Fukuoka, Japan (and the Yamakasa festival)

My trip to Fukuoka started exactly like I expected it to... with a dated airport and luggage that was perfectly arranged on the belt.

Perfectly arranged luggage belt

Japan is known for precision in everything, kind and humble people, and really good food. However, I also think of it as a country that, in some ways, is stuck in the past. I shouldn't really have this opinion after only visiting Japan a couple times, but I was just never "wowed" by the architecture or any semblance of a progressive lifestyle. For me, the trip to Fukuoka was a good opportunity to see another part of Japan that I would otherwise never have any reason to visit. 

I stepped into the taxi, and noticed the seats covered with white doilies. Interesting. The driver was dressed in a black blazer and white gloves, which underscored the formality and attention to hygiene that is so common in Japan. 

It was raining, so I just spent the evening shopping in the mall adjacent to the hotel. Although most of the clothes are too small for me, I will admit that it is really fun to shop in Japan and see all the interesting styles and trends in the stores. In the center of the mall, there was a giant sculpture that intrigued me. I took a picture without knowing what it was:

Interesting sculpture in the center of the mall

The next morning, the local team told me about this festival called Yamakasa, which dates back over 700 years. It just happens to be celebrated during the first two weeks of July and the big finale was coinciding with my visit. I love when timing works out coincidentally like this. 

The festival pays remembrance to a priest that saved Hakata from a terrible plague by being carried around on a platform and throwing holy water at the people. In the modern day festival, teams of men from different districts carry floats along the same route that the priest took. The "race" happens at dawn and I was told that I must attend!

I set my alarm ridiculously early, but I was lucky that the starting point (Kushida shrine) was just a few blocks from my hotel. As I made my way down the street, I noticed lots of other people walking in the same direction. Most were drinking, which made me realize they had probably been out the entire night before. 

As I got to the race route, there were so many people lining the sidewalk that I could barely move. I then noticed large groups of men lining the streets wearing hilarious outfits that basically looked like a sumo wrestler's diaper with a smock on the top half. I'm sure there is a lot of deep tradition in the outfits, but I don't think anyone could pay me enough to wear something like that in front of thousands of people. 

The procession started with some groups of men and children that just walked the course without carrying any of the large floats over their heads. I could hear drumming in the distance and the anticipation started building as I looked forward to what I was about to see. 

Suddenly, a large group would start running down the street, carrying the large floats with more men on top, who looked like they were directing and motivating the team. It also looked like incredibly hard work for the men who were bearing the carrying the huge platforms on their backs.

One group runs down the street

Each float was a little different, but the general procession was very similar for each team. I loved watching all the enthusiasm and passion with which everyone came running down the street to honor this great tradition. 

This looks like a lot of work for the runners

A larger group goes by with a more elaborate float

Another float continues down the street

Gradually, the sun began to rise and the spectators began leaving. Through all the excitement, I never really learned whether this race is a competition of speed, or if the float decorations are what define the winner. Or, perhaps, if there was no winner at all and the entire event was solely for the purpose of building a team from each district and honoring a great tradition of Fukuoka. Despite not knowing the details, I was enjoyed being able to witness such a great cultural tradition. 

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During the weekend, I walked through the city center but did not manage to get any pictures of the unremarkable, 70's style buildings. The shopping was surprisingly good, and some of the tiny Japanese restaurants were quite charming. 

A large shopping arcade filled with cheap souvenirs

A charming shrine tucked between modern buildings

Although I didn't love everything about the city, there's no denying that Japanese food is always worth the trip. Fukuoka is known to be one of the best places to get ramen. Although I never seek out ramen, I always find it surprisingly satisfying. I need to remember that real ramen in Japan is nothing like those cheap instant noodle packets that you can buy in the US for 25 cents!

Of course I can't come to Japan without getting sushi. Even though it is surprisingly expensive here, my meals are never a disappointment. The seafood is just so fresh and all the restaurants seem to offer such a wide variety. I even went to a sushi-go-round restaurant (I thought they were only tourist traps in Europe), and it was some of the best I have ever had.

Room service sushi is such a nice way to end the day

The chef works hard behind the sushi-go-round. We ordered a la carte.

The local team boasted about how Fukuoka has been ranked in the world's top 10 for quality of life, and I can definitely see how the city would be a really nice place to live. It is a big enough city to have lots of opportunities for people, but not so big that traffic and congestion becomes a big issue. However, I wouldn't give it such high marks for tourism. I was lucky enough to come during a really interesting festival. But, if it weren't for that, I don't think I would have found it to be a very memorable place.

Hakone, Japan

Japan's idea of a resort vacation involves laying naked in a pool of hot water.  

The tradition is called "onsen" and these mineral-rich hot springs are the biggest tourist attraction in Hakone. This mountainside resort town is surprisingly convenient to reach from Tokyo, which makes it really popular for both local and foreign tourists.

From Tokyo, I took a 90-minute train ride in the "RomanceCar". I was reluctant to ride a train with such a suggestive name, but it lived up to the high standards that Japan's rail system is known for. As we raced through the countryside, I enjoyed the views of rural Japan. 

I hope there is no romance on this car...

I got off the train at a town called Odawara, which is larger than the village of Hakone and easier to get taxis. As expected, the taxi driver did not speak any English, so I was happy that I had asked one of the train employees to write the address of my hotel in Japanese on a business card. I always get a little nervous when the taxi driver does not appear confident in our destination, but I was relieved to reach the hotel without any problems 20 minutes later. 

The hotel felt like an exclusive ski resort (minus the skiing). There was a fire burning in the lounge, and people sitting around in robes while they drank red wine. No one was dressed formally, and several people were even wearing the traditional wooden sandals that were in pairs at the doorway of every guest room.

Looking down on the lobby lounge at the early hours of the morning.

 

Traditional wooden slippers were available in all guest rooms

The hotel rooms were beautifully designed

In my guest room, there was a card with instructions of how to use the onsen, which I studied carefully before I went down to the spa. The last thing I needed was to do something wrong while I was completely naked. 

The pools are only about the depth of a bathtub, and everyone is expected to rinse off before submerging in the water. Once clean (and naked), you lie down in the water and cover your head with a wet wash cloth. There is not much to look at, other than a greenhouse of plants on the opposite side of the onsen. Obviously no one would dare look left or right, because there may be other people next to you.

Lying in the water invoked a strange, almost mildly breathless sensation. I started being able to relax after a few minutes, but I never felt totally at ease. Perhaps it was the minerals in the water, or maybe it was just my lack of appreciation for this type of relaxation. I stayed in the water for about 10 minutes before feeling as though I had put in my time. When I returned to the locker room, I saw an older woman cleaning the room without any acknowledgement that she was surrounded by naked men. At this point, I just laughed to myself. I needed to get out of there. 

Japanese people believe that the vast array of minerals in the water help to heal aches and pains, and even treat certain illnesses. Maybe I'm too uptight, but I just couldn't relax enough to buy into the hype. The experience felt as though I was bathing with a bunch of strangers.

Fortunately, there are several other things to do in Hakone that I really enjoyed. The Hakone Ropeway is a large gondola that takes tourists 1.4 kilometers up the mountain where onsen water can be found. On the way up, you can even see the steam coming up from the mountain. 

Steam coming up from the mountainside (as seen from the gondola)

Steam is even present at the top of the mountain

At the summit, there is a visitor center with restaurants, shopping, and other small exhibits. I was also spellbound by the amazing views of Mt. Fuji from just about everywhere. While at the summit, we walked along this path that took us through a peaceful stream, past some religious fountains, and up to a hot pool of onsen water that is used to make hard boiled eggs. In this part of Japan, everything is about celebrating onsen.

Volcanic gas can be dangerous...

Here's our group in front of a scenic lookout point

This is where the eggs are boiled in onsen water

The hard boiled eggs are by far the most popular purchase among tourists who are mesmerized by the black shells. I was told that the minerals in the water cause the shells to turn black, although the inside part was completely normal (white and yellow), and without any noticeable difference in taste.

Eggs boiled in onsen water

Before heading back down the mountain, we tried some black ice cream, which is purely a gimmick for tourists (no onsen water was used to make the ice cream). Our mouths turned black, but it was completely worthwhile. 

Eating black ice cream (tasted like vanilla)

Stunning views from the gondola

The entire excursion does not last for more than a few hours (including lunch), but it is definitely worth seeing if you make it all the way to Hakone. Although the onsen culture is not my preference, I found it quite interesting to observe the popularity of this tradition among locals. 

Another reason for anyone to visit Hakone should be the food. Tokyo may be home to the most Michelin-starred restaurants in the world, but the Japanese appreciation of fine dining certainly extends to this mountain resort as well. I am obsessed with Japanese food, and my expectations were surpassed at almost every meal. I just love how much detail and effort goes into every dish. In Japan, food is art. 

Sushi dinner on my first night in Hakone

It was almost too beautiful to eat...almost.

I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Hakone because I felt as though I finally got a taste of real Japan. The town has a very unique atmosphere that you simply can not find in the big cities. Even my hotel room felt like a Japanese home (well, what I would imagine a Japanese home to look like), including the famous Japanese toilets, which I wish would become more popular in other countries. I don't think I will be rushing back any time soon to experience onsen again, but I really enjoyed having the opportunity to explore a more relaxed side of Japan. I can't wait to discover more of this amazing country.

2015 Tokyo Marathon

Earning a spot in one of the World Marathon Majors is not an easy feat.  Boston requires all runners to achieve strict qualifying times, and the other five are so popular that they have introduced a lottery process. I applied for the Tokyo Marathon last summer, and I couldn't believe when I learned that over 300,000 people had applied for only ~30,000 spots. With a 10% acceptance rate, this race is harder to get into than some Ivy League schools!

In anticipation of the race, I followed the official Facebook page. They did not post much in English, but I can't really blame them since only a small minority of runners come from outside Japan. Mail correspondence, on the other hand, was top-notch. I received a detailed race brochure several weeks before the trip, which even included a map of the city and subway system to plan my sightseeing around Tokyo.

Any good marathon is preceded by big expo, and Tokyo's was among the best I had ever seen. Of course it was well organized (this is Japan, after all), but more importantly, it made me proud to be running in such an important event. The first area after packet pick-up was an introduction to all the World Marathon Majors. Then, there was a history of the Tokyo Marathon (which is incredibly only in its 9th year). 

The race-branded souvenir section was quite popular, although most of the items just looked like overpriced throwaways to me. There were also a lot of little games and partner promotions that I could not understand because they were all happening in Japanese. The lower level of the expo was like a shopping mall for running gear. I was in retail paradise.

Standing in line to enter the Tokyo Marathon Expo

Getting excited to run through the streets of Tokyo!

After visiting the expo, I spent much of the afternoon and evening just walking through the city and experiencing the sensory overload that is Tokyo. From the subway map to the street signs - everywhere you look is a feast for the eyes. 

This is the inside of an appliance store. Signs everywhere!

A busy street in Shinjuku area

My pre-race dinner was some yakitori (meat on a stick) and a giant bowl of ramen in the cool area of tiny restaurants near the Shinjuku train station. The pedestrian-only alley is called "Memory Lane", and each restaurant only seats about 8 people at a bar, tended by the owner/chef. I loved the relaxed atmosphere, which was a huge contrast to all the big-city action that surrounded it. With sufficient levels of carbohydrates in my system, I was well-prepared for my first race in Japan.

One of the restaurants on Memory Lane (photo courtesy of Silentskylark)

 

Outside the restaurants on Memory Lane

My hotel was only one block from the starting line, so race morning felt much more relaxed. I love being able to prep for my race from the comfort of a warm hotel room, while everyone else was lined up at the portable toilets. The weather was drizzling, which further enhanced my satisfaction of being able to stay inside.

Looking down at the warm-up area from the comfort of my hotel

At the last possible moment, I gathered my belongings and made my way to the starting corrals. Unfortunately, due to the 2013 Boston Marathon bombing, there were enhanced security measures in place that included metal detectors and bag-checks for all runners. We were even prohibited from bringing liquids into the warmup area. 

I debated whether to keep my jacket for the race because the threat of rain was over 50%, and also because I am now intolerant to the cold weather after living in Hong Kong. In the end, I decided to leave the jacket on. I even brought running gloves and a scarf with me. Overkill? Perhaps, but it was a long wait before the race started, and I knew that I would feel really cold at the end after depleting my energy supply. 

The waiting time in the starting corral felt long (particularly in comparison with my rushed start in the HK marathon a month ago), but I loved it when the cannons went off with confetti and the Roppongi Men's Choir started singing as we passed the starting line.

As always, the first kilometer was very slow and crowded, but people soon started to spread out in the wide roads (smart route planning).  Before too long, I started noticing a lot of really fun hats. Where Hong Kong will always be remembered as the "costume" marathon, I think I will remember Tokyo as the "hat" marathon. 

I will also remember the incredible crowd support throughout the entire route. Unlike some marathons that take runners way outside the city, this one remains in the urban limits. Of course Tokyo is such a sprawling metropolis, but I appreciate a city that is unafraid to shut down prime areas for a marathon to take place. 

Prior to this marathon, the most crowd support I have ever seen is in Boston. It felt like even more people were lining the roads in Tokyo, which is a huge morale boost. Initially, I was surprised to read that the race attracts 1.7 million spectators, but it seems possible when you consider that the course is so long. For comparison purposes, I looked up the statistics and it said that Boston Marathon attracts 500,000 spectators. 

Here I am, running through a street lined with enthusiastic spectators

Leading the pack of runners (not really)

My goal for this race was to qualify for Boston 2016, and I knew that would only happen if I could maintain a running pace throughout the entire distance. Somewhere around the 10 mile mark, I reluctantly passed the 3:00 pace group, which made me nervous because I don't think I am in 3-hour shape these days. 

I don't consider Tokyo to be a very beautiful city, but it was fun to pass some of the major sites along the course, such as the Imperial Palace, the Tokyo Tower, and the Asakusa Kaminarimon Gate (which also happened to be a turn-around point). 

Here I am in front of the Asakusa Kaminarimon Gate 

By around the 32-km mark, I was starting to feel really depleted of energy and I was not looking forward to motivating myself through another 10k. At that point, I started looking for some food at the refreshment points and I was ecstatic to see M&M's in a giant bin. 

I never really stop running as I pick up food & drink, so I just plunged my hand into the bin and grabbed the biggest handful I could manage. As I aggressively swept by, I could hear one of the cute volunteers express her surprise with a giggle. I greedily shoved about half of the handful into my mouth and immediately regretted the decision. M&M's are one of my favorite snack foods, but they are not the best idea when I am mildly dehydrated and running a race in cold weather. It felt like a real effort to swallow the chocolaty glob in my mouth, but I knew that I needed the energy boost. 

By around the 38-kilometer mark, I was really starting to feel pain and my legs just could not move at the pace I needed them to. It's times like this where my lack of training is apparent, but I kept pushing. I started feeling cold again, so I put my gloves and scarf back on. 

Trying to hold my composure, but I was over it by this point

All I wanted to do was walk, so I succumbed briefly to get a bit of relief around 40 kilometers. At that point, I saw some balloons bob past me and I saw that it was the 3-hour pace group. Part of me was supremely disappointed that I would not log another sub-3:00 time, but the rational part of me realized that I was literally pushing myself to the limit.

With that spirit, I convinced myself to start running again - even if it was just a jog. My knee was hurting, so I just wanted to end this thing. The amazing volunteers really made a difference at this point in the race, as they enthusiastically cheered for us all like we were superstars. 

Distracted by something...at this point, it could have been anything

The last 0.195 kilometers felt like an eternity, but the finish line was the most incredible site of the entire race (not because it was anything spectacular, but just because it marked the end of this torture)!

Crossing the finish line in Tokyo

I crossed the finish line with a very safe Boston qualifying time, and I knew my net time would be at least a minute less than what was shown on the clock. I may not have beaten my personal best, but I reached my goal of a Boston qualifier and I was proud of my effort throughout the entire race. 

The post-race organization was really impressive, but more importantly, the volunteers were BEYOND incredible. I love anyone who volunteers their time at a race but these people were truly something special. In a country where not many people speak good English, I was shocked to hear so many people congratulating me with good pronunciation and such genuine smiles on their faces. 

Everyone's belongings were lined up with military precision

Everyone says that the people make all the difference in life, and that was absolutely the case in Tokyo. The city (in my opinion) is nothing special, but the spectators and the volunteers made this experience so special for me. One group of volunteers even allowed me to ride on an express shuttle bus back to my hotel (which should have only been for people who purchased the tour packages) - probably because they could see that I was unable to bend my right knee.

I got back up to my room, took a long shower, and looked out my window at the views of the vast city surrounding me. When I applied for this race back in August, the race day seemed like it would never come. But now, 6 months later, here I am living in Asia and taking a weekend trip to Japan for my 11th marathon. 

Views of Tokyo from my hotel

Whenever I finish a race, it doesn't take long for the feeling of accomplishment to supersede any memories of pain. Years from now, I will remember the funny hats, the amazing volunteers, and the overall thrilling experience of running in the only World Marathon Major in Asia.

My performance in the 2015 Tokyo Marathon