Japan's idea of a resort vacation involves laying naked in a pool of hot water.
The tradition is called "onsen" and these mineral-rich hot springs are the biggest tourist attraction in Hakone. This mountainside resort town is surprisingly convenient to reach from Tokyo, which makes it really popular for both local and foreign tourists.
From Tokyo, I took a 90-minute train ride in the "RomanceCar". I was reluctant to ride a train with such a suggestive name, but it lived up to the high standards that Japan's rail system is known for. As we raced through the countryside, I enjoyed the views of rural Japan.
I got off the train at a town called Odawara, which is larger than the village of Hakone and easier to get taxis. As expected, the taxi driver did not speak any English, so I was happy that I had asked one of the train employees to write the address of my hotel in Japanese on a business card. I always get a little nervous when the taxi driver does not appear confident in our destination, but I was relieved to reach the hotel without any problems 20 minutes later.
The hotel felt like an exclusive ski resort (minus the skiing). There was a fire burning in the lounge, and people sitting around in robes while they drank red wine. No one was dressed formally, and several people were even wearing the traditional wooden sandals that were in pairs at the doorway of every guest room.
In my guest room, there was a card with instructions of how to use the onsen, which I studied carefully before I went down to the spa. The last thing I needed was to do something wrong while I was completely naked.
The pools are only about the depth of a bathtub, and everyone is expected to rinse off before submerging in the water. Once clean (and naked), you lie down in the water and cover your head with a wet wash cloth. There is not much to look at, other than a greenhouse of plants on the opposite side of the onsen. Obviously no one would dare look left or right, because there may be other people next to you.
Lying in the water invoked a strange, almost mildly breathless sensation. I started being able to relax after a few minutes, but I never felt totally at ease. Perhaps it was the minerals in the water, or maybe it was just my lack of appreciation for this type of relaxation. I stayed in the water for about 10 minutes before feeling as though I had put in my time. When I returned to the locker room, I saw an older woman cleaning the room without any acknowledgement that she was surrounded by naked men. At this point, I just laughed to myself. I needed to get out of there.
Japanese people believe that the vast array of minerals in the water help to heal aches and pains, and even treat certain illnesses. Maybe I'm too uptight, but I just couldn't relax enough to buy into the hype. The experience felt as though I was bathing with a bunch of strangers.
Fortunately, there are several other things to do in Hakone that I really enjoyed. The Hakone Ropeway is a large gondola that takes tourists 1.4 kilometers up the mountain where onsen water can be found. On the way up, you can even see the steam coming up from the mountain.
At the summit, there is a visitor center with restaurants, shopping, and other small exhibits. I was also spellbound by the amazing views of Mt. Fuji from just about everywhere. While at the summit, we walked along this path that took us through a peaceful stream, past some religious fountains, and up to a hot pool of onsen water that is used to make hard boiled eggs. In this part of Japan, everything is about celebrating onsen.
The hard boiled eggs are by far the most popular purchase among tourists who are mesmerized by the black shells. I was told that the minerals in the water cause the shells to turn black, although the inside part was completely normal (white and yellow), and without any noticeable difference in taste.
Before heading back down the mountain, we tried some black ice cream, which is purely a gimmick for tourists (no onsen water was used to make the ice cream). Our mouths turned black, but it was completely worthwhile.
The entire excursion does not last for more than a few hours (including lunch), but it is definitely worth seeing if you make it all the way to Hakone. Although the onsen culture is not my preference, I found it quite interesting to observe the popularity of this tradition among locals.
Another reason for anyone to visit Hakone should be the food. Tokyo may be home to the most Michelin-starred restaurants in the world, but the Japanese appreciation of fine dining certainly extends to this mountain resort as well. I am obsessed with Japanese food, and my expectations were surpassed at almost every meal. I just love how much detail and effort goes into every dish. In Japan, food is art.
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Hakone because I felt as though I finally got a taste of real Japan. The town has a very unique atmosphere that you simply can not find in the big cities. Even my hotel room felt like a Japanese home (well, what I would imagine a Japanese home to look like), including the famous Japanese toilets, which I wish would become more popular in other countries. I don't think I will be rushing back any time soon to experience onsen again, but I really enjoyed having the opportunity to explore a more relaxed side of Japan. I can't wait to discover more of this amazing country.
The tradition is called "onsen" and these mineral-rich hot springs are the biggest tourist attraction in Hakone. This mountainside resort town is surprisingly convenient to reach from Tokyo, which makes it really popular for both local and foreign tourists.
From Tokyo, I took a 90-minute train ride in the "RomanceCar". I was reluctant to ride a train with such a suggestive name, but it lived up to the high standards that Japan's rail system is known for. As we raced through the countryside, I enjoyed the views of rural Japan.
 |
| I hope there is no romance on this car... |
I got off the train at a town called Odawara, which is larger than the village of Hakone and easier to get taxis. As expected, the taxi driver did not speak any English, so I was happy that I had asked one of the train employees to write the address of my hotel in Japanese on a business card. I always get a little nervous when the taxi driver does not appear confident in our destination, but I was relieved to reach the hotel without any problems 20 minutes later.
The hotel felt like an exclusive ski resort (minus the skiing). There was a fire burning in the lounge, and people sitting around in robes while they drank red wine. No one was dressed formally, and several people were even wearing the traditional wooden sandals that were in pairs at the doorway of every guest room.
 |
| Looking down on the lobby lounge at the early hours of the morning. |
 |
| Traditional wooden slippers were available in all guest rooms |
 |
| The hotel rooms were beautifully designed |
In my guest room, there was a card with instructions of how to use the onsen, which I studied carefully before I went down to the spa. The last thing I needed was to do something wrong while I was completely naked.
The pools are only about the depth of a bathtub, and everyone is expected to rinse off before submerging in the water. Once clean (and naked), you lie down in the water and cover your head with a wet wash cloth. There is not much to look at, other than a greenhouse of plants on the opposite side of the onsen. Obviously no one would dare look left or right, because there may be other people next to you.
Lying in the water invoked a strange, almost mildly breathless sensation. I started being able to relax after a few minutes, but I never felt totally at ease. Perhaps it was the minerals in the water, or maybe it was just my lack of appreciation for this type of relaxation. I stayed in the water for about 10 minutes before feeling as though I had put in my time. When I returned to the locker room, I saw an older woman cleaning the room without any acknowledgement that she was surrounded by naked men. At this point, I just laughed to myself. I needed to get out of there.
Japanese people believe that the vast array of minerals in the water help to heal aches and pains, and even treat certain illnesses. Maybe I'm too uptight, but I just couldn't relax enough to buy into the hype. The experience felt as though I was bathing with a bunch of strangers.
Fortunately, there are several other things to do in Hakone that I really enjoyed. The Hakone Ropeway is a large gondola that takes tourists 1.4 kilometers up the mountain where onsen water can be found. On the way up, you can even see the steam coming up from the mountain.
 |
| Steam coming up from the mountainside (as seen from the gondola) |
 |
| Steam is even present at the top of the mountain |
At the summit, there is a visitor center with restaurants, shopping, and other small exhibits. I was also spellbound by the amazing views of Mt. Fuji from just about everywhere. While at the summit, we walked along this path that took us through a peaceful stream, past some religious fountains, and up to a hot pool of onsen water that is used to make hard boiled eggs. In this part of Japan, everything is about celebrating onsen.
 |
| Volcanic gas can be dangerous... |
 |
| Here's our group in front of a scenic lookout point |
 |
| This is where the eggs are boiled in onsen water |
The hard boiled eggs are by far the most popular purchase among tourists who are mesmerized by the black shells. I was told that the minerals in the water cause the shells to turn black, although the inside part was completely normal (white and yellow), and without any noticeable difference in taste.
 |
| Eggs boiled in onsen water |
Before heading back down the mountain, we tried some black ice cream, which is purely a gimmick for tourists (no onsen water was used to make the ice cream). Our mouths turned black, but it was completely worthwhile.
 |
| Eating black ice cream (tasted like vanilla) |
 |
| Stunning views from the gondola |
The entire excursion does not last for more than a few hours (including lunch), but it is definitely worth seeing if you make it all the way to Hakone. Although the onsen culture is not my preference, I found it quite interesting to observe the popularity of this tradition among locals.
Another reason for anyone to visit Hakone should be the food. Tokyo may be home to the most Michelin-starred restaurants in the world, but the Japanese appreciation of fine dining certainly extends to this mountain resort as well. I am obsessed with Japanese food, and my expectations were surpassed at almost every meal. I just love how much detail and effort goes into every dish. In Japan, food is art.
 |
| Sushi dinner on my first night in Hakone |
 |
| It was almost too beautiful to eat...almost. |
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Hakone because I felt as though I finally got a taste of real Japan. The town has a very unique atmosphere that you simply can not find in the big cities. Even my hotel room felt like a Japanese home (well, what I would imagine a Japanese home to look like), including the famous Japanese toilets, which I wish would become more popular in other countries. I don't think I will be rushing back any time soon to experience onsen again, but I really enjoyed having the opportunity to explore a more relaxed side of Japan. I can't wait to discover more of this amazing country.
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