My trip to Fukuoka started exactly like I expected it to... with a dated airport and luggage that was perfectly arranged on the belt.
Japan is known for precision in everything, kind and humble people, and really good food. However, I also think of it as a country that, in some ways, is stuck in the past. I shouldn't really have this opinion after only visiting Japan a couple times, but I was just never "wowed" by the architecture or any semblance of a progressive lifestyle. For me, the trip to Fukuoka was a good opportunity to see another part of Japan that I would otherwise never have any reason to visit.
I stepped into the taxi, and noticed the seats covered with white doilies. Interesting. The driver was dressed in a black blazer and white gloves, which underscored the formality and attention to hygiene that is so common in Japan.
It was raining, so I just spent the evening shopping in the mall adjacent to the hotel. Although most of the clothes are too small for me, I will admit that it is really fun to shop in Japan and see all the interesting styles and trends in the stores. In the center of the mall, there was a giant sculpture that intrigued me. I took a picture without knowing what it was:
The next morning, the local team told me about this festival called Yamakasa, which dates back over 700 years. It just happens to be celebrated during the first two weeks of July and the big finale was coinciding with my visit. I love when timing works out coincidentally like this.
The festival pays remembrance to a priest that saved Hakata from a terrible plague by being carried around on a platform and throwing holy water at the people. In the modern day festival, teams of men from different districts carry floats along the same route that the priest took. The "race" happens at dawn and I was told that I must attend!
I set my alarm ridiculously early, but I was lucky that the starting point (Kushida shrine) was just a few blocks from my hotel. As I made my way down the street, I noticed lots of other people walking in the same direction. Most were drinking, which made me realize they had probably been out the entire night before.
As I got to the race route, there were so many people lining the sidewalk that I could barely move. I then noticed large groups of men lining the streets wearing hilarious outfits that basically looked like a sumo wrestler's diaper with a smock on the top half. I'm sure there is a lot of deep tradition in the outfits, but I don't think anyone could pay me enough to wear something like that in front of thousands of people.
The procession started with some groups of men and children that just walked the course without carrying any of the large floats over their heads. I could hear drumming in the distance and the anticipation started building as I looked forward to what I was about to see.
Suddenly, a large group would start running down the street, carrying the large floats with more men on top, who looked like they were directing and motivating the team. It also looked like incredibly hard work for the men who were bearing the carrying the huge platforms on their backs.
Each float was a little different, but the general procession was very similar for each team. I loved watching all the enthusiasm and passion with which everyone came running down the street to honor this great tradition.
Gradually, the sun began to rise and the spectators began leaving. Through all the excitement, I never really learned whether this race is a competition of speed, or if the float decorations are what define the winner. Or, perhaps, if there was no winner at all and the entire event was solely for the purpose of building a team from each district and honoring a great tradition of Fukuoka. Despite not knowing the details, I was enjoyed being able to witness such a great cultural tradition.
During the weekend, I walked through the city center but did not manage to get any pictures of the unremarkable, 70's style buildings. The shopping was surprisingly good, and some of the tiny Japanese restaurants were quite charming.
Although I didn't love everything about the city, there's no denying that Japanese food is always worth the trip. Fukuoka is known to be one of the best places to get ramen. Although I never seek out ramen, I always find it surprisingly satisfying. I need to remember that real ramen in Japan is nothing like those cheap instant noodle packets that you can buy in the US for 25 cents!
Of course I can't come to Japan without getting sushi. Even though it is surprisingly expensive here, my meals are never a disappointment. The seafood is just so fresh and all the restaurants seem to offer such a wide variety. I even went to a sushi-go-round restaurant (I thought they were only tourist traps in Europe), and it was some of the best I have ever had.
The local team boasted about how Fukuoka has been ranked in the world's top 10 for quality of life, and I can definitely see how the city would be a really nice place to live. It is a big enough city to have lots of opportunities for people, but not so big that traffic and congestion becomes a big issue. However, I wouldn't give it such high marks for tourism. I was lucky enough to come during a really interesting festival. But, if it weren't for that, I don't think I would have found it to be a very memorable place.
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| Perfectly arranged luggage belt |
Japan is known for precision in everything, kind and humble people, and really good food. However, I also think of it as a country that, in some ways, is stuck in the past. I shouldn't really have this opinion after only visiting Japan a couple times, but I was just never "wowed" by the architecture or any semblance of a progressive lifestyle. For me, the trip to Fukuoka was a good opportunity to see another part of Japan that I would otherwise never have any reason to visit.
I stepped into the taxi, and noticed the seats covered with white doilies. Interesting. The driver was dressed in a black blazer and white gloves, which underscored the formality and attention to hygiene that is so common in Japan.
It was raining, so I just spent the evening shopping in the mall adjacent to the hotel. Although most of the clothes are too small for me, I will admit that it is really fun to shop in Japan and see all the interesting styles and trends in the stores. In the center of the mall, there was a giant sculpture that intrigued me. I took a picture without knowing what it was:
 |
| Interesting sculpture in the center of the mall |
The next morning, the local team told me about this festival called Yamakasa, which dates back over 700 years. It just happens to be celebrated during the first two weeks of July and the big finale was coinciding with my visit. I love when timing works out coincidentally like this.
The festival pays remembrance to a priest that saved Hakata from a terrible plague by being carried around on a platform and throwing holy water at the people. In the modern day festival, teams of men from different districts carry floats along the same route that the priest took. The "race" happens at dawn and I was told that I must attend!
I set my alarm ridiculously early, but I was lucky that the starting point (Kushida shrine) was just a few blocks from my hotel. As I made my way down the street, I noticed lots of other people walking in the same direction. Most were drinking, which made me realize they had probably been out the entire night before.
As I got to the race route, there were so many people lining the sidewalk that I could barely move. I then noticed large groups of men lining the streets wearing hilarious outfits that basically looked like a sumo wrestler's diaper with a smock on the top half. I'm sure there is a lot of deep tradition in the outfits, but I don't think anyone could pay me enough to wear something like that in front of thousands of people.
The procession started with some groups of men and children that just walked the course without carrying any of the large floats over their heads. I could hear drumming in the distance and the anticipation started building as I looked forward to what I was about to see.
Suddenly, a large group would start running down the street, carrying the large floats with more men on top, who looked like they were directing and motivating the team. It also looked like incredibly hard work for the men who were bearing the carrying the huge platforms on their backs.
 |
| One group runs down the street |
Each float was a little different, but the general procession was very similar for each team. I loved watching all the enthusiasm and passion with which everyone came running down the street to honor this great tradition.
 |
| This looks like a lot of work for the runners |
 |
| A larger group goes by with a more elaborate float |
 |
| Another float continues down the street |
Gradually, the sun began to rise and the spectators began leaving. Through all the excitement, I never really learned whether this race is a competition of speed, or if the float decorations are what define the winner. Or, perhaps, if there was no winner at all and the entire event was solely for the purpose of building a team from each district and honoring a great tradition of Fukuoka. Despite not knowing the details, I was enjoyed being able to witness such a great cultural tradition.
- - - - - - - -
During the weekend, I walked through the city center but did not manage to get any pictures of the unremarkable, 70's style buildings. The shopping was surprisingly good, and some of the tiny Japanese restaurants were quite charming.
 |
| A large shopping arcade filled with cheap souvenirs |
 |
| A charming shrine tucked between modern buildings |
Although I didn't love everything about the city, there's no denying that Japanese food is always worth the trip. Fukuoka is known to be one of the best places to get ramen. Although I never seek out ramen, I always find it surprisingly satisfying. I need to remember that real ramen in Japan is nothing like those cheap instant noodle packets that you can buy in the US for 25 cents!
Of course I can't come to Japan without getting sushi. Even though it is surprisingly expensive here, my meals are never a disappointment. The seafood is just so fresh and all the restaurants seem to offer such a wide variety. I even went to a sushi-go-round restaurant (I thought they were only tourist traps in Europe), and it was some of the best I have ever had.
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| Room service sushi is such a nice way to end the day |
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| The chef works hard behind the sushi-go-round. We ordered a la carte. |
The local team boasted about how Fukuoka has been ranked in the world's top 10 for quality of life, and I can definitely see how the city would be a really nice place to live. It is a big enough city to have lots of opportunities for people, but not so big that traffic and congestion becomes a big issue. However, I wouldn't give it such high marks for tourism. I was lucky enough to come during a really interesting festival. But, if it weren't for that, I don't think I would have found it to be a very memorable place.
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