Adventure in the Western Cape

I was planning to leave South Africa on Friday, but President Obama seems to be occupying my entire hotel in Dar es Salaam so I had to extend my stay in Oubaai by a few days.  Part of me was disappointed because this means I will only get one weekend to explore Tanzania, but I can't complain too much because Oubaai has been so relaxing and beautiful.  I was determined to find something to keep me occupied for my third and final weekend in South Africa. 

My ears immediately perked up when the concierge recommended shark diving because I love activities that get my heart rate up.  Sadly, as is the theme of this trip, no one else had signed up for diving and the only way the company would take me out on the tour was if I was willing to charter the entire boat.  Donald Trump forgot to wire me an allowance this week, so I had to find another activity.  

The concierge recommended a hiking trail.  My first thought was: *yawn*. I'm a runner, not a walker.  But, in a town with very few things to do,  it seemed to be my only other option.  I started around 10AM at the edge of the golf resort.  Before I even entered nature, I was in awe by some of the houses.  I would love to wake up every morning with a panoramic view of the Indian Ocean - especially with the sunrises I have been witnessing over the past two weeks.  

Amazing views from this little shack. 

As I ventured down towards the coastline, I passed a pond with lots of amazing birds and wondered if I would see any other animals (hopefully not).  They are just as afraid of me as I am of them - at least that's what my Dad always used to say.  The hiking trail started through some wooded areas and was surprisingly well-kept.  Every time I caught a glimpse of the ocean, I took another picture as if it would be my only opportunity to see it.  

Here's my first taste of the Indian Ocean from the hiking trail...

I didn't realize that the view at the end of this trail would be the most amazing coastline I have ever experienced.  I took about an hour to just sit on the rocks and enjoy the peaceful solitude.  I even blasted my ipod and started singing along to the music - something I never do anymore since I don't have any privacy in my life.  

I set my camera in a bush with the self-timer for this picture!

I could have literally sat here all day

When I was finally ready to move along, I hiked across the mountain ridge toward a whale viewing deck that was closer to the water.  From there, I could actually climb along the rocks and get right up to the ocean.  I feel like a kid whenever I get to climb on rocks.  It always reminds me of the days when my family would go up to my grandparents' cottage in New Hampshire and walk through a rocky brook that meandered along the edge of their property.  

Climbing along the rocks near the water. 

I sat on the rocks for a while and just enjoyed the sound of the waves crashing against the coast. Looking out over the vast blue ocean, I could even see a few whale backs emerging along the surface.  It was amazing to think that the next land mass to the south is Antarctica.  I eventually decided it was time to keep moving and started walking back towards the trail.  

From there, the trail continued along the mountain ridge and literally weaved its way through all kinds of terrain imaginable.  There were several parts where I couldn't even tell whether I was following the trail because the trees and shrubs had started growing back.  This portion was considerably more difficult than the route along the coast and it was obvious that most people are not up for the workout.

One of many diverse views along this part of the trail

Silly self picture? yes.  But the views were too good!

Every twist of the trail brought a new and exciting terrain.  Before I knew it, I was alongside a river that reminded me even more of the brook near my grandparents' cottage except that it was surrounded on both sides by lush green mountains.  I must have had a smile on my face the entire time because my surroundings were just so peaceful and relaxing. 

But you know what wasn't relaxing?  The hike!  My gosh, it's no wonder the trails aren't used very often - they were tough!  I think I went up and down the side of the mountain at least 5 times over the course of the day.  By the time I reached the resort again, it was almost 6pm and the sky was almost dark.  My ankle felt like it was ready to pop out any moment, but the pain was totally worthwhile.  

I returned to the hotel and thanked the concierge for the amazing recommendation.  I wasn't initially excited about a full-day hike, but it was just what I needed to rejuvenate myself.  My entire life is on display, as I am constantly watched by everyone in the hotels - from the fitness center attendant to the housekeepers.  It was so nice to get away from it all - even just for one day.  I could sing at the top of my lungs, I could take stupid pictures of myself, and I didn't have to fake-smile to anyone.  It was perfect.  

Vacation in Oubaai

Is it bad when business travel starts feeling like vacation?  My first week at Oubaai golf resort has been so relaxing and laid-back that I barely noticed the work.  I wake up every morning and watch the sun rise from my window as I got ready for the gym.  The colors in the sky are slightly different each day, but always absolutely stunning.  I could literally spend hours, just sitting on the balcony and staring out at the sun rise over the mountains and the golf course.  
  

Here's the sunrise from my window 

Here's another beautiful sunrise...

And another... (ok, I'll stop now)

After easing into my day, I spend my obligatory time at the gym to work off some of the amazing food from the night before.  The signature restaurant at this hotel is totally my style: Fresh seafood and unique cuts of meat, all grilled in an open kitchen while I enjoy my warm bread and olive oil.  I literally don't have enough days in the trip to try all the things on the menu that look appealing (this is a very unusual problem for me). 

Grilled ostrich may not look appealing, but it tastes amazing!

They call it "layers of white chocolate".  I call it "layers of heaven". 

Speaking of good food, the breakfast each morning is also fantastic.  Any resolutions to start the day with a healthy meal quickly end when I smell the fresh baked breads, muffins, and mini quiches.  Seriously, how can anyone resist such temptations?  I'm practically the only person in the resort, so I almost feel obligated to put at least a small dent in the lavish breakfast buffet. 

Everyone is super friendly and my contact even gave me a private office, which just adds to the relaxed atmosphere.  (Normally, one of my pet peeves is when people try to peek at my computer screen every time they pass my chair, so having a private office helps to eliminate that annoyance).  

On Friday night, I was invited to a formal dinner that was being hosted for the staff.  Normally I would feel awkward accepting an invitation like this, but everyone has been so friendly that it didn't seem strange at all.  As soon as I entered the room, I was blown away by the decor.  They really went all out on making this party special and I was lucky to be in town for it. 

Here's what the room looked like at the start of the night

Throughout the night, they played clips of an old British comedy about a hotel (which was hilarious, as can be expected from all British comedies).  The DJ was also good and he even introduced me to some Afrikaans music.  

One of my favorite conversations of the night was when the IT Manager asked: "Chris, what are your favorite jams?"

My response: "Well, in South Africa, my favorite jam is definitely gooseberry"  <<cue laughter from everyone within earshot>>  

"Oh, I meant what are your favorite MUSICAL jams?"   

Oops...  :)

Here I am with part of the local Finance team

I must admit that the wide range of "formalwear" at the party was pretty hilarious.  Thinking back on my trip to the mall last week, I shouldn't have been all that surprised.  Oh, and the best part of the night was watching all the staff break it down on the dance floor.  In case you're wondering, black people are also better dancers in South Africa.  

After a thoroughly good time at the party, I took a few pictures around the hotel before heading back to my room for the night.  As one of the only people in the resort, I almost felt like I owned the place!

Looking down into the breakfast restaurant from the lobby

Lobby Lounge

Here's the front desk

If the hotel ever needs a spokesperson, I would gladly rave about it anytime.  I just wish it wasn't located 8,000 miles away from Boston because everyone should come here for vacation (or work)! 

DCI 2013

It's Opening Day! ...No, not baseball (who cares about that?)!

Tonight, Drum Corps International begins its 2013 season and I could not be more excited.  Between now and August 20th, I will be following my two former drum corps as they travel across the United States to present yet another year of incredible shows for thousands of fans each night.  For the first time since 1999, I won't be in the country to attend any shows live, but I will definitely be following the scores and watching streaming videos from every regional competition and throughout finals week. 

Of course, drum corps is about more than just scores.  When I was a member, the scores were just our reward for the hard work.  We were completely removed from the world as we practiced all day, performed every evening, and traveled during the overnight hours. We needed updates from the staff just to hear about the big news stories.  These days, I couldn't even imagine being disconnected for a single day, let alone two months.  Yet, it was refreshing back then.  I had only one thing in mind: perfecting the show. 

My involvement in drum corps changed my life.  Not only did drum corps provide me with amazing friendships, but it also taught me about pride, dedication, teamwork, and confidence.  We woke up every morning as a team, rehearsed as a team in any weather condition, pushed each other to thrive, and pushed ourselves even when we didn't think we had any strength left.  We relied on each other for field positioning, for harmonies in every chord, and for energy throughout the show. 

To this day, people laugh when I tell them I spent 3 summers touring the country in a "professional marching band".  Honestly, I don't even care anymore.  There are so many adults without any real passions and I am so fortunate to have something that I am truly passionate about.  Whenever I go to a show, it takes me right back to my years as a marching member - eating out of a food truck, sleeping on buses, showering in high school locker rooms, and practicing for hours in 100-degree heat. 

Anyone who has seen drum corps on tv, in the movie theaters, or online can appreciate one dimension of the performances.  Those who have been to a live show can experience even more excitement.  But only those who have performed in a world-class drum corps truly understand what it's like to be on the field, surrounded by your best friends, and hearing tens of thousands of people cheering for you.  That is something I will never forget. 

At the end of the summer, the struggles fade quickly but the memory of the experience only gets stronger.  If you ask me now, I spent 3 summers as a rock star, while my friends did boring office jobs.  I can't wait to see what the rock stars have in store for us this year!

George, South Africa

I really like when my job sends me to places that I would otherwise never have the chance (or desire) to visit.  George is definitely one of those places.  It's a small city of about 120,000 people that emerged from the demand for wood.  That's right, wood.  

I don't know what's so special about the wood along the southern coast of South Africa, but the area is now more popular as a holiday destination.  George is located about four hours from Cape Town, along the Garden Route.  I really wanted to rent a car and drive to Cape Town, but I'm not so good at driving on the left side of the road and I have no experience using a manual transmission.  

Arriving in George was beautiful.  Lush, green mountains framed the city and the waves of the Indian ocean crashed against the rocky coastline.  I almost had a feeling of being in Hawaii (although I have never been to Hawaii). 

My hotel was opened in 2010 as part of the Oubaai Golf Resort and the ambience was that of understated luxury.  I love newer hotels because I don't feel like I am sharing my room with thousands of strangers who have occupied it before me.  Everything just felt cleaner.  My only observation was that the bathroom is completely open to the room, which is great for me but may not be good for people who want any privacy when they are showering.  Maybe the designers were exhibitionists?  

Here's my beautiful room in Oubaai

I love when amenities are in my room and this hotel totally delivered in that department as well.  Sparkling grape juice, chocolate-dipped strawberries, cashews, and biltong (dried meat) were the perfect way to welcome me to the resort.  

The next morning, I woke up early to run a 10k race that was being held at the Garden Route Mall in the city.  I was excited when I discovered the race because it is one of the few races that coincides with my travel schedule this year.  I'll admit, this race is far from glamorous.  It starts and ends at the mall and registration was in the McDonald's parking lot.  The course took us through new housing developments under construction and crowd support was completely absent.  Still, it's always nice to have a 'check' on my fitness level and make sure I am not getting completely out of shape.  

Before the race even got started, I was amazed to hear everyone speaking Afrikaans.  I had always assumed English to be the standard language in South Africa, but Afrikaans absolutely takes predominance in this area.  Of course everyone is bi-lingual, but no one will speak English unless they are prompted.  

The race, itself, was fine but I was amazed at how fast people are in South Africa!  My overall finish time was respectable, but my placement was a lot lower than races I have done in other countries - especially the US.  It is clear that racers here are all serious runners and not just out for a fun weekend activity.  Regardless of my placement, I am really glad that I had the chance to run. 

Finish line of the Garden Routeh 10k race

After the race was over, I explored the mall for a couple hours.  Based on the selection of shops and high percentage of sporting goods stores, it is clear that this city is all about outdoor activities and casual living.  Suited professionals and fashionistas need not visit the Garden Route Mall!  

The next day, I went out for the afternoon with some of the local staff.  It was nice of them to give up part of their weekend to show me around because the coastline was really beautiful.  We had lunch along Victoria Bay and watched the surfers enjoying the waves.  

Here's the restaurant where we ate lunch

And this was the view from the table...

After a few hours in Victoria Bay, we drove through George, then Wilderness (a nearby town with more of a coastline for beaches), and finally, to Herolds Bay for more good views and some ice cream.  I was really surprised by all the restaurants, shops, and inns that had closed down due to low/seasonal business.  If this resort town was in the United States, it would be making loads of money. 

Here's the view as we drove into Wilderness

A couple fishermen in Heroldsbay

My first weekend in George was quiet, but it set a really good tone for a relaxed project. 

Pilanesberg Game Reserve

I never really understood the appeal of a safari.  To me, it just sounded like a trip to an expensive zoo that doesn't tell you where any of the animals are located.  When I found out I would be going to Africa for work, I didn't even bother researching safaris as possible weekend excursions.  Then, on the last day of the Johannesburg project, I found out my trip would be extended for an additional week.

A third week in a boring city with nothing to do?? (sad face)

I needed to escape so I took this as a hint that I should at least enquire about a safari.  Where else was I supposed to go? Swaziland?

The concierge recommended a tour company called "Not for Sissies".  I already liked the sound of this.  The girl I spoke with totally sold me on the idea so I booked a trip to Pilanesberg Game Reserve. 

The ride took about 2 hours and I got to relax in a 15-passenger van with only the driver and one other person.  I had quite a few laughs on the way because people kept mistaking our van for one of the public buses and they were jumping around with their hand signals, trying to get us to pick them up.  

When we arrived at Pilanesberg, the first thing I saw was a few zebras alongside the access road to the hotel.  I immediately pulled out my camera and began snapping photos as if these would be the only animals I would see the entire weekend!

The first of many animal sightings!

The hotel was actually situated inside the border of the game reserve and the fences along the property even included warnings about the animals that may approach.   

Apparently elephants are scared by loud noises

We sat down for lunch and a bird landed on the empty seat across from me.  SO EXCITING!  I had to take another picture! (Normally, I'm not a fan of birds but it's completely different on a safari...)  During the meal, several other animals that I didn't recognize started grazing near the fence.  For someone who didn't initially want to take a safari, I certainly got excited about seeing these animals in their natural habitat.   

Hopefully this won't be the highlight of the safari!

After lunch, we boarded our cool safari vehicles (aka: pimped out flatbed trucks).  I opted for the last seat, just in case an animal comes up from behind! The adventure was about to begin. 

Into the wild!

Each of the trucks drove in a different direction in search of "the Big Five" (lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, rhino) and the drivers communicated with each other via radio if they found something exciting.  The first animals we saw were some hippos lying next to a pond.  I'll be honest, they were so far away that it just looked like two big (fat) rocks.  

We then saw some baboons and monkeys in a field nearby and some other four-legged deer type animals.  (I'm not up-to-date with the African animal species so bear with me...) 

Monkeys, warthogs, and other things - all coexisting in nature!

A little further along, we caught a couple giraffes and some more four-legged animals.  Even though giraffes are ugly up close, I think they look really majestic from a distance.  By this point, any fears I had of not seeing enough animals were dissipating.  They were everywhere!

The real excitement began when the trucks got further into the park.  One of the groups spotted an elephant, so we sped over to their location.  I didn't even see the elephant when we first arrived (no joke!).  It was only after the ears started flopping that I realized it wasn't just a big boulder behind some trees.  

In a zoo, it's really easy to see the animals because all you have to do is search for the one thing moving in each pen.  In the wild, it is completely different.  I never appreciated camouflage  before this trip but I am finally realizing how well the animals can blend in to their surroundings.  

Camouflaged?  I think so...

Before long, another radio announcement was coming in...this time for a lion on the hunt!  The trucks came from all different directions to find the lion creeping around in search of a mama warthog and her two babies.  As the hunt moved, so did the trucks. We all sat with our cameras ready but, in the end, there was no attack.  It was actually really interesting to watch the warthog protecting her babies and herding them into safety.  

The lion is on the prowl!

Just as the sun was setting, we came across two white rhinos.  Let me tell you - they were absolutely huge (no camouflage there!).   With the rhino viewing, our 'big 5' tally had reached 4.  Even though we missed out on the leopard, I think all the other animals more-than made up for it.    

After a long afternoon of searching for animals, we filled up on meat with a traditional braai (BBQ) for dinner.  Then, we set out again for a night ride.  By this point, the weather had gotten a lot colder and our sight lines were limited to only what was lit up from the spotlights on the trucks.  My sense of fear was slightly heightened because you couldn't see anything until it was really close.  We did manage to see a few more animals but it was nothing compared with the vast array of species that were out during the day. 

I wonder if any of this meat was roaming around on the reserve recently?

  

Reflecting on the overall safari, it far exceeded my expectations.  Seeing animals in their natural environment is really exciting because you never know what you are about to witness.  I was completely captivated by the entire experience and it was a lot of fun to play 'hide and seek' with the animals.  I don't know if I would ever book a week-long safari but I would highly recommend the experience to anyone else who has the chance to be in Africa.  It's nothing like the zoo.    

Soweto

With only one full weekend in each city, I need to plan my sightseeing carefully so I can see as much as possible.  Does this planning ever happen?  Absolutely not. 

Saturday morning, I woke up late, ate breakfast, went to the gym, and stopped at the concierge desk for a map and some tour options.  The concierge told me: "A tour of Soweto just left 10 minutes ago.  If you are ready to leave right now, we can take you to meet up with them."  I had no idea what Soweto was but figured it must be worth seeing, so I agreed. 

What I didn't realize was that "taking me to meet up with them" involved speeding down the highway at the speed of light until we could catch the tour guide.  As we whizzed past downtown, my driver started pointing out buildings instead of looking at the road.  I was too busy watching my life pass before my eyes to really appreciate the sights, but I did manage to snap a picture of the Coke building.  Apparently nothing else is worth seeing. 

Downtown Johannesburg

We eventually met up with the tour guide just in time for me to hear about the history of Soweto (short for: south western townships).  These townships were established under the apartheid government at the turn of the century, when blacks were forcefully relocated here.  As we drove through the streets, I could not believe what I was seeing: tiny accommodations that looked more like outhouses than homes.  In fact, my hotel room is probably bigger than most homes that are occupied by entire families.  

One of the poorest areas of the Soweto.  

We stopped at a busy square and got out of the car to walk around.  Even though I was completely out of place, I felt welcomed by everyone who I encountered.  This commercial zone reminded me of many I had been before in other countries, where people set up little makeshift shops alongside one another.  Some were selling produce and various snacks, while others had DVD's or cheap clothing.  There were even people who had set up informal hair salons on the side of the road with nothing more than a chair and a series of photos representing hairstyle options.  It was an organized chaos, but the mood was positive.  

Shopping in Soweto

Just another quiet day in Soweto

We then drove through some more residential areas - this time hostels, where single men would live in giant rooms with 18-20 beds.  I couldn't imagine living in such close quarters with so many other people - it's no wonder there has been such a history of violence. 

Next on the tour, I discovered a shebeen (unlicensed bar) and a really cool bungee jump that was set along the top of a defunct nuclear power plant.  Apparently this was the site of a challenge when 'The Amazing Race' came to Joburg.  I wanted to jump but I felt badly asking the others to wait.  

Anyone care for a jump?

I also learned about public transportation in Joburg.  There is a series of 15-passenger vans that drive along the city in various directions.  If you see one coming, you are supposed to hold up your hand with a gesture to indicate the direction you want to go.  If the driver is also going in that direction, he will stop and pick you up.  There is no schedule or set route.  It is amazing to me that a major city like Johannesburg is stuck with such a primitive public transportation network. 

Here are the hand signals if you ever want to take a public bus in Joburg

The highlight of the tour was the apartheid museum, which was located near the former homes of both Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu.  (Soweto is the only place in the world to have raised two nobel prize winners).  Throughout the tour, it became quite apparent that despite government efforts to segregate the population, there is no way to suppress the human spirit.  The history of racial segregation in South Africa is so much deeper than I imagined and it is clear that many people still live in very challenging environments.   

A tribute to those who gave their lives for freedom, peace, and democracy

Returning to the hotel, I felt a wide range of emotions.  I was saddened by the history of racial segregation in South Africa and also in my own country.  I was encouraged by the mental stamina exhibited by people like Nelson Mandela, Hector Peterson, and so many others who promoted progress.  Most of all, I was grateful for the many opportunities I have been given to succeed in life.  My success is certainly a result of hard work but it also would not have been possible without access to the best education and a strong support network.  This day has certainly broadened my view of the world and, for that, I am grateful.