Dusseldorf, Germany

I have visited many cities in Germany, but none that I enjoy more than Dusseldorf.   Munich may be a close second, thanks to its proximity to the Alps, but I think Dusseldorf offers the best overall quality of life.  

Here are some reasons why: 

1) The city center was essentially destroyed during the war, but they re-built everything according to historic plans.  The result?  A city that retains a historic-looking charm but is also clean and modern.  

2) The airport has good connections and is only a short train ride from the city.  Plus, the public transportation in the city is really well-developed.  I hate driving, so this is perfect for me. 

3) Dusseldorf is considered the fashion capital of Germany.  Need I say more?

4) The arts are also popular and I was lucky enough to be in the city during the Dusseldorf Festival.  Of course I had to check out a couple different performances - all of which were fantastic. 

5) Germans consider people from Dusseldorf to be a little snobby.  I think I would fit right in if I moved here!

6) The running paths and parks along the Rhine river are incredible.  Beyond that, the people running are always greeting each other and it made me feel really welcome.  

7) Dusseldorf has the largest Japanese population in Germany and the 3rd largest in Europe.  This may be a stretch, but I interpret the statistic to mean that Dusseldorf offers the best Japanese food in Germany. 

7) Everyone I met spoke English well and was really friendly.  They kept me company at lunch every day and spoke English with each other so I could understand the conversations.  I can't ask for much more than that!

If the awesome aspects of Dusseldorf that I listed above are not convincing enough, Mercer's 2012 Quality of Living Survey ranked the city #6 in the world.  This survey is based on factors such as infrastructure, political stability, natural environment, crime, health, and recreation.  Random side-note: my home city of Boston has the third-highest ranking in the USA (below Honolulu and San Francisco), but is still only #35 globally.    

In summary, Dusseldorf is fantastic - including my hotel, which is so new that it still looks like this on the GoogleMaps satellite: 

The hotel is a lot nicer without the cranes 

During my 2-week project, I even had the added excitement of sharing my hotel with the German National Football team while they prepared for a World Cup qualifying match.  I never get star-stuck but it's fun to see a small crowd outside the hotel throughout the day and all sorts of little kids with soccer balls/jerseys/posters for the players to sign.  The fans remind me that I am lucky enough to be staying at one of the best places in town, even though none of them are there to see me!

Here's what the front door looked like all day/evening

Over the past two weeks, I was too busy enjoying myself to even take many pictures.  I posted a few when I visited earlier this year, but all I can provide from the past two weeks is one of the hotel lounge, where I enjoyed sushi multiple times:

Great place to unwind after a long, easy work day

Returning to Europe

Finally...back in Europe!  

I felt "at home" as soon as I walked off the jet-bridge in the Frankfurt airport.  Everything around me was clean, fresh, and silent.  I love silence.  

A last-minute schedule change relocated me to Dusseldorf but the journey was easy, thanks to a high-speed train that speeds through the countryside at 200 km/hour.  

I was greeted with perfect fall weather and a perfect sunset.  It's so nice to be back in a place where I can go outside without feeling uncomfortable! The hotel's terrace bar was buzzing and the view from my room was postcard-worthy.  

Looking out at the city from my room

Just a slight contrast to my view in Mumbai: 

Oh India...

Sunday morning, I felt so energized that I went for a long run along the Rhine river.  Crisp fall weather is perfect for running and I forgot how fantastic it feels to run outside with the breeze all around me and amazing views.  The people in Dusseldorf are so friendly.  Whenever I passed another runner, we exchanged nods and a lip-synched hello.  

Brunch - my favorite meal of the week - tasted even better than any meal I ate in Mumbai.  Not that all the food there was gross, but my system must be thanking me for giving it food that is not so difficult to digest.  I can finally eat salads again! I can finally brush my teeth without worrying about swallowing the water.  Simple pleasures.  

My project started on Monday morning with perfect German efficiency. We sat down to create a plan for the two weeks and our meeting was immediately followed by schedule invitations for a series of meetings.  Organization makes me feel calm and in-control.  I can already tell that this is going to be a great project. 

To top it off, a friend was in town for the day from Berlin and we were able to have dinner together.  When I initially took this job, I had hoped to see friends that are scattered across the world.  It's always nice to take advantage of these opportunities.  

I continue starting my mornings with energizing runs along the Rhine.  How can I resist when there is such a small window of perfect weather?   I started laughing this morning when I noticed a bunny running across the grass.  In India, that would have been a rat.  Both are furry creatures but bunnies are just so much cuter.  

Layover Weekend

I have had some crazy flight itineraries in the past, but my trip from Zurich to Casablanca may be the most ridiculous ever.  From Zurich to Dusseldorf to Madrid to Casablanca, my trip included a 7-hour layover in Germany and an overnight stop in Spain.  I suppose I could have just purchased new flights when my schedule kept changing, but I felt badly about wasting company money.  The result: 4 countries in two days!

My first stop in Dusseldorf gave me the chance to actually explore the city beyond just the 26.2 miles I spent running through the streets a couple weeks earlier.  I put my luggage into storage and hopped on the first train into the city center.  Everywhere was buzzing with activity because there was a football game that afternoon.  It would have been even more exciting if I had people to watch the game with, but I still enjoyed the energy of the everyone around me. 

In my mind, one thing that distinguishes Germany from other European countries is the modern element of its cities.  Of course this is inevitable when everything is bombed during the wars, but it just feels slightly different than most other countries in Europe.  That said, Dusseldorf has really embraced some modern architectural designs – particularly with the Gehry buildings by the harbor. 

Streets look like other parts of Europe...only cleaner and newer

Cool architecture makes up for lack of old buildings in Dusseldorf!

I would love to know what these apartments look like from the inside...

One of my favorite aspects of European lifestyle is the extent to which people enjoy life in the city centers.  It seems like every Saturday, the main shopping districts are packed with residents and tourists alike.  There is no need for shopping malls or mega supermarkets because people are comfortable walking around without their cars.  Europeans like to spend hours at their local café that has been around for generations, rather than national chain restaurants.  In my opinion, the only American cities that rival this sense of urban community are Boston, San Francisco, and Washington DC.     

Just another day in paradise.

After a relaxing day in Dusseldorf, I returned to the airport and boarded my next flight to Madrid.  I hate to admit it but those flight attendants on Iberia just looked miserable.  You’d think that Spanish people who are lucky enough to have jobs would at least put on a smile for the half-filled planes!

My short time in Madrid almost felt like being back at home (in a strange way).  The warm weather was a welcome change from central Europe and it felt good to be able to communicate with the hotel driver in his local language.  Even though I only had enough time for a quick night of sleep and a jamon bocadillo for breakfast before heading back to the airport, it felt good to be back in Spain!  

Thank you, Spain, for not allowing these hideous shoes!

Cologne and Dusseldorf

Here I am in Germany, officially starting the next stage of my life.  I won’t be going back to Chicago after six weeks for another transition period.  The small selection of clothes in my suitcase will be my wardrobe until the next time I go home – whenever that may be.  My routine will change every two weeks, as I adapt to new colleagues, new cultures, and new ways of working.    

The view from my room was of the famous Cologne Cathedral and my view from the office was of a bridge that doubles as a climbing wall.  Normally I don’t even get a window in my workspace, so it was like a gift when I discovered I would have even the smallest taste of the outside world while I work.  It’s the little things that make a difference these days!

Here's the view from my room...

...and the view from my office window

On Saturday, I decided to get lost in the city and just go wherever the streets took me.  There isn’t much to do in Cologne and I had been there before, so it’s nice to enjoy a day without feeling obligated to see all the major sites.  I scored a really cool souvenir at used book market that convenes by the riverfront on the weekends. No, it wasn’t a book in German.  It was a map of Chicago...in German...from 1902.  I figured it would make a good gift for my boss or even for me, when I actually settle down again.  While shopping, I also ran across an impromptu parade with various cheerleading troupes.  Who doesn’t love random parades on a Saturday afternoon?           

Here's the first group doing a little routine

Not your typical cheerleaders but still hilariously entertaining!

Sunday was another marathon – this time in Dusseldorf.  I know, it has been less than 2 weeks since the Boston Marathon.  I know, I’m not even IN Dusseldorf.  However, my original schedule had me in Dusseldorf and I can’t pass up a race that’s so convenient.  I arrived WAY too early and the weather felt extremely cold.  So, I actually sat around in a subway station for almost an hour like a homeless person.  Eventually, I decided that the subway thing was stupid so I relocated to a bakery that smelled of warm deliciousness, bought myself a pastry, and sat in there for a while!

Finally, it was time to start walking to the race start.  I was reluctant to leave my jacket at the gear check, but I knew I would regret it if I had to run 42 kilometers with a North Face shell (and I certainly wasn’t going to throw away my only good jacket somewhere along the course)!

I always think running is such a unique way to see a new city and the Dusseldorf Marathon was no exception.  The homes were beautiful and the city was amazingly clean and orderly.  It is Germany, after all.  I was struck by the high security presence, which I attributed to the horrible events in Boston that were still fresh in everyone’s minds. 

By around mile 20, I was ready to be finished running. The last six miles seem to be my breaking point in most marathons but I was particularly worn out this time.  I started walking and could barely motivate myself to jog once again.  Of course, this happened to be where the majority of the photographers were stationed, so I got lots of hilarious candid pictures that looked like I was just out for a leisurely stroll on the streets of Dusseldorf! 

I act like I'm not in the middle of a race!

Even though my body was staging a revolt, I’ll admit that the finish line was very cool.  People were lined up along a higher street, looking down onto the runners as they approached the final turn.  My time was surprisingly respectable for having walked most of the last few miles.  I retrieved my bags, grabbed a few berliners (aka jelly donuts), and walked slowly back to the finish line to cheer on the other finishers. 

Overlooking the finish line from the street above

Corporate partners had their own tents with food.  I was jealous!

After enjoying the race atmosphere for a while, I decided it was time to venture back to Cologne.  During the train ride, I felt really satisfied with my choice to run.  The experience proved to me that people would still come out to cheer for runners, despite the recent bombings in Boston.  Even though security was higher, nothing else about the race felt all that much different to me. 

I returned to Cologne, took a long shower, and walked (very slowly) back to the Cathedral for an evensong.  Even though I couldn’t understand a single word of the service, it was amazing just to be part of the experience.  I thought back to the time my family visited me in London and I went to an evensong at Westminster with my Mom.  If I had unlimited funds, I would fly her out to Germany just to experience this with me because I know she would love it too.  

I started here but ended up in the choir loft...amazing acoustics!

The architectural detail is amazing