Casablanca, week 1

I think it’s funny that whenever I mention I am in Casablanca, the first thing most people think about is the 1940’s movie.  I have never seen that movie, so my only frame of reference was the long-weekend trip I took to Marrakech during my MBA program. 

During that trip, Sean and I stayed in the medina, which is an absolute maze.  Honestly, I have never seen anything like it.  Small alleys twisting in every direction, none of which are marked, and all are filled with young people who want to confuse you even more by telling you that certain alleys are “closed”. (Here's a video of us exploring the maze...)

On our first day there, we tried finding Jemaa el-Fnaa (the main square) and it literally took the entire day.  I am normally really good at navigating my way through new places but I lost all sense of direction there.  When we finally found it, the sights and sounds were worth all the hassle…well, most of the hassle.  We tried snail soup, fresh-squeezed juices, bargained for $5 tee-shirts (which shrunk to half the size after one wash), and took pictures with monkeys climbing all over us.  I was actually really impressed with the relentless sales approach of the shop owners.  They could be selling absolute rubbish, but they still manage to confidently offer a price that is 10 times its value. 

Snails...Yum! 

Fresh squeezed orange juice!

Dinner time!

After a couple days of urban madness, we took a tour into the Atlas Mountains to expose ourselves to a less chaotic side of Morocco.  We still had to bargain with a mountain guide and firmly decline all offers for faux “handmade” crafts but the scenery was really beautiful.  

Hiking in the Atlas Mountains

My least favorite souvenir from that vacation was food poisoning, which made for an awful flight home.  I only blame myself, though, for thinking it was alright to order chicken when I saw multiple places that kept raw meat sitting under the hot sun with absolutely no refrigeration. 

Don't eat meat that looks like this!

Casablanca, I told myself, would be totally different than Marrakech.  For starters, I am staying at the nicest hotel in the city, which reduces my fear of unsanitary food.  I arrived in my room and immediately peered out the window as I always do at a new hotel.  The views of the old medina, with the Hassan II Mosque in the background, were stunning.  The first thing I noticed was the sheer number of satellite dishes on the rooftops.  This is a city full of TV enthusiasts! 

View from my room: Old Medina and Hassan II Mosque

I turned on my computer to check e-mail and change time zones, but something confused me.  The computer said Casablanca time was 3pm, but both my watch and the clock in my room said it was 4pm.  I went to the gym and the clocks on at least two machines agreed to my computer.  I needed a tiebreaker, so I called the front desk.  As it turns out, the time zone (as well as the work week) was changed to match France because of the strong business relationships between the two countries.  

My office for the two weeks in Morocco used to be an Italian restaurant.  I even got to work in a booth and I spent at least a few minutes of each day imagining how hilarious this restaurant must have been when it was open.  One of the fun parts of my job is that I never know where I will be working.  Sometimes, the office is a gem.  Other times, it’s less than comfortable. 

My office in Casablanca

I have to give major credit to local staff in Casablanca.  They integrated me seamlessly and never made me feel like I was an annoyance.  Every day, I had lunch with senior management, who nicely spoke English around me since my French is very rusty. The staff canteen was remarkably good and I love how Moroccan cuisine integrates cinnamon into so many dishes.  It adds such a unique dimension to the flavor palette and is something I will definitely try to use more when I start cooking for myself again. 

During the weekend, I spent quite a bit of time exploring the city.  The streets reminded me of other places in North Africa but some areas were much nicer than I would have expected.  I was also surprised by the high prices in brand-name shops, specifically Zara, which produces a lot of its clothes right here in Morocco.  I didn’t realize that their clothes actually have to be exported, then re-imported (and taxed).  Contrary to better judgment, I did what any local Moroccan would do…bought a “Zara” shirt on the street and paid $12 instead of $75! (I know, the sleeves will probably fall off next time I wear it).   

Before going back to the hotel, I decided to walk through the medina to compare it with Marrakech.  My first impression is that it looks exactly the same: Overwhelming volumes of merchandise, displayed at the front to lure you into the shops.  The items for sale included branded clothes, shoes, household goods, leather bags, and food.  The big difference is that the shop owners were much less pushy in Casablanca. 

There is a lot of stuff happening at this shop

Then came the exciting part:  A guy came up beside me and said that I had stepped on his foot.  When I apologized and looked down, I noticed that my credit cards were in his hand.  He immediately started running and, without thinking, I chased after him.  For about a quarter mile, we wove through the tiny alleys as the adrenaline pumped through my body.  I eventually caught up to him, grabbed the back of his shirt, and started yelling at him in French to give me my stuff back!  He dropped the credit cards on the ground and I released my grip on his shirt.  I grabbed my cards off the ground and jogged back to the main shopping area with my hands in both pockets. 

On my way back to the hotel, I realized how incredibly stupid I was to run after him.  I could have been killed and no one would have even noticed.  I just could not let a cowardly pickpocket run away with my stuff, knowing that I was probably fast enough to catch him.  The thought of danger just did not cross my mind at that moment.   

Sunday morning, I took a taxi out to the Hassan II Mosque for a tour of the immense structure.  I am really intrigued by Islamic architecture because the detail is just amazing.  Most mosques don’t allow non-Muslim visitors, so I like to take advantage of those that do.  The minaret at Hassan II is actually the tallest religious structure in the world at 210 meters (60-stories).  I was amazed at the facts relating to its construction, which cost 585 million Euro and was financed entirely by mandatory, police-enforced public donations.  The grandeur of the structure stands in stark contrast to the surrounding neighborhoods.  It really goes to show the power of the government and the role of religion in the lives of Moroccans. 

Hassan II Mosque: The main hall can fit 25,000 people

Here's the neighborhood that sits just across the street from the mosque

After seeing the mosque, I continued the religious theme of the day by stopping next at the Casablanca Cathedral.  It is actually quite beautiful from the outside, but I almost started laughing when I entered to find a makeshift art museum.  I don’t think any religious services are happening at this cathedral!

Looks like a cathedral from the outside...

The inside doesn't look like any cathedral I have seen before!

I noticed a series of tents set up adjacent to the cathedral so, of course, I had to see what was happening.  Lots of people were watching from the perimeter because the entrance was blocked off by security/police. Inside were just a few people in suits and Minnie Mouse and one of the seven dwarfs.  Wait, what?!? Yup, that’s right…Minnie Mouse and a dwarf were just hanging out with the businessmen. 

I still don't know why Minnie and a dwarf were at this event!

So far, this was shaping up to be one of the funniest trips I have taken in a long time...