2013: Year in Review

As 2013 comes to an end, I have only one word: "wow!"

What an adventure this has been!  I started the year with apprehension about whether I was making the right choice to accept a job with 100% international travel.  I was mentally prepared for the sacrifices but I couldn't envision all the positive elements of the experience. 

This has proven to be been more than a job.  It is more like a lifestyle, where the boundaries between work and pleasure are blurred.  I work longer hours and I always feel like I am being observed by the staff, but this affords me countless opportunities to interact with everyone and discover more about the world.

One thing I can say with absolute certainty is that the world is a melting pot.  In 2013, I have done sightseeing in Mexico with a Polish guy, I have been to nightclubs in Morocco with a Swiss guy and a Moroccan girl, and I have meandered through the souq in Qatar with a Moroccan guy and two Syrian girls.  Nights out with the staff are always a highlight of my travels and I will never forget the generosity of my colleagues around the world.   

2013 was a year of memories:

- Breaking the 3-hour marathon barrier in Phoenix 

- Celebrating Carnival in Mexico 

- Drinking wine in Napa...and Tuscany 

- Skiing in Aspen

- Visiting my cousin in Denver

- Catching up with MBA classmates all around the world 

- Running in the Boston Marathon 

- Chasing after the pick-pocket in Casablanca (and getting my stuff back) 

- Hiking in the southernmost tip of South Africa 

- Flying from Qatar to Indianapolis to attend Drum Corps finals

- Zip-lining with my parents

- Riding an auto-rickshaw in Mumbai 

- Going on safari in Pilanesberg Game Reserve and seeing how animals manage to camouflage themselves in the wild

- Watching the sun set over the Mediterranean in Cannes 

- Cooking Thanksgiving dinner with American friends in Italy 
- Eating (what seemed like) an entire cow on our last night in Italy

- Being home for Christmas

2013 was a year of discovery:  

2013 Travel Map

I spent time in 16 countries this year, including five that I had never traveled to before (Finland, South Africa, Tanzania, Jordan, Qatar).  Beyond the passport stamps, I saw new parts of the world and learned so much more than just the business elements of my company.  

Some random facts that now float around in my head:
- In Mexico, it is believed that you will die if you sign your name in red ink. 
- In some parts of India, imported alcohol is taxed at more than 100%. 
- In France, people say that eating carrots will make you nicer. 
- The oldest university in Tanzania was established only 52 years ago. 
- In Germany, all for-profit companies are required to charge a fee for every service provided.  No free lunches here!
- In Qatar, foreign employees must surrender their passports to employers and can only leave the country with their employer's permission. 
- In Switzerland, residents must pay an annual tax for their dogs.
- In Dubai, it is illegal to eat in public during fasting hours of Ramadan.
- Bread in Tuscany is made without salt. 
- In Qatar, it is illegal to import alcohol into the country, to give away alcohol for free, and for muslims to drink alcohol. 
- In India, it is offensive to take something with your left hand. 
- Syrian refugees make up more than 10% of the population in Jordan.   

2013 was a year of athletics:

I ran four marathons (Phoenix, Boston, Dusseldorf, and Florence), four half marathons (Denver, St. Louis, Brussels, Eindhoven), a 15k in Indianapolis, a 10k in South Africa, and an 8k in Paris.  In these races, I logged a personal best in Phoenix (2:57 marathon time), a personal worst in Denver (1:34 half-marathon time), and two age group awards (Indianapolis and St. Louis).  

2013 Race Medals

Based solely on the races I have participated in this year, I would say that South Africans are the fastest and people from St. Louis are the slowest.  

Admittedly, it has been a little frustrating to see my race pace getting slower throughout the year, but I continue to push myself despite no longer having my treasured Equinox membership.  My chronic ankle problem has gotten worse and I had to battle a broken toe for a couple months. I guess my Olympic medal will have to wait for another lifetime, but it has been a thrill just being able to race in seven countries this year!

                                            - - - - - - - - - - 

My identity, more than ever, is that of an International citizen.  I am and will always be American, but I have been influenced positively by friends and colleagues that span the globe.  It will take a lot to surpass the memories from this past year but I will certainly give it my best effort.  Bring it on, 2014!  

Best of 2013

Thinking back on my travels throughout the year, it seemed necessary to write down all my favorite things.  In the style of the superlative section of the high school yearbook, here are some of the best things I encountered in 2013: 

Best tourist destination: Petra.  This magical world was unlike anything I could have imagined and I loved being able to climb on the red rocks and discover these dwellings up close.  It was depressing to see how poorly the animals were treated but the overall experience was unforgettable. 

Best tourist destination of 2013

Best sushi: Dusseldorf (home of the highest Japanese population in Germany)

Best hotel restaurant: Chennai (The Flying Elephant)

Most memorable item eaten: Crocodile (Johannesburg)

Most memorable item eaten in 2013: Crocodile

Best local food: Bobotie (Johannesburg)

Best Breakfast items: (tie!) The smoked salmon in Johannesburg and the berry crumble in Zurich. (Best overall breakfast: Doha)

Best dessert: My mom's pumpkin bars and homemade hot fudge.  No hotel food can compare! 

Best day trip: Hiking along the perimeter of the Oubaai golf resort in South Africa.  Despite the strenuous trek along the perimeter of the mountain, the views of the coastline were unforgettable.  

Best day trip of 2013

Best hotel gym: Dar es Salaam 

Best view from a hotel room: Cancun.  Seriously, who doesn't like waking up and looking out the window at waves crashing against the beach? 

Best hotel room view of 2013

Best night out with the local staff: last night in Casablanca.  (Best night out with my team from Chicago: last night in Napa)

Best sunset: Every night in Oubaai, South Africa (sunrises were equally as incredible)

Best sunset of 2013

Best employee cafeteria: Paris 

Best airport lounge: Royal Jordanian lounge in Amman

Best hotel lounge: Denver (runner-up: Doha, which would have easily won if it wasn't Ramadan and they were open for breakfast)

Best airline: Etihad

Best hotel: Too difficult to judge! Depending on the criteria, I could have several different winners.  

Christmas gifts for a professional traveler

For most normal people, a night of sleep in their own bed or an evening out with friends is nothing to get excited about.  For a professional traveler, however, these things are pretty nice gifts. I didn't have a very long Christmas list this year, but I must have been good because I got everything I wanted.  Here are my favorites:  

1) A flight upgrade

My first Christmas gift this year was from American Airlines in the form of a business-class upgrade from Paris to New York.  What a great way to start a vacation!

The experience of flying in the premium cabin really makes a huge difference in international flights - especially for someone who can't sleep sitting up.  I didn't catch any z's on the flight but it was still nice to fully recline and close my eyes for a bit.  The food is also a major upgrade. After a glass of champagne to start the trip, I had a four-course lunch that wasn't served in a foil container, and even included a custom ice-cream sundae for dessert.  

For some reason, American Airlines continues to fly planes to Europe without personal entertainment devices in coach class, so the most important benefit of this upgrade was actually being able to choose movies and shows to watch.  This may seem like a small point, but entertainment is important on an 8-hour flight!

2) A personal airport pick-up

My parents always pick me up at the airport when I come home, which is so much nicer than searching for a stranger holding a sign with the name of my hotel or sitting in the back of a taxi.   

I certainly don't have a problem with being chauffeured around in a luxury sedan to my hotels, but it's so much better when you can spend the ride with people you care about. 

3) My own bed

Hotels are almost like a home for me, but I still enjoy the sense of ease that accompanies my own bed.  I don't have to worry about the dirty people who have stayed in my room before me or whether I will find a strand of the housekeeper's hair in the sheets.  Even though I love having people to clean for me when I am living in hotels, there is a certain level of comfort that simply cannot be achieved unless I am at home.  

4) Time with family and friends

Often, my trips back home are too short to see everyone that I would like to catch up with.  This time, I was lucky enough to have two weeks off, which even allowed me with a couple nights to just relax at home without feeling guilty that I was squandering time that could have otherwise been spent seeing more people. 

5) Christmas Eve traditions

Every year, Christmas eve involves a carefully-orchestrated series of events that should never be altered.  I join my mom at church, which is followed by take-out Chinese/Japanese food with my family.  (This year, I was tired of eating out for every meal so I just paired some appetizers with a simple salad).  

After dinner, I meet up with all my high school friends at the annual Christmas Eve party.  Normally, we are confined to a side room with the most perfectly decorated tree I have ever seen.  This year, however, we were re-assigned to the dining room table, which allowed for much easier access to the desserts and alcohol.  :)

The after-party is a more recent tradition where only the most hearty souls head to another home for late-night libations.  Even though it wreaks havoc on Christmas morning, I feel like a younger version of myself when I can stay up with friends until after 3AM. 

6) A united family

I'm lucky that my extended family enjoys being home for Christmas just as much as I do.  My cousins are spread around the United States (Denver, Washington DC, New York and Boston), yet we all managed to see each other on Christmas Day.  

Annual cousin picture

Beyond just coming together physically, I am lucky that everyone on both sides of the extended family gets along with one another. There are no awkward conversations at the table or subtle insults throughout the meal.  

My brother hosted Christmas at his house, which is ideal for parties because of the open floor plan, two built-in bars, billiard room, and central speaker system that plays music everywhere.  We also discovered the "Heads Up" ipad app, which provided hours of fun as the "youngs" and the "olds" battled it out.  

7) Travel-themed gifts

Let's just face it.  I live out of a suitcase, so I obviously don't need furniture, housewares, or any other gifts that most people my age are finding under the tree these days.   

I figured that new luggage would make for a good gift but I am very specific.  It has to be black, sleek, well-branded, and lighter than what I currently use.  Otherwise, there's no point in updating.   My mom and I spent one afternoon at the mall and we must have looked like crazy people as we picked up every suitcase to inspect the weight and size dimensions like we were searching for a new home.  I suppose my suitcase is like a home since it transports all of my belongings for 3-4 months at a time.  I was so excited to find with one that fit all the qualifications...and with wheels that spin in complete circles.  Score! 

Another gift that only professional travelers would appreciate is metal collar-stays.  Most people have probably never even heard of these, but it is important when the laundry people are constantly losing the plastic ones that come with my shirts.  I can't have my collars flapping around all day!
  
8) A gym membership

Some people need coffee as part of their daily routine.  I need a work-out.  My mom knows this about me, so she always gets me a temporary gym membership when I come home.  Honestly, this means the world to me - especially during the holidays, when I have even more calories to burn.  

It's also a gift to be able to wake up whenever I want and not have to rush to the gym for an abbreviated workout before starting my day.  Throughout my break, I had very leisurely mornings and I often didn't even make it to the gym until around noon.  I know I'm a little nutty for thinking that a vacation should involve MORE time at the gym, but it felt like an adult playground next to the limited equipment options I usually have to deal with on the road.    

9) My own car

When I am traveling for work, I never have access to a car.  It's just too complicated to navigate the roads, so I normally just walk or take taxis whenever I want to go out.  I haven't owned a car since around 2005, so I am well accustomed to this type of transport.  

Having said that, I still really enjoy the freedom to drive myself around with my own car.  Whenever I visit my parents, I get to use one of their extra cars and it is a gift that I will never take for granted.  Part of me feels like I'm on vacation when I can just turn on the music and sing aloud.  I certainly can't do that when I'm riding in the back of a taxi (without people thinking I'm crazy).

10) A snowstorm

I grew up in New England.  Christmas is just not the same without some snow. The weather was surprisingly warm during the first few days of my vacation, but we got a decent storm just after the new year.  The white stuff made my winter vacation feel complete!  

11) Freedom to control what I eat


When I travel, I can't just call room service and ask for a handful of cashews or a granola bar.  I am always forced to accommodate my schedule to that of the local team, and this means no snacking and meals whenever they normally eat.  Even at dinner (when I normally don't eat too much), the waiters always look at me funny when I order just a piece of grilled meat/fish without any sides. "Steamed" vegetables always seem to be laden with oil but I don't have the audacity to instruct the chefs about how I want my food prepared.  

My preferred eating habits have always involved 5 small meals per day, including small snacks whenever I get bored/hungry.  I cook things with very little oil, eat dairy products without any fat, and avoid anything deep-fried.  

Being home is like a gift to my digestive system because I can eat whatever I want, whenever I want.  My body was not too happy about all the excess desserts over the past two weeks, but it's the holidays after all!  Fortunately, almost everything else I ate was much more healthy than I am able to find when I travel.       

12) Fond Farewell

Whenever I finish a work assignment, the local teams must be secretly happy for me to be gone.  (Sometimes it's not such a secret!)  I don't blame them because I am always a huge disruption to their normal operations while I ask questions and pry into their work.  

Trips back home are a completely different feeling, as my friends and family genuinely seem happy to have me back.  At the end of every night out, we discuss when I will be back and it always seems like too long.  For me, a fond farewell is like the wrapping paper on a gift.  It seals the memories of all that exists inside, while also making you want to tear back in and discover the contents of the package.  

This Christmas couldn't have been better and the memories of my gifts will surely come along with me to my next travel destinations.  

Anticipating the holidays

The month of December usually puts me in a festive mood, as I prepare for the holidays with family and friends.  I love seeing the lights on the trees, attending Christmas parties, and even listening to the hokey songs as I rush through the malls.  It's the one time of year when traditions and comforts of home are really important to me. 

I will admit that the weeks leading up to Christmas were difficult for me this year.  My project in Paris was really stressful and I was working completely on my own, without any other human interaction (other than lunch).  

Most of my friends thought I was crazy for complaining about an extended assignment in Paris.  On the surface, I don't blame them.  Paris is a beautiful city - especially during the holidays.  My hotel is literally in the ideal location for exploring the city and it was decorated beautifully for Christmas.  The view from my office was also enough to put even the grinch in a festive mood. 

Christmas lights make everything more festive

However, there was one important thing missing: warmth.  I'm not talking about the heat in the building or even the weather outside.  I'm talking about the feeling that the holidays should bring. 

I tried listening to Christmas music on my computer as I worked.  I also ventured outside the hotel as much as possible, so I could marvel at the decorations around the city and absorb the energy from people around me.  After almost two months in the same place, the excitement of exploring the city had dissipated and I found myself wishing that I could enjoy my surroundings with people I care about. 

Fortunately, I was completely re-energized one weekend when a good friend from my MBA program visited.  Since graduating, we have managed to see each other once per year (2011 in Zurich and 2012 in London) so I was really excited to keep the tradition going.  We walked through the Christmas market near the Champs Elysées, drank some mulled wine, marveled at the lights, and stopped for a traditional tourist picture in front of the Eiffel Tower. 

Enjoying an evening in Paris

By the time we returned to the hotel the first night, we had traversed nearly the entire city.  I barely remember seeing anything because we just talked incessantly everywhere we went.  As much as I wish we could see each other more often, it's so nice to know that we can always pick up right where we left off and have such a fun time together.  

To be completely honest, Christmas decorations in Paris are a mixed bag.  Maybe I have been to too many amazing German Christmas markets, but the one in Paris doesn't even come close.  It was completely overcrowded with tourists (no surprise) and it felt like 90% of the booths just sold junk food and cheap gifts.  There were very few high-quality items for sale and nothing that was really worth stuffing into my suitcase.  It's probably great for kids (several rides, a big ice-skating rink, and even a santa that rides a sleigh along a cable in the sky), but the only thing that appealed to me was the spiced wine.  

Even the lights along the Champs-Elysées were a disappointment, compared to what I was anticipating.  All the pictures I have seen online look like this: 

This is how I imagined the christmas lights to look

But here's the reality: 

This is how the Christmas lights actually looked 

The Arc de Triomphe was right behind me in this photo and it always looks nice all lit up, but what's with the modern LED "rings"??  I want the trees to glitter with traditional lights!!

At least Place Vendôme lived up to expectations, with more Christmas trees lining the street than I could have even imagined.  I was walking past La Canadienne one night and they actually had a live sheep in the display window.  Ok, Paris, you win.  This really is one of the best cities in the world for Christmas shopping. 

Place Vendome, decorated for Christmas

I was so excited to return home that the last few days of the project passed at lightening speed.  Miraculously, all my hard work started coming together and I could see many positive results.  I was proud of myself for persevering through a very difficult project without any guidance and for all that I taught myself along the way.  

Considering all the places I could have been stuck for almost two months, central Paris is actually one of the best alternatives.  Without such beautiful surroundings, the weekend visit from my friend, and encouragement along the way from my parents, I may have actually gone insane.   Fortunately, the project ended on a high note and I could not be more excited to spend two weeks at home with family and friends.  

Cafés of Paris

Returning to Paris after vacation felt a little like coming back home.  

...to a home that I don't like so much.

Part of the problem is the food.  It's not that the hotel restaurant is bad, but no one wants to eat every meal from a single menu for six weeks.  I don't usually care much about food, but French cuisine is particularly unappealing to me.  Breads are boring, sauces are too rich, and proteins involve parts of the animal that I would never consider eating.

My mindset about being back in Paris changed a little when I was working in a meeting room earlier this week, with a great view of Le Palais Royal.  I stopped to look outside the window and ended up spending about five minutes just watching the activity at a nearby café.  It was fun to watch people enjoying the nice weather, while they sipped coffee and watched the activity around them.  The waiters were clad in black vests and bow ties, which added to the Parisian feel.    

Hard to concentrate on work with this view 

People enjoying a beautiful day at the café

When I looked back at my computer, I realized that I had been focusing too much on work and failing to appreciate the my prime location within one of the finest cities in the world. I may not love the food in Paris, but I do love looking at all the cafés and markets that line the streets.  On Saturday morning, I meandered through the streets and took pictures of anything that attracted my attention. 

Produce market

The Dog That Smokes (who comes up with these names?)

I'll just grab a rotisserie chicken from the sidewalk!

Each chair is lined up perfectly

This place was decorated for the holidays

Each café I saw was unique, yet similar.  They all try to maximize sidewalk space with little round tables crammed together.  Heat lamps were blazing, while a few brave souls continued to eat outside.  Weekly specials are almost always written on the chalkboard by the entrance so passerby's can contemplate the menu.  Onion soup, steak with frites, and chocolate mousse are commonplace in Paris.  The city is so steeped with history and culinary traditions are an important part of that.  

Walking back to my hotel, I thought about restaurants in the United States.  Even the smaller towns have a greater variety of food options than what is offered in Paris.  This is probably a reflection of the diverse American population.     

I often look at Europe with admiration, but I need to give credit to the United States when it is deserved.  Food choice is definitely one of those areas.  I never really think about food at home because I can buy almost anything I need, whenever I am in the mood for it: sushi, pizza, mexican, thai, italian...you name it.  

The cafés and markets in Paris are definitely picturesque and meandering down every street is like walking through a postcard.  However, I don't want to eat a postcard and I also don't want to eat what most of these cafés are serving.  Maybe I should open a Mexican restaurant in Paris - just to see what would happen!  

Lucca

We decided to visit Lucca on our last full day in Italy.  The main attraction listed in most guide books is the city wall, which somehow managed to eclipse the cathedral.  It's amazing how many walled cities there are in Tuscany.  I've heard of not trusting your neighbors, but these Italians really took it to the extreme! 

Our first stop in Lucca was at a coffee shop, which amused me because it looked just like a bar with an espresso machine behind the counter (instead of beer taps).  I really appreciate how the Italians stop their activities for just a few minutes to drink their espresso and socialize with the people around them.  It's so different than the American culture of rushing through life with a take-away Starbucks cup in one hand and a phone in the other.  

Italians know how to enjoy life. 

We walked through the tiny streets to an open piazza that used to be an amphitheater (the old seats have been replaced by buildings but the piazza retained its circular shape).  We then made our way to a tower and climbed for a birds-eye view of the city.  

Views of Lucca from the tower

For lunch, we found an awesome restaurant, recommended by Rick Steves that absolutely surpassed expectations with its homemade Italian specialties.  The owner / waitress didn't seem to speak any English, but somehow, we didn't have any problems communicating with her.  We obviously wouldn't have been able to enjoy a deep conversation, but it is really great how the language gaps can be mitigated with some hand gestures and knowledge of a few key words.  Food in Italy has been really good but there is so much less variety than you would find throughout the US and in other European cities like London and Frankfurt.  I'm ready to give up pasta, breads, and sangiovese for a while.  

It's only logical to engage in some activity after a big meal, so we walked towards the edge of town to rent bicycles for the 5k loop around the city walls.  When we arrived, our eyes were immediately attracted to a 4-passenger bicycle.  Knowing that we would look absolutely ridiculous, we also rented a separate bicycle so the 5th person could ride alongside and take photos.  

Maybe we're totally uncoordinated or maybe these bikes are just a little more challenging than they look, but it's not so easy to pedal in unison and pick up any decent level of speed.  The front left rider is solely responsible for steering and braking, while others just mindlessly pedal themselves in whichever direction the driver chooses to take.  We had a lot of laughs throughout the entire ride and, of course, got many stares from the locals as we traveled down the path.  

Here's my view from the driver's seat. 

I'm not sure if Brian was jealous or relieved to be on the solo bike. 

Yes, we looked ridiculous.  

Before heading back to Chianti, we took a detour to the Piaggio museum because Paul wanted to get an authentic helmet for the Vespa that he just bought for the mean streets of Washington DC.  I didn't even know they sold Vespa in the US but I can almost guarantee he will be one of only a few people with a branded helmet all the way from Pontedera, Italy.  

The museum was actually really fun to walk through and it contained a wide variety of Vespa scooters from the past 50+ years, as well as some novelty models.  They even had a "stretch-Vespa", which would be a great idea for Asia (where entire families ride on one scooter).  

Perfect for the high occupancy rides in India and China!

My personal favorite was the cow vespa.  

After finishing at the museum, we had quite the adventurous ride back to Chianti.  Everything was fine on the highway but once we got into the mountains, the road got narrow and was completely pitch black.  Every time another car came barreling towards us, I was ready to have a heart attack.  Adding to that, our gas light was on and, every time the car halted to change gears, I was wondering if we were out of gas. 

Fortunately, we arrived at the restaurant unscathed and I was ready for our much-anticipated final meal: a 5-course steak dinner at a butcher shop/restaurant that is famous for the quality of its meat.  Every night, they only have one seating and everyone is served at two communal tables.  This is more red meat than I usually eat in a month but I was excited for the experience.     

Here's the menu for dinner.  

The chef announced each course as if it was the arrival of a new prince and everyone in the room shared his excitement.  My goal for the night was to pace myself because I'm not good at eating large quantities in one sitting.  By the 2nd cut of beef, I was already feeling satisfied and wondering how I would manage the next 3 courses... 

The chef announces the next meat course. 

Round of applause for more meat!

As the meal progressed, people became more friendly with their neighbors.  Brian was speaking Spanish to the guys on one side, while Paul and I were getting to know the couple on the other side of us.  Meanwhile, the steak just kept coming and coming.  

The most unique item served: Burro del Chianti.  Translated into plain English: lard.  I hate to even admit it, but I really enjoyed it.  I don't think I'll ever spread lard on my bread in the future, but it was all part of the experience. 

I think we ate every part of this cow. 

Officina della Bistecca is such a unique and fun experience that I would highly recommend it to anyone traveling in the region (except, maybe, the vegetarians).  It's not a fancy restaurant and the atmosphere is the opposite of romantic, but it is uniquely Italian.  People dine together and enjoy a well-prepared meal with high quality meats.  It was the perfect place to cap off our wonderful Italian vacation.  

We love red meat!

Thanksgiving in Italy

The day started just like any other traditional Thanksgiving:  I woke up and looked out the window at the Italian countryside.  Ok, maybe it was not so traditional - but we were certainly prepared to make the holiday as authentic as it can be in the middle of Italy.  

A few of us went to the local grocery store in the morning to search for all the items we would need for the foods that we would be eating if we were at home.  Surprisingly, most things were easy enough to find.  One surprising exception was bread, which all seemed to have a crusty exterior that doesn't quite work for stuffing.  Of course, the most important item for the day (wine) was in plentiful supply. 

Brian and his aunt were well prepared for the lack of turkeys in Italian butcher shops, so they ordered one in advance.  To my surprise, we ended up with a fresh one (so fresh, in fact, that it still had some feathers attached)!   

The centerpiece of our Thanksgiving dinner.

Nick also predicted difficulty in finding cranberries, so he brought a bag all the way from the US.  He was talking about how Massachusetts is a huge provider of the world's cranberry stock, so I did some research and  learned some interesting random facts about the cranberry:
-  It is one of only 3 commerically-grown fruits native to North America. 
- It is Massachusetts' #1 agricultural commodity crop and Massachusetts is home to 40% of all cranberry growers in North America.  (Who knew there was agriculture in Massachusetts?!)

Shortly after returning to the villa with groceries, the cooking activities had begun and the first bottle of wine was uncorked.  I am not much of a chef (I haven't even cooked a meal for myself since August), so I just took the role of prep and support.   

By mid-afternoon, Brian had suggested a hike in the hills around the villa, which was the perfect activity for me.  We hadn't done any physical activity since the marathon (4 days ago), so it felt nice to get outside and actually stretch out my leg muscles a bit.  Our task for the hike was to come back with a "table-scape" (too much influence from the Food Network), so we grabbed some leaves and twigs on the way back.    

Views from our hike

Doing some activity for the first time in 4 days.

Vineyards (post-harvest)

Throughout the afternoon, our kitchen was remarkably efficient.  Emily and Nick took the roles of head chefs and the rest of us stayed busy with various tasks and, of course, more wine drinking.  

Nick and Jason slice apples for the pie

Brian sautees leeks for something (gravy? stuffing?)

Paul prepares some sausage stuffing.

Emily prepares the brussels sprouts

Brian and Paul test the mashed potatoes. 

There was also a lot of hanging around with wine. 

Our Italian neighbors arrived just as the food was finishing and it was finally time to sit down and see if our cooking was up to standards.  It's hard to know whether Italians would enjoy traditional American dishes but I think the flavors are universal enough to appeal to almost anyone.  With a toast of champagne, it was time to dig in.  

Toasting to start the Thanksgiving Dinner

I was pleased to see the Italians not only filling their plates for one course but actually returning to the buffet for second helpings.  They obviously understand how to eat like Americans on this holiday.  

Here's a picture of the entire group at the table

After we finished eating, we even taught the Italians about breaking the wishbone.  The only tradition that seemed to be missing was an American football game, but I guess I can forgive Italian tv coverage for not offering this as an option.

2013 marked the fourth time I have been out of the country for Thanksgiving and, of all four years, it definitely felt the most like being at home.  (Last year in Istanbul, the only thing that reminded me of Thanksgiving was the fact that we were in Turkey).  This year, reminders of home were just what I needed and I'm thankful to my friends for making it happen.