More fun in the Philippines?

Anyone visiting the Philippines has probably seen their marketing slogan...

...and over the past two weeks, the people of Manila showed me that, yes, it really is more fun in the Philippines. 

Every time I stepped outside the hotel, I was surrounded by a flurry of activity.  Street vendors were selling everything from bootleg DVD's to knockoff Samsung phones.  I was approached multiple times by ladyboys.  Whenever I passed a bar, someone was already waiting out front to solicit my business.  Some places even had "sexy" women out front, enticing people to go inside what I can only assume were strip clubs.  

The advertising for fun wasn't always so obvious.  A few times, I noticed locals who would simply outline their hands in the shape of a woman and nod at me with an obvious proposition.  There were also some low-key entrepreneurs who were just laying on the grass near the waterfront, next to a blanket and a sign offering massages.  I assume that I would just have to wake them up if I wanted their services.  

To be honest, you only need to walk around the streets for five minutes to confirm that people in the Philippines know how to have fun without any pretentiousness.  

My hotel has a casino that was full almost every night of the week.  For those who can't afford the high stakes, I noticed people placing bets on the side of the road and watching the results on an old TV screen: 

Gambling doesn't get much easier than this

During my first weekend in Manila, I attempted to visit Intramuros (the historic walled part of the city dating back to the 1800's, when Spain colonized the country).  However, before I could reach there, I was enticed by the Shell Eco-Marathon.  This event existed primarily as the showcase for a global student competition to build energy efficient cars, but they also had huge tents set up with games and interactive exhibits. 

One of the energy efficient cars "speeds" past

I didn't wait in line to drive one of the cars, but I did join a fun game that basically involved running in a giant hamster ball.  I expected to win my heat but it turns out that marathon experience does nothing to improve hamster ball performance!  

Hamster ball competition at Shell Eco Marathon in Manila

Once I finally had my fill of the Eco Marathon, I ventured over to Intramuros for some history.  As I walked through the gates, I was approached by several people offering to give me a tour in a "side car" (they pedal on a bike while the passengers sit in a side car like a clown at the circus).  Leave it to the Philippines to make even the mundane historical tours more zany. 

Walking past local people, I definitely heard some Spanish conversations (not Tagalog but actual Spanish).  The streets were full of kids playing - not surprising since the accommodations were minuscule.  For the first time since arriving in Manila, it was evident that the city really does have a high population density. 

Homes and shops in Intramuros area of Manila

Kids playing on the streets in Intramuros, Manila

Intramuros also has a couple historic churches on the UNESCO world heritage list although one is under repair so I couldn't go inside.  Despite the lack of "attractions", I was definitely feeling the Hispanic flair of the tiny district. 

One of the gates to enter Intermuros

Nightlife is one of the highlights in Manila, but the shopping also deserves mention.  Manila is home to some of the largest malls in the world, and I had to see what they were all about.  The first thing I noticed was the massive crowds of people (It is reported that Mall of Asia sees 200,000 visitors every day).  Also, it seemed like the majority of outlets in the malls are restaurants, which is much different than in the United States.  Another thing I found amusing was all the global brands that carry clothing with an "Asian Fit".  (How do Asian clothes fit??) 

"Asian fit" shirt at Zara in Mall of Asia

On my last night in Manila, the team took me out to the Seafood Market for quite the memorable meal.  This place is really fun because you can purchase fresh seafood from vendors and then walk it across the street for the restaurants to cook.  When I say "fresh", I mean that the fish are still swimming in tanks.  

Having some fun in between sales

Negotiating the price of dinner

I was amazed by some of the fish for sale.  From translucent prawns to some of the biggest lobsters I have ever seen in my life, it was like paradise for any seafood lover.  Perhaps the ugliest fish in the tanks is called a "stone fish" and they basically just hop around on the bottom of the tanks.  I wanted to buy one as a pet, just so I could laugh at it all day, but it unfortunately won't fit in my suitcase.  

Stone Fish at the Manila Seafood Market

Some of the biggest lobsters I have ever seen

The final purchases were made without me so that the team could negotiate a better price.  I don't usually care much about food, but I was genuinely excited to see what would come out of the kitchen. We rented a private room with a karaoke system, which provided yet another layer of entertainment while we waited for the seafood to be prepared.  Asian people take their karaoke seriously and Filipinos are no exception.  If their day jobs don't work out, I know about 8 people who would make great lounge singers!   

All in all, it was such a fun night.  I really appreciated the team coming out to celebrate the end of the project and it was nice to just relax and have fun without even thinking or talking about work.  

The group at dinner

Leaving Manila, I already can't wait for a return visit.  If anyone is considering a trip to Asia, I would recommend the Philippines without hesitation...but only for those who like to have more fun.   

Filipino food

Whenever people I know return from a trip, one of the first things they always talk about is the food.  Famous restaurants, quality of the hotel breakfast, unique street vendors, and local specialties all contribute to the memories of time spent in a new place.  

People around the world also get excited about sharing their regional specialties when they have guests visiting from out of town.  As a globe trotter who always interacts with locals, I have had countless experiences where I have been forced to try new foods.  

This can be awkward in some places since I am such a picky eater and I hate to offend anyone.  In the Philippines, however, it is an amazing adventure. 

The team really tested my comfort zone from the beginning, when they introduced me to balut.  This local delicacy is so (in)famous that even CNN did an article about it.  Balut is a fertilized duck egg that is hard-boiled and served in the evening.  I was told that it is also an aphrodisiac, although that fact does nothing to help me since I am always alone at night!

I requested that someone else join me in this culinary pursuit and I ended up with a small audience to enjoy my reaction!  Here's what happened...

Step #1: Crack the shell and suck out some of the embryonic fluid. (I'm already regretting this).  

Step #2: Remove more of the shell and add some salt.  

Afraid of what is under this shell!

Step #3: Close your eyes and take a bite. Wait, close my eyes?  I couldn't help but dissect the egg. Big mistake! 

This is frightening! 

The Director of Finance saw the fear on my face, so she said: "Just close your eyes and don't think about it."  ...and that's exactly what I did.  What did it taste like?  Hard boiled egg yolk.  

The next day at lunch, the waiter suggested I try "halo-halo" as a local dessert.  I thought to myself: "Hey, it's dessert...how bad can it be?"  Two minutes later, he arrived with the most colorful cup of stuff I have ever seen.  I didn't take a picture, but I found one on the Internet:

The rainbow of all desserts is right here in the Philippines...

The best way to eat this hodge-podge of a dessert is to stir everything together.  What's in it?  Crushed ice, different colored jellies, evaporated milk, purple Ube (yam flavored) ice-cream, dried fruits, a variety of beans, and other things I couldn't even recognize.  The occasional bite of chickpea was a bit strange but the overall mix of flavors and textures was really enjoyable. 

That night, I went to dinner at a restaurant called Mesa in the Makati area of the city.  Mesa serves lots of local fare, so I left the decisions up to the locals (they even ordered in tagalog so I had no clue what was about to come out).  Before I knew it, the table was filled with enough food to feed a family of six.  

The fusion of foods was quite impressive.  Glutinous rice with coconut milk wrapped in a banana leaf, giant squid stuffed with beef and deep-fried, tofu topped with century egg and baby prawns, and chicken adobo were just some of the items on the table.  My personal favorite, however, was called "pritchon".  It is a roasted pig that is sliced table-side and wrapped in crepes.  It reminded me very much of peking duck but with pork instead.  Of course I had to be a tourist and take a picture of the pre-sliced pig.

Here's a picture of the poor little piggy. 

Here's what the table looked like (the pritchon was in the center)

The final local dish that's worthy of mentioning in this blog post is a breakfast item called "taho", which my office-mate shared with me one morning.  As per usual, the initial sight was a little off-putting because it is basically just a cup of dark brown liquid with floating tapioca balls and another unidentified white substance. 

here's what taho looks like

She described it as a "soy-based drink", which made me expect something really salty (thinking the dark liquid was soy sauce).  Instead, it's actually quite sweet because the liquid is a brown sugar syrup and the white stuff is actually the soy she mentioned (silken tofu).  I'm sure there are lots of calories hidden in this mysterious drink but I bet it is also a really good source of protein to start the day.  

Overall, I think the food here is really exciting and it reflects the dynamic history of the country.  Throughout my stay, I have experienced a nice fusion of food, from Chinese to Spanish.  I may not always be the most eager person to try unusual foods when I travel but I am glad that I stretched outside my comfort zone and experienced so many interesting things.  Now, just like so many of my "foodie" friends, I will always associate my trip to Manila with amazing culinary delights. 

First impressions of Manila

After my first day in Philippines, I am completely fascinated by the culture here.  The environment reflects a unique mix of American, Asian, and Spanish influences. 

Even as I arrived in Manila, I had a feeling it would be a fun trip.  I don't usually take pictures from the plane window, but the views were too impressive to ignore. 

Scenic arrival into Manila

Passport control was a breeze and the agent didn't even ask me a single question about my visit.  Perhaps I can thank the strong bi-lateral relationship between the Philippines and the United States for my efficient arrival?  Regardless of the reason, I love a country that will let me in without asking any questions. 

My driver conversed with me throughout the entire trip to the hotel, which was a welcome change after the formal nature of my airport transfers in India.  It's always nice to hear the "real deal" about a city from a local who is unafraid to share both good and bad aspects of a city. 

Looking out the window of the car, I noticed a fleet of overly-decorated Jeepneys filling the streets.  I learned that the vehicles originated from left-over US jeeps during World War II and now serve as public transportation throughout the city.  Passengers sit facing each other in the back and bang on the ceiling whenever they want the vehicle to stop. 

Jeepneys filling the streets of Manila

I was immediately reminded of my trip to Thailand in 2010, where they have a similar shared ride system on the back of pick-up trucks: 

Testing the public transportation in Thailand (2010)

Arrival at the hotel was seamless, as the club manager met me at the front door and ushered me right up to my room.  The views from my room on the 33rd floor were impressive and I was amazed by the vast city that surrounded me.  Before arriving, I read that Manila is one of the most densely-populated city in the world but I have not gotten that impression at all in the areas around my hotel and the waterfront.  (Maybe I have spent too much time in India, but Manila just feels like any other city to me).  

City view from my hotel window

I went for a run along the waterfront, which was nice for fresh air but also not so nice for fresh air (aka: it smelled like a sewage).  On the bright side, I saw lots of people offering massages, which reminded me of all the inexpensive day spas in this part of the world.  Of course I got a massage immediately after my shower (but not on the boardwalk...I do have some standards).  I literally have zero excuses for feeling stressed during the next two weeks with so many cheap massages at my fingertips.  

Listening to the locals speak to each other makes me feel like a beginner Spanish student here because Tagalog has borrowed so many words from Spanish.  Words like 'stop', 'closed', 'but', 'meat', 'window', 'table', 'seat' and countless others others sound exactly the same between the two languages.  Would it be an exaggeration to say that I have beginner proficiency in Tagalog?

It is almost impossible to compare Manila with any city I have visited before.  Walking in the area near my hotel feels like Thailand (complete with Ladyboys and 7-11's on every corner).  Talking to the locals in English makes me feel like I'm in the United States because everyone speaks with an American accent.  The TV shows and even the wall sockets make me feel like I am back at home.  There is also a strong Spanish influence - from the surnames to the family values and the local foods.

Is it even possible to imagine a better fusion of cultures?  I didn't think so...

Pune, India

Pune feels like the Indian equivalent of a college town in the United States that grew as a result of a well-educated workforce.  Imagine a place like Ann Arbor, Columbus, or Chapel Hill - then extrapolate the population to 6 million.   

The airport only operates two international flights (Frankfurt and Dubai), so it has a very local feel.  Riding into the city was a breeze due to more modern infrastructure, which was a welcome change from the hour-long transfer in Bangalore.    

I read that horseback riding is popular in the countryside, but I didn't hear back from either of the tour operators that I e-mailed so I had to make my own fun on my day off.  Inspired by the spirit of an American college town, I decided to hit the gym in the morning, followed by brunch and a trip to the mall.  

Brunch was funny because the hotel had live music that sounded like 90's wedding singers.  I'm sure they have used the same playlist for the past decade.  While enjoying the music, I wasted almost everything that the waiters brought me to try.  T-6 days until I get a break from Indian food. 

The mall was literally a mile from the hotel so I decided to flag down an auto-rickshaw rather than renting a sedan with a private driver.  It must have been my lucky day because I quickly found one for hire and the driver didn't even argue with me about using the meter.  India win. 

I don't normally have very high expectations of shopping in India - a country that considers Van Heusen to be high fashion.  The workers love to follow me around awkwardly while I browse and they try to be helpful by showing me clothes that are hideously ugly.  Shockingly, Phoenix Mall has a much better selection of Western stores (Benetton, Zara, Celio - to name a few) and I even ended up buying a few things.  

The week of work was really busy and I didn't even have time to step outside once.  From what I was told, I didn't miss anything.   I have no plans to rush back to Pune and I would never recommend it to anyone wishing to get a taste of Indian culture.  That said, it is a really comfortable place for a Western person to travel for business.  It is clear that the city is making great efforts to position itself for future growth through foreign investments.  I bet I won't even recognize anything if I come back in ten years.       

Bangalore, India

I spent the past week in Bangalore - a city known as the IT hub of India.  People here also boast about the weather, which is considered to be the best in India.  At this time of year, I have to agree with them.  80's and sunny every day?  This is basically the best winter ever.  

We arrived in Bangalore at midday last Saturday and, of course, the staff was waiting in the hotel lobby to welcome us (they were actually working that day).  These Indian people need to adopt a 5-day work week!

My room had a sweet view of the colorful city: 

view from my room

During lunch, our local contact offered to take us to the market for some shopping.  Sometimes, I wonder if people feel obligated to take us out or if they actually want to spend time with us.  I actually feel guilty for taking more of their time when they are already working such long hours, but I certainly appreciate the sentiment. 

I'm not a huge shopper, but it was still nice to get out of the hotel and experience the mayhem of the shopping district.  Even the busiest shopping days in the United States don't have this many people browsing through the shops, but it's just a regular day in India! 

Just like everywhere else in India, people were everywhere.  

Fresh lime soda...one of many street vendors. 

After so much time around other people, I decided to make Sunday a spa and gym day.  This hotel gym was literally a greenhouse and the sun was blazing, so I decided to go shirtless for my treadmill run.  Apparently this look created quite a stir for the people eating at the adjacent restaurant because I got multiple curious stares. 

The week in Bangalore felt like a blur.  Daily tea at 10am and 4pm, drawn-out lunches, and lots of work.  I never found time to explore the city (although I heard there isn't really much to see anyhow).  The only thing I learned is that the local language actually uses a completely different script than Hindi and people from other parts of India can't even read the signs.  I wonder if they would understand this: 

A recognizable symbol in any language

Friday was Chinese New Year, so we went out for dim sum at a nearby restaurant that was surprisingly authentic and delicious.  My colleague was so excited for dim sum since she is from Hong Kong and had to be missing the holiday her family.  I can definitely associate, after spending 4th of July alone in Tanzania.  

We then went out by the pool and she asked to sketch me.  I was flattered and excited to relax with my kindle while she took the time to create art.  I was quite impressed with the final result: 

This is what I look like when I am reading

here's the real me

After spending almost a month training my new colleague, I will really miss working with her.  We provided comic relief to each other throughout the day and kept up the conversation with the local contacts whenever there was an awkward lull.  She really made this trip to India a lot more fun than I was anticipating.  Now, it's back to solo travel as I move on to my next India destination.