Monday, 31 August 2015

Danang International Marathon


From the moment I stepped out of the airport, I could tell that Da Nang would be a fun place to visit. I could hear the familiar buzz of motorbikes traveling down the busy streets. I could see the neon lights that lined so many buildings. The weather was warm and people were all starting to go out for the night. This is a great place for a vacation, but is it a great place to run a marathon?

I always think of marathons as an independent challenge, but that night, I wished I had traveled with a group of friends. When I signed up, my sole intention was to find a race that would keep me motivated to train throughout the summer. The timing was ideal, but I didn’t really think about the social element. I spent the evening wandering around the city and taking pictures of the vibrant atmosphere at night. 

Famous Dragon Bridge at night

Motorbikes buzz across the bridge

A nod to the famous Singapore Merlion


I had a really choppy night of sleep because my hotel was located next to a karaoke bar. Despite reading multiple reviews, I never saw anything about the noise. I was already getting nervous about the following night – particularly since I would already have to wake up painfully early for the 4AM start time.

Packet pick-up was located on the beach adjacent to the starting line. The “expo” was just a small line up local merchants’ booths and a DJ to keep the atmosphere lively. I knew it would be hot, but the harsh sun was beyond my expectations. Everyone huddled under large umbrellas to keep from sweating as they waited to pick up their race packs. I was surprised to meet quite a few foreigners who had traveled to Da Nang for the race. We chatted about previous racing pursuits as we waited in line. 

Hiding under umbrellas as we waited to pick up our race numbers

Packet Pickup was right on the beach

With my number in hand, I set off to explore the city again – this time in the daylight. I had lunch inside a shopping mall near the river because it seemed like the most hygienic option. Da Nang is full of tiny local restaurants with plastic tables and chairs set up in front, but I just couldn’t trust the food. Despite my concerns about food quality, I love being able to load up on carbs without any guilt on the day before a big race.

Fishing boats docked in the river


Con Ga Catholic Church in central Danang


That evening, I set everything out for the race and forced myself to get to bed early. And then I couldn’t sleep. And then the music started again. I lied in my bed, getting increasingly annoyed with myself for not being able to sleep, and calculated how much rest I would get if I fell asleep “now”. It was torturous.

I was so exhausted when my alarm jolted me out of a sound sleep, but I peeled myself out of bed and looked out the window. People were still partying in the adjacent bar, while runners were beginning to congregate at the starting line. All I wanted to do was sleep a few more hours, but I forged ahead and got myself ready for a 42-kilometer run. 

Starting Line for the Danang International Marathon
Behind the starting line, runners began gathering together. A camera crew awkwardly interviewed some people who looked like foreigners, but I was too focused to talk with anyone. A drone flew overhead and the announcer tried to pump up the crowd. I took the bait and cheered a little, in hopes of finding some energy. I can’t remember ever being this tired before a race. 

The starting gun went off. We started running down a dark and quiet street. I am notorious for starting races too quickly, but this time, I made a particular effort to keep a slow and steady pace.

After only about five miles, my iPod started acting up. I fiddled with it for a while, but I could not get the music to play normally. I had also forgotten my armband, so I was stuck holding it in my hand. I debated whether to just toss it away, but I didn’t want to deal with the expense of buying a new one. I was so frustrated to be running in silence during the one race where I was really relying on music to perk me up.

The course was a giant loop around the city, with one lap for the half-marathon and two laps for the full-marathon. Around miles 11-12, I was again alone with my thoughts. Should I just cut my losses and stop after the first lap? I could feel that my energy was already more than 50% depleted. The thought of another lap was extremely daunting, particularly with one hand occupied by a lifeless iPod, and the other one constantly reaching out for water to stay hydrated.

The sun was beginning to rise and I could already feel the temperature getting warmer. I approached the 13-mile mark and I literally could not decide what to do. I could turn left and pick up a half-marathon medal, or I could keep going straight ahead and torture myself for another two hours.

In a split-second decision, I forged ahead. I have never willingly given up on anything in the past and today would not be the start. I immediately regretted my decision but I knew that I would appreciate the accomplishment in the end.

By this point, the sun was rising and the city took on a completely different life than the first lap. The roads were not closed off for the race, so I found myself sharing the road with drivers and locals who were beginning their day.

The hardest part of the race was going across bridge with a long and stead incline. This landmark also coincided with the point where I usually hit a wall. I forced myself to at least run down the slope on the other side of the bridge, but I couldn’t get much further than that without stopping to walk. With no spectators and no landmarks, it was almost like hiding backstage.

The final few miles were all along the beach. The people and the views inspired me to start running again, but I still couldn’t make it the entire way without stopping for a few more walk breaks. I was surprised that no one was passing me, which signaled that all other runners were also hitting the wall.

People who have never run a marathon before will never understand the feeling of being completely incapable of running. Even knowing that I am on my final couple miles is not enough to get my legs moving. Pulling energy from the depths of my body is something that I both love and hate about marathons.

I finally crossed the finish line with a time of 3:29.  As always, the feeling of accomplishment at the finish line was incredible. With my hard-earned medal hanging around my neck, I stretched a bit on my own and then stopped for a post-race massage. There, I met another runner from the UK who had just completed his first marathon. At the finish line, I always love talking to other runners and sharing in that feeling of satisfaction for having just completed such a big personal challenge. Even after 10+ marathons, it never gets any easier. 

Relieved to be celebrating another marathon in the books

Cheerleaders congratulate the marathon finishers
That afternoon, I lounged around by the pool of my hotel – drinking cinnamon milkshakes and laying in a hammock by the beach. Although I was shuffling around like an elderly person, I was excited to finally enjoy my surroundings. The hard work was complete and it was now time to enjoy the rest of my vacation. 

Enjoying the pool at my hotel

Sunset over the beaches of Danang

Reflecting on the 2015 Da Nang International Marathon, I am most proud of myself for digging deep and not letting the roadblocks overpower me. I thought the race was organized to an international standard, and I enjoyed running in the beach atmosphere (if only I had gotten more sleep the night before)! My love-hate relationship with full marathons continues, but I would absolutely recommend this race to anyone who wants to be tortured in paradise.

Well-deserved hammock time


Sunday, 23 August 2015

Qibao Ancient River Town

So much of my trip to Shanghai was about seeing my old favorites from the time I studied abroad. It was great to reminisce, but I was also determined to see at least one new area before heading back home to Hong Kong. 

Shanghai is famous for its nearby river towns, and although they are now extremely touristy, the picturesque settings are perfect for a quick day trip. 

After researching a few, I decided on Qibao - one of the closest to Shanghai and easily accessible via Metro on Line 9. From there, the tourist district is well marked. On the way to the scenic riverfront area, there are lots of small shops that never seem to sell anything worth buying.  Mostly just souvenirs and other useless gift items.

The town dates all the way back to the year 960, but it was hard to imagine what life would have been like for residents back then. These days, I could tell that the residents often live in their small shops (I could see several with mattresses propped up against the walls). On the side streets, there were groups of young children playing together. Although this district has become a modern tourist trap, there are still glimpses of the basic and difficult life that most locals must endure to make a living. 

The riverfront area was very charming. It doesn't appear to be used for much anymore (besides touristy boat rides). There were several tea houses and restaurants to visit for a peaceful view of the river to pass the day. 





When I was walking along the river, I could see a tall pagoda off in the distance and I decided to walk there and see what it was all about. Inside, I found that it was extremely well restored, with a giant buddha in each level and excellent views of the surrounding town.




Finally, no trip to China would be complete without exploring the street food culture. Qibao lives up to expectations, with countless vendors selling various meats on sticks and other unusual specialties. I was also intrigued by several cotton candy artists that carefully created floral-looking masterpieces with the sugar. Although I didn't buy any food, it is always fun to see the types of things that locals will eat.




Qibao doesn't require too much of a time commitment, but it offers a welcomed respite from the busy streets of urban Shanghai. It is still quite crowded, but I enjoyed wandering aimlessly through the streets and discovering more of the culture that makes China so unique. 

Sunday, 16 August 2015

Shanghai


I can't believe how much has changed since I was last in Shanghai. Five years ago, I arrived at Pudong airport with a mix of enthusiasm and apprehension. It was my first time visiting Asia and I was unsure what I would encounter. Now, five years later, I am once again living in Asia. This time, however, I felt like a pro. I walked through the airport with a sense of nostalgia, and I was excited to spend a few weeks in a city that I once called home.

My arrival as a businessman is a lot different than it was as a student. Instead of stepping into a taxi with my school address printed in Chinese, I was greeted by a signboard and ushered into a black, chauffeur-driven Mercedes. I arrived at the hotel, and the elevator catapulted me to the lobby on the 91st Floor. Looking out over the city, I felt a sense of dominance that I never would have predicted when I was attending job fairs and hopelessly searching for an employer who would give me a chance. The view of the Pearl Tower and the sprawling megacity was awe-inspiring. 
View from my hotel room on the 87th floor at night
View from my hotel the next morning

I decided to spend one day visiting my former school and reminiscing about all the fun times I had there. CEIBS is located very deep in the residential part of Pudong, so half of the experience is just getting there. I walked past the restaurants and bars I used to eat at with my classmates. The Thai place, the Vietnamese place, the Mexican place – all were seemingly unchanged since 2010. I went into the Carrefour where I bought my groceries and supplies to get me through the semester. When I lived here before, I was committed to trying something new in each visit, and this trip was no exception. With an unidentifiable dumpling in my hand, I walked the last few blocks to the campus. 

Returning to CEIBS, where I spent a semester of my MBA
The CEIBS library sits at the center of the campus
My timing was perfect, as the school was preparing for the latest batch of students to arrive. Some things stayed the same, but the campus had doubled in size since I was there. I snuck into the new dorms. They were so much better than where I lived. It was strange to not know anyone, but I was glad to go back.

5 years have passed since my opening ceremony at CEIBS

On my way to the Metro, I walked past a day spa where I enjoyed countless massages for incredibly bargain prices. I considered going inside for a foot massage before realizing that I am now staying in hotel with one of the best spas in the city. After a short internal debate, I opted for a spa at the hotel. Is this a sign that I now value quality more than cheap prices? Absolutely.

One afternoon, I rode the metro to The Bund and looked out at the beautiful views of the skyscrapers on the other side of the river. In 2010, my hotel was the tallest building in sight, but it is now being eclipsed by another, even taller tower still under construction. The rate of growth in China is still unmatched by any developed country.

I walked down Nanjing Road where I used to shop, and it was even busier than I had remembered. So many people trying to sell me copy watches, massages, and other overpriced junk I didn’t need. I considered going back to my favorite Shanghai-style dumpling stand, but my more mature self realized that it probably wouldn’t be a good idea to eat the mystery meat when I can now afford so much better. 

At one point, someone walked past (who I can only assume is a celebrity), and suddenly a swarm of people were running behind like maniacs with their cameras out to capture the moment. I’m sure some of them didn’t even realize whom they were chasing after, but the mob mentality was too strong to avoid. Moments such as those always bring a smile to my face because they remind me that the locals act so differently than people in the developed world.

Another day, I  went to the Yuyuan Market. Even though I know it is a complete tourist trap, I still enjoyed the ambiance when I lived in Shanghai before. It turns out the rest of China must have also learned about this place because it was absolutely packed this time. After shuffling through and getting pushed more times than I could count, I made my exit as quickly as possible.

The insanely busy Yuyuan Market
Western conveniences everywhere - even in this "historic" market

In the middle of my trip, I moved to another hotel in Xintiandi – one of the most fashionable areas of the city. Even though it is also very touristy, the architecture is so unique and there are more sophisticated shops and restaurants to explore. Pudong is amazing for views, but nothing beats Xintiandi for style.

Lobby of my hotel in Xintiandi
My trendy hotel room in Xintiandi District
Beautiful buildings in the French Concession

The final thing on my wish list was getting some custom tailored clothes. I couldn’t find the name of my tailor from 2010, so I asked a local teammate if he had any suggestions. Without even hesitating, he called someone for a private fitting in my hotel room. I picked out the material for my suit and some dress shirts and felt like I had gotten away with robbery when they told me the price. A few days later, the garments arrived and I was really satisfied with the results. I may be biased, but Shanghai is still the place to go for custom tailored clothing. 

Plenty of luxury shopping in Shanghai, but nothing beats custom tailoring

Much of my trip to Shanghai was spent reliving my study abroad days, yet on an elevated level. It was such a fascinating place to live as an MBA student, and it’s equally as amazing to visit as a professional. With something for everyone, I’m sure this will be far from my last trip to the Pearl of the Orient.  

Pearl Tower - an architectural icon of Shanghai