Hiking in the Blue Mountains

The demographics of Australia are really interesting to me.  The country is one of the most urbanized in the world (89% of the population lives in cities), but it also has the third lowest population density in the world (7.4 people per square mile).  With so much uninhabited land, it only makes sense that tourists visit the beautiful countryside. 

I learned that it is possible to hike in the Blue Mountains without even renting a car, so I woke up early and boarded a train at Central station for the 2 hour trip.  

Boarding the train to Katoomba at Central Station

I was really impressed by the trains in Sydney.  They were clean, people were quiet, and the seats can be re-configured if passengers want to face the row behind them (good for groups of 4 that want to have a conversation with each other).  

The only down-side is that it seemed to stop in each town, which lengthened the journey quite a bit.  At least I got to snicker at some of the town names, which included: Blacktown, Emu Plains, Warrimoo, and Bullaburra. 

My stop was Katoomba, which serves as the gateway to the most famous sites in the Blue Mountains.  As soon as I stepped out of the station, I was greeted by a "hop-on, hop-off" bus service (of course I didn't have any interest in that).  The walk towards the mountain ridge is only about 15 minutes and if people can't handle that, they probably shouldn't be visiting the mountains in the first place!  

To say that Katoomba is a small town would be an understatement. The main commercial street was comprised mostly of family-owned restaurants, antique shops, and sporting apparel stores. I was sad to see Aldi and Woolworth's, which serve as a reminder that global chains have invaded even the smallest towns. 

That's right - just one school for all students in Katoomba

I decided to get the touristy stuff over with first, so I walked over to the visitor center for a view of the "Three Sisters". This is a rock formation that was made famous by Aboriginal legend which describes three women who turned to stone after a tribal battle.  To be honest, I didn't see anything that resembled sisters, but maybe I just take things too literally.  After all, I do come from a country that carves faces into a mountain for tourism purposes. 

View of the 3 Sisters from the visitor observation deck

I think the most entertaining part of the Visitor's Center was watching all the Asian tourists, who just snapped a quick photo of the 3 Sisters, before returning quickly to their tour bus.  I don't think they even took the time to enjoy a panoramic view of the mountain ridge!

As my final obligation to touristy activities, I trekked down a path that actually allows people to step onto one of the "sisters".  I dutifully followed the slow queue of people just so I could take a few photos and enjoy the view.  

I was unimpressed by the crowds

Despite a sign that warned "very steep - strong walkers only", there were quite a few "weak" walkers that held up the entire process. On the bright side, the view was well worth the wait. 

View of the mountain ridge from the 3 Sisters

At this point, I was ready for a more solitary adventure, so I continued along the mountain ridge to discover the road less traveled.  It was so peaceful to walk through the trees, hearing only the sounds of running water and the calm wind. 

Path along the less-touristic area of the Blue Mountains

Every so often, I would approach a clearing where I could enjoy the gorgeous views.  It felt like there was no one for miles, even though I knew that hundreds of people were nearby, taking mindless photos from the visitor center.   

With no one around, I was forced to take a selfie...

Once the sun began to set, I started thinking about all the deadly animals in Australia and decided that it was time to head back to the road.  Without realizing it, I had hiked all the way over to the next village.  I hailed the next taxi and boarded my train back to the hotel.   

All in all, it was a wonderful day outside the city.  With such easy access from Sydney, it makes sense that the Blue Mountains would be swarming with tourists.  But, all I had to do was venture away from the biggest attraction to enjoy some peaceful solitude.  

Guide to being a tourist in Sydney

Of all the international places I have visited in my life, none feel more like home than Australia.  The accents are different and they drive on the left side of the road, but the people and the overall personality of Sydney is quite similar to the American lifestyle. 

Sydney is not filled with an overwhelming number of historic sites and must-see tourist attractions, which actually made my trip seem more relaxed.  I was able to enjoy the city like a local without feeling obligated to take pictures around every corner. 

The one tourist attraction that is absolutely worth visiting is the iconic Opera House. The Opera house sits at the tip of Bennelong Point and is, in my opinion, the only building that provides an identity to Sydney. There is a long list of performances each week, but none particularly appealed to me so I opted for a guided tour instead. The tour was really interesting and provided a lot of great facts.  Being a numbers guy, I was particularly impressed with the information that the roof contains over 1 million pieces of tile and that there are actually 1,000 rooms in the building (mostly underground).  

I was lucky enough to get a direct view of the Opera House whenever I looked out the window of my hotel, which continued to 'wow' me throughout my two week trip.  

View of the Opera House at dusk

The weather during the autumn season in Sydney is really nice, and I was lucky to get some beach weather for Good Friday. I boarded a ferry at Circular Quay and enjoyed the quick, 30-minute trip to the Northern coast.  Even though Manly can also be reached by car, the ferry is perhaps the best way to ease one's mind into relaxation mode (not to mention incredible views).  

View of Sydney from the ferry to Manly

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Coastline near Manly Wharf

From the Ferry terminal to the beach, you walk through a pedestrian-only street lined with souvenir shops, fish & chip takeaway restaurants, and a surprisingly large number of pharmacies. Despite being so close to the city, I felt like I was in a completely different world. 

Pedestrian street between Manly Wharf and the beach

Manly Beach on Good Friday, 2014

In my opinion, a major city with such easy access to resort-style beach environments is a rare treasure.  I was lucky enough to live in one of these cities (Barcelona) and I hope to one day return to a place where I can enjoy the amenities of both a big city and also a relaxing vacation atmosphere.  (I know Chicago has beaches but it certainly does not feel like vacation when cars are whizzing by on Lake Shore Drive and the cold weather makes them virtually inaccessible for 8 months per year). 

Anyhow, I digress. Back to Manly beach...

So I was walking down the boardwalk and I noticed a crowd starting to form up ahead.  I asked someone what was happening and was told that the the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge were planning to visit. I decided to wait and it turned out to be an excellent decision because I ended up with almost a front row seat.  

Kate is even more stunning in person and she definitely took the spotlight.  Both she and Will watched a lifesaving demonstration and spoke with young lifeguards who seemed completely relaxed about the entire experience.  Only two days had passed since my run-in with Hollywood celebrities, so I was feeling pretty good about my celebrity magnet in Australia! 

Kate runs across the beach in high heel shoes

Prince william meets some lifeguards before a demonstration

My favorite area of Sydney is The Rocks, which is the most historic area of the city.  Many of the buildings have retained their original facades and it was fun to imagine what life must have been like before Sydney became a sprawling urban hub.  These days, The Rocks is home to many restaurants, bars, and specialty shops.  

The old Police Station in The Rocks

Al Fresco dining in The Rocks

The Sailors' Home was adjacent to the Harbour

Sydney also offers a lot of shopping options but none of them are a haven for bargain hunters.  There is a large mall in the center of the city for anyone who likes chain stores, but I spent my time at the local designer boutiques in Paddington.  Sure, the prices are higher, but the quality of construction and unique designs completely justify the cost.  Paddington also hosts a weekly market and everyone was incredibly friendly (especially once they heard my American accent).  

Weekend market in Paddington

Boutique shopping in Paddington

One tourist attraction that I think can easily be avoided is the Harbour Bridge Climb, which charges upwards of $350 for the opportunity to wear a hilarious jumpsuit and climb over the bridge on a narrow catwalk.  Throughout the day, I saw groups of people climbing up the steps like lines of ants and it did not look fun to me at all.  Instead, I climbed one of the four Pylons for a similar view of the harbor.  This option allows everyone to wear their own clothes and carry cameras with them.

Looking up at the bridge from the walking path along

View of Circular Quay and Sydney CBD from the Harbour Bridge

One morning at breakfast, I overheard some New Yorkers exclaiming how they found Sydney to be boring.  They all agreed that it is possible to see everything in a single day and I just rolled my eyes because I feel like they completely missed the subtle appeal of the city.  In my opinion, the key to enjoying Sydney is to open your eyes and discover the hidden gems that are not listed in the guide books.  Talk to people at the street markets, enjoy the views from the ferry, and wake up early to run through Hyde park.

Sydney is consistently rated among the best in the world for quality of life and I could not agree more.  Although I only spent two weeks in the city, it was such a pleasure to live like a local. 

ANZAC Day

ANZAC Day, held each year on April 25th, is the Australian equivalent of both Memorial Day and Veteran's Day.  Patriotic traditions are held across Australia and New Zealand to remember those who have fought in the wars.  Although I do not have any personal connections that have fought for Australia, I still find it interesting to see how other countries honor those who have served in the military. 

The day starts with a dawn service at 4AM, which is more of a somber event that quietly commemorates the soldiers who died in the wars.  I did not wake up for this, but the news channels showed huge crowds at the ANZAC memorial in Sydney.  The images reminded me of the Memorial Day services from my own hometown (and many others) across the United States.  

I walked downtown to watch the parade, which started at a much more reasonable hour of 9AM.  It was raining pretty heavily, but that didn't stop people from lining the streets with their umbrellas.  Unfortunately, anyone marching didn't have the luxury of staying dry.  

Braving the rain to celebrate Australia's veterans on ANZAC Day

Patriotic spirits run high

The parade was much different than anything I have seen in the United States.  Veterans marched with their military battalions - each displaying a banner that listed the military division and service locations. Many of the divisions are dwindling in size as the veterans continue to age (and pass away), but it was clear that participation brings a great sense of pride. Some walked slowly with canes, while others were confined to wheelchairs. I even noticed younger people marching with photos of servicemen who are now deceased. 

The 7th Division of the Australian Air Force passes along the route 

Mobility is an issue for some of the older veterans

I was really impressed by the high level of mutual support - both on the side of the crowd and also from those marching in the seemingly endless parade of veterans.  Almost everyone watching the parade was wearing a sprig of rosemary, which serves as a symbol of remembrance.  Meanwhile, the veterans proudly display rows of medals from their days in the military.   

Marchers express their gratitude for the support along the parade route

After the parade is over, most veterans spend the afternoon drinking with old friends and reminiscing with stories from their days in the service (which probably get repeated year after year). The non-veterans also drink...because it's a fun thing to do on a public holiday.  Everyone comes together to play a traditional gambling game called "two-up", which was popular among soldiers during World War I.  Simply speaking, people bet on whether the coins will land on heads or tails. 

I couldn't help but smile as I experienced the inter-generational camaraderie throughout the city. Elderly service men and women are the heros in Australia - at least on this one day - and they happily accept gratitude from people around my age who have never lived through a major global conflict. 

In true Australian style, ANZAC Day started with a somber salute to those who have died in the wars, but it ended with celebration of all who served. 

Easter in Sydney

Easter is an uplifting holiday for Christians around the world. In addition to the obvious religious celebrations, much of the Northern Hemisphere is enjoying the transition to warmer weather, while Australians appreciate the final warm days before winter sets in. Another bonus in Australia is the 4-day long weekend that includes Good Friday and Easter Monday. 

I was relieved to see that the tradition of eating plenty of chocolate is also strong in Australia.  My favorite treat, Cadbury Mini Eggs, were in abundance.  The local team also treated me to a chocolate Bilby, which is an interesting alternative to the Easter Bunny:

Is an Easter Bilby better than an Easter Bunny?

It is never easy to spend holidays alone while my family enjoys time together, but this is just one of the sacrifices I have to make for an otherwise exciting job. I just remind myself that there are much worse places to spend my holiday than this place:

My hotel (and the Harbour Bridge) on Easter Morning

In grand tradition of having friends scattered around the world, I was excited to discover that one of my friends from London School of Economics is now living in a Sydney suburb with her husband and step-daughter.  They graciously offered to spend the holiday with me in the city. 

We went to lunch at Phillips Foote in The Rocks, which is an Aussie-style restaurant serving meat that people grill themselves in the outdoor patio.  The atmosphere is relaxed and it was funny to think that this is the most cooking I have done in the past several months. 

We had a good time reminiscing about the year that Alice and I lived on the same floor of our residence hall in London...twelve years ago (wow, we're old).  

After lunch, we walked around the Quay and I was amazed to see all the people out and about in the city.  There were street performers along the Quay and large crowds waiting for the ferries. One of my favorite street performers (I noticed her several times) is a contortionist who calls herself "Bendy Em" and she always seems to be in the most compromising positions when I pass...

Street performance: "Bendy Em"

Em squeezes into a box

We enjoyed some perfect afternoon weather at Opera Bar, which is actually tucked partially underneath the Sydney Opera House. The bar has lots of outdoor seating along the water and million dollar views that I could get used to very quickly. 

London School of Economics reunion in Sydney

Alice, Nev, and Holly

Before calling it a day, we decided to make one final stop at Lowenbrau in The Rocks for some German beer.  The restaurant feels a lot like EPCOT center, due to the stereotypical decor and true German waitstaff.  This points to one of my favorite aspects of Australia: the ease of obtaining work visas. In my short time here, I have encountered so many people on working holiday visas that not only enhance the local economy but also add to the internationalism of the city.  

Australia is in such a geographically isolated location that I think it's great to have programs in place to bring talented workers into the country.  Alice and her husband (both British) are prime examples of this and they attested that it is quite easy to obtain work visas and build a life in Australia.  I don't think I'm quite ready to make a move to Sydney, but I do appreciate the international element of a country that is otherwise very similar to the United States. 

As the sun set over the Opera House and Harbour Bridge, I was again reminded of how fortunate I am to visit all corners of the world for my job.  I may not have been able to enjoy Easter with family, but I reunited with a friend that I haven't seen in over a decade and managed to eat a chocolate Bilby.  It was a good day. 

View of Sydney Harbour Bridge on Easter 2014

Easter Sunset over Sydney Opera House

Working out with Cameron Diaz and Kate Upton

It started just like any other day. 

My alarm went off, I snoozed twice, and then I finally dragged myself out of bed to hit the gym. 

As is the case with most hotel fitness rooms, this one was pretty small.  I started on the rowing machine to get my heart rate up and, a few minutes later, a woman came in and started running on the treadmill that was just to the right of my machine.  

I wouldn't have paid attention to her except that she kept stepping on the plastic part at the front of the belt.  I looked up at her face and she was completely oblivious.  She was beautiful, though, so I gave her a pass.

When I transitioned to the treadmill, the beautiful woman started rowing and was equally as uninspired.  A few minutes later, an attractive, middle-aged blonde came in and greeted her before stepping on the treadmill next to me.  This woman was much more focused and surprisingly athletic.

I looked down at the TV screen on my treadmill and the Daylight show was airing an interview with the stars of The Other Woman.  At that moment, my heart skipped a beat.

I looked over at the rowing machine and thought to myself: “Am I looking at Kate Upton right now?”.  Then I looked at the treadmill next to me and realized that I was definitely running next to Cameron Diaz.

Cameron must have noticed me staring at her because she looked over at me and said: “Yes, that’s us on TV”. 

I started laughing and said that it must be fun to watch herself on TV.  She responded: “Definitely…I never really get used to it.”

With a giant smile on my face, I returned my focus on the treadmill and tried not to appear completely star-struck.  Cameron went back to her sprinting and I listened to the rest of the interview while I ran. At one point, the caption on the bottom of the screen read: “Hollywood mega-stars are in Australia”.  I smugly thought to myself: “...and they’re standing right next to me.”

Although we only exchanged a few short sentences and a smile, the experience was one that I will always associate with my trip to Sydney.

This is where my week went from regular to amazing

Australian Running Festival

It had been over four months since my last race, so I scoured the half-marathon listings as soon as I heard that I would be coming to Australia.  The first one I could find was in Canberra, the day after flying overnight (13 hours) from Delhi to Sydney. 

Debating...Debating...  (this lasted about five seconds). 

I'll find a way to survive. Thirteen miles never killed anyone, right? 

Registered!  

First task was to find transportation from Sydney to Canberra. There are are several coach services that do the 3.5-hour journey without any stops. I decided to book with Greyhound and crossed my fingers that it's not as ghetto as the American counterpart. 

Next task was to book a hotel. This ended up being harder than I anticipated since the city is so small. Also, it probably helps to book a room more than 3 days in advance of a major athletic event. I couldn't find any decent hotels for less than $500, so I decided to try Airbnb for the first time.  One place was located in the city center and seemed nice enough. Done. 

I'm always amazed at how simple it is to book weekend adventures these days!

-- -- -- -- -- --

The reality of travel is never as fun as the planning stages.  My flights (especially the overnight one) seemed to last forever. Apparently Sydney is far...from everywhere.  My seat neighbor faced me as she slept, which was uncomfortable.  I do not want to get so intimate with someone I have never even spoken to before.   

It is required for Americans to pre-arrange a travel visa online, which makes for a seamless arrival. Although, I was amazed by the baggage screening process to ensure that no one is bringing food items or any other prohibited goods into the country. All the Indian passengers were required to get a thorough scanning, but I just needed my bags to be sniffed by a dog for 5 seconds. 

I dropped the bulk of my luggage at my hotel in Sydney and walked around the city for a few hours before hopping on the bus to Canberra. Australians are really attractive. Maybe I'm just sleep deprived.  

The bus ride was so much better than I expected. Power outlets, WiFi, and extra legroom makes it basically the opposite of Greyhound in America.  Highly recommended. 

My first impression of Canberra is that it is beautiful and new. I am still amazed that it is the capital of a country, though. It would be like America deciding that Madison, Wisconsin would become the nation's new capital. The downtown restaurants were filled with people at 6:30pm and the city was asleep shortly after.  (That was fine with me, considering that I hadn't slept in 36 hours). By the way, Australia has Target stores...maybe I am in Wisconsin!

Shortly after dinner, I arrived at the Airbnb address and it felt a little bizarre going into a stranger's home. The host was super nice and she helped me with directions to the race start, but I think I prefer the anonymity of staying at a hotel.  Aside from that, the accommodations were really comfortable and I enjoyed being able to learn about the city from someone who has lived there for so long.  

Beautiful morning for a race!

On race morning, I arrived at the starting line with just enough time to pick up my number, spend some time in the portable toilets (to dispose of the last remnants of Indian food), and mentally prepare for my first long run in 4 months.  My ankle was giving me grief as usual, but I otherwise felt surprisingly fresh.  

Starting line announcements in English are highly appreciated; especially after running the majority of my races last year in foreign countries. Compared to the overcrowded start corrals in Florence last November, Canberra felt like a luxurious experience.  I just looked up at the sky and smiled, knowing that I will be able to spend the next two months in a country that reminds me so much of home. 

The weather was perfect for running - not too hot and just a light breeze.  The first couple kilometers had some hills, as we circled the Parliament House and other administrative offices.  The overall design of the buildings is very understated and Parliament House was actually built into a hill.  (Random fact: The top part of the hill was removed during the building's construction, then replaced on top of the building, itself).  I find it amusing that the political decisions in Australia are all made in a building that literally sits in the middle of a hill.   

I was nervous about my stomach issues since I am perpetually sick in India, but my system seemed to be very resilient upon my return to a first-world country!  I felt good throughout the race and tried to push my speed gradually throughout the run.  I yo-yo'd back and forth with a few people throughout much of the second half.  This part of the race was on the north bank of the river and was not as scenic as the first half. At least the perfect weather and competitive drive kept my interest. 

The last couple kilometer signs were missing, so the end of the race crept up on me (in a good way).  I saw the 85-minute pace group up ahead as I was crossing the bridge to the south bank and knew that I would not be able to catch them. I pushed myself as fast as possible through the final stretch but my legs just can't dominate the distance as well anymore and were feeling fatigued. My final time of 1:27 is far from my best, but still a respectable finish in the top 3% of all runners. 

Finish line of the 2014 Canberra Marathon

Canberra Marathon Finisher Certificate

I would like to say that strong training efforts during the next couple months can allow me to log a better result in another Australian race, but it's hard to say at this point.  My ankle is becoming increasingly intolerant of the constant running and I'm not able to push myself so much during regular weekly running sessions.  

While I always enjoy the race environment, the thrill is diminished when I don't look forward to the final result.  I will probably still sign up for races, but I will have to just refocus my attention towards general fitness (rather than competitiveness) until I have surgery to repair whatever is plaguing my right ankle. 

Bravo to the race organizers, thanks to the volunteers, and congratulations to the runners who pushed me through the entire race. I found the city of Canberra to be very charming and I look forward to returning later in my Australian tour.  

Gurgaon, India

Do you want to see what the most boring place in the world looks like? 

The view from my hotel in Gurgaon

With views like this, there is no reason to ever go outside.