagues were snapping my picture, I would attract quite a crowd that also seemed interested in taking pictures of a complete stranger looking foolish (me).  I immediately had flashbacks to China, where I often had my photo taken by complete strangers. 

Some strangers also have this picture...

Once we had spent enough time roaming through the tombs, we set off for the next destination: Golkonda Fort.  The streets immediately surrounding the fort were much more narrow and crowded.  I noticed many women with their heads covered and Islamic flags proudly displayed in front of the homes.  Kids were riding around on bicycles - also displaying flags.  Even in the middle east, people are not so outwardly religious, so I asked if this was also part of the kite festival.

The driver informed us that January 14 also happens to be the birthday of Prophet Muhammed, which explains all the religious celebrations.  I never knew that India had such a significant Muslim population, but this day out showed me a different side of India than I had ever encountered before.  It felt like a fusion of cultures. 

Kids out on the streets for the other celebration

Lots of green to represent Islam and paradise

We paid our entry fee at the fort (5 rupees for locals, 100 rupees for foreigners) and proceeded through the gates.  The fort is now in ruins, which basically just makes it a fun place for people to climb around.  (Unlike Europe, India makes no efforts to restrict people from further deteriorating the condition of historic sites).

Lots of things to climb

I also did some climbing...

No one seemed to have any information about the history of the fort, but it was still fun to roam around and enjoy the warm weather.  There is also a light & sound show at night, but we didn't bother sticking around.  

Archways were a pretty common design theme.

Our local hosts kept offering to take our pictures, so we gladly obliged

After the fort, they took us to Charminar, which is a monument/mosque that serves as the icon of the city.  Describing this area as hectic would be an understatement.  We got out of the car just briefly enough to feel the chaotic energy of the evening but I had no desire to party with all the people.  

Charminar is clearly the place to be. 

Pure chaos

It is almost difficult to know where to focus in environments like this because people are coming from all directions - by foot, bicycle, motorbike, auto rickshaw, car/taxi, and even on camels.  

If only we had brought our camels.

By this point, the sun was setting and it was time to visit the park to watch the kites.  The entire day, I noticed shops with countless kites available for sale.  These kites were not just for kids, either. People of all ages were enjoying the tradition. 

One of many shops selling kites

This kite lit up the skies...and a nearby tree. 

India is a country so rich in culture and tradition and I am extremely fortunate to have experienced yet another facet of local life.  This day of sightseeing showed me a completely different side of Hyderabad.     

Weekend with the locals in Hyderabad

On Friday afternoon, the local director in Hyderabad asked: "So, do you have any plans for the weekend?"

I truthfully admitted that we do not. 

His response: "Good, because we have plans for you" (big smile)

Me: "Oh that sounds great" (nervous half-smile)

At the end of the workday (which happened to be around 7:30 pm), a couple guys on the team asked me and my trainee to change so we could all go out for the evening.  A few minutes later, we were in the back of a hotel car and en route to a nearby temple. 

I thought back to the many Friday nights in Chicago that I spent with my colleagues after work.  Not once did these evenings begin with a trip to the temple.  

We removed our shoes at the front gate and walked through the stone enclosure.  As expected, every wall was elaborately decorated with scenes involving the many gods.  I tried asking questions to learn more about the scenes but the responses were not too detailed (beyond what I could see from looking at the images myself).  It made me wonder if most people even know much about the details of their religion or if they simply visit the temples out of routine and obligation.  Either way, it was an interesting experience and I enjoyed integrating myself into local culture (even though I probably looked completely out of place). 

One of the many scenes depicted on the walls

Central structure within the temple walls

From there, we drove through the city and stopped at a few sites that I remembered from past trips to Hyderabad.  At one point, we hit bad traffic and I noticed a broken down bus up ahead.  Then, suddenly, a bunch of passengers exited the rear door and started pushing the bus.  I literally couldn't contain my laughter, as I thought about that scenario in Chicago.  The passengers would NEVER even consider such assistance.  It's a different world out here. 

For dinner, we stopped at a well-known local chain called Paradise for some biryani.  Biryani is actually one of the few Indian foods that I enjoy because it is a simple rice dish with vegetables (or meat) and spices.  No mystery sauces that disguise the true ingredients, no yogurt, and no mustard.  The restaurant was described to me as "Mc Donald's" for biryani, which was frightening.  Fortunately, the fast-food concept was only for the street level, but there is a premium full-service restaurant on the second floor.  I think I was the only white person in the entire restaurant, but the service in India is so gracious that I didn't feel uncomfortable.  In fact, the people go out of their way to make you feel special.  (Part of me wishes they could just treat me like a regular customer because I don't like being the center of attention).

On the way out, the local guys insisted that we try paan, which is a traditional food that involves all sorts of "stuff", wrapped into a leaf.  As soon as I bit into it, my mouth was immediately filled with flavors of dish detergent and grass.  My first instinct was to immediately spit it out into my hand, but I didn't want to be rude so I tried to force some of it down my throat.  Bad idea.  I stored the rest of it on the side of my mouth until we reached the car and I had the chance to inconspicuously spit out the rest onto the sidewalk. Tip of the night: don't EVER eat paan.  

paan on the inside

I spent the next morning in a much more comfortable environment: the spa.  I didn't eat much throughout the day because I was still full from all the food that was forced onto my plate from the night before.  I have decided that being a "guest" for meals is stressful (even if they're not home cooked) because people are so eager to make you enjoy the local specialties.  It's so nice but it's also a lot of pressure in a region where food is very difficult for my palette.  

Saturday evening, we went out again - this time to the mall.  Yup, the mall.  Apparently, this is the hot spot in Hyderabad because it was filled with people.  The experience started on the awkward side because I really have no desire to shop while other people are watching me.  Maybe I've been alone for too long, but I just don't understand the appeal of shopping with other people.  Much like running, everyone has his own pace and I'd rather save the conversations for another time.  

Fortunately, the shopping part of the night was short-lived, as we stopped at an outdoor bar and shared a giant pitcher of beer.  (This bar was next to Chili's, which made me feel right at home).  If there weren't so many Indian people around, I would swear I was at a suburban mall in the United States.  

I really appreciated the time that the local team spent to entertain us during the weekend - especially considering that they work 6 day weeks and spend long hours commuting to the office each day. They managed to get me out of the hotel twice (which is a feat in itself while traveling in India).  I have a long way to go before feeling like a local, but this was a step in the right direction.  

On the road again...

The next round of travel will involve a tour of Asia.  I will spend seven weeks in India, two weeks each in the Philippines and Nepal, then a week of vacation in Vietnam and Singapore.  Flights between the US and Asia are rough and there's just no way to make them any easier.  

The first part of my journey was an overnight flight to London.  My flight arrived just before 6AM and was faced with a seven-hour layover.  I debated whether it would be worthwhile to venture into the city but then decided against it.  The college-aged me would have definitely jumped at any opportunity to run around London for a couple hours, but the world feels smaller now.  I will have plenty of other opportunities to visit London again in the future. 

The next challenge involved staying awake in the British Airways lounge while I killed time during the extended layover.  I watched a little TV on my computer until the other travelers arrived and took all the Internet bandwidth!  By lunchtime, all I wanted to do was take a shower and sleep.  

My second flight to Hyderabad felt really long and I, once again, couldn't sleep. I get so jealous of the people who can just doze in any airplane. Arrival in India the next morning had me feeling like a zombie but at least the passport control line was quick and easy (an amazing feat for India...)!

On the way to the hotel, I noticed this strange fish-shaped building along the side of the highway and I thought I had completely gone insane. 

Fish building in Hyderabad

Turns out, it wasn't just my imagination.  This building is the office of the National Fisheries Development Board.  First question: What is a land-locked city in the middle of India doing with a fisheries development board?  Second question: Has this architect ever heard of subtlety!? 

I arrived at the hotel around 5:30 in the morning - two days after departing and without any real sleep.  I set my alarm for noon and slept like a rock.  

Unfortunately, jet lag is the next challenge to conquer and it is not easy when traveling to a place that is 10.5 hours ahead of my sleep schedule.  It usually takes almost a week for me to get completely accustomed to Asia time because I am literally flipping my internal clock.  During the transition, I wake up SUPER early (3AM) and start to feel like a drunk person by 4 PM.  Needless to say, the first couple days of work are never very productive during the mid-afternoon until I get my second wind.  

Visiting Asia from the United States is always an exotic experience but I wonder whether the biggest challenges are the long overnight flights and the jet lag.  Hopefully my sleep pattern will be back to normal soon.