Hakone, Japan

Japan's idea of a resort vacation involves laying naked in a pool of hot water.  

The tradition is called "onsen" and these mineral-rich hot springs are the biggest tourist attraction in Hakone. This mountainside resort town is surprisingly convenient to reach from Tokyo, which makes it really popular for both local and foreign tourists.

From Tokyo, I took a 90-minute train ride in the "RomanceCar". I was reluctant to ride a train with such a suggestive name, but it lived up to the high standards that Japan's rail system is known for. As we raced through the countryside, I enjoyed the views of rural Japan. 

I hope there is no romance on this car...

I got off the train at a town called Odawara, which is larger than the village of Hakone and easier to get taxis. As expected, the taxi driver did not speak any English, so I was happy that I had asked one of the train employees to write the address of my hotel in Japanese on a business card. I always get a little nervous when the taxi driver does not appear confident in our destination, but I was relieved to reach the hotel without any problems 20 minutes later. 

The hotel felt like an exclusive ski resort (minus the skiing). There was a fire burning in the lounge, and people sitting around in robes while they drank red wine. No one was dressed formally, and several people were even wearing the traditional wooden sandals that were in pairs at the doorway of every guest room.

Looking down on the lobby lounge at the early hours of the morning.

 

Traditional wooden slippers were available in all guest rooms

The hotel rooms were beautifully designed

In my guest room, there was a card with instructions of how to use the onsen, which I studied carefully before I went down to the spa. The last thing I needed was to do something wrong while I was completely naked. 

The pools are only about the depth of a bathtub, and everyone is expected to rinse off before submerging in the water. Once clean (and naked), you lie down in the water and cover your head with a wet wash cloth. There is not much to look at, other than a greenhouse of plants on the opposite side of the onsen. Obviously no one would dare look left or right, because there may be other people next to you.

Lying in the water invoked a strange, almost mildly breathless sensation. I started being able to relax after a few minutes, but I never felt totally at ease. Perhaps it was the minerals in the water, or maybe it was just my lack of appreciation for this type of relaxation. I stayed in the water for about 10 minutes before feeling as though I had put in my time. When I returned to the locker room, I saw an older woman cleaning the room without any acknowledgement that she was surrounded by naked men. At this point, I just laughed to myself. I needed to get out of there. 

Japanese people believe that the vast array of minerals in the water help to heal aches and pains, and even treat certain illnesses. Maybe I'm too uptight, but I just couldn't relax enough to buy into the hype. The experience felt as though I was bathing with a bunch of strangers.

Fortunately, there are several other things to do in Hakone that I really enjoyed. The Hakone Ropeway is a large gondola that takes tourists 1.4 kilometers up the mountain where onsen water can be found. On the way up, you can even see the steam coming up from the mountain. 

Steam coming up from the mountainside (as seen from the gondola)

Steam is even present at the top of the mountain

At the summit, there is a visitor center with restaurants, shopping, and other small exhibits. I was also spellbound by the amazing views of Mt. Fuji from just about everywhere. While at the summit, we walked along this path that took us through a peaceful stream, past some religious fountains, and up to a hot pool of onsen water that is used to make hard boiled eggs. In this part of Japan, everything is about celebrating onsen.

Volcanic gas can be dangerous...

Here's our group in front of a scenic lookout point

This is where the eggs are boiled in onsen water

The hard boiled eggs are by far the most popular purchase among tourists who are mesmerized by the black shells. I was told that the minerals in the water cause the shells to turn black, although the inside part was completely normal (white and yellow), and without any noticeable difference in taste.

Eggs boiled in onsen water

Before heading back down the mountain, we tried some black ice cream, which is purely a gimmick for tourists (no onsen water was used to make the ice cream). Our mouths turned black, but it was completely worthwhile. 

Eating black ice cream (tasted like vanilla)

Stunning views from the gondola

The entire excursion does not last for more than a few hours (including lunch), but it is definitely worth seeing if you make it all the way to Hakone. Although the onsen culture is not my preference, I found it quite interesting to observe the popularity of this tradition among locals. 

Another reason for anyone to visit Hakone should be the food. Tokyo may be home to the most Michelin-starred restaurants in the world, but the Japanese appreciation of fine dining certainly extends to this mountain resort as well. I am obsessed with Japanese food, and my expectations were surpassed at almost every meal. I just love how much detail and effort goes into every dish. In Japan, food is art. 

Sushi dinner on my first night in Hakone

It was almost too beautiful to eat...almost.

I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Hakone because I felt as though I finally got a taste of real Japan. The town has a very unique atmosphere that you simply can not find in the big cities. Even my hotel room felt like a Japanese home (well, what I would imagine a Japanese home to look like), including the famous Japanese toilets, which I wish would become more popular in other countries. I don't think I will be rushing back any time soon to experience onsen again, but I really enjoyed having the opportunity to explore a more relaxed side of Japan. I can't wait to discover more of this amazing country.

2015 Tokyo Marathon

Earning a spot in one of the World Marathon Majors is not an easy feat.  Boston requires all runners to achieve strict qualifying times, and the other five are so popular that they have introduced a lottery process. I applied for the Tokyo Marathon last summer, and I couldn't believe when I learned that over 300,000 people had applied for only ~30,000 spots. With a 10% acceptance rate, this race is harder to get into than some Ivy League schools!

In anticipation of the race, I followed the official Facebook page. They did not post much in English, but I can't really blame them since only a small minority of runners come from outside Japan. Mail correspondence, on the other hand, was top-notch. I received a detailed race brochure several weeks before the trip, which even included a map of the city and subway system to plan my sightseeing around Tokyo.

Any good marathon is preceded by big expo, and Tokyo's was among the best I had ever seen. Of course it was well organized (this is Japan, after all), but more importantly, it made me proud to be running in such an important event. The first area after packet pick-up was an introduction to all the World Marathon Majors. Then, there was a history of the Tokyo Marathon (which is incredibly only in its 9th year). 

The race-branded souvenir section was quite popular, although most of the items just looked like overpriced throwaways to me. There were also a lot of little games and partner promotions that I could not understand because they were all happening in Japanese. The lower level of the expo was like a shopping mall for running gear. I was in retail paradise.

Standing in line to enter the Tokyo Marathon Expo

Getting excited to run through the streets of Tokyo!

After visiting the expo, I spent much of the afternoon and evening just walking through the city and experiencing the sensory overload that is Tokyo. From the subway map to the street signs - everywhere you look is a feast for the eyes. 

This is the inside of an appliance store. Signs everywhere!

A busy street in Shinjuku area

My pre-race dinner was some yakitori (meat on a stick) and a giant bowl of ramen in the cool area of tiny restaurants near the Shinjuku train station. The pedestrian-only alley is called "Memory Lane", and each restaurant only seats about 8 people at a bar, tended by the owner/chef. I loved the relaxed atmosphere, which was a huge contrast to all the big-city action that surrounded it. With sufficient levels of carbohydrates in my system, I was well-prepared for my first race in Japan.

One of the restaurants on Memory Lane (photo courtesy of Silentskylark)

 

Outside the restaurants on Memory Lane

My hotel was only one block from the starting line, so race morning felt much more relaxed. I love being able to prep for my race from the comfort of a warm hotel room, while everyone else was lined up at the portable toilets. The weather was drizzling, which further enhanced my satisfaction of being able to stay inside.

Looking down at the warm-up area from the comfort of my hotel

At the last possible moment, I gathered my belongings and made my way to the starting corrals. Unfortunately, due to the 2013 Boston Marathon bombing, there were enhanced security measures in place that included metal detectors and bag-checks for all runners. We were even prohibited from bringing liquids into the warmup area. 

I debated whether to keep my jacket for the race because the threat of rain was over 50%, and also because I am now intolerant to the cold weather after living in Hong Kong. In the end, I decided to leave the jacket on. I even brought running gloves and a scarf with me. Overkill? Perhaps, but it was a long wait before the race started, and I knew that I would feel really cold at the end after depleting my energy supply. 

The waiting time in the starting corral felt long (particularly in comparison with my rushed start in the HK marathon a month ago), but I loved it when the cannons went off with confetti and the Roppongi Men's Choir started singing as we passed the starting line.

As always, the first kilometer was very slow and crowded, but people soon started to spread out in the wide roads (smart route planning).  Before too long, I started noticing a lot of really fun hats. Where Hong Kong will always be remembered as the "costume" marathon, I think I will remember Tokyo as the "hat" marathon. 

I will also remember the incredible crowd support throughout the entire route. Unlike some marathons that take runners way outside the city, this one remains in the urban limits. Of course Tokyo is such a sprawling metropolis, but I appreciate a city that is unafraid to shut down prime areas for a marathon to take place. 

Prior to this marathon, the most crowd support I have ever seen is in Boston. It felt like even more people were lining the roads in Tokyo, which is a huge morale boost. Initially, I was surprised to read that the race attracts 1.7 million spectators, but it seems possible when you consider that the course is so long. For comparison purposes, I looked up the statistics and it said that Boston Marathon attracts 500,000 spectators. 

Here I am, running through a street lined with enthusiastic spectators

Leading the pack of runners (not really)

My goal for this race was to qualify for Boston 2016, and I knew that would only happen if I could maintain a running pace throughout the entire distance. Somewhere around the 10 mile mark, I reluctantly passed the 3:00 pace group, which made me nervous because I don't think I am in 3-hour shape these days. 

I don't consider Tokyo to be a very beautiful city, but it was fun to pass some of the major sites along the course, such as the Imperial Palace, the Tokyo Tower, and the Asakusa Kaminarimon Gate (which also happened to be a turn-around point). 

Here I am in front of the Asakusa Kaminarimon Gate 

By around the 32-km mark, I was starting to feel really depleted of energy and I was not looking forward to motivating myself through another 10k. At that point, I started looking for some food at the refreshment points and I was ecstatic to see M&M's in a giant bin. 

I never really stop running as I pick up food & drink, so I just plunged my hand into the bin and grabbed the biggest handful I could manage. As I aggressively swept by, I could hear one of the cute volunteers express her surprise with a giggle. I greedily shoved about half of the handful into my mouth and immediately regretted the decision. M&M's are one of my favorite snack foods, but they are not the best idea when I am mildly dehydrated and running a race in cold weather. It felt like a real effort to swallow the chocolaty glob in my mouth, but I knew that I needed the energy boost. 

By around the 38-kilometer mark, I was really starting to feel pain and my legs just could not move at the pace I needed them to. It's times like this where my lack of training is apparent, but I kept pushing. I started feeling cold again, so I put my gloves and scarf back on. 

Trying to hold my composure, but I was over it by this point

All I wanted to do was walk, so I succumbed briefly to get a bit of relief around 40 kilometers. At that point, I saw some balloons bob past me and I saw that it was the 3-hour pace group. Part of me was supremely disappointed that I would not log another sub-3:00 time, but the rational part of me realized that I was literally pushing myself to the limit.

With that spirit, I convinced myself to start running again - even if it was just a jog. My knee was hurting, so I just wanted to end this thing. The amazing volunteers really made a difference at this point in the race, as they enthusiastically cheered for us all like we were superstars. 

Distracted by something...at this point, it could have been anything

The last 0.195 kilometers felt like an eternity, but the finish line was the most incredible site of the entire race (not because it was anything spectacular, but just because it marked the end of this torture)!

Crossing the finish line in Tokyo

I crossed the finish line with a very safe Boston qualifying time, and I knew my net time would be at least a minute less than what was shown on the clock. I may not have beaten my personal best, but I reached my goal of a Boston qualifier and I was proud of my effort throughout the entire race. 

The post-race organization was really impressive, but more importantly, the volunteers were BEYOND incredible. I love anyone who volunteers their time at a race but these people were truly something special. In a country where not many people speak good English, I was shocked to hear so many people congratulating me with good pronunciation and such genuine smiles on their faces. 

Everyone's belongings were lined up with military precision

Everyone says that the people make all the difference in life, and that was absolutely the case in Tokyo. The city (in my opinion) is nothing special, but the spectators and the volunteers made this experience so special for me. One group of volunteers even allowed me to ride on an express shuttle bus back to my hotel (which should have only been for people who purchased the tour packages) - probably because they could see that I was unable to bend my right knee.

I got back up to my room, took a long shower, and looked out my window at the views of the vast city surrounding me. When I applied for this race back in August, the race day seemed like it would never come. But now, 6 months later, here I am living in Asia and taking a weekend trip to Japan for my 11th marathon. 

Views of Tokyo from my hotel

Whenever I finish a race, it doesn't take long for the feeling of accomplishment to supersede any memories of pain. Years from now, I will remember the funny hats, the amazing volunteers, and the overall thrilling experience of running in the only World Marathon Major in Asia.

My performance in the 2015 Tokyo Marathon

Jeddah, Saudi Arabia

There are many countries that recognize the economic benefits of tourism. Saudi Arabia is not one of those countries.

The visa process was more complicated and frustrating than anywhere else I have visited before. I felt like I was on a treasure hunt in order to prepare all the documents that were required. The embassy only accepts applications for a two-hour period each morning, and they declined my first application because I had applied for a “businessman” visa rather than a “commercial visit” visa. What’s the difference?  I have no idea. I think they just wanted me to pay twice. I was finally approved on the evening before my flight.

In contrast to the arduous visa process, my flights on Qatar Airways and Cathay Pacific were fantastic. I was upgraded on both segments, I finally got to watch Gone Girl (which I have been anxiously awaiting for months now), and the food was actually edible.

The new airport in Doha is beautiful

My arrival in Jeddah was just as nerve-wracking as the visa process. Despite being expedited to the terminal with the other business class passengers, I was 12^th in line at passport control. In most countries, that would not be a big problem. In Saudi Arabia, it means waiting 1.5 hours. The immigrations officers constantly took breaks between passengers and it was impossible to predict when they would return to their seats. After what felt like an eternity, I finally passed through immigration, picked up my luggage, and found my driver by 3AM. I was exhausted.

They don't mess around with drugs in Saudi Arabia!

This was my second time traveling to Jeddah and I was happy to be staying at the same luxurious oasis. Even though almost 3 years had passed since my last visit, it seemed as though nothing had changed.  Walking through the hotel, I felt like I was somewhere exclusive and special. It is hard to explain, but people have an air of superiority and a confident swagger that is uniquely "Saudi".

Beautiful views of the Red Sea from my hotel

Hotel lobby at night

During the weekend, a local colleague offered to take me to the old city (called "al-balad"). It honestly felt like I was stepping into a movie set. The architectural style, tiny shops, and street vendors were so cool to see. Watching everyone in traditional attire further added to the faux-cinematic experience. In a world where tourists seems to be omnipresent, I feel fortunate to visit a place that has remained immune to the influx of Western travelers. It almost makes the visa hassles seem worthwhile. 

One of the streets in the old balad of Jeddah

Shop owners wait for customers on a Saturday afternoon

Produce vendors in al-balad

My colleague wanted me to get a custom-tailored dish dash, so he took me to his favorite shop for a personal measurement. The precision with which the tailor noted my sizes was really quite impressive. I did not expect this careful attention to detail for such a seemingly-simple garment. I am not sure when I will ever wear it again in the future, but I am excited to be getting such a unique souvenir from Saudi Arabia.

Custom tailoring

More textiles and prayer mats for sale

Meat hangs boldly from the window of the butcher shop

I don't really associate the Middle East with historical buildings, but the architectural style in al-balad clearly reflects a time when modern conveniences like air-conditioning did not exist. Just look at the small windows with heavy shutters to keep out the midday sun. 

Traditional architecture keeps out the intense sunlight

Even the open-air markets had a roof to shield against the intense sunlight:
 

Shoppers stroll along the open air market

As we walked through the market, I noticed men gathering around a table that looked to be full of sticks. I was told by my colleague that these "sticks" were actually used as toothbrushes in historic times because of a slight minty flavor beneath the bark. I tried using one, but I did not feel like my teeth were getting any cleaner...

Men shop for traditional "toothbrushes"

One thing I have learned from my travel in the Middle East is that dates are serious business. No, not girlfriend/boyfriend dates...I'm talking about the carbohydrate-loaded delicacies that grow on palm trees. I passed several shops that specialize in dates, and learned that the variety is much greater than my simple palate can differentiate.

Dates seem to be the national food of Saudi Arabia

Visitors to Saudi Arabia need to realize that nearly all activity grinds to a halt during prayer times. Shops close for 20 minutes so the employees can pray, and the religious police actually patrol the streets to ensure that everyone is following the moral code. Last time I visited Jeddah was during Ramadan, which was even more intrusive to daily life. I was not allowed to eat in public during fasting hours, and the only real activity around the city took place during the overnight hours. 

One night, my colleague and I were waiting in the car for a restaurant to re-open, and I asked him what would happen if people were in the middle of a movie at a cinema during a call to prayer (thinking that they would stop the movie briefly). I was surprised when he responded that it would not be an issue. Why? ...because cinemas are banned in Saudi Arabia.

Prayer time in Saudi Arabia

Building in al-balad has a speaker for the daily calls to prayer

With so many forms of entertainment banned in Saudi Arabia, it is no surprise that food is such an important element of social culture. Throughout my 2-week stay, I ate more than I normally do in a month. Buffets are commonplace and I found it almost impossible to eat a meal with less than 3 courses.

There were several team dinners during my trip. One night, the entire Finance team was invited for a formal dinner hosted by one of the new staff members. He literally rented out an entire banquet hall and brought in enough food to serve a village. It was such a nice gesture, and I can now say that I have eaten camel meat (it tasted like pot roast).

The generous hosts for our banquet-style dinner

The banquet hall was the size of a football field

I would be remiss to recap the trip to Saudi Arabia and not mention anything about women's rights. Without even realizing it, I did not speak to one single women throughout my entire trip. I suppose it is not surprising, considering that women are not allowed to go out in public alone, drive a car, or even travel without the permission of their male guardian. Restaurants have separate dining areas for men and women, fitness facilities are gender-specific, and even wedding receptions are separate. Could you imagine getting married and not even celebrating alongside your new spouse? It's such a huge cultural difference. 

Lecture halls in universities are also separated by gender, and male professors are prohibited from lecturing face-to-face with their female students. Instead, they lecture to a video camera and the image is broadcast on a screen for the girls to take notes. 

Even the abayas that women wear make them appear like mere shadows, alongside their sheik-like husbands. From what I hear, Saudi women are starting to challenge the status quo, but I do not expect anything to change in the near future.

Women are almost invisible in Saudi Arabia

In a country where fuel is cheaper than water, the seemingly-endless supply of liquid gold has allowed people to become complacent. Work ethic is simply not at the level it needs to be for Saudi Arabia to compete in the global economy. The government is starting to recognize this, so they have funded many scholarships for students to study internationally. They have also implemented a requirement for all local companies to hire at least 35% Saudi workers. 

To achieve this requirement, a lot of companies are putting ghost employees on the books, even though the majority of Saudi "employees" don't even come to the office. In fact, the HR director said that a lot of candidates actually ask if they need to come to work after they have been hired. This would be a ridiculous question in most countries, but it is completely justified in Saudi Arabia.

One of the best parts of my job is being able to learn about such a wide variety of cultures around the world. Even though I experienced only a small aspect of the Saudi lifestyle, I found it completely fascinating. The place where I grew up is such a sharp contrast to the atmosphere that I witnessed over the past two weeks, but I loved embracing their world for just a short period of time. 

Acclimating to the Saudi culture on my last day in the office