Lucca

We decided to visit Lucca on our last full day in Italy.  The main attraction listed in most guide books is the city wall, which somehow managed to eclipse the cathedral.  It's amazing how many walled cities there are in Tuscany.  I've heard of not trusting your neighbors, but these Italians really took it to the extreme! 

Our first stop in Lucca was at a coffee shop, which amused me because it looked just like a bar with an espresso machine behind the counter (instead of beer taps).  I really appreciate how the Italians stop their activities for just a few minutes to drink their espresso and socialize with the people around them.  It's so different than the American culture of rushing through life with a take-away Starbucks cup in one hand and a phone in the other.  

Italians know how to enjoy life. 

We walked through the tiny streets to an open piazza that used to be an amphitheater (the old seats have been replaced by buildings but the piazza retained its circular shape).  We then made our way to a tower and climbed for a birds-eye view of the city.  

Views of Lucca from the tower

For lunch, we found an awesome restaurant, recommended by Rick Steves that absolutely surpassed expectations with its homemade Italian specialties.  The owner / waitress didn't seem to speak any English, but somehow, we didn't have any problems communicating with her.  We obviously wouldn't have been able to enjoy a deep conversation, but it is really great how the language gaps can be mitigated with some hand gestures and knowledge of a few key words.  Food in Italy has been really good but there is so much less variety than you would find throughout the US and in other European cities like London and Frankfurt.  I'm ready to give up pasta, breads, and sangiovese for a while.  

It's only logical to engage in some activity after a big meal, so we walked towards the edge of town to rent bicycles for the 5k loop around the city walls.  When we arrived, our eyes were immediately attracted to a 4-passenger bicycle.  Knowing that we would look absolutely ridiculous, we also rented a separate bicycle so the 5th person could ride alongside and take photos.  

Maybe we're totally uncoordinated or maybe these bikes are just a little more challenging than they look, but it's not so easy to pedal in unison and pick up any decent level of speed.  The front left rider is solely responsible for steering and braking, while others just mindlessly pedal themselves in whichever direction the driver chooses to take.  We had a lot of laughs throughout the entire ride and, of course, got many stares from the locals as we traveled down the path.  

Here's my view from the driver's seat. 

I'm not sure if Brian was jealous or relieved to be on the solo bike. 

Yes, we looked ridiculous.  

Before heading back to Chianti, we took a detour to the Piaggio museum because Paul wanted to get an authentic helmet for the Vespa that he just bought for the mean streets of Washington DC.  I didn't even know they sold Vespa in the US but I can almost guarantee he will be one of only a few people with a branded helmet all the way from Pontedera, Italy.  

The museum was actually really fun to walk through and it contained a wide variety of Vespa scooters from the past 50+ years, as well as some novelty models.  They even had a "stretch-Vespa", which would be a great idea for Asia (where entire families ride on one scooter).  

Perfect for the high occupancy rides in India and China!

My personal favorite was the cow vespa.  

After finishing at the museum, we had quite the adventurous ride back to Chianti.  Everything was fine on the highway but once we got into the mountains, the road got narrow and was completely pitch black.  Every time another car came barreling towards us, I was ready to have a heart attack.  Adding to that, our gas light was on and, every time the car halted to change gears, I was wondering if we were out of gas. 

Fortunately, we arrived at the restaurant unscathed and I was ready for our much-anticipated final meal: a 5-course steak dinner at a butcher shop/restaurant that is famous for the quality of its meat.  Every night, they only have one seating and everyone is served at two communal tables.  This is more red meat than I usually eat in a month but I was excited for the experience.     

Here's the menu for dinner.  

The chef announced each course as if it was the arrival of a new prince and everyone in the room shared his excitement.  My goal for the night was to pace myself because I'm not good at eating large quantities in one sitting.  By the 2nd cut of beef, I was already feeling satisfied and wondering how I would manage the next 3 courses... 

The chef announces the next meat course. 

Round of applause for more meat!

As the meal progressed, people became more friendly with their neighbors.  Brian was speaking Spanish to the guys on one side, while Paul and I were getting to know the couple on the other side of us.  Meanwhile, the steak just kept coming and coming.  

The most unique item served: Burro del Chianti.  Translated into plain English: lard.  I hate to even admit it, but I really enjoyed it.  I don't think I'll ever spread lard on my bread in the future, but it was all part of the experience. 

I think we ate every part of this cow. 

Officina della Bistecca is such a unique and fun experience that I would highly recommend it to anyone traveling in the region (except, maybe, the vegetarians).  It's not a fancy restaurant and the atmosphere is the opposite of romantic, but it is uniquely Italian.  People dine together and enjoy a well-prepared meal with high quality meats.  It was the perfect place to cap off our wonderful Italian vacation.  

We love red meat!