Easter Weekend in Hong Kong

What is a traditional way to celebrate Easter? Growing up, it revolved around church and spending time with family. In Hong Kong, life is different. Rather than getting my praise on, I spent almost the entire weekend outside with new friends.

On Good Friday, I joined the OutInHK group for an eighteen kilometer hike across the Plover Cove Country trail. To get there, we met at Tai Po Market Station before splitting into groups and sharing taxis to the start of the trail. One thing I love about Hong Kong is that I can get out of the city so easily and enjoy the natural beauty. As we ascended the mountain and looked out at the panoramic views, I already felt like I was on vacation. 

My taxi group is ready for a long and fulfilling day of hiking!

   

Views of the mountain trail looked like an endless quest

The trail traversed across a string of mountain ridges - each with its own unique views and diverse terrain. As we hiked along an endless series of peaks and valleys, it gave us the chance to talk a lot. I felt really fortunate to be part of such a wonderful group. We all come from such different backgrounds, yet we are united in our common love for outdoor adventures.

Candid moment towards the end of the afternoon

Descending onto the final stages of the trail

Mid-conversation about photography, politics, or life in Mongolia

We stopped at most of the high peaks to take pictures, drink water, and reflect on the distance that had already been covered. Some of the conversations were about past hiking adventures, but we got into more engaging topics as the kilometers passed. What brought us to Hong Kong? Where do we see ourselves in the future? What is family life like when we go back home? It's amazing how much you can learn about people when there are no other distractions.

The entire group enjoys a break at one of the open spaces

Towards the end of the hike, we crossed a long dam that separated a reservoir from the main waterway. At this point, we were all excited to be back on flat land because the constant elevation changes started to become taxing. Time for a group selfie. Job well done. 

Selfie at the edge of the reservoir

The long path leading back to civilization

The official ending point was at a small village called Tai Mei Tuk, where we relaxed with some beer and Thai food. We ordered way more food than I thought we could handle, but we were ravenous from an entire day of hiking in the mountains. We even got free dessert, courtesy of some Cantonese speakers in the group. It was the perfect end to a really wonderful day. 

Enjoying Thai dinner after the hike

- - - - - - - - 

The next morning, I kept up the momentum by joining my Saturday morning running buddies for a quick 8km run along Bowen Road in Mid-Levels. Back in the United States, I never used to enjoy running with people, but our small running group has become something I look forward to doing every Saturday that I am at home. It's a great excuse to get myself out of bed and I can start the weekend with some cardio.  

Selfie after an energizing Saturday morning run

- - - - - - - - 

On Easter Sunday, a small group of friends suggested a day trip to go kayaking. For the second time in three days, I ventured deep into the New Territories for outdoor adventures. We met at Sai Kung Pier, which is accessible by taking a train, followed by a long ride in a minibus.

Despite the insanely long line for the minibus, they were arriving in quick succession so I managed to get on after only about 10 minutes of waiting. This was the first time I rode in one of these buses and it was quite an adventure. The drivers like to test the speed limits and I started laughing when I looked up at the monitor behind the driver to see pole dancing classes on TV. (There's nothing like some pole dancing to get your day started). 

Pole dancing lessons on the minibus TV!

When we arrived at Sai Kung, it almost felt like Thailand. I walked along the pier and noticed some ladies in tiny boats, sorting buckets of fresh fish. Along the adjacent street was a string of seafood restaurants - complete with tanks of fresh fish and lots of outdoor seating. 
 

A woman arranges seafood in a boat next to the pier

Restaurants along the waterfront

My friends arrived and we caught a taxi to an even more remote area. When the taxi finally stopped, I wondered if we were in the right place because it just looked like a dead end street in a residential neighborhood.  But, Alfredo assured me that we were in the right place, so we got out and walked down a small paved path and through what looked like someone's private driveway. Then, out of nowhere, I caught a glimpse of a small beach and endless blue water. 

Views from the area where we picked up our kayaks - beautiful!

We picked up our kayaks from a local guy, secured our gear into lockers, and set off for a day on the water. The first stop was at a small beach in front of the little mountain on the left side. When we pulled up on the shore, it felt like hundreds of miles away from civilization. We had some snacks, went in the water (which was really cold), and relaxed on our private beach. 

Staking claim to our private beach

After a little while, we got back into our kayaks and rowed out to a rock formation in the middle of the water.  When we got closer, we noticed that the rocks were covered in barnacles, so it was not possible to conquer the island like our original plan. Instead, we just floated around and chatted about nothing. It was truly the most relaxed I have felt in a long time. 

Floating around aimlessly

Woody sleeping on his kayak near the shore

Eventually, we decided to row again and we ended up at yet another beach that was just around the opposite shore from the one we had stopped at earlier. We played some card games on the sand and observed my skin gradually turn to a deeper red color. At this point, there was another small group on the beach, so we asked them to take our picture and set off to return our kayaks. 

A collage of photos taken by EJ from our day of kayaking

By this point, we were pretty far from the place where we started, so it was quite a workout getting back. We took frequent breaks and eventually pulled up on the sand. 

Our kayaks dock on the sand after a long but relaxing day

The owner of the shop said a few parting words to us in Cantonese before we got back into a taxi bound for Sai Kung Pier. I was really excited to try the seafood restaurants, but we first decided to have a "happy hour" at a shop with a huge selection of craft beer from around the world. It was truly the best selection of beer I have ever seen since arriving in Hong Kong.  

As we sat in front of the shop and watched people walk by, it felt oddly like being in Cape Cod, or some other beach town. We went to one of the restaurants and allowed our local expert to order for us. The food was really quite amazing. I even tried some salt & pepper fried prawns - including the shells and the heads. Life is a constant adventure!


On my way home, I felt a little burnt, but a lot happy. This weekend may not have been the traditional Easter that I enjoyed growing up, but it started a new tradition of enjoying outdoor adventures with amazing people. I made new friends, strengthened existing friendships, and explored new areas that I had never even heard of before. Anyone who thinks Hong Kong is just a series of skyscrapers along Victoria Harbour has a lot of exploring to do!

Happy Easter!

Hysan Trail Run - Hong Kong

I can finally call myself a trail runner! 

After running only on paved roads for basically my entire life, the amazing landscape of Hong Kong (and some great new friends) have inspired me to discover the joys of trail racing. I found out about the Hysan Half Marathon and thought it would be the perfect event to test my novice skill level.

Race day morning was pretty typical, with an early alarm and a carb-filled breakfast. When I stepped outside, I was surprised to feel a light rain that was not in the forecast. Normally, this wouldn't be a big problem, but the unpredictable terrain made me nervous about slipping on the rocks and leaves - particularly since I did not get a chance to buy trail running shoes in advance.

The race organizers arranged shuttle buses to the starting line, which was convenient since it was all the way up in the mountains of the New Territories (Tai Lam). The bus ride was really entertaining because people kept yelling at the driver in Cantonese, which I can only assume was because he was getting lost. Eventually, we got to the park where the race was set to begin. I found my group and we quietly prepared ourselves for the race. 

Great representation from the Out in HK group!

The starting line was so different than a typical road race. There were no corrals, no seeding by pace group, and random picnic tables serving as roadblocks. Suddenly we were off, and it was like a free-for-all to get to the road.

Race staging area - including picnic table roadblocks!

Starting line mayhem

I started the race with another friend and we kept a relaxed pace, but still managed to pass quite a few people. Had I known that the entry into the trails would be a bottleneck staircase, I would have probably pushed even faster. Anyhow, the wait was not too long and the first trails were relatively wide. I had never run in this area before, but there were some amazing views from this part of Hong Kong. 

Beautiful views throughout the course

The next section was a steep downhill on a winding road, which allowed us to let gravity do most of the work. By the bottom of the hill, I looked behind me to find my running partner and he was oddly not there. I figured we would not be running together for the entire race anyhow, so I just forged ahead and used the opportunity to really pick up my pace.  

Shortly after, the course got much harder because the trail almost disappeared entirely as we climbed a steep hill. I found myself pushing through branches and leaves, while also looking down to make sure I was not falling in a pothole or veering from the course. I found the uphill section to be somewhat fun, but the downhill section was more stressful because I was afraid of slipping without any good footing. It almost felt like skiing down a really narrow double black diamond. 

Each new section brought new challenges and exciting elements to overcome, but I found myself feeling like it was the race that never ended.

Another candid shot from an easier paved section

A runner forges ahead through the rocky trail

Two runners focus on the trail

At the last checkpoint, I was sure that we must be close to the end, but I asked the volunteer and she said that we still had 5km remaining. My legs have never been so tired in a half marathon before, and the elevation was really taking a toll. Soon after this checkpoint, we merged with the slow runners from the 13k race. On one hand, the slow runners added yet another set of obstacles to the course, but on the other hand, it was encouraging to whiz past so many people.

The end of the race came seemingly out of nowhere, and it brought us right back to the park where we began. I enjoyed being cheered by the other members from my running club when I came through the gate, and I felt accomplished from the challenge that had just been completed. 

Even though this race was only a half marathon, the huge elevation gains/losses made it feel like a lot longer. I love trail running because it requires a lot more mental focus. In these races, it is not possible to turn off your brain because you must constantly be aware of the terrain. I found myself much more stressed on certain parts because I was nervous about losing my footing or holding back the people behind me. However, the thrills of the course far outweighed the negative elements. 

Looking back on the elevation and route maps, it was cool to see the distance that we covered: 

Elevation Chart for the 21k course

 

Overall course map

Throughout the race, I did not pay any attention to the number of people in front of me, nor did I bring a watch to track my own time. I had no way of even predicting my goals, but I finished with the feeling that I pushed almost as fast as I could have gone. 

I was happy with my overall placement of 30th out of 635 runners in the half marathon. For my first trail race, finishing in the top 5% was very satisfying. The race organizers did a great job at arranging the course and managing the logistics. It was much more rustic than any other race I have done in the past, but I think that is the biggest appeal of trail running.  

Hong Kong Apartment Search

Hong Kong is notorious for having one of the most expensive rental markets in the world. Even before moving here, I was prepared to pay a lot for tiny accommodations. What I did not expect, however, was the inefficient and fragmented system that faces anyone looking for an apartment in Skyscraper City. 

One of many giant residential buildings in Hong Kong

Just walk down any street and the vast array of rental agencies makes it abundantly clear that this is a lucrative industry.  Considering all the choices, my first task was finding a realtor I can trust. One of my American colleagues spoke highly of his realtor, so I visited the office on my first weekend in the city.  

The outside windows were completely covered with advertisements of units for rent, and each picture had numbers that meant nothing to me. Unlike all other cities I have lived, apartments list both the gross square footage (including all common areas, including elevators, hallways, etc), and net size (actual liveable space inside the apartment). I almost couldn't believe my eyes when I saw actual apartments for rent with less than 200 square feet of living space. It's like paying to live in prison!

Before even going inside the realtor's office, I noticed a few listings that caught my attention. When I stepped inside, there were rows of workstations that resembled a university computer lab. I introduced myself to the first person who looked up and we had a short discussion about my wish list and budget. He then started searching in his computer. 

"What about those places you have posted in the front window?" 

"Oh they are not available anymore," he responded quickly, without even looking up from his search. I learned very quickly that the advertisements in the windows are more like examples. The only way to learn true vacancies is to walk inside and talk to someone. So much for efficient window shopping!

After a few minutes, the realtor had found two places he could show me. Both happened to be within walking distance, so he grabbed the keys and off we went. The first unit was above my price range and unfurnished. I gave a quick courtesy look, but then explained my preferences again.  The second unit was a two bedroom - also not what I had asked for. 

On the way back to the agency, I asked if he could show me some other neighborhoods and he explained that I would have to talk to other realtors if I want to look in other neighborhoods. Upon hearing that, I knew instantly that my search would be significantly more complicated than I had anticipated.  

Over the next couple weeks, I visited what felt like thirty different rental agencies, scattered throughout the city. Some of them could show me units immediately, while others asked me to make an appointment and come back at a later time. Most of the time, they would start by showing me units that did not meet my specifications (too large, too small, too expensive, missing appliances, no furniture). I got tired of going through the same charade every time I met a new realtor.  

Every day, I received countless messages from the realtors with available units. I felt like I was dating multiple people at once and I honestly couldn't keep track of them all. 

My first important victory occurred when I finally decided that I want to live within walking distance to my office in Kowloon. However, while that decision allowed me to "dump" all my realtors in other neighborhoods, it also meant that I needed to find additional ones in the area near my apartment. Why? Each realtor has a separate inventory and there is no central database from which to search available units for rent. Without talking to several realtors, I would be drastically limiting my options.  

When I was in Singapore, I felt like I needed to keep up with the search, so I went on Craigslist to look at some online listings. Despite all the warnings that "listings online are usually not even real apartments" and "locals do not use Craigslist", I found a place that looked like a great fit. I set up an appointment to see the apartment on the evening that I returned to Hong Kong. It ended up being just what I am looking for, and I would be renting directly through the owner (no realtor commission).  Was it too good to be true?  

Throughout the next week, I spent countless hours debating whether it was worth the risk. I have had a lot of success with Craigslist in the past (that is where I found my Chicago apartment back in 2011) but I just couldn't shake the fears of a possible scam - especially since I have to pay 3 months rent when I sign the contract.  I did a lot of research but there is really no guaranteed way to eliminate the risks. Were my concerns based on anything concrete or was it was just an underlying lack of trust in the entire process?  I just kept envisioning that this "owner" would disappear with my money and that I would never end up with the keys. In the end, I decided not to take the risk.  Back to square one.  

The next week, a local coworker offered to search with me one afternoon. I think he felt badly for me. Initially, the search started just like all the others. The first place we saw had no fridge, no oven, no washing machine. The next one was in a dilapidated building and it had two unfurnished bedrooms. We kept going in and out of realtor offices. My coworker would usually say a few words in Cantonese and then walk out, shaking his head from side to side. This was not going well. 

Just as we were about to give up, we went to one last agent. After a short conversation in Cantonese, my coworker said: "They have one place you might like on the penthouse level." My ears perked up with a mix of excitement and hesitation. We walked over to the building, took the elevator to the top floor, walked another flight of stairs (because the top floor in this building is actually above the elevators). From the moment I saw the view, I was sold. The apartment overlooks Kowloon Park, with views of Victoria Harbor and the Hong Kong skyline. 

The owner was also in the middle of renovations. There was a brand new TV on the wall, a new mattress covered in plastic, and plenty of built-in shelving for clothes. The tour only lasted about thirty seconds (you don't need much time to "tour" these tiny apartments) and I wasted no time in making a verbal commitment. Before leaving the apartment, we scheduled a time to meet a few days later so I could pay my deposit and sign the contract. 

During the housing search, I learned many things about Hong Kong. Despite being such a modern and fast-paced city, the rental market is still very traditional. Online listings are used more as a source for connecting people rather than actually showcasing vacant units. It is almost impossible to search for an apartment from abroad. In most cases, the owner likes to meet the prospective tenants. There is still a lot of racial stereotyping. As a Westerner, most realtors assumed I had an unlimited budget, a desire for lots of space, and an aversion to living among locals. And, like so many other countries, you get much better options when you know someone who can speak the local language. 

Rental commissions are hefty, but the system is built in a way that is almost impossible to avoid a realtor without taking huge risks. I am happy with my decision, but I can't help wondering what could have happened if I ended up with the Craigslist rental. If I was in the United States, I would have paid the deposit and signed the lease without hesitation. I perceived my risk to be higher here without any tangible reasons because the same risks also exist at home. The only reason it felt like a scam is because everyone kept telling me it had to be a scam. 

In my opinion, the rental business in Hong Kong is ripe for a transformation, much like the way Craigslist, Uber, and AirBNB have transformed their respective industries in the United States. I just don't know if the local market will allow the tipping point to take place. 

A string of Realtors on my street in Hong Kong

First week in Hong Kong

It's amazing how a 16-hour flight can feel both long and short at the same time. I didn't sleep (as far as I know), but I kept myself busy with about 5 movies, several TV shows, and some pretty decent food from Cathay Pacific. 

I felt oily and disgusting by the time I arrived in Hong Kong, but I was lucky to have a hotel transfer pre-arranged. 

My "home" (hotel room) for the next 6 weeks is awesome. It is probably bigger than my future apartment, and I was happy to see a nice card and some welcome gifts from the HR department (including an umbrella; how fitting).

My hotel room in Hong Kong

I quickly checked my e-mail and closed my eyes shortly thereafter (feeling like I could sleep at least 12 hours). Unfortunately, jet lag always wins this battle and I was wide awake only 5 hours later...Hello 3:30AM! I relaxed in my bed for a while before guilting myself into a trip to the gym. On my way out, I opened the blinds. Wow, such a beautiful view. Am I really in Hong Kong?

View from my room in Sha Tin

My New Home

My boss from Chicago was already in Hong Kong, so I met her on Sunday evening and she showed me the way to the office. As we walked, I was approached by multiple salesmen who offered to sell me a custom suit. No thanks. I'm a resident, not a tourist. It feels really strange to have that mindset. 

My boss had spent some time in the office prior to my arrival, so it was nice to hear about her experiences in Hong Kong. When the bill arrived, I put down my credit card and realized that I cannot expense this meal. I am no longer on a business trip. Despite the fact that I am in a completely foreign city, it is my home. 

The next week was like a blur. So many new people to meet - all very friendly. Welcome lunches almost every day with various coworkers and consultants. Every meal, without exception, has been amazing. This whole "dim sum" culture is right up my alley. 

Commuting 

For the past two years, my daily commute to work has involved little more than an elevator ride. I had a short walk to the office when I was in Chicago all summer, but it hardly felt like a commute because the weather was so beautiful. My hotel in Hong Kong area may be in a serene setting, but it requires an hour-long commute to the office. Trains in Hong Kong are so efficient...and so full of people. Personal space is a thing of the past.

No personal space in the Hong Kong MTR

New Friends

Just three days after arriving, I went to an alumni event for my business school. It was really nice to meet other graduates but none of them will likely become close friends in the future. 

Obviously there are many other outlets for me to meet people, but this was the first time it really hit me that I will have a long road ahead as I seek to build a new social circle that I really enjoy. 

On Friday night, I bid farewell to my boss and we went out for drinks in the expat neighborhood of Hong Kong. To be honest, I was not at all impressed with the area. It was grungy and it felt like New York.  My long trip back to the hotel gave me a lot of time to reflect on this transition. It will not be easy to build a new life at my age, when most of my peers are already settled down.  

Neighborhood Search

Saturday afternoon, I felt like my time would be better spent discovering potential neighborhoods to live instead of lounging by the hotel pool in the countryside. I took the train to Nam Cheong (one stop beyond my office) and it felt like I was in mainland China. I will certainly not be living here. 

Next, I went to Olympic MTR station and it was much more my style. There was a huge mall connected to the train station, with lots of new high-rise apartment buildings forming a community (of sorts). The night before, my coworker described Olympic as an area with rich families and I could totally see her point. However, the first place I saw (called "The Hermitage") felt like a luxury hotel and I loved it. As I walked through the over-the-top lobby, past the underground taxi stand, club-house, and gorgeous swimming pool, it felt like a nice alternative to the urban, expat neighborhoods on Hong Kong island.  

Next, I ventured over to Wan Chai, which is near the expat area but also with some local charm (according to another coworker). A realtor showed me a unit that was entirely different than the apartment I had just visited. The building was old, the apartment was filled with dated furniture, and it had only one tiny window that overlooks overcrowded streets and other buildings. I definitely cannot see myself living here.

View from an apartment in Wan Chai district

By this point, I was already tired of looking at neighborhoods. I explored the nearby Causeway Bay area without even thinking about whether I can live there. I have plenty of time to find a place. There's no need to stress about it so soon.

Occupy Hong Kong 

History is in the making! I visited Causeway Bay to see what all the hype is about and I was amazed by how peaceful everything was. It looked more like a camping trip than it did a protest. 

The "umbrella movement" in Hong Kong

This is the sleepiest protest I have ever experienced

One of the things I enjoy most about Hong Kong is how law-abiding and respectful everyone acts towards one another. People queue up whenever there is a stop light (even if there is no traffic), they remain completely silent while riding on the train, and everyone I have met is very pleasant to be around. 

Becoming a Hong Konger

I think I will end up enjoying my life in Hong Kong, and there will likely be new discoveries every step of the way. Even something as simple as discovering places to eat lunch is like an adventure. It takes a while to build a list of favorite places, but the selection process is all part of the fun.  

I have a lot of support from my office, I am doing a job that I enjoy, and I am in a region that has always been so exciting to me. In a city as dynamic as Hong Kong, I can only wonder if the "wow factor" I experienced this first week will ever become truly routine.

The next chapter

When I started this blog almost two years ago, I was embarking on an unknown journey. I rarely knew my schedule more than a month in advance, and sometimes, I was reassigned to a new city with only a few days notice. All of my belongings could fit into one (heavy) suitcase and my passport became the most valuable thing I own. Some people thought my lifestyle was glamorous, while others thought it was ridiculous. Looking back, I felt like I was living the dream although I acknowledge that my personal life required a lot of sacrifices. 

This summer, I was asked to come back to North America for a few months. The comforts of a ‘normal’ life started making me wonder why I left in the first place. Being in my home country felt like a vacation. I was able to see friends & family, the office environment was relaxed, and everything about my life was easy. I learned that no matter how long I am living outside the United States, I will always identify as an American.

Back in June, my boss offered me a permanent position in Hong Kong that would be created specifically for me. The job will represent a decentralization of our corporate function and I will be the point of contact for Finance directors needing assistance in the rapidly-growing Asia Pacific region. I was so complimented by the offer that I verbally accepted without even thinking about the personal ramifications. After all, I had lived out of the United States several times before. I knew that this career opportunity would boost my resume, so I was positive that I could make it work.

When the idea of Hong Kong finally set in, I thought back to the only other time I visited the city in 2010. I had just finished a semester in Shanghai and my friend Sean flew out from Texas to celebrate the end of the MBA. After the trip, we both agreed that we would much rather live in Shanghai than in Hong Kong. Now, four years later, I am preparing to live in Hong Kong. Am I crazy?

The position took a while to get through the approval process, so I spent much of the summer wondering whether it would actually become a reality.  I treated each day as a gift because I knew my time in the United States was limited. There were many times that I walked from my hotel to the office in Chicago and thought to myself: "Wow, I'm really going to miss this!" 

The relocation to Hong Kong is also what inspired my "four corners" trip. If I am moving out of the country for a minimum of two years, I want to at least see all corners of it before I am forced to leave. 

My job contract finally arrived on Wednesday, September 17th and my VP said that he would prefer if I could fly out 3 weeks later.  Even though I had been mentally preparing for this move all summer, the quick turnaround felt like I was getting caught up in a tornado. 

People kept asking me: "Are you excited?"

My response was always: "Well, it hasn't actually hit me yet" ...and that was the truth. I was too busy to think about it.

The next two weekends were already booked for my trip around the US, which left me with only one weekend to fly back to Boston and pack (and run a Half Marathon). 

Even as I was packing, it felt like I was just going through the motions. I decided which of my belongings would be set aside for the moving company, but I purposely left many things out of the pile. Hong Kong may be my new home for a couple years, but I can't send everything out there. If I do, it will feel like a permanent move. 

I think the biggest reason why I am not looking forward to this move is because I had such an awesome time in the United States all summer. I got to see my family multiple times. I got to spend time in the office with some fantastic colleagues who have become friends. I saw so many people that I have hardly seen at all over the past two years and I even made some new friends along the way. Life this summer could not have been any better. 

Now, here I am in the airport. I can see the monitor with the flight destination flashing: "Hong Kong."  It finally hit me.
  
In the next few weeks, I will search for a new apartment. I will buy furniture, cooking supplies, laundry detergent (or maybe I will just send all my clothes out to be laundered). I will start establishing a new morning routine. I will join a gym. I will have a commute! I will do my grocery shopping at a yet-to-be discovered store (or group of stores). I will make new friends (hopefully). I will discover some new favorite restaurants. Hong Kong may not be the place I want to live forever, but I will make it my home. 

In my very first blog entry, I talked about how I always embrace change. Well, change is here and it is time for me to run with it. 

Here's to the next chapter!