Sunday, 19 May 2013

Casablanca, week 1

I think it’s funny that whenever I mention I am in Casablanca, the first thing most people think about is the 1940’s movie.  I have never seen that movie, so my only frame of reference was the long-weekend trip I took to Marrakech during my MBA program. 

During that trip, Sean and I stayed in the medina, which is an absolute maze.  Honestly, I have never seen anything like it.  Small alleys twisting in every direction, none of which are marked, and all are filled with young people who want to confuse you even more by telling you that certain alleys are “closed”. (Here's a video of us exploring the maze...)


On our first day there, we tried finding Jemaa el-Fnaa (the main square) and it literally took the entire day.  I am normally really good at navigating my way through new places but I lost all sense of direction there.  When we finally found it, the sights and sounds were worth all the hassle…well, most of the hassle.  We tried snail soup, fresh-squeezed juices, bargained for $5 tee-shirts (which shrunk to half the size after one wash), and took pictures with monkeys climbing all over us.  I was actually really impressed with the relentless sales approach of the shop owners.  They could be selling absolute rubbish, but they still manage to confidently offer a price that is 10 times its value. 

Snails...Yum! 

Fresh squeezed orange juice!

Dinner time!

After a couple days of urban madness, we took a tour into the Atlas Mountains to expose ourselves to a less chaotic side of Morocco.  We still had to bargain with a mountain guide and firmly decline all offers for faux “handmade” crafts but the scenery was really beautiful.  

Hiking in the Atlas Mountains

My least favorite souvenir from that vacation was food poisoning, which made for an awful flight home.  I only blame myself, though, for thinking it was alright to order chicken when I saw multiple places that kept raw meat sitting under the hot sun with absolutely no refrigeration. 

Don't eat meat that looks like this!

Casablanca, I told myself, would be totally different than Marrakech.  For starters, I am staying at the nicest hotel in the city, which reduces my fear of unsanitary food.  I arrived in my room and immediately peered out the window as I always do at a new hotel.  The views of the old medina, with the Hassan II Mosque in the background, were stunning.  The first thing I noticed was the sheer number of satellite dishes on the rooftops.  This is a city full of TV enthusiasts! 

View from my room: Old Medina and Hassan II Mosque

I turned on my computer to check e-mail and change time zones, but something confused me.  The computer said Casablanca time was 3pm, but both my watch and the clock in my room said it was 4pm.  I went to the gym and the clocks on at least two machines agreed to my computer.  I needed a tiebreaker, so I called the front desk.  As it turns out, the time zone (as well as the work week) was changed to match France because of the strong business relationships between the two countries.  

My office for the two weeks in Morocco used to be an Italian restaurant.  I even got to work in a booth and I spent at least a few minutes of each day imagining how hilarious this restaurant must have been when it was open.  One of the fun parts of my job is that I never know where I will be working.  Sometimes, the office is a gem.  Other times, it’s less than comfortable. 

My office in Casablanca

I have to give major credit to local staff in Casablanca.  They integrated me seamlessly and never made me feel like I was an annoyance.  Every day, I had lunch with senior management, who nicely spoke English around me since my French is very rusty. The staff canteen was remarkably good and I love how Moroccan cuisine integrates cinnamon into so many dishes.  It adds such a unique dimension to the flavor palette and is something I will definitely try to use more when I start cooking for myself again. 

During the weekend, I spent quite a bit of time exploring the city.  The streets reminded me of other places in North Africa but some areas were much nicer than I would have expected.  I was also surprised by the high prices in brand-name shops, specifically Zara, which produces a lot of its clothes right here in Morocco.  I didn’t realize that their clothes actually have to be exported, then re-imported (and taxed).  Contrary to better judgment, I did what any local Moroccan would do…bought a “Zara” shirt on the street and paid $12 instead of $75! (I know, the sleeves will probably fall off next time I wear it).   

Before going back to the hotel, I decided to walk through the medina to compare it with Marrakech.  My first impression is that it looks exactly the same: Overwhelming volumes of merchandise, displayed at the front to lure you into the shops.  The items for sale included branded clothes, shoes, household goods, leather bags, and food.  The big difference is that the shop owners were much less pushy in Casablanca. 

There is a lot of stuff happening at this shop

Then came the exciting part:  A guy came up beside me and said that I had stepped on his foot.  When I apologized and looked down, I noticed that my credit cards were in his hand.  He immediately started running and, without thinking, I chased after him.  For about a quarter mile, we wove through the tiny alleys as the adrenaline pumped through my body.  I eventually caught up to him, grabbed the back of his shirt, and started yelling at him in French to give me my stuff back!  He dropped the credit cards on the ground and I released my grip on his shirt.  I grabbed my cards off the ground and jogged back to the main shopping area with my hands in both pockets. 

On my way back to the hotel, I realized how incredibly stupid I was to run after him.  I could have been killed and no one would have even noticed.  I just could not let a cowardly pickpocket run away with my stuff, knowing that I was probably fast enough to catch him.  The thought of danger just did not cross my mind at that moment.   

Sunday morning, I took a taxi out to the Hassan II Mosque for a tour of the immense structure.  I am really intrigued by Islamic architecture because the detail is just amazing.  Most mosques don’t allow non-Muslim visitors, so I like to take advantage of those that do.  The minaret at Hassan II is actually the tallest religious structure in the world at 210 meters (60-stories).  I was amazed at the facts relating to its construction, which cost 585 million Euro and was financed entirely by mandatory, police-enforced public donations.  The grandeur of the structure stands in stark contrast to the surrounding neighborhoods.  It really goes to show the power of the government and the role of religion in the lives of Moroccans. 

Hassan II Mosque: The main hall can fit 25,000 people

Here's the neighborhood that sits just across the street from the mosque

After seeing the mosque, I continued the religious theme of the day by stopping next at the Casablanca Cathedral.  It is actually quite beautiful from the outside, but I almost started laughing when I entered to find a makeshift art museum.  I don’t think any religious services are happening at this cathedral!

Looks like a cathedral from the outside...

The inside doesn't look like any cathedral I have seen before!

I noticed a series of tents set up adjacent to the cathedral so, of course, I had to see what was happening.  Lots of people were watching from the perimeter because the entrance was blocked off by security/police. Inside were just a few people in suits and Minnie Mouse and one of the seven dwarfs.  Wait, what?!? Yup, that’s right…Minnie Mouse and a dwarf were just hanging out with the businessmen. 

I still don't know why Minnie and a dwarf were at this event!

So far, this was shaping up to be one of the funniest trips I have taken in a long time...  

Saturday, 11 May 2013

Layover Weekend


I have had some crazy flight itineraries in the past, but my trip from Zurich to Casablanca may be the most ridiculous ever.  From Zurich to Dusseldorf to Madrid to Casablanca, my trip included a 7-hour layover in Germany and an overnight stop in Spain.  I suppose I could have just purchased new flights when my schedule kept changing, but I felt badly about wasting company money.  The result: 4 countries in two days!

My first stop in Dusseldorf gave me the chance to actually explore the city beyond just the 26.2 miles I spent running through the streets a couple weeks earlier.  I put my luggage into storage and hopped on the first train into the city center.  Everywhere was buzzing with activity because there was a football game that afternoon.  It would have been even more exciting if I had people to watch the game with, but I still enjoyed the energy of the everyone around me. 

In my mind, one thing that distinguishes Germany from other European countries is the modern element of its cities.  Of course this is inevitable when everything is bombed during the wars, but it just feels slightly different than most other countries in Europe.  That said, Dusseldorf has really embraced some modern architectural designs – particularly with the Gehry buildings by the harbor. 

Streets look like other parts of Europe...only cleaner and newer

Cool architecture makes up for lack of old buildings in Dusseldorf!

I would love to know what these apartments look like from the inside...

One of my favorite aspects of European lifestyle is the extent to which people enjoy life in the city centers.  It seems like every Saturday, the main shopping districts are packed with residents and tourists alike.  There is no need for shopping malls or mega supermarkets because people are comfortable walking around without their cars.  Europeans like to spend hours at their local café that has been around for generations, rather than national chain restaurants.  In my opinion, the only American cities that rival this sense of urban community are Boston, San Francisco, and Washington DC.     

Just another day in paradise.

After a relaxing day in Dusseldorf, I returned to the airport and boarded my next flight to Madrid.  I hate to admit it but those flight attendants on Iberia just looked miserable.  You’d think that Spanish people who are lucky enough to have jobs would at least put on a smile for the half-filled planes!

My short time in Madrid almost felt like being back at home (in a strange way).  The warm weather was a welcome change from central Europe and it felt good to be able to communicate with the hotel driver in his local language.  Even though I only had enough time for a quick night of sleep and a jamon bocadillo for breakfast before heading back to the airport, it felt good to be back in Spain!  

Thank you, Spain, for not allowing these hideous shoes!

Friday, 10 May 2013

Zurich


From the moment you enter Zurich, it is clear that this city does everything at a higher level!  The airport is impeccably clean and the baggage claim tells you exactly how many minutes until your bags arrive (and, by the way, the belt is so quiet that you can barely hear it moving).  Trains to the city come every few minutes and the vending machines to purchase tickets even accept euros. (Can you imagine?  It would be like the El in Chicago allowing payment with Canadian dollars). 

I was training someone in Zurich and he thought I was crazy for suggesting public transportation.  What he didn’t realize is that it saves our company a bit of money and is actually quicker than taking a taxi.  In case you’re wondering, trains in Switzerland are also impossibly quiet, as are the people who ride them.  It’s a wonderful thing. 

Zurich, itself, is such a beautiful place and the city center is so compact that you can walk almost anywhere.  My last time in Zurich was a couple years ago and it was so much fun because I got to see friends from both of my MBA programs.  We enjoyed some downtown bars and restaurants, hiked through the countryside, and even had a fun low-key night with good food and wine. 
2011 trip to Zurich with two friends from CEIBS

2011 trip with friends from ESADE

Enjoying the countryside (2011)

This trip was a lot quicker and busier with work, but I managed to get one night to see two of my good friends from ESADE.  We met for dinner and I got to see their new baby, who is so cute.  She allowed me to hold her for what felt like an hour and didn’t even cry once the entire night.  If I ever have a baby, I want it to be mute and cute just like this one!    

Is she cute or what??

I usually don’t care about food but the restaurants at my hotel are really something special.  I almost felt guilty eating gourmet meals every night of the week.  Also, I had to get a picture in the private dining room, which is filled with two floors of wine.  When can I move in?

Coolest private dining room ever!

After eating way more than I should for every meal of the trip, I decided to go for a sunset walk on my last night.  As I walked through the cobblestone streets, I was in awe of my surroundings.  Zurich may not be the most exciting city in the world, but it is absolutely one of the most refined. 

View of the Grossmünster from the river

Overlooking the city from Lindenhof Square

I returned to the hotel feeling very fortunate for my job.  Zurich is almost like a Disney version of the perfect European city and I got to experience at no cost.  If I ever have the chance to move back to Europe, I would go to Switzerland without hesitation.  I just need to double my salary because this place is expensive! 

Last night in Zurich 2013

Sunday, 28 April 2013

Cologne and Dusseldorf

Here I am in Germany, officially starting the next stage of my life.  I won’t be going back to Chicago after six weeks for another transition period.  The small selection of clothes in my suitcase will be my wardrobe until the next time I go home – whenever that may be.  My routine will change every two weeks, as I adapt to new colleagues, new cultures, and new ways of working.    

The view from my room was of the famous Cologne Cathedral and my view from the office was of a bridge that doubles as a climbing wall.  Normally I don’t even get a window in my workspace, so it was like a gift when I discovered I would have even the smallest taste of the outside world while I work.  It’s the little things that make a difference these days!

Here's the view from my room...


...and the view from my office window

On Saturday, I decided to get lost in the city and just go wherever the streets took me.  There isn’t much to do in Cologne and I had been there before, so it’s nice to enjoy a day without feeling obligated to see all the major sites.  I scored a really cool souvenir at used book market that convenes by the riverfront on the weekends. No, it wasn’t a book in German.  It was a map of Chicago...in German...from 1902.  I figured it would make a good gift for my boss or even for me, when I actually settle down again.  While shopping, I also ran across an impromptu parade with various cheerleading troupes.  Who doesn’t love random parades on a Saturday afternoon?           

Here's the first group doing a little routine


Not your typical cheerleaders but still hilariously entertaining!

Sunday was another marathon – this time in Dusseldorf.  I know, it has been less than 2 weeks since the Boston Marathon.  I know, I’m not even IN Dusseldorf.  However, my original schedule had me in Dusseldorf and I can’t pass up a race that’s so convenient.  I arrived WAY too early and the weather felt extremely cold.  So, I actually sat around in a subway station for almost an hour like a homeless person.  Eventually, I decided that the subway thing was stupid so I relocated to a bakery that smelled of warm deliciousness, bought myself a pastry, and sat in there for a while!

Finally, it was time to start walking to the race start.  I was reluctant to leave my jacket at the gear check, but I knew I would regret it if I had to run 42 kilometers with a North Face shell (and I certainly wasn’t going to throw away my only good jacket somewhere along the course)!

I always think running is such a unique way to see a new city and the Dusseldorf Marathon was no exception.  The homes were beautiful and the city was amazingly clean and orderly.  It is Germany, after all.  I was struck by the high security presence, which I attributed to the horrible events in Boston that were still fresh in everyone’s minds. 

By around mile 20, I was ready to be finished running. The last six miles seem to be my breaking point in most marathons but I was particularly worn out this time.  I started walking and could barely motivate myself to jog once again.  Of course, this happened to be where the majority of the photographers were stationed, so I got lots of hilarious candid pictures that looked like I was just out for a leisurely stroll on the streets of Dusseldorf! 

I act like I'm not in the middle of a race!

Even though my body was staging a revolt, I’ll admit that the finish line was very cool.  People were lined up along a higher street, looking down onto the runners as they approached the final turn.  My time was surprisingly respectable for having walked most of the last few miles.  I retrieved my bags, grabbed a few berliners (aka jelly donuts), and walked slowly back to the finish line to cheer on the other finishers. 

Overlooking the finish line from the street above


Corporate partners had their own tents with food.  I was jealous!

After enjoying the race atmosphere for a while, I decided it was time to venture back to Cologne.  During the train ride, I felt really satisfied with my choice to run.  The experience proved to me that people would still come out to cheer for runners, despite the recent bombings in Boston.  Even though security was higher, nothing else about the race felt all that much different to me. 

I returned to Cologne, took a long shower, and walked (very slowly) back to the Cathedral for an evensong.  Even though I couldn’t understand a single word of the service, it was amazing just to be part of the experience.  I thought back to the time my family visited me in London and I went to an evensong at Westminster with my Mom.  If I had unlimited funds, I would fly her out to Germany just to experience this with me because I know she would love it too.  


I started here but ended up in the choir loft...amazing acoustics!


The architectural detail is amazing