Nightlife

Nightlife is such an important element of any city's identity.  In some places that I have visited, the atmosphere of the best restaurants and bars is a sharp contrast to daily life.  This new perspective really helps to give me a more well-rounded opinion of the city.  Unfortunately,  I don't always get the chance to go out much because I am usually traveling on my own.  So, whenever local staff members offer to take me somewhere, I always jump at the opportunity.  

Some of my best memories from this year involve nights out with the staff.  In Casablanca, I discovered a completely different side of the city when a couple people took me out for my last night.  Daily life in Casablanca felt chaotic and even dangerous, but the nightclub we visited felt like an upscale bar in South Beach.  I couldn't have been more pleasantly surprised. 

Mexico and South Africa, on the other hand, offered nightlife that was exactly what I would have imagined.  In Merida, the city center was filled with people (mostly families) - eating carnivalesque food, buying giant balloons for their kids, and enjoying simple food at local bars that had probably been family-owned for generations.  Johannesburg (particularly Rosebank) offered its "best" bars/restaurants in a shopping mall. The nightclub I visited (Maxi's) was filled with a very diverse crowd - smoking cigars and dancing to a live african band.  

I was excited when one of the girls in Amman asked what I was doing after work on Tuesday.  We started the evening by exploring the historic sites at night.  While we were walking around near the Roman Amphitheater, one of the security guards asked me where I was from.  Normally I say that I'm Canadian or Swiss to avoid any anti-American rhetoric, but I had to be honest since I was around two people who actually know my background.  

The guard started telling me a little about Amman's history and then took me to his friend's antique shop (of course) to see if anything appealed to me.  I looked around politely for a couple minutes without picking up a single item because I didn't want to show particular interest in anything!  I think it's funny that anywhere I go, people assume that Americans will buy whatever junk you show to them.   

Here we are, showing off our "guns" in downtown Amman!

We continued walking through the downtown area a bit more and passed lots of small shops selling mostly low-quality clothing, shoes, and bags.  I couldn't believe how busy the city was at 11pm on a random Tuesday night.  We eventually made it up to Rainbow Street (a popular area for outdoor bars and cafes) and sat at one of the outdoor tables of a restaurant for some fresh juice.   

Most people were just sitting quietly at the tables, flanked by hookah pipes (aka: hubbly bubbly) and talking to each other only occasionally.  The scene was laid-back and quiet...similar to what I have experienced in other Middle Eastern cities and completely different from bars in Europe or North America, where everyone is drunk and yelling just to hear each other.  

The waiter laid out plates of Arabic desserts on our table, which are sickly sweet, but so good.  My favorite is called Awamat, which is basically a tiny ball of deep fried dough...crunchy on the outside and filled with a doughy, syrup-filled center.  I literally kept saying: "ok, this is my last one."  So much for all my hours in the gym this week...

Here's what Awamat look like.  

The next morning, I was dragging a little because of insufficient sleep but happy that I had a chance to go out the night before.  As I was checking my e-mail and easing into the day, my main contact person peeked his head into my office and asked: "What are you doing tonight?"

I told him that I had no plans and he invited me to a home-cooked Iftar dinner at his home.  My entire mind was immediately filled with fear.  I hate being invited to dinner because it doesn't give me any element of food choice.  As an extremely picky eater, this is dangerous when I also have to balance not offending the host, who is rightfully proud of the food that they have made.  

There has been more than one occasion where I have had to create a totally awkward moment by honestly admitting that I can't eat the food that has been presented to me because it contained one of my "no way" ingredients (mustard, mayonnaise, ketchup, cream, and/or italian style tomato sauce).
  
I literally spent half the day thinking about the foods that I have seen at other Iftar buffets and calculating my chances of disaster.  Fortunately, I couldn't think of any main courses that would be off-limits.  My fingers were crossed. 

When I arrived, I felt a little awkward at first because I don't often eat dinner with families that I have never met - especially in their homes.  We just started talking about all sorts of random things and before I knew it, the food was about to be unveiled.  To my relief, everything on the table was edible: hummus and falafel, some sort of green bean and beef salad, and lamb shank with rice and almonds.  I could tell that the lamb was marinated in a yogurt, but I could tolerate that. 

They literally piled the food on my plate as if I hadn't eaten in weeks and I had to constantly say: "oh, that's more than enough!"  The wife had also made this rich sauce for the meat, which was a little too much to handle.  Unfortunately, she noticed when I put only a small amount on the meat and commented: "Oh, you don't like the sauce?  That's ok...I know it is probably not popular for people who aren't used to our food."   

I responded, "no, I love it!" and reluctantly added another spoonful.  I guess all mothers are the same when it comes to feeding people.  After all the excessive guilt eating, I was very full but also proud of myself for trying to eat all that was served to me.     

After dinner, we went out to the balcony for some tea and more conversation.  Even though I'm never a big fan of "homey" things, it really was nice to experience such an authentic family atmosphere during Ramadan.  I figured it was my decision when to call it quits, so I looked at my watch around 11pm and said that I should probably get back to the hotel.  

"Oh, we haven't had dessert yet!" (of course we were having dessert...)

Before I knew it, I could hear the bubbles of something deep frying in the kitchen.  A few minutes later, I was presented with katayef, which as basically pancakes that were soaked in syrup, stuffed with cheese or walnuts, deep fried, and covered in more syrup.  Clearly, another healthy way for me to end my day.  

Katayef - stuffed with either walnuts or cheese

I was asked which one I preferred and I had to admit that I was given two walnut ones, which were "very good".  Well, apparently this was unacceptable because I was forcefully given a THIRD piece to try the cheese version.  By this point, I just wanted to explode.  Yes, they were good, but I just cannot eat this much rich food in one day.  

In retrospect, the entire night was really a great experience.  I am appreciative, not only of the invitation, but also to the wife of my contact for cooking such an elaborate meal.  I tasted food that I never ate before (and may never eat again), and I learned more about family life in Amman during Ramadan. 

As I try to categorize nightlife in Amman, it definitely can be grouped with the other cities that were not so surprising to me.  I expected a very low-key nightlife and a family-centric culture.  Jordan is more liberal than other Middle Eastern cultures, but it is not to the extreme where people are getting drunk in traditional western bars and abandoning their religious traditions.  It's not a city where I could ever see myself living but it was a great place to spend two weeks. 

Funny things in Jordan

I am always fascinated by countries that do things differently than where I grew up.  Since arriving in Jordan, there have been multiple times when someone has told me something that I thought was a joke.  To my surprise, most of these so-called jokes are actually for real.

For example, I ordered a piece of cake for dessert at a restaurant the other night and my waitress asked: "How much weight do you want?"  

I must have looked at her like she is crazy.  Before I could even say anything, she asked: "500 grams? 1 kilo?" 

How do I even answer that question?? I barely know how grams convert to pounds and I certainly don't know how much a normal size piece of cake should weigh!   I told her to just give me whatever most people would order.   

As I was waiting for my dessert to arrive, I started thinking that people in the United States would not be so fat if they had to order their desserts by the pound.  We all know that cake is not good for you but I'm sure people would think twice if they realized how much weight they were adding to themselves!  It's almost like ordering food based on the number of hours at the gym you would need to burn it off.  Needless to say, I didn't quite enjoy my cake as much as I had hoped...

Another thing that made me laugh was when I was asking the Director of Engineering about whether the building does any recycling.  He said that the city does not have a recycling program, so the only option is to hire people to sit in the trash room and manually separate the rubbish.  Then, an outsourced company will haul the recycled materials away for another fee.  

I thought to myself: "this must be a long way of saying that we don't recycle because it's not worth the effort."  Well, I just about fell over when we walked through the building and I actually saw 2 people sitting in the trash room, digging through the dumpsters for recyclables.  Apparently you can hire people to do anything in Amman!

A few hours later, I was discussing staffing with the Director of Human Resources and I asked whether there has been an influx of Syrian people looking for work in Jordan as a result of the continued violence there.  She said that there is a refugee camp near the Syrian border that is now the 5th largest city in Jordan!  I guess this one isn't as much funny as it is remarkable.  From an American perspective, it would be like a new city of refugees emerging with the population of Philadelphia!  

Even shopping hours are totally different in the Middle East - especially during Ramadan.  I went to the mall after work one day last week and was disappointed to see that all the shops were closed.  The security guard told me that they would open again at 8:30pm.  Sure enough, he was right.  By midnight, the shops were filled with people.   

One thing I have learned in this job is that I cannot assume anything about life around the world.  It's easy to avoid asking questions because of things I take for granted based on where I grew up.  However, in a country like Jordan, the list of difference can be even longer than the list of similarities.   

Petra

I just got back from one of the most amazing places I have ever visited.  From the moment I arrived in Jordan, everyone kept telling me that I must visit Petra.  My excitement was muted when the hotel told me that tours leave at 6am and that Petra is a 3.5 hour drive from Amman.  However, I decided to suck it up and see what all the hype is about.  

My hotel offered a private driver for the entire trip, which I thought was a little excessive (and a lot boring).  So, I decided to book a group tour instead.  

On the ride to Petra, I met 3 graduate students from Columbia University who are doing a summer project with US Aid to study water availability across Jordan.  They have been interacting with locals and it was so interesting to hear about all the things they have learned from living here.  Our conversations made me realize how I travel in such a bubble because I am always staying in 5-star hotels.  I don't experience the power and water shortages, challenges of food shopping, and gridlock traffic that locals face on a daily basis.  

Thanks to my new friends, the ride didn't feel long at all.  Before I knew it, the bus was approaching the city of Petra and the views were really quite interesting:

View from the bus as we descended upon Petra

From the moment we arrived in Petra, we were greeted with vendors selling all sorts of souvenirs.  I purchased my ticket (which, by the way, is 50 times the price that a local would pay), and was handed a map of the city.  As soon as I went through the gate, I was then faced with scores of people offering horse rides that are "included in the price of the ticket".  It's a good thing I did research in advance and learned that these "free" horse rides do not include the ridiculous tips that they demand at the end.  

Aside from the tipping factor, I wanted to enjoy the scenery along the way.  Already, I was thinking "wow, this place is so beautiful and serene". 

Before even arriving at the main gate, I was treated to the Obelisk Tomb

Most historic sites that I have visited do not allow people to touch anything, but not Petra.  I climbed right up the site of the mountain and went inside.

Here's a view from the top level of the Obelisk Tomb 

Little did I know, these tombs were just scratching the surface of all that Petra has to offer.  In order to reach the archaeological site, you pass through a 2-kilometer long path that weaves between giant mountains.  It's no wonder this place went undiscovered until the 1800's.  

Here's one of the more open parts of the path leading to Petra

...and one of the more narrow parts of the path. 

After meandering my way through this long path, I finally reached the end, which was signaled by a partial view of the treasury - one of the most recognized buildings in Petra.  

View of the treasury from the path

I stood in front of the Treasury and just admired for at least 10 minutes, wondering just how people were able to carve such an amazing masterpiece out of a MOUNTAIN!  This feat would be impressive even today, let alone 2,000 years ago and with only basic tools.  Wow. 

View of the treasury from up-close

By the time I was offered about 10 donkey/camel rides and cheap silver bracelets for my "girlfriend", I decided it was time to move along.  Tucked into the mountains were smaller facades, which must have been the homes of people who lived here.  Even just the basic facades were impressive to see. 

High-occupancy part of the city?? 

I looked up to my left and saw people climbing the mountain so I pulled out my map to see where they may be heading.  I started laughing when I noticed that I had been given a German map (for some reason, people around the world constantly think that I am German).  

My goal of the trip was to visit the Monastery, which involves a climb of over 800 steps.  I figured this must be the way, so I started ascending. 

I was convinced that these people were heading to the monastery...

On the way up, I kept stopping to admire the views:

Birdseye view of what looked to me like the "main square"

The views just kept getting better and better: 

The views from even higher on the climb

Finally, after what seemed like about 800 steps, I reached a clearing and some pretty impressive panoramic views.  But no Monastery.  Instead, I had hiked up to a point where the people made sacrifices to the gods.  There was a small "pit" and an adjacent altar.  It was very cool to see, but my first thought was: "I have to climb another 800 steps somewhere else to see this famous Monastery?"  This day was providing quite the workout!

Looking down at the city from the altar at the top of the mountain

At the altar, I found this strange woman just sitting on the top of a cliff playing a recorder and singing awful (spooky) music.  I hope she wasn't putting a spell on me.  I took a few more pictures and returned to the base of the mountain for the next destination. 

I passed the amphitheater and several other places that looked like public gathering areas.  To be completely honest, they were just as impressive as the ruins in Athens and Rome.  I was already loving this entire experience. 

The amphitheater was pretty neat

Hadrien Gate: Fun to imagine what the original structure looked like

By this point, the ground was basically like walking on the beach and my ankle was already giving me grief.  The sun was also out in full-effect, but I was determined to see more.  I finally reached the base of another mountain with a sign that said: "Monastary: 2.5-3 hours".  Here goes nothing...

The climb to the monastery officially begins here!

Again, the entire climb offered just as many impressive views as the first mountain.  It's times like this where I just think: "How lucky am I to see all these amazing sites around the world?"  Fortunately, the climb did not take anywhere near 2.5 hours but it was definitely taxing.  I'm more of a flat-surface kind of guy. 

I had to get proof that I was actually here. 

Throughout the climb, there were several people who had set up little kiosk-type shops - all selling the same junk.  Their famous tagline was "No charge for looking!"  They did, however, charge when I asked one woman to take my picture.  

Finally, I made it to the top and this monastery was totally worth the effort.  Absolutely stunning.  There was a little restaurant with views of the building, so I stopped for lunch and just stared at the building the entire time.  It was actually kinda fun to watch people trying to climb in and out of the doorway, since it is about 1.5 meters above the ground.  

This, in my opinion, is the most impressive building in Petra

After lunch, I noticed a little shack on the top of another hill with a sign announcing "the best view".  After climbing this high, what's another little hike?  I can't leave without seeing the best view!  

I need to admit: It really was the best view!  I had to get a picture of the shack in its surroundings as proof: 

This is where you need to go for "the best view" in Petra.  

By this point, I was already pretty exhausted but I still had to descend the mountain, see the last few impressive facades that I missed, and make the 2+ kilometer walk back to the bus.  

I got one last picture of myself in front of the monastery and started the hike back down. 

Throughout the day, I was offered countless rides on horses, donkeys, and camels.  Not only did I decline every offer, but I actually told some owners that I don't like how they treat their animals.  Each and every one of the animals looked completely exhausted and I can't even imagine sitting on a donkey as it climbs up 800+ steps.  To make matters worse, I kept seeing the owners taking the animals on joyrides and even racing with each other as they whipped them repeatedly.  I don't want to belabor the point, but the poor treatment of animals definitely tainted the experience for me. 

Don't ride the animals in Petra!  It broke my heart to see how they were treated

My last stop for the day was to the set of buildings across from the roman amphitheater that I missed as I was rushing to get to the monastery.  Of course it involved another small climb, but nothing nearly as strenuous as was I had just experienced.  

Urn Tomb - yet another impressive structure in Petra

Unlike most of the other structures, this one had a series of archways that were not actually carved out of the mountain.  I was able to walk through the back part of each of the arches and there was a staircase that took me to the main entrance of the tomb.  Similar to the others, the interior was very simple.  Just a big open space.  

By this point, I was tired and completely satisfied with all the sites I was able to see.  It was so cool to be able to climb around on all the mountains, to go inside any doorway that looked fascinating, and to imagine what life must have been like for people who lived here two thousand years ago.  

Petra is absolutely a must-see for anyone coming to Jordan.  But beyond that, I would say that the country of Jordan should be higher on people's lists of places to visit.  With some of the oldest recorded traces of humanity, Jordan is like a playground for anyone interested in history.  The trip to Petra was long and exhausting but also fulfilling beyond words.  The pictures that I took are a nice reminder of my experience but they do not even begin to capture the amazing sites that exist here.  

Amman, Jordan

Whenever I arrive in a new city, I have to set my computer's clock by clicking my location on a map.  Usually, I know approximately where I am.  Today, not so much.  First, I clicked on somewhere in Russia. Then, I clicked on a random city in Turkey.  "Wow, this is embarrassing," I thought to myself.  I focused for a minute and then remembered that I am near the Sinai peninsula.  Finally, I found Amman.  That's when I realized: I know absolutely nothing about Jordan!

I arrived at the new airport (which, by the way, is a thousand times nicer than the old one I had to connect in last year on my way to Saudi Arabia).  First stop: currency exchange (they gave me a terrible rate).  Second stop: visa desk.  The two people in front of me tried paying with credit card and neither of their cards worked. I think the currency exchange people have some sort of deal worked out with the visa people.  

On the way to the hotel, I noticed a whole lot of nothing.  Tents, animals, dirt, and trees.  Very slanted trees.  It was like they were all bowing towards mecca.  The driver told me the slant is because of all the strong winds.  Wow... Chicago is windy but at least the trees still stand up straight!  Anyhow, enough about the slanted trees. 

Once we approached the downtown area, my attention shifted to all the hills.  I'm talking like San Francisco hills.  The infrastructure actually seemed pretty advanced, too, with lots of underground highway passes to handle the traffic.  

Arrival at the hotel was a little intimidating because they don't allow any cars near the front door and everyone is forced to walk through a pre-screening building that rivals airport security.  Talking to the front desk agent, I learned that the enhanced security is the result of a bombing that happened at the hotel in 2005, which killed 9 people.  Yikes!  It's always cool to be staying at a hotel that is frequented by foreign diplomats, but I suppose that also brings an element of risk.  

Safely in my room, I looked out my window at yet another beautiful view.  Now that I finally can identify my location on a map, it's time to do some research to determine what Jordan has to offer.  Here's to my next two weeks of discovery...    

View from my hotel room in Amman

Dubai

Before I could start my next project, I had to make a quick stop in Dubai.  I flew on Emirates for the first time and can totally see how they won Airline of the Year.  The list of languages spoken by the flight crew was ridiculous, food was actually decent, and the in-flight entertainment had tons of variety.  They also offer mobile phone service, which is cool in theory but not when the guy next to you is talking on his phone (in Arabic) for half the flight.  He should have at least allowed me to eavesdrop!

Walking out the front door of my hotel this morning felt like I was stepping into an oven.  How do people manage to live here all summer?  I was literally sweating just standing still!   Riding in the taxi, I noticed very few people outside.  The ones brave enough to face the heat often used umbrellas or newspapers to block the direct sunlight.  Air conditioning is a basic necessity in this part of the world... Even the bus stops have air conditioning!

You know it's hot when the bus stops have aircon!

I decided to check out the Dubai Mall, which is the world's largest shopping mall.  It is like an indoor city: ice skating rinks, waterfalls, a "souk" area, cinema, and every store I could imagine.  In the Emirates, it's illegal to eat in public during fasting hours of ramadan, so all the restaurants had gates and curtains covering the food.  Another interesting sign I noticed at the entrance is that you can't wear anything that exposes your knees or shoulders.  Despite the ethnic diversity and the rapid growth of the city, Dubai remains very conservative.  

Water conservation isn't a concern at the Dubai mall

Adjacent to the mall is the tallest building in the world - Burj Khalifa.  I stopped outside to take a couple pictures and admire the grandeur of the building, but I didn't have enough time to venture to the top.  By the way, I couldn't even fit the entire building into my camera lens.  

Tallest building in the world!

Speaking of growth in Dubai, there are cranes everywhere you look.  The architecture is amazing and I could spend hours just admiring all the interesting buildings.  Dubai is really smart to invest in infrastructure while the oil boom is helping the economy so that they can retain relevance once the demand for oil starts to decline.

Some of the construction happening adjacent to Burj Khalifa

I decided to take the metro back to the hotel because I was so impressed that Dubai has such an advanced public transportation system.  My friends would all consider me crazy for taking the metro but I think it is a fun way to see how people in a city go about their normal lives.  Dubai's metro has only been operational for a few years, so I wasn't surprised to see that everything is still new and fresh.  

The trains don't require drivers (at least none that I could see).   I also noticed that the riders are mainly lower working-class people but that is probably just because riding public transportation is not as convenient as driving.  To be fair, I wouldn't want to walk in a suit from the metro station to any office (which is why I hopped in a taxi as soon as I got off at the stop nearest to my hotel).    

Here's the view of downtown Dubai from inside the metro train  

Once I got back to the hotel, I finally had the opportunity to check out the view and walk around a little outside.  Everything about Dubai is over-the-top, including my hotel.  

Here's my hotel, as seen from the pool. 

Here's the view from my room.  You can see the Burj Khalifa in the background 

I really wish I could have spent more time in the city - mostly because I have lots of friends from my MBA program working here that I wasn't able to see in my quick, 24-hour trip.  However, I am positive this won't be the last time I get to visit Dubai in my lifetime.  As the city continues its quest to be bigger, better, and more elaborate than anything else that exists in the world, I will be even more excited to see what they can offer.  

Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

Dar es Salaam is one of the more unusual places I have visited.  The economy is developing rapidly but the country is still plagued by poor infrastructure and lack of basic necessities such as clean water and reliable power.  There are no real "sights" to see in Dar es Salaam, yet the city offers a unique education to anyone who is willing to open their eyes and ask questions.    

From a work perspective, it was just like any other property visit.  The people were nice to me, the hotel was comfortable, and the food was very good.  My main contact person was also one of the most awkward people I have ever met.  Before I talk more about Tanzania, I need to share a few funny conversations with this guy because they represent an integral part of my memories from the trip.

The first morning during our 10AM coffee break:

Me: "Wow, I am amazed that everyone works 6 days per week here! Is that typical for workers in Tanzania?"

Him: "hehehehe"

Me (confused): "So, I am guessing that means no? (smile)"

Him: "hehehehe"

A few minutes later, I was still struggling for conversation so I asked a question based on a news story I overheard on the tv: 

Me: "So, is everyone entitled to free health care in Tanzania?"

Him: "Yes, up to a certain amount"

Me: "Oh interesting.  So what will happen if they have a major health problem that requires additional care? Do they have to pay out-of pocket?"

Him: "yes"

Me: "Wow.  What about older people with lots of health problems? Do they just go bankrupt?"

Him: "awkward smile"

On Friday, we were discussing my weekend plans: 

Me: "I am thinking of visiting Zanzibar tomorrow"

Him: "I will find you a hotel"

Me: "Oh, thanks for offering but I think I will just spend the day there and come back in the evening"

Him: "No, you must stay in a hotel"

Me: "I know it would be nice to spend a night there, but I travel so much that I prefer to just leave my things here and go for the day"

Him: "Don't worry. I will find a nice place for you to stay."

Me: "Actually, maybe I will not go to Zanzibar.  It sounds like too much of a hassle."

...and that was the end of my plan to visit Zanzibar.  

Instead, I started the weekend with a long run at the gym and dim sum in the sushi restaurant.  I couldn't believe I was eating dim sum in Tanzania, but it was actually really good.  When I looked at the dessert menu, I was intrigued by water chestnut dumplings.  The waiter told me it was like a pudding, which intrigued me even more.  I had to try it. 

When the dessert came out, it was actually just balls of water chestnuts, dyed purple, and emerged in coconut milk. This was definitely not a dessert, nor was it a pudding. 

These are water chestnut dumplings...

On Sunday, I decided to take a city tour with one of the drivers.  Our first stop was at the fish market.  It was absolute mayhem and the smell was almost intolerable.  Some vendors were sitting on benches and scraping the scales off the fish.  Others were frying tiny fish in a pan for immediate sale.  None were doing anything to clean the grime off their workstations or to keep the fish at a hygienic temperature amidst 90-degree heat.  I was the only tourist within eyesight, so I decided not to take any pictures.  Maybe that was a wise decision because I want to retain my love of seafood.  

The tour continued along the waterfront, where ambassadors all live in a row of beautiful houses.  It was fun to see how some of homes match the architectural styles of the countries they represent.  Two that particularly stood out to me were the American ambassador, who lives in a colonial-style brick house, and the UAE ambassador, who lives in a palatial compound surrounded my palm trees.  

Our next stop on the tour was to the American embassy, which looked more like a giant Costco warehouse.  The driver mentioned that security is always tight and that everyone in the city wonders why the Americans have such a large compound.  I'm wondering that myself...

We then visited the University of Dar es Salaam, which was founded in 1970 and is the oldest university in Tanzania.  That's right, the oldest university in the entire country has only been around for 43 years.  

I asked the driver if university is free and he said that tuition is on a sliding scale, depending on academic performance.  I think this system is fundamentally flawed because it essentially affords education to only the most academically gifted students.  My guess is that the students with the highest scores are also the ones with the most stable and financially-capable families, so this system will only exacerbate the country's stratified society.  Oh, and in case you are wondering, I took a look at the 'Facts & Figures' page and females only represent 35% of the student body. 

On the way back to the city center, we went past some neighborhoods where working-class people would live.  It was crowded but not as bad as I had expected.  I was actually impressed by the city bus system, which seems to be well-utilized. The name of the end stops are painted on each bus, which makes them easy to identify but impossible to swap routes.

A typical city bus in Dar es Salaam. 

On the way back to the hotel, I asked about public perception of President Obama and the driver did not hesitate in affirming that he is hugely popular.  The locals consider Obama "one of them" and believe that he will always look out for the best interests of Africa.  The support was evident in the many posters on every street corner, welcoming Obama on his recent visit to Dar. 

One of many signs to welcome President Obama

On Monday morning, my contact greeted me as he always does: "Hello Mister Chris.  Did you have breakfast this morning?" Normally, I respond with a generic "Yes, it was delicious", to which he says "ok" and quickly walks away.   

Even though I always eat breakfast, I told him that I hadn't eaten yet (just to see how he would respond).  

His response: "Oh, ok" (before quickly walking away). 

This guy is so strange.  Fortunately for me, he is fasting for Ramadan this week, so I don't have to make awkward conversations with him every day during the coffee break.

Throughout the week, I was able to learn even more about life in Dar es Salaam, just by asking questions about anything that interested me.  Here are some of the more interesting things I discovered:

1) The salaries paid to most employees are barely enough to survive and the majority of people have no savings whatsoever.  How do I know?  The list of salary advances was absolutely massive.  It's a slippery slope when companies start approving so many salary advances, but I didn't feel right about critiquing this policy.  I think it's very sad that someone can have a full-time job and still not get paid enough to live comfortably. 

2) When I asked who receives checks that come in the mail, I was told that no one would ever send checks in the mail because the checks wouldn't arrive at the destination.  Instead, most offices employ a "collector", who physically picks up payments from client offices. 

3) I was reviewing fire safety records and the General Manager told me that the city does not have any fire stations.  Insurance companies mitigate risk by outsourcing fire protection to third-party companies but none of these firemen are equipped to fight fires above the 5th floor of a building.  (Lucky for me, I'm staying on the 5th floor of my hotel!)

I really hope we don't have a fire in my building!

4) I noticed a collection account on the books that was called "sale of empties".  When I asked what this means, I was told that clean water is scarce for people in substandard housing (i.e., homes of our employees), so the hotel sells used buckets to the employees so they can gather water and carry it to their homes.  

5) Everyone knows that Tanzania is one of the most corrupt countries in the world.  Can't they at least PRETEND to have professional security guards? 

These security guards look more like high school detention students.

I think 10 days was more than enough time in Dar es Salaam.  To be honest, I would never recommend this city as a tourist destination but I hear that other parts of Tanzania are nice to visit.  Even though I am saddened by the reality of life for so many hard-working people in Dar es Salaam, I am inspired by their ability to provide such professional service to hotel guests.    

  

Impressions of Tanzania

My first thought in Tanzania: Wow, this place is humid!

My second thought in Tanzania: I need to race ahead of the other 250 people in my plane so I'm not sitting in the visa line all night. 

I rushed to fill in the arrival documents and got into line behind the "visa" window.  Seemed logical enough, right?

5 minutes later, I discovered that I was standing with people who had already submitted their applications.  I apparently needed to be in the other line at the unmarked window.  <<Palm to face>>

After waiting some more, I got to the front of the line and submitted my application, along with US$100 cash for the visa.  It's a good thing I did research beforehand because of course there is no currency exchange place in immigration.  

What about the people who didn't have US dollars?  They had to walk through passport control to withdraw Tanzanian Shillings from the ATM, then exchange the shillings for US dollars at the adjacent bank.  Keep in mind, these people are already through passport control but they don't actually have a visa.  Am I the only one who sees multiple problems with this set-up?? 

Anyhow, back to the visa.  After you submit your documents at the first window, you wait with the group in front of the "visa" window.  Eventually, a person at the window calls your name (obviously pronouncing it wrong) and you approach the window to scan your fingerprints.  Then, you wait some more.  Finally, a third person emerges from behind the window and calls out the names of the people who can collect their passports. 

As I was waiting, I noticed a sign on the wall that said: "If someone requests a bribe to enter Tanzania, call _____".  I started laughing to myself.  Why would anyone need to bribe an immigration officer when you can just walk right through passport control simply by pretending you need cash?

Maybe it's the MBA in me, but I just wanted to redesign the country's entire immigration process.  

On the way to the hotel, I asked the driver how far it is from the airport.  He told me it was 12 kilometers.  In the US, this means 10-15 minutes.  In Tanzania, this means 1 hour.  I literally could have jogged to the hotel faster.  At least I had fun things to look at because the city comes alive at night.  

By the time I arrived at the hotel, I didn't even want dinner. I just wanted a dehumidifier and the Ritter chocolate bar with marzipan that was enticing me from the minibar.  While I was at it, the Toblerone bar looked good too.  Geez, I'm such a healthy eater. 

The next morning, I looked out the window - wow, I'm definitely in a developing country.  Some people were walking on the street with things balanced on their heads, others are pushing carts filled with who-knows-what, and some cars were mixed in for good measure.  

Here's the view from my room.  Pretty nice, right?

Here's a more "zoomed-in" version of the street.  What are they pushing??

Then, I looked down.  Two people were watering the roof.  

Gotta make sure the roof stays green! 

I needed to restore a sense of normalcy to my life, so I went to breakfast and feasted on an egg-white omelette with smoked salmon and a berry fruit salad.  Without even trying, I was eating a red, white, and blue breakfast for 4th of July.  Of all the places I could be for Independence day, it's not bad to be spending it in a country that requires US dollars for visas and in a hotel that had hosted President Obama and former president Bush just a few days prior.   Happy Birthday, America! 

Goodbye, South Africa

Well, it has been an exciting 5+ weeks in South Africa but I'm ready to move along.  I'll admit - the last couple days of working from my room have actually been really nice.  No alarm clock, no strict schedule, and attire that includes only a tee shirt and shorts.  Maybe a work-from-home job should be in my future?  

Even though I was supposed to be starting my next property review remotely, a lot of time was spent on rearranging my upcoming travel schedule (again).  With all the political instability in Egypt, my plans to visit our properties there were cancelled and I was told that I could take my break a month early.  To be honest, my initial reaction was mixed.  I had already started tentatively planning things with the expectation of being home in early September.  However, I will gladly accept an earlier break.  

As I was planning my new schedule, I realized that my break was coinciding perfectly with Drum Corps finals week in Indianapolis...  So many questions ran through my mind: Could I possibly fly from Qatar to Indiana?  Would I even be awake for the show with all that jet lag?  Would this officially make me the biggest band geek ever? (Ok, I already know the answer to that one...)

Within a 24-hour period, I received schedule approvals from all my contacts and found a flight that wouldn't require me to pay too much out-of-pocket for this stop in Indianapolis.  How could I resist?   I may be the first person in history to fly from Qatar to Indiana, just for a night of drum corps.  

By this point, all disappointment in the schedule change is completely gone and I am looking forward to some well-deserved time off that is finally confirmed.  Well, 99.9% confirmed.  (There are never any guarantees in my job).  

As I was packing my suitcase, I decided that it would be fun to watch my last sun rise in South Africa from the coast.  I set my alarm clock and laid out my running gear so I could incorporate the sunrise into my morning workout. 

When I left the hotel, it was still really dark.  I jogged carefully along the edge of the resort to avoid any missteps and turned onto the trail.  At this point, the daylight was just starting to emerge, which helped my visibility a lot.  Then suddenly, out of nowhere, a deer ran right in front of me (at least I think it was a deer - or some other massive, scary animal).  I literally stood still for 5 minutes with my heart beating like crazy, debating whether to keep going or to turn around.  I'm not a fan of wildlife, so I decided that it would be best to just turn back and run like the wind.  

I was disappointed that I couldn't watch my final sunrise from the coast, but I tried seeing the silver lining: at least I got my heart rate up!  Next stop, Tanzania...