Hangzhou, China

When people talk about Hangzhou, the first thing they mention is the West Lake. Yeah, it's beautiful and enchanting (I devoted an entire entry to it). However, I was also surprised by the lesser-known attractions in the city that make it such an exciting place to visit. 

First, let's talk about the food. I found it to be among the best in China. The flavors were a little sweet, very delicate, and well prepared. CNN even did a recent article about my hotel's restaurant - which was rated among Asia's top 50 restaurants (#34). The most amazing dish for me was a roasted pork pyramid, which was basically a tower of bacon that you peel apart and stuff into a puffy steamed pancake. Clearly not a very healthy choice, but it was well worth the indulgence!

Jin pai kou rou (Dongpo Pork Pyramid) - truly mouthwatering!

Of course there are always some unappetizing food options in China, but the more frightening foods are also the ones that provide the best memories. One night, the local staff took me out to a restaurant that served a dish that still turns my stomach. It was a soup containing raw prawns that were flopping around in a rice wine, tomato and vinegar broth. I was instructed to eat them whole - including the shells, heads, and antennae. "Don't worry, they will die in the alcohol", I was told. The sweet, tangy flavor of the liquid, mixed with the biting crunch of the shells is something I will not soon forget. 

This is one soup I never want to try again!

Of course, China wouldn't be complete without some religious sites and swarms of tourists. The most famous is Leifeng Pagoda, which perches atop a hill next to West Lake. The pagoda was originally constructed in the year 975, but the current version is clearly not the original structure because it contains an ultra-modern glass elevator that catapults visitors up to the top level for a view of the city. I decided to take the stairs, which allowed me to see each level separately. There was some nice artwork throughout the pagoda, but I would be lying if I said spent more than 2 minutes breezing through each exhibit.

Modern elevator inside Leifeng Pagoda

They even have escalators if you don't want to climb the steps

Well-decorated interior of the pagoda

The views from the top of the pagoda were really quite nice, despite the swarms of tourists who kept getting in my way with their selfie sticks. 

Views of West Lake from the top of the Leifeng Pagoda

Another must-see destination in Hangzhou is the former residence of Xueyan Hu. Nestled in the middle of the city center, you would never guess that a city block contained anything spectacular. However, inside the high walls was far more than just a home. It was more like a neighborhood, with tiny buildings clustered around beautiful Chinese gardens and coy ponds. 

Beautiful Chinese architecture fills the residence complex

Looking out over the coy pond and some buildings making up the residence

I was truly in awe the entire time, and it almost felt like walking through a miniature (and more beautiful) version of the Forbidden City in Beijing. Visitors are allowed to walk through a majority of the buildings, and some even retain the period furniture and household items. I think part of the appeal for me is that Mr. Hu made his fortune as a merchant and banker, yet he lived like a royalty - with countless women and servants quarters. I could almost imagine the lives of everyone living there. 

I can start to imagine life in this tiny piece of Mr. Hu's residence

Nearby the home is the famous Hefang Street, which is a pedestrian-only street with various touristy items for sale, street stalls selling interesting foods (mostly grilled items on sticks), and some upscale restaurants with traditional Hangzhou specialties. 

Crabs on a stick? Just one of many delicacies on Hefang Street

I didn't buy anything because I'm not really into knickknacks, but Hefang Street should still be on anyone's itinerary because of the interesting characters, traditional architecture, and local souvenirs. 

Walking along Hefang Street

Traditional architecture lining Hefang Street

For people who need more useful items, there are also larger shopping malls and international luxury goods near my hotel. I walked through one of the malls quickly before realizing that sales clerks in China also like to hover as they awkwardly follow you around the store. It's a shame they can't learn more about the western shopping preferences because these tactics totally turn me off of the entire experience. Of course, import duties in China make all the prices higher than Hong Kong anyhow, so I had no real reason to do much shopping.

I was, however, amused when I saw a giant billboard from Gap with the slogan: "Dress Normal". It made me wonder whether this a global slogan or if was it an intentional jab at the lack of style across much of the country? 

Is this the global slogan for Gap or only in China?

The weather was perfect on Sunday, so I hiked up the hill near the edge of Hefang Street to reach City God Pavilion. I was excited to see what was up there, since the unique structure can be seen from all over the city. I didn't have any expectations, so I was pleasantly surprised to see a funny little museum inside. There were statues depicting what I can only assume is ancient traditions meeting modern technology. One statue was of an older woman carrying a bowl, while a younger child stared at a computer. Next to them was another older guy carrying a tablet. There were no other tourists around, so I put aside my pride and took advantage of the photo op. 

Skeptical of what I was seeing...

 

Taking a selfie with the statues. Yes, I have completely lost my mind.

The top levels of the pavilion also provided really beautiful panoramic views of the city, which I think are even better than the other hilltop structures in Hangzhou. 

Views from the top of the pavilion

After leaving the pagoda, I continued hiking up the hill to find several other shrines and temples that were nestled in the woods. I love being able to just wander around aimlessly, without any particular agenda or timeline. I almost felt guilty stopping for just enough time to take a few pictures before rushing off again. Maybe it's because I don't understand the religion, but all shrines just start to look the same after a while. 

Beautiful architecture hides in the trees

A statue remains comfortable in his "home"

The hiking trail was very well defined, and there were even several motivational signs on the way that lauded the fitness efforts of all who hiked up the hill. I don't really need the motivation, but the signs were amusing nonetheless. At the top, there was also a two-story gazebo-type structure that afforded beautiful views of the City God Pavilion and the other sites I had just visited on my way up. Although I had not even walked very far from the surrounding city center, it felt I was miles away.

Views from the hilltop, which felt like miles away from the city

Perhaps my most enjoyable memory from Hangzhou was when I went to a cultural museum near West Lake with a couple of my colleagues. Walking down the street, we were stopped multiple times by groups of students who were practicing English and wanted to interview a tourist. Obviously I stand out from the crowd as a potential English speaking foreigner, so I was a prime target for these interviews. 

Their language skills were wide-ranging, but I loved how their faces lit up when they could actually have a conversation with a native English speaker. They all asked to take a photo with me as "proof" of their interview, and I only wish I could be sitting in that class when they presented their photos and all realized they spoke with the same person!  

One group stood out in particular - not because of their impressive English skills, but because one girl was wearing a shirt that said: "I love weed". Did she know what she was advertising? Probably not...

A group photo with the girls who interviewed me

Before visiting Hangzhou, I had no idea the city would be so full of amazing experiences. From shopping to hiking to cultural attractions, it is a place that truly has something for anyone.

West Lake in Hangzhou China

When I think about China, "enchanting" is not usually the first word that comes to mind. It is indisputable that the country has a rich history, but its rapid pace of development in recent years has really ruined the charm of most cities. Before visiting Hangzhou, everyone told me that the West Lake has retained the charm of old China. I don't know how a lake could be very exciting, but I was willing to keep an open mind. 

My hotel was directly across from West Lake, and when I arrived at 8PM, there was a large crowd watching a fountain show. Compared with fountains in Dubai and Vegas, this one was much smaller and the music sounded like Chinese opera. Excitement level was starting from the ground floor...

The first morning, I woke up early for a run around the lake. I didn't expect to find many other people awake before 7AM, which proves just how little I know about China. Before even leaving the hotel grounds, I noticed several people practicing tai chi. There was complete silence, no music and no counting...Just peaceful coordinated movements in sync with each other (well, almost in sync). 

Tai chi - with and without swords

Practicing tai chi in silence on an early morning

Nearby, I saw a man with a giant paintbrush in one hand and a small orange bucket of water in the other. I then looked down at the ground and noticed that he was painting Chinese symbols on the pavement. I have no idea if the characters were writing a message, but it was a beautiful form of art, nonetheless. He carefully drew on the ground, despite the fact that very few people were there to appreciate his work.

A man paints on the ground with water

I continued running, with the water on my left and the road winding alongside. Sheltering me were old trees that formed almost a canopy with their thick branches and oversize leaves. The gray brick buildings on the other side of the road reminded me a little of the French Concession in Shanghai, with a more colonial style than the typical Chinese architecture. There were no high-rise buildings dominating the lakefront view, which made me very happy.

The edge of the lake was dotted with lily pads, while a man rowing a small boat was picking the dying plants and placing them behind him. If I didn't look carefully, I may have even missed that he was a maintenance worker. 

A worker cleans up the lake on this early morning

The eastern side of the lake contained a lot of inlets, but there was a straight road cutting through for the traffic to pass easily. I ascended over occasional small bridges, which kept the running route even more exciting. The water views on both sides of me were quite nice, despite the onset of tour buses that began to roar past.

The southern edge of the lake was much more developed, and I found myself battling large tour groups that were already arriving to visit the famous Liuhe pagoda on the adjacent hill. There were even a few motorbikes racing towards me on the sidewalk, which I dodged as though I was part of a video game. (Since when did it become ok for people to ride their motorbikes on the sidewalk?)

The last section of the lake was probably the most spacious, with a large park and plenty of benches for people to sit and take in the scenery. 

Gates leading into a park on the southern edge of the lake

After returning to my hotel, I was amazed by how much activity I encountered on just a regular weekday morning. It's almost like I had walked into a movie set, filled with actors who were portraying a picturesque morning in historic China.

Throughout my week in Hangzhou, I found myself being inexplicably drawn to the lake. Some evenings, I went for a walk after work, enjoying a cup of tea (which Hangzhou is also famous for), and I even rented a paddle boat one afternoon. 

A small child blew bubbles across these lanterns sitting in the water

Enjoying some tea while the sun began to set

There was always a lot of activity, but it felt so much less chaotic than the crowds in Hong Kong or any other major city in China. One evening, I saw people dancing in a gazebo over the water. Every day, I noticed people practicing various styles of tai chi. It was obvious that the West Lake holds great appeal - even for locals. 

Dancing on the lake

A more relaxed and fluid form of tai chi

Ladies with swords as the morning sun shines brightly through the trees

Coming from someone who grew up next to a lake, I always appreciate how such a scenic landmark can bring a community together. I don't think I would necessarily spend days upon days just staring out over the water, but it was really nice to just relax in the peaceful surroundings before and after work. In an odd way, I felt right at home. 

View of West Lake from the front of my hotel