Goa, India

They call it the Hawaii of India. I don’t know if I would go that far, but Goa is certainly a beachfront haven in an otherwise chaotic country. The flights from Hong Kong are not convenient, with every option requiring long connections and an overnight arrival. When my plane finally touched down at 3AM, I was exhausted. I did, however, notice that the airport had been completely rebuilt and most of the roads were newly paved – a big improvement since my last visit in 2013. 

When I woke up the next morning, I pulled open the curtains to find a lush, tropical view. It really felt like a vacation and I was excited for two weeks of exploring the Indian coast.

View from my balcony

Beautiful pool and resort grounds

Colonial style architecture

September is the tail end of monsoon season, so weather is hit-or-miss. I was lucky to have sun the entire first day so I could relax by the beach or the pool. I first went for a walk along the beach, but it was not what I expected. The sand in Bambolim Bay is more like mud, and even just picking up a few shells caused my entire hand to turn grey. A few people were playing in the water (some were wearing jeans!), so I decided that I was better suited for poolside fun. 

Beachfront in Bambolim Bay

Fishing boats lined up along the beach

The pool was huge and clean. Much more my style than the nearby beach.

I didn't really leave the resort during the entire week. Although there are some casinos and local restaurants within a 20-minute drive of the hotel, none of that is enough to entice me. Instead, I just returned to my room every afternoon to find a towel animal before ordering the most non-Indian food I could find on the room service menu. 

Towel animal #1

Towel Animal #2

Towel Animal(s) #3

The beautiful resort at night

For my second week, I moved to another resort in South Goa, and it was like a completely different world. The resort felt like a traditional Portuguese village, and the Arossim Beach was so much cleaner. For the first time since arriving in Goa, I could understand the comparison to Hawaii. 

Beautiful resort grounds. Definitely doesn't look like elsewhere in India

Portuguese style village in the middle of Goa

Every room had a huge balcony

Another area in the resort.

On our last night in Goa, we finally ventured out of the hotel for a dinner in the more touristy part of the city. I noticed that there were several casinos and nightclubs, but none seemed incredibly lively from the outside. The downtown area is also home to some traditional, European-looking churches. Although current Goan architecture does not resemble Portugal, the churches are certainly a reminder of the former colonization. 

We also stopped at the public beach to watch some small groups celebrating the Ganesh festival and immersing the icons into the sea. As we watched the ceremony, I realized that this was my third time in India during this festival. Although I don't understand much of what is happening, I love how the country celebrates each festival so passionately with food, rituals, and family time.

Worshiping Ganesh before sending to sea

 

For dinner, we went to a great restaurant called Fisherman's Wharf, which was surprisingly upscale and reminded me of the Bahama Breeze chain in the United States. When we arrived, there was live music playing and lots of people just enjoying the relaxed ambiance. After two weeks of hard work and barely leaving the resort grounds, it felt great to get out and just relax at a fun restaurant.

Our group after dinner.

Looking back on my two weeks in Goa, I found it to be much improved over my last visit just a few years ago. Coming from Asia, I would never choose Goa over the endless array of resorts in Vietnam, Thailand, or Philippines. However, it is by far my favorite place to visit in India. For anyone spending an extended period traveling across the country, they would be crazy to miss the relaxed atmosphere of Panaji's state capital.

A nice reminder of my two weeks in Goa

Delhi, India

Of all the countries I have visited in my life, India has traditionally been the hardest for me to enjoy. Almost everything requires adaptation – from the heavy food to the blatant poverty. Even the service culture at 5-star hotels is much different than I have experienced in other countries. At the end of the day, I usually just close my door and savor the solitude. 

Don’t get me wrong – almost everyone I meet has the best intentions, and I am lucky to have many friends across the country. I just think the best way to approach every day in India is to appreciate the differences rather than getting annoyed by them. Locals want tourists to enjoy their time in India, and they are proud of their deep-rooted culture. In a world that is becoming more and more homogenous, it is actually refreshing to go to a country that is not trying to copy the latest global trends. 

After spending the past two weeks in Delhi, I can confidently say that it is the most comfortable Indian city for a westerner to visit. It still “feels” like India, but the roads are cleaner, the homeless people are less obvious, and it’s actually possible to walk around outside without every single person staring at you. 

On the weekend, I ventured out of the hotel without a driver and the doorman did not even try to stop me. I negotiated with a rickshaw driver for a ride to the metro and I actually rode on public transportation. Yes, it was crowded. Yes, people pushed. But I still did it, and I loved seeing the city through my own eyes rather than just the back seat of a car.  

What they say about crowded trains in India is true!

Best way to travel in India: Auto Rickshaw!

My first stop was Akshardham - the largest Hindu temple in the world. Security was very tight, and cameras were strictly prohibited (I even tried to bribe the security guard but it didn’t work). I did not spend much time walking through the complex because it looked very similar to many other temples I have visited in the past. To recap: I left my shoes in a booth before entering, I walked past elaborate marble sculptures, and I saw many people praying. It was fine, but nothing particularly memorable.   

Best views of Akshardham are from the metro platform 1 block away!

I then went to Connaught Place, which is a shopping district with distinctly British architecture. The shops were very Indian (and surprisingly overpriced), so I didn't really spend much time shopping. Sales clerks in India also tend to hover, which makes me uneasy when I just want to browse on my own.

European-style architecture around Connaught Place

I walked past a classic bakery called Wenger's and it looked so good that I was drawn inside to buy dessert. I almost forgot I was in India until I went outside and noticed this sign on one of the columns: 

You won't see a sign like this in the UK!

I will never understand why almost all buildings and streets in India are so dirty. As I walked through Connaught Place, I thought about how much potential it has to be a really upscale area, but proper maintenance is just completely lacking. Often, I see people sweeping the dust and dirt around in front of their properties, but it never seems to disappear. One of life’s mysteries, I suppose.

My last destination for the day was Humayun’s Tomb, which looks more like a palace than someone’s eternal resting place. 

Humayun's Tomb

From the outside, the building is grand and the Persian-style architecture somewhat resembles the Taj Mahal. The mausoleum took 7 years to construct, and is almost completely empty inside with the exception of the platform containing the emperor’s marble tomb. The site does not take too long to visit, but the grand architecture is absolutely worth a stop for anyone in Delhi. 

The tomb sits in the center of the giant building

Interior of the massive structure

On Sunday, I opted to stay inside the hotel for much of the day. The luxury hotels in India are truly a refuge from the outside world, and I just couldn’t convince myself to leave the perfectly manicured grounds and elaborate buffet restaurants. India is a great place for hotel lovers.  

View of the buffet restaurant in my hotel

Pool and manicured lawns of the hotel

That evening, one of the staff encouraged me to visit Hauz Khas Village – a shopping and nightlife district that caters to young, creative types. I really enjoyed the cool, unpretentious vibe there. The single winding street is lined with coffee shops, creative retail outlets, and low-key bars to pass the day. Without a doubt, this neighborhood is the hidden gem of Delhi.

Looking inside one of the retail boutiques in Hauz Khas Village

Nearby, there are also several temples that I enjoyed visiting. My favorite was Jagannath Temple, which I visited just as the sun was setting. It was a beautiful sight to see the brightly-colored sky framing the stark white marble of the temple. I don't really understand the religious traditions in India, but they are intriguing nonetheless. 

Ganesh statue inside Jagannath Temple

Jagannath Temple at sunset

An unknown tomb sits peacefully on the side of the road

On Monday morning, the local team asked about my weekend and they were shocked to hear that I did not visit the Taj Mahal. The option did cross my mind, but I just could not convince myself to travel 4 hours each way just to look at a building and take a generic picture in front of it. Of course the Taj is one of the most well-known and beautiful buildings in the world, but it also has the reputation of being filled with pushy salesmen and crowds that are herded like cattle. Thinking back on my weekend, I was happy with my decision.

My personal travel style has always been to explore a city beyond just the famous sites. I love discovering quaint neighborhoods, eating at family-owned restaurants, and traveling through the city like a local. I feel like I accomplished this in Delhi, and the experience was quite memorable. India may not be an easy place to visit, but I gained a new perspective over the past two weeks.

Flying in India

I'm generally quite tolerant when I travel, but airports in India always test my patience. Here's a typical series of events that travelers can expect before they manage to get up in the air:

1)  Arrive at the airport and decline multiple offers from people who wish to put your luggage on a cart and wheel it into the terminal. (Thanks, but I'm capable of wheeling my own suitcase). 

2) Push through the families that are bidding farewell to their loved ones. (In the smaller cities, this can be quite a crowd...)

3) Show your flight itinerary to the security guards so that you can pass through the doors.  (Showing the itinerary on a phone/computer screen may or may not be acceptable. I learned the hard way in Pune.)

4) Walk though the waiting area and show your itinerary to (yet another) security guard. 

5) Pass your luggage through a large scanner and ensure that they seal the zippers with a plastic strap. (Don't forget this step or the check-in counter will turn you away...another thing I learned the hard way).

6) Wait in line for the agent to start the check-in process (no self check-in). Since the luggage allowance is only 15 kilograms, you will probably need to pay an excess baggage fee. The check-in agent will weigh your luggage, write the fee on a piece of paper, and send you to the oversize luggage office.  (Don't try going to the oversize luggage office first...that process would be too efficient).

7)  Pay the excess luggage fee and refrain from laughing when they print the receipt on a dot-matrix printer.

8) Return to the check-in desk (try to find the same person who started the check-in process, which may be difficult since they are always moving around). Wait awkwardly while he/she finishes with the person they are currently helping, then file in afterwards to finally pick up your boarding pass and a carry-on luggage tag.

9)  If flying internationally, fill in a departure card and pass through customs.

10) Next step: Security. Get into your gender-specific line for security screening, put your bag on the belt, and walk through the metal detector (don't forget to keep your boarding pass in your hand). The metal detector setting will be so sensitive that even a button will cause it to beep. Not to worry because there's always someone stationed ahead with a handheld metal detector wand. Once you are "wanded", he will stamp your boarding pass as evidence that you are clear.

11) Attempt to pick up your bag from the belt. Chances are, they will need to scan it again (especially if they notice you are a non-Indian). Once, I was asked to remove all electronic devices and place them in a separate bin. Kindle, electric razor, ipod, phone, camera, etc etc. That was fun.

12) Once your bag is finally cleared, someone will stamp the luggage tag that you picked up at the check-in desk. (If you forgot to get a luggage tag at the check-in desk, go back to step 8 and repeat).

13) When it's time to board the flight, push (and be pushed) in the line. People will most definitely try to board before their assigned group and blatantly cut into the line. An agent will scan your boarding pass and check your passport. A separate person will check the tags on your bags to make sure they were stamped (they will probably check your boarding pass again, too). If you're lucky, you will be selected for additional luggage screening.

14) At the end of the jet bridge, you will have your boarding pass and passport checked yet again before stepping onto the plane. (Just in case the previous 3 checkpoints missed anything!) 

15) Sit down and read the airline magazine so you don't have to talk to anyone. You may find some interesting renditions of the United States map on this side of the world:

Since when is Boston south of Philadelphia and Hartford?

Emergency cards on IndiGo airlines are also amusing:
 

IndiGo has some impressive emergency exit cards

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If you are connecting in Mumbai or Delhi, the fun is just beginning...

Earlier this year, I flew from Amritsar to Ahmedabad, with a connection in Delhi. My first flight was delayed, but I arrived with 50 minutes to make the connection. Plenty of time in a normal airport. However, when we arrived in Delhi, a gate agent was commissioned to run us through the airport terminal. We first stopped at a ticket desk to pick up our connecting flight boarding passes (for whatever reason, I couldn't get both boarding passes when I initially checked in). The escort then proceeded to take us outside the secure area. We had to re-tag our carry-on bags, pass through security again, and literally sprint to the gate with only about 2 minutes to spare before the doors closed. I still don't understand why we couldn't just remain in the secure area and walk calmly to our connecting gate like everywhere else in the world?

Mumbai domestic-to-international connections are even worse because they involve two completely separate airports. When I traveled from Pune to Manila via Mumbai, I had to collect my luggage in the domestic airport, wait for a bus that comes every 30 minutes, and run my bag through another scanner just to get on the bus. Once I arrived at the international airport, I had to wait in the lobby for an hour because they don't allow check-in until 3 hours prior to the flight time (it was a long connection). I never thought I would be so eager to get inside an airport in India. 

There was also one occasion when I thought I would never leave the airport. When I flew to Amritsar via Delhi, my already-too-long 5 hour connection became a TWELVE hour nightmare.  The security guards told me that if I left the airport, they would have to cancel my ticket. So, I laid on the ground like a homeless person and closed my eyes while the non-stop announcements kept me awake.

Worst flight delay in history...2nd flight on the screen was mine.

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When I arrived in Mumbai from Perth, I was amazed to see that a completely new airport had just opened. Never in India have I seen a building in such pristine condition. The architecture was stunning, and I was almost completely alone (another rarity in India).

Departure hall at the new Mumbai airport

Even the shops are still under construction

Departure lounge in the new airport

I was so busy marveling at my surroundings that I barely noticed not having to fill out a departure card...or only having to show my itinerary once when I entered the building. It may not be much, but the gradual improvements in efficiency reflect a country that is constantly changing. Now, travelers flying in and out of Mumbai can experience a world-class facility. 

The airport experience in India may be frustrating and inefficient, but these cultural differences are just some of the many elements that make India such a unique place to visit. A seamless travel experience simply wouldn't fit with the rest of the country. 

Once you finally manage to get up in the air, the views will be just as spectacular as anywhere else in the world...Perhaps even more spectacular, considering all the steps that it took to reach that point. 
   

Watching the sun rise as I approach Mumbai

Monsoon Season in India

Back to India. This time during monsoon season.  

(As if I don't already have enough reasons to stay in my hotel...)

I was surprised to actually see the sun when my plane landed in Mumbai. The humidity hit me like a brick wall as soon as I stepped outside the airport, but it was nice that I did not have to battle pouring rains. 

The blue skies continued over the next few days and I noticed more conversations about the weather, although the tone included a sense of concern rather than a sense of relief. Apparently, the monsoon generally arrives on the same day each year, so the delay was causing a lot of uncertainty. 

There were articles in the newspaper which stated that the prices of food staples (potato, onion) were already increasing, based purely on the speculation of a lower-than-average monsoon. It's amazing how quickly people start to react to a few days of dry weather - especially since most meteorologists in the United States can barely forecast rain for the next day, let alone an entire season.  

And then, suddenly, the monsoon arrived.

Monsoon view from my window

Rain poured down in buckets and the view from my window became downright spooky. It's times like this that I really appreciate being inside. Driving in Mumbai is an adventure, even in perfect weather. Flooded roads add yet another dimension to the mayhem. 

The next day, I talked to some of my local colleagues about whether they get annoyed with the rain. Without exception, they all said that it is a beautiful and much-anticipated time of year. There was a sense of nostalgia, as they recalled the many times that they waded through the knee-high puddles, enjoyed an "earthy" scent in the air, and returned home completely soaked. 

As someone who despises rain, I could not associate with the things they were saying. There have been a few select occasions when I was forced to run in the rain and actually started to appreciate it (only after I was already soaking wet). However, aside from a handful of fun memories, I don't understand the beauty or the appeal of non-stop, heavy rains. 

My (American) colleague arrived at the hotel during another three-day period without rain and exclaimed how nice it was that the skies were clear. I shook my head in agreement. Then, our local consultant said something that I will never forget. His response was: "I'm glad you enjoy the nice views from your window. Meanwhile, we will have no food." 

At that moment, I started understanding why Indians genuinely appreciate the beauty of the rain. To them, it is a necessary part of the year that brings the most basic of all necessities to many people around the country. It is also a break from the oppressive heat that makes living conditions more difficult during the summer months that precede the monsoon. With so many people working outside or living in non air-conditioned homes, the heat impacts life in a negative way. 

Sometimes, I fail to realize that my perspectives of the world come from my upbringing in a first-world country. I dislike the rain because it prevents me from running outdoors or seeing blue skies in my pictures, but I never think about any potential impact on my food supply or living conditions. If the price of produce increases in my local grocery store, I usually don't even notice. My favorite foods are always available - even if they have to be imported from another country.

India is an exotic place in every sense of the word. I have always recognized the vast differences in food, clothing, cultural traditions, family dynamics, and so many other elements of life. However, it was not until this monsoon season that I realized just how much a person's upbringing can impact his or her perspective on something as simple as rain. 

Indian News

Indian newspapers have discovered the formula for capturing my attention.  I actually set my alarm earlier each morning, just so I have sufficient time to read the paper at breakfast.  Is it the quality of journalism?  In-depth business news? Balanced international coverage?  Nope, none of those (very valid reasons).  I read the paper in search of entertainment value, and India always lives up to my lofty expectations.  

It all starts with the headlines...

Typical Headline from Times of India

I'm sure Taylor Swift's preference for fully-clothed photo shoots is important to some people, but does this really trump all other news from the day?  

Even the phrasing of the headline makes me smile.  For the record, I like to keep on my clothes too.  

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Remember the personals section (before online dating came along)?  It still exists in India, but at a much more intense level.  Most Indians can't be bothered with a long courtship process... Here, people cut right to the chase and advertise for spouses.  Every Sunday, I am greeted with several pages of "matrimonials":

It seems as though most people desire a spouse that is fair-skinned, well-educated, and handsome/beautiful.  Caste is less of a concern these days, although Doctors (including "Dr. Boy" above) prefer to marry other doctors.  

On a similar note, if I ever decide to get married, I have a feeling that my fair skin and elite education would make me quite the catch in India...   

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Once marriage is finalized, the real problems set in: sexual compatibility.  My favorite section of the Ahmedabad paper was the daily sex advice columnist.   

I could have filled an entire blog entry with all the amazing questions I read about in this section, but I'll keep it short and post only one: 

Would Ru-Paul agree that this poor guy needs to visit a doctor for his cross-dressing tendencies?  I somewhat agree with the columnist's advice; but who knows - maybe this 18-year-old's "life partner" would enjoy that kind of thing...

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Amidst so many exciting sections, there is bound to be one snoozer.  The "personal announcement" section is where people announce name changes.  

I am genuinely curious...Does anyone care that this guy changed his minor son's name from  "Apurve" to "Appurv"? (As long as he is not 'a perv'  <knee slap>)

For the record, the above photo is just a very small part of the entire "Personal Announcements" section.  (Would anyone actually read this entire thing?) 

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I also came across this beauty one morning:  

Where can I get an "unmarried certificate"??  I would most certainly frame that certificate and display it right next to my college diploma. #winning. 

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Here's a story that would fall under the category: "Only in India"

Can someone explain to me how removing shoes and socks would prevent someone from copying?  Are they writing the answers on their feet?  

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I wonder how Hugh Hefner would feel about this next article: 

I would consider this article more of a comedic parody than an actual story.  I love how they imply that a nude picture can be called obscene if "it has the tendency to arouse a feeling or reveal an overt sexual desire."  For the record, Americans have a much less eloquent term to describe when someone "reveals overt sexual desire".

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In other news, Indian psychiatrists are finally starting to discover what first-world countries have known for years:   

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I think it is important to hear about all the most important news from around the world and Indian newspapers also have a special niche in the International category.  Who wants to read about the global economy when they can enjoy articles about cow farts?

Obviously Indian newspapers also report on serious news, but I much prefer to be entertained in the morning.  For this reason, I will always pick up a newspaper when I travel in India and search for articles that put a smile on my face.