Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

Dar es Salaam is one of the more unusual places I have visited.  The economy is developing rapidly but the country is still plagued by poor infrastructure and lack of basic necessities such as clean water and reliable power.  There are no real "sights" to see in Dar es Salaam, yet the city offers a unique education to anyone who is willing to open their eyes and ask questions.    

From a work perspective, it was just like any other property visit.  The people were nice to me, the hotel was comfortable, and the food was very good.  My main contact person was also one of the most awkward people I have ever met.  Before I talk more about Tanzania, I need to share a few funny conversations with this guy because they represent an integral part of my memories from the trip.

The first morning during our 10AM coffee break:

Me: "Wow, I am amazed that everyone works 6 days per week here! Is that typical for workers in Tanzania?"

Him: "hehehehe"

Me (confused): "So, I am guessing that means no? (smile)"

Him: "hehehehe"

A few minutes later, I was still struggling for conversation so I asked a question based on a news story I overheard on the tv: 

Me: "So, is everyone entitled to free health care in Tanzania?"

Him: "Yes, up to a certain amount"

Me: "Oh interesting.  So what will happen if they have a major health problem that requires additional care? Do they have to pay out-of pocket?"

Him: "yes"

Me: "Wow.  What about older people with lots of health problems? Do they just go bankrupt?"

Him: "awkward smile"

On Friday, we were discussing my weekend plans: 

Me: "I am thinking of visiting Zanzibar tomorrow"

Him: "I will find you a hotel"

Me: "Oh, thanks for offering but I think I will just spend the day there and come back in the evening"

Him: "No, you must stay in a hotel"

Me: "I know it would be nice to spend a night there, but I travel so much that I prefer to just leave my things here and go for the day"

Him: "Don't worry. I will find a nice place for you to stay."

Me: "Actually, maybe I will not go to Zanzibar.  It sounds like too much of a hassle."

...and that was the end of my plan to visit Zanzibar.  

Instead, I started the weekend with a long run at the gym and dim sum in the sushi restaurant.  I couldn't believe I was eating dim sum in Tanzania, but it was actually really good.  When I looked at the dessert menu, I was intrigued by water chestnut dumplings.  The waiter told me it was like a pudding, which intrigued me even more.  I had to try it. 

When the dessert came out, it was actually just balls of water chestnuts, dyed purple, and emerged in coconut milk. This was definitely not a dessert, nor was it a pudding. 

These are water chestnut dumplings...

On Sunday, I decided to take a city tour with one of the drivers.  Our first stop was at the fish market.  It was absolute mayhem and the smell was almost intolerable.  Some vendors were sitting on benches and scraping the scales off the fish.  Others were frying tiny fish in a pan for immediate sale.  None were doing anything to clean the grime off their workstations or to keep the fish at a hygienic temperature amidst 90-degree heat.  I was the only tourist within eyesight, so I decided not to take any pictures.  Maybe that was a wise decision because I want to retain my love of seafood.  

The tour continued along the waterfront, where ambassadors all live in a row of beautiful houses.  It was fun to see how some of homes match the architectural styles of the countries they represent.  Two that particularly stood out to me were the American ambassador, who lives in a colonial-style brick house, and the UAE ambassador, who lives in a palatial compound surrounded my palm trees.  

Our next stop on the tour was to the American embassy, which looked more like a giant Costco warehouse.  The driver mentioned that security is always tight and that everyone in the city wonders why the Americans have such a large compound.  I'm wondering that myself...

We then visited the University of Dar es Salaam, which was founded in 1970 and is the oldest university in Tanzania.  That's right, the oldest university in the entire country has only been around for 43 years.  

I asked the driver if university is free and he said that tuition is on a sliding scale, depending on academic performance.  I think this system is fundamentally flawed because it essentially affords education to only the most academically gifted students.  My guess is that the students with the highest scores are also the ones with the most stable and financially-capable families, so this system will only exacerbate the country's stratified society.  Oh, and in case you are wondering, I took a look at the 'Facts & Figures' page and females only represent 35% of the student body. 

On the way back to the city center, we went past some neighborhoods where working-class people would live.  It was crowded but not as bad as I had expected.  I was actually impressed by the city bus system, which seems to be well-utilized. The name of the end stops are painted on each bus, which makes them easy to identify but impossible to swap routes.

A typical city bus in Dar es Salaam. 

On the way back to the hotel, I asked about public perception of President Obama and the driver did not hesitate in affirming that he is hugely popular.  The locals consider Obama "one of them" and believe that he will always look out for the best interests of Africa.  The support was evident in the many posters on every street corner, welcoming Obama on his recent visit to Dar. 

One of many signs to welcome President Obama

On Monday morning, my contact greeted me as he always does: "Hello Mister Chris.  Did you have breakfast this morning?" Normally, I respond with a generic "Yes, it was delicious", to which he says "ok" and quickly walks away.   

Even though I always eat breakfast, I told him that I hadn't eaten yet (just to see how he would respond).  

His response: "Oh, ok" (before quickly walking away). 

This guy is so strange.  Fortunately for me, he is fasting for Ramadan this week, so I don't have to make awkward conversations with him every day during the coffee break.

Throughout the week, I was able to learn even more about life in Dar es Salaam, just by asking questions about anything that interested me.  Here are some of the more interesting things I discovered:

1) The salaries paid to most employees are barely enough to survive and the majority of people have no savings whatsoever.  How do I know?  The list of salary advances was absolutely massive.  It's a slippery slope when companies start approving so many salary advances, but I didn't feel right about critiquing this policy.  I think it's very sad that someone can have a full-time job and still not get paid enough to live comfortably. 

2) When I asked who receives checks that come in the mail, I was told that no one would ever send checks in the mail because the checks wouldn't arrive at the destination.  Instead, most offices employ a "collector", who physically picks up payments from client offices. 

3) I was reviewing fire safety records and the General Manager told me that the city does not have any fire stations.  Insurance companies mitigate risk by outsourcing fire protection to third-party companies but none of these firemen are equipped to fight fires above the 5th floor of a building.  (Lucky for me, I'm staying on the 5th floor of my hotel!)

I really hope we don't have a fire in my building!

4) I noticed a collection account on the books that was called "sale of empties".  When I asked what this means, I was told that clean water is scarce for people in substandard housing (i.e., homes of our employees), so the hotel sells used buckets to the employees so they can gather water and carry it to their homes.  

5) Everyone knows that Tanzania is one of the most corrupt countries in the world.  Can't they at least PRETEND to have professional security guards? 

These security guards look more like high school detention students.

I think 10 days was more than enough time in Dar es Salaam.  To be honest, I would never recommend this city as a tourist destination but I hear that other parts of Tanzania are nice to visit.  Even though I am saddened by the reality of life for so many hard-working people in Dar es Salaam, I am inspired by their ability to provide such professional service to hotel guests.