Soweto

With only one full weekend in each city, I need to plan my sightseeing carefully so I can see as much as possible.  Does this planning ever happen?  Absolutely not. 

Saturday morning, I woke up late, ate breakfast, went to the gym, and stopped at the concierge desk for a map and some tour options.  The concierge told me: "A tour of Soweto just left 10 minutes ago.  If you are ready to leave right now, we can take you to meet up with them."  I had no idea what Soweto was but figured it must be worth seeing, so I agreed. 

What I didn't realize was that "taking me to meet up with them" involved speeding down the highway at the speed of light until we could catch the tour guide.  As we whizzed past downtown, my driver started pointing out buildings instead of looking at the road.  I was too busy watching my life pass before my eyes to really appreciate the sights, but I did manage to snap a picture of the Coke building.  Apparently nothing else is worth seeing. 

Downtown Johannesburg

We eventually met up with the tour guide just in time for me to hear about the history of Soweto (short for: south western townships).  These townships were established under the apartheid government at the turn of the century, when blacks were forcefully relocated here.  As we drove through the streets, I could not believe what I was seeing: tiny accommodations that looked more like outhouses than homes.  In fact, my hotel room is probably bigger than most homes that are occupied by entire families.  

One of the poorest areas of the Soweto.  

We stopped at a busy square and got out of the car to walk around.  Even though I was completely out of place, I felt welcomed by everyone who I encountered.  This commercial zone reminded me of many I had been before in other countries, where people set up little makeshift shops alongside one another.  Some were selling produce and various snacks, while others had DVD's or cheap clothing.  There were even people who had set up informal hair salons on the side of the road with nothing more than a chair and a series of photos representing hairstyle options.  It was an organized chaos, but the mood was positive.  

Shopping in Soweto

Just another quiet day in Soweto

We then drove through some more residential areas - this time hostels, where single men would live in giant rooms with 18-20 beds.  I couldn't imagine living in such close quarters with so many other people - it's no wonder there has been such a history of violence. 

Next on the tour, I discovered a shebeen (unlicensed bar) and a really cool bungee jump that was set along the top of a defunct nuclear power plant.  Apparently this was the site of a challenge when 'The Amazing Race' came to Joburg.  I wanted to jump but I felt badly asking the others to wait.  

Anyone care for a jump?

I also learned about public transportation in Joburg.  There is a series of 15-passenger vans that drive along the city in various directions.  If you see one coming, you are supposed to hold up your hand with a gesture to indicate the direction you want to go.  If the driver is also going in that direction, he will stop and pick you up.  There is no schedule or set route.  It is amazing to me that a major city like Johannesburg is stuck with such a primitive public transportation network. 

Here are the hand signals if you ever want to take a public bus in Joburg

The highlight of the tour was the apartheid museum, which was located near the former homes of both Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu.  (Soweto is the only place in the world to have raised two nobel prize winners).  Throughout the tour, it became quite apparent that despite government efforts to segregate the population, there is no way to suppress the human spirit.  The history of racial segregation in South Africa is so much deeper than I imagined and it is clear that many people still live in very challenging environments.   

A tribute to those who gave their lives for freedom, peace, and democracy

Returning to the hotel, I felt a wide range of emotions.  I was saddened by the history of racial segregation in South Africa and also in my own country.  I was encouraged by the mental stamina exhibited by people like Nelson Mandela, Hector Peterson, and so many others who promoted progress.  Most of all, I was grateful for the many opportunities I have been given to succeed in life.  My success is certainly a result of hard work but it also would not have been possible without access to the best education and a strong support network.  This day has certainly broadened my view of the world and, for that, I am grateful.