When I think about China, "enchanting" is not usually the first word that comes to mind. It is indisputable that the country has a rich history, but its rapid pace of development in recent years has really ruined the charm of most cities. Before visiting Hangzhou, everyone told me that the West Lake has retained the charm of old China. I don't know how a lake could be very exciting, but I was willing to keep an open mind.
My hotel was directly across from West Lake, and when I arrived at 8PM, there was a large crowd watching a fountain show. Compared with fountains in Dubai and Vegas, this one was much smaller and the music sounded like Chinese opera. Excitement level was starting from the ground floor...
The first morning, I woke up early for a run around the lake. I didn't expect to find many other people awake before 7AM, which proves just how little I know about China. Before even leaving the hotel grounds, I noticed several people practicing tai chi. There was complete silence, no music and no counting...Just peaceful coordinated movements in sync with each other (well, almost in sync).
Nearby, I saw a man with a giant paintbrush in one hand and a small orange bucket of water in the other. I then looked down at the ground and noticed that he was painting Chinese symbols on the pavement. I have no idea if the characters were writing a message, but it was a beautiful form of art, nonetheless. He carefully drew on the ground, despite the fact that very few people were there to appreciate his work.
I continued running, with the water on my left and the road winding alongside. Sheltering me were old trees that formed almost a canopy with their thick branches and oversize leaves. The gray brick buildings on the other side of the road reminded me a little of the French Concession in Shanghai, with a more colonial style than the typical Chinese architecture. There were no high-rise buildings dominating the lakefront view, which made me very happy.
The edge of the lake was dotted with lily pads, while a man rowing a small boat was picking the dying plants and placing them behind him. If I didn't look carefully, I may have even missed that he was a maintenance worker.
The eastern side of the lake contained a lot of inlets, but there was a straight road cutting through for the traffic to pass easily. I ascended over occasional small bridges, which kept the running route even more exciting. The water views on both sides of me were quite nice, despite the onset of tour buses that began to roar past.
The southern edge of the lake was much more developed, and I found myself battling large tour groups that were already arriving to visit the famous Liuhe pagoda on the adjacent hill. There were even a few motorbikes racing towards me on the sidewalk, which I dodged as though I was part of a video game. (Since when did it become ok for people to ride their motorbikes on the sidewalk?)
The last section of the lake was probably the most spacious, with a large park and plenty of benches for people to sit and take in the scenery.
After returning to my hotel, I was amazed by how much activity I encountered on just a regular weekday morning. It's almost like I had walked into a movie set, filled with actors who were portraying a picturesque morning in historic China.
Throughout my week in Hangzhou, I found myself being inexplicably drawn to the lake. Some evenings, I went for a walk after work, enjoying a cup of tea (which Hangzhou is also famous for), and I even rented a paddle boat one afternoon.
There was always a lot of activity, but it felt so much less chaotic than the crowds in Hong Kong or any other major city in China. One evening, I saw people dancing in a gazebo over the water. Every day, I noticed people practicing various styles of tai chi. It was obvious that the West Lake holds great appeal - even for locals.
Coming from someone who grew up next to a lake, I always appreciate how such a scenic landmark can bring a community together. I don't think I would necessarily spend days upon days just staring out over the water, but it was really nice to just relax in the peaceful surroundings before and after work. In an odd way, I felt right at home.
My hotel was directly across from West Lake, and when I arrived at 8PM, there was a large crowd watching a fountain show. Compared with fountains in Dubai and Vegas, this one was much smaller and the music sounded like Chinese opera. Excitement level was starting from the ground floor...
The first morning, I woke up early for a run around the lake. I didn't expect to find many other people awake before 7AM, which proves just how little I know about China. Before even leaving the hotel grounds, I noticed several people practicing tai chi. There was complete silence, no music and no counting...Just peaceful coordinated movements in sync with each other (well, almost in sync).
 |
| Tai chi - with and without swords |
 |
| Practicing tai chi in silence on an early morning |
Nearby, I saw a man with a giant paintbrush in one hand and a small orange bucket of water in the other. I then looked down at the ground and noticed that he was painting Chinese symbols on the pavement. I have no idea if the characters were writing a message, but it was a beautiful form of art, nonetheless. He carefully drew on the ground, despite the fact that very few people were there to appreciate his work.
 |
| A man paints on the ground with water |
I continued running, with the water on my left and the road winding alongside. Sheltering me were old trees that formed almost a canopy with their thick branches and oversize leaves. The gray brick buildings on the other side of the road reminded me a little of the French Concession in Shanghai, with a more colonial style than the typical Chinese architecture. There were no high-rise buildings dominating the lakefront view, which made me very happy.
 |
| A worker cleans up the lake on this early morning |
The eastern side of the lake contained a lot of inlets, but there was a straight road cutting through for the traffic to pass easily. I ascended over occasional small bridges, which kept the running route even more exciting. The water views on both sides of me were quite nice, despite the onset of tour buses that began to roar past.
The southern edge of the lake was much more developed, and I found myself battling large tour groups that were already arriving to visit the famous Liuhe pagoda on the adjacent hill. There were even a few motorbikes racing towards me on the sidewalk, which I dodged as though I was part of a video game. (Since when did it become ok for people to ride their motorbikes on the sidewalk?)
The last section of the lake was probably the most spacious, with a large park and plenty of benches for people to sit and take in the scenery.
 |
| Gates leading into a park on the southern edge of the lake |
After returning to my hotel, I was amazed by how much activity I encountered on just a regular weekday morning. It's almost like I had walked into a movie set, filled with actors who were portraying a picturesque morning in historic China.
Throughout my week in Hangzhou, I found myself being inexplicably drawn to the lake. Some evenings, I went for a walk after work, enjoying a cup of tea (which Hangzhou is also famous for), and I even rented a paddle boat one afternoon.
 |
| A small child blew bubbles across these lanterns sitting in the water |
 |
| Enjoying some tea while the sun began to set |
There was always a lot of activity, but it felt so much less chaotic than the crowds in Hong Kong or any other major city in China. One evening, I saw people dancing in a gazebo over the water. Every day, I noticed people practicing various styles of tai chi. It was obvious that the West Lake holds great appeal - even for locals.
 |
| Dancing on the lake |
 |
| A more relaxed and fluid form of tai chi |
 |
| Ladies with swords as the morning sun shines brightly through the trees |
Coming from someone who grew up next to a lake, I always appreciate how such a scenic landmark can bring a community together. I don't think I would necessarily spend days upon days just staring out over the water, but it was really nice to just relax in the peaceful surroundings before and after work. In an odd way, I felt right at home.
 |
| View of West Lake from the front of my hotel |
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