Flying in India

I'm generally quite tolerant when I travel, but airports in India always test my patience. Here's a typical series of events that travelers can expect before they manage to get up in the air:

1)  Arrive at the airport and decline multiple offers from people who wish to put your luggage on a cart and wheel it into the terminal. (Thanks, but I'm capable of wheeling my own suitcase). 

2) Push through the families that are bidding farewell to their loved ones. (In the smaller cities, this can be quite a crowd...)

3) Show your flight itinerary to the security guards so that you can pass through the doors.  (Showing the itinerary on a phone/computer screen may or may not be acceptable. I learned the hard way in Pune.)

4) Walk though the waiting area and show your itinerary to (yet another) security guard. 

5) Pass your luggage through a large scanner and ensure that they seal the zippers with a plastic strap. (Don't forget this step or the check-in counter will turn you away...another thing I learned the hard way).

6) Wait in line for the agent to start the check-in process (no self check-in). Since the luggage allowance is only 15 kilograms, you will probably need to pay an excess baggage fee. The check-in agent will weigh your luggage, write the fee on a piece of paper, and send you to the oversize luggage office.  (Don't try going to the oversize luggage office first...that process would be too efficient).

7)  Pay the excess luggage fee and refrain from laughing when they print the receipt on a dot-matrix printer.

8) Return to the check-in desk (try to find the same person who started the check-in process, which may be difficult since they are always moving around). Wait awkwardly while he/she finishes with the person they are currently helping, then file in afterwards to finally pick up your boarding pass and a carry-on luggage tag.

9)  If flying internationally, fill in a departure card and pass through customs.

10) Next step: Security. Get into your gender-specific line for security screening, put your bag on the belt, and walk through the metal detector (don't forget to keep your boarding pass in your hand). The metal detector setting will be so sensitive that even a button will cause it to beep. Not to worry because there's always someone stationed ahead with a handheld metal detector wand. Once you are "wanded", he will stamp your boarding pass as evidence that you are clear.

11) Attempt to pick up your bag from the belt. Chances are, they will need to scan it again (especially if they notice you are a non-Indian). Once, I was asked to remove all electronic devices and place them in a separate bin. Kindle, electric razor, ipod, phone, camera, etc etc. That was fun.

12) Once your bag is finally cleared, someone will stamp the luggage tag that you picked up at the check-in desk. (If you forgot to get a luggage tag at the check-in desk, go back to step 8 and repeat).

13) When it's time to board the flight, push (and be pushed) in the line. People will most definitely try to board before their assigned group and blatantly cut into the line. An agent will scan your boarding pass and check your passport. A separate person will check the tags on your bags to make sure they were stamped (they will probably check your boarding pass again, too). If you're lucky, you will be selected for additional luggage screening.

14) At the end of the jet bridge, you will have your boarding pass and passport checked yet again before stepping onto the plane. (Just in case the previous 3 checkpoints missed anything!) 

15) Sit down and read the airline magazine so you don't have to talk to anyone. You may find some interesting renditions of the United States map on this side of the world:

Since when is Boston south of Philadelphia and Hartford?

Emergency cards on IndiGo airlines are also amusing:
 

IndiGo has some impressive emergency exit cards

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If you are connecting in Mumbai or Delhi, the fun is just beginning...

Earlier this year, I flew from Amritsar to Ahmedabad, with a connection in Delhi. My first flight was delayed, but I arrived with 50 minutes to make the connection. Plenty of time in a normal airport. However, when we arrived in Delhi, a gate agent was commissioned to run us through the airport terminal. We first stopped at a ticket desk to pick up our connecting flight boarding passes (for whatever reason, I couldn't get both boarding passes when I initially checked in). The escort then proceeded to take us outside the secure area. We had to re-tag our carry-on bags, pass through security again, and literally sprint to the gate with only about 2 minutes to spare before the doors closed. I still don't understand why we couldn't just remain in the secure area and walk calmly to our connecting gate like everywhere else in the world?

Mumbai domestic-to-international connections are even worse because they involve two completely separate airports. When I traveled from Pune to Manila via Mumbai, I had to collect my luggage in the domestic airport, wait for a bus that comes every 30 minutes, and run my bag through another scanner just to get on the bus. Once I arrived at the international airport, I had to wait in the lobby for an hour because they don't allow check-in until 3 hours prior to the flight time (it was a long connection). I never thought I would be so eager to get inside an airport in India. 

There was also one occasion when I thought I would never leave the airport. When I flew to Amritsar via Delhi, my already-too-long 5 hour connection became a TWELVE hour nightmare.  The security guards told me that if I left the airport, they would have to cancel my ticket. So, I laid on the ground like a homeless person and closed my eyes while the non-stop announcements kept me awake.

Worst flight delay in history...2nd flight on the screen was mine.

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When I arrived in Mumbai from Perth, I was amazed to see that a completely new airport had just opened. Never in India have I seen a building in such pristine condition. The architecture was stunning, and I was almost completely alone (another rarity in India).

Departure hall at the new Mumbai airport

Even the shops are still under construction

Departure lounge in the new airport

I was so busy marveling at my surroundings that I barely noticed not having to fill out a departure card...or only having to show my itinerary once when I entered the building. It may not be much, but the gradual improvements in efficiency reflect a country that is constantly changing. Now, travelers flying in and out of Mumbai can experience a world-class facility. 

The airport experience in India may be frustrating and inefficient, but these cultural differences are just some of the many elements that make India such a unique place to visit. A seamless travel experience simply wouldn't fit with the rest of the country. 

Once you finally manage to get up in the air, the views will be just as spectacular as anywhere else in the world...Perhaps even more spectacular, considering all the steps that it took to reach that point. 
   

Watching the sun rise as I approach Mumbai

Monsoon Season in India

Back to India. This time during monsoon season.  

(As if I don't already have enough reasons to stay in my hotel...)

I was surprised to actually see the sun when my plane landed in Mumbai. The humidity hit me like a brick wall as soon as I stepped outside the airport, but it was nice that I did not have to battle pouring rains. 

The blue skies continued over the next few days and I noticed more conversations about the weather, although the tone included a sense of concern rather than a sense of relief. Apparently, the monsoon generally arrives on the same day each year, so the delay was causing a lot of uncertainty. 

There were articles in the newspaper which stated that the prices of food staples (potato, onion) were already increasing, based purely on the speculation of a lower-than-average monsoon. It's amazing how quickly people start to react to a few days of dry weather - especially since most meteorologists in the United States can barely forecast rain for the next day, let alone an entire season.  

And then, suddenly, the monsoon arrived.

Monsoon view from my window

Rain poured down in buckets and the view from my window became downright spooky. It's times like this that I really appreciate being inside. Driving in Mumbai is an adventure, even in perfect weather. Flooded roads add yet another dimension to the mayhem. 

The next day, I talked to some of my local colleagues about whether they get annoyed with the rain. Without exception, they all said that it is a beautiful and much-anticipated time of year. There was a sense of nostalgia, as they recalled the many times that they waded through the knee-high puddles, enjoyed an "earthy" scent in the air, and returned home completely soaked. 

As someone who despises rain, I could not associate with the things they were saying. There have been a few select occasions when I was forced to run in the rain and actually started to appreciate it (only after I was already soaking wet). However, aside from a handful of fun memories, I don't understand the beauty or the appeal of non-stop, heavy rains. 

My (American) colleague arrived at the hotel during another three-day period without rain and exclaimed how nice it was that the skies were clear. I shook my head in agreement. Then, our local consultant said something that I will never forget. His response was: "I'm glad you enjoy the nice views from your window. Meanwhile, we will have no food." 

At that moment, I started understanding why Indians genuinely appreciate the beauty of the rain. To them, it is a necessary part of the year that brings the most basic of all necessities to many people around the country. It is also a break from the oppressive heat that makes living conditions more difficult during the summer months that precede the monsoon. With so many people working outside or living in non air-conditioned homes, the heat impacts life in a negative way. 

Sometimes, I fail to realize that my perspectives of the world come from my upbringing in a first-world country. I dislike the rain because it prevents me from running outdoors or seeing blue skies in my pictures, but I never think about any potential impact on my food supply or living conditions. If the price of produce increases in my local grocery store, I usually don't even notice. My favorite foods are always available - even if they have to be imported from another country.

India is an exotic place in every sense of the word. I have always recognized the vast differences in food, clothing, cultural traditions, family dynamics, and so many other elements of life. However, it was not until this monsoon season that I realized just how much a person's upbringing can impact his or her perspective on something as simple as rain. 

The World of Television

Before I started living out of a suitcase, my daily activities always included some TV. Weekday mornings, I watched the pre-market stock ticker run across the bottom of the Bloomberg screen as I worked out at Equinox. A few evenings each week, I tuned in to my favorite prime-time shows after work. Some nights, I fell asleep with "Friends" re-runs playing in the background. For Americans, TV is just part of life. 

Everything changed when I started finding myself in a new country every other week. The channels are never the same, comedies are lost in a sea of boring global news, and the majority of offerings are in a foreign language. For a while, I used Hulu as my lifeline to American culture, but even that dried up a few months ago when Hulu blocked content to anyone using a VPN to log in internationally. In a world where "2 Broke Girls" and "Mike & Molly" are considered prime-time television, I have no option but to entertain myself in other ways.

For a couple months, I pretended to be scholarly and read a lot more e-books on my Kindle. I spent some time practicing my Spanish (which is getting very rusty these days). I also discovered plenty of creative content on Youtube. Without exaggeration, I can spend hours watching a series of clips on Youtube. It's proof that you don't need million-dollar budgets or professional scripts to entertain people. 

After a long hiatus from TV, I was happy to discover that Australians have mastered the American formula of at-home entertainment. Every morning at the gym, I enjoyed shows that were essentially copies of “Good Morning America”. Anchors would make light of the day’s news, correspondents would report with fun community stories, and a “cash cow” character would call random viewers to give away prizes each morning.  It’s such a better way to start the day than International CNN or Al Jazeera.

Even the ads reminded me of America, with only a few small variations. Progressive Insurance basically copied the American format for Australia and replaced “Flo” with an Australian counterpart called "Kitty" who even looks similar. 

Kitty, the Progressive insurance girl in Australia

American TV shows have all been exported around the world but Australia actually manages to get the current season with only a short delay. I felt truly American again, as I watched episodes of “Ellen” at lunch with my local colleagues and laughed out loud during the "Modern Family" wedding while I ate a bacon cheeseburger from room service (the first burger I have eaten in years)!

One night, I saw an advertisement for a show called "I Wanna Meet Harry", which follows a group of American girls that were sent to England to compete for dates with a Prince Harry look-alike. At first, I thought this was just a brilliant Australian series that was created to mock gullible Americans (does anyone actually think that Prince Harry would try to find love on a low-budget TV show?) As it turns out, the show was actually produced by Ryan Seacrest and was also being broadcast in the United States. Thank you, Ryan Seacrest, for further diminishing the way Americans are viewed overseas!

On the positive side, I did find one TV series that manages to distract the attention away from crazy Americans. The popular "Real Housewives" franchise on Bravo has made its way down under, with "The Real Housewives of Melbourne"!  I have always enjoyed Bravo TV for mindless laughter and this show did not disappoint.  The women are basically the same as any of the US housewives installments, only with hilarious accents. If I ever move to Australia, there is no way I will get bored by the TV. 

Real Housewives of Melbourne prove even more that Australia = America

Although my job has made TV less relevant to my daily routine, I have never truly lost the love for mindless entertainment. Whenever I turned on the TV in Australia, I knew that I could be guaranteed at least one show that I recognized from home (often far more than just one). Part of me enjoyed the constant entertainment options, but a larger part realized that I am actually more productive without the distractions.  

Would other Americans also be better off without the hundreds of channels to choose from whenever they decide to sit in front of the TV?  Based purely on my personal experiences abroad... Absolutely. 

Perth, Australia

Despite its deceptively large population, people in Perth are proud to describe the city as a "country town".  The mining boom caused a lot of growth in recent years, but the lifestyle has remained very laid-back and friendly. In my short time there, I quickly fell in love with everything that Perth offers to residents and visitors alike. 

The city center has a couple shopping arcades and a pedestrian-only area with all the major stores you would find in Sydney or Melbourne. Everything closes a little earlier, but "trading hours" are still better than in Europe (thanks to being open on Sundays). Speaking of Europe, I felt like I was back in the UK when I walked down one pedestrian street, appropriately called London Court

Without the Australian flags, it looks just like England

Actually, there were quite a few areas of the city where the buildings reminded me of England (although much newer). Just look at Government House, for example: 

Government House...with a distinct British influence

Everything about the city just makes life easy. Public buses in central Perth are free and they run at a really high frequency. When I was walking from the hotel to the race start on my first morning in the city, a bus actually stopped right next to me and the driver opened the door to ask if I wanted a ride to the starting line. I challenge anyone else to find another city of 1.5 million people where this would happen! 

I already wrote an entire blog entry about the great outdoor activities in Perth, but I also found the nightlife to be fun.  My favorite night out was spent at Gloucester Park, which is a harness horse racing track. This is not a place where you can expect the highest echelons of society, but it is a fun Friday night destination for drinks and casual gambling.

Race results at Gloucester Park

I had never seen a harness horse race, but it looked a little like a handicap version of the traditional version. Instead of riding on the horse, the jockey rides in a little cart that is pulled by the horse. The announcer even refers to the jockey as a "driver" instead of a "rider". 

The drivers are not, in fact, handicap

Race warm-ups in progress

The track is open every Friday night and races happen about once every 25 minutes, between 6 and 10pm. People place small bets in between races and spend the rest of their time chatting with friends. Overall, it was a really relaxed and casual environment. I didn't win anything, but I would much rather spend my night at the race track with live entertainment than just standing around at a bar.

The less-than modern betting area

For me, the best part of the entire night was seeing the area where horses are prepped for the races. It felt like going backstage at a show. As I walked through the stables, there was a feeling of relaxed anticipation. The only people who seemed to take it seriously were the horse owners, who mostly around in full suits and acted like big shots. 

Horses standing in the stables

 

A jockey prepares for his next race

An owner takes great care in grooming

I was surprised to hear that most of my local colleagues have never even been to Gloucester Park, but I would definitely recommend it as a tourist attraction. 

On a global scale, Perth seems to get overlooked by travelers in favor of Sydney and Melbourne. But, make no mistake - Perth is a hidden gem that is absolutely worth seeing.  In fact, I would dare to say it's among my 5 favorite cities in the world. 

Weekend Adventures in Western Australia

The vast landscape of Western Australia deserves extended periods of discovery but I was forced to squeeze as much as possible into one short weekend. I decided to visit the coastline and desert area to the north of Perth. With this also being my last full weekend in Australia, I was also determined to make my tourist activities as stereotypically Aussie as possible. 

My first stop was at Caversham Wildlife Park, to finally see some Australian animals. This place is amazing because, unlike a traditional zoo, they allow visitors to actually touch and feed some of the animals. 

The koala sanctuary was a highlight for me. Not only were they absolutely adorable, but they were also quite timid. The smallest one was the cutest and he just faced the tree while people took turns petting him. The fur felt a little like a sheep. There were also two larger koalas - one was climbing along a ledge while the other slept in another small tree - and both were equally as cute. 

A young koala sits timidly in the tree

The park also has several cages of owls, exotic birds, emu (which I stay far away from), and others that I didn't recognize from back home. I love looking at animals. 

The next interactive stop was in the kangaroo area, which housed at least 100 of the jumpy guys. I'm not sure what I expected, but they were not it. The fact that they hop around aimlessly made me a little nervous at first, but they were totally harmless. I fed them food that resembled guinea pig pellets and didn't even feel the smallest nibble on my hand.

Feeding the kangaroo (less scary than I thought)

The kangaroo were hopping around everywhere!

When my group started walking away, it was funny to see them standing up on their hind legs, silently looking for more food. We left a few food pellets on the ground as a parting gift. [Random thought: I wonder why no one keeps kangaroos as pets? Even though kangaroos are "wild", I found them to be more calm than many dogs I have encountered.]  

These guys easily finished off the remaining food

As we continued around the park, my favorite photo opportunity was with a huge wombat. I could barely look at her without laughing, to be perfectly honest.  I don't know if it was the huge body, the tiny legs, or the funny looking face, but I was definitely a fan of these animals.

Sitting with a huge wombat

Overall, Caversham gets a huge thumbs up from me. The employees really love their jobs and the animals seem to have a great habitat. Finally being able to meet some native Australian animals and to learn more about them was a huge bonus for me. 

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I was also excited to visit The Pinnacles, which are unusual limestone formations in the desert. Locals sometimes downplay this attraction, but I was enchanted by the mysterious spikes that emerge from the ground for as far as the eye can see.

Limestone formations in Nambung National Park

Enchanting views

For me, the biggest appeal is in the disputed theories to explain how these formations came to exist. Aboriginal folklore considers them to be the fingers of kidnapped children (obviously crazy talk, but a good excuse to keep their kids away)! I tend to agree more with the theory that they are fortified roots from a forest that was burned in a bush fire many centuries ago. The roots were only exposed when the sand surrounding them was later swept away. 

Trees are starting to grow around the rocks in some areas

One of the more "spiky" areas of the national park

It is probably not necessary to spend more than a couple hours in the park, but I am glad that I got to witness something completely different than anything I had seen before. 

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The coastline around Pinnacles was also really beautiful - even in the early winter season. Here, the beaches have a very fine sand and lots of beach grass to protect the land from the fierce winds that frequently blow off the Indian Ocean. It is such a contrast to the dramatic cliffs rocky coastline along the Great Ocean Road.

Beaches near Cervantes, Western Australia

Sand boarding is a popular activity in Western Australia and I had to discover what all the hype is about. Basically, it's just like warm weather snow boarding, without being strapped into the board. Indian Ocean Drive passes quite a few sand dunes, but the largest and most popular is in Lancelin. As we approached the hills, I felt like a little kid at a playground. 

Arriving at Lancelin Sane Dunes

Most people spent their time hanging out in the peaceful surroundings and only sporadically climbing the hill for a short ride. There were also some four wheelers and off-road SUV's that blazed over the sand with a lot more speed and recklessness. 

Four-wheeling on the dunes

This kid has a future in sand surfing!

I was surprised by how difficult it was to keep balanced on the sand. Just when I started building up some speed, I would inevitably hit a slow patch and face plant right into the sand. Running back up the hills was also quite a workout and it usually just ended up as more of a half-crawl as I reached the top. Let's just say I will not be vying for a sand boarding championship any time soon, despite what the confident-looking, sand-faced picture below may imply! 

Yes, I have sand all over my face!

I really enjoyed sand boarding, despite the fact that I had sand inside every crevice of my face for the rest of the evening. If I lived out here, I'm sure I would be spending quite a few weekends "surfing" in the sand dunes, grilling by the beach, and just enjoying the days pass without any concerns. 

Perth may be the most isolated major city in the world, but it is filled with activities, both in and around the city. I would have loved to explore even more of the vast wilderness that epitomizes Western Australia, but I suppose I will have to save all the other destinations for my next trip.