Shanghai

I can't believe how much has changed since I was last in Shanghai. Five years ago, I arrived at Pudong airport with a mix of enthusiasm and apprehension. It was my first time visiting Asia and I was unsure what I would encounter. Now, five years later, I am once again living in Asia. This time, however, I felt like a pro. I walked through the airport with a sense of nostalgia, and I was excited to spend a few weeks in a city that I once called home.

My arrival as a businessman is a lot different than it was as a student. Instead of stepping into a taxi with my school address printed in Chinese, I was greeted by a signboard and ushered into a black, chauffeur-driven Mercedes. I arrived at the hotel, and the elevator catapulted me to the lobby on the 91st Floor. Looking out over the city, I felt a sense of dominance that I never would have predicted when I was attending job fairs and hopelessly searching for an employer who would give me a chance. The view of the Pearl Tower and the sprawling megacity was awe-inspiring. 

View from my hotel room on the 87th floor at night

View from my hotel the next morning

I decided to spend one day visiting my former school and reminiscing about all the fun times I had there. CEIBS is located very deep in the residential part of Pudong, so half of the experience is just getting there. I walked past the restaurants and bars I used to eat at with my classmates. The Thai place, the Vietnamese place, the Mexican place – all were seemingly unchanged since 2010. I went into the Carrefour where I bought my groceries and supplies to get me through the semester. When I lived here before, I was committed to trying something new in each visit, and this trip was no exception. With an unidentifiable dumpling in my hand, I walked the last few blocks to the campus. 

Returning to CEIBS, where I spent a semester of my MBA

The CEIBS library sits at the center of the campus

My timing was perfect, as the school was preparing for the latest batch of students to arrive. Some things stayed the same, but the campus had doubled in size since I was there. I snuck into the new dorms. They were so much better than where I lived. It was strange to not know anyone, but I was glad to go back.

5 years have passed since my opening ceremony at CEIBS

On my way to the Metro, I walked past a day spa where I enjoyed countless massages for incredibly bargain prices. I considered going inside for a foot massage before realizing that I am now staying in hotel with one of the best spas in the city. After a short internal debate, I opted for a spa at the hotel. Is this a sign that I now value quality more than cheap prices? Absolutely.

One afternoon, I rode the metro to The Bund and looked out at the beautiful views of the skyscrapers on the other side of the river. In 2010, my hotel was the tallest building in sight, but it is now being eclipsed by another, even taller tower still under construction. The rate of growth in China is still unmatched by any developed country.

I walked down Nanjing Road where I used to shop, and it was even busier than I had remembered. So many people trying to sell me copy watches, massages, and other overpriced junk I didn’t need. I considered going back to my favorite Shanghai-style dumpling stand, but my more mature self realized that it probably wouldn’t be a good idea to eat the mystery meat when I can now afford so much better. 

At one point, someone walked past (who I can only assume is a celebrity), and suddenly a swarm of people were running behind like maniacs with their cameras out to capture the moment. I’m sure some of them didn’t even realize whom they were chasing after, but the mob mentality was too strong to avoid. Moments such as those always bring a smile to my face because they remind me that the locals act so differently than people in the developed world.

Another day, I  went to the Yuyuan Market. Even though I know it is a complete tourist trap, I still enjoyed the ambiance when I lived in Shanghai before. It turns out the rest of China must have also learned about this place because it was absolutely packed this time. After shuffling through and getting pushed more times than I could count, I made my exit as quickly as possible.

The insanely busy Yuyuan Market

Western conveniences everywhere - even in this "historic" market

In the middle of my trip, I moved to another hotel in Xintiandi – one of the most fashionable areas of the city. Even though it is also very touristy, the architecture is so unique and there are more sophisticated shops and restaurants to explore. Pudong is amazing for views, but nothing beats Xintiandi for style.

Lobby of my hotel in Xintiandi

My trendy hotel room in Xintiandi District

Beautiful buildings in the French Concession

The final thing on my wish list was getting some custom tailored clothes. I couldn’t find the name of my tailor from 2010, so I asked a local teammate if he had any suggestions. Without even hesitating, he called someone for a private fitting in my hotel room. I picked out the material for my suit and some dress shirts and felt like I had gotten away with robbery when they told me the price. A few days later, the garments arrived and I was really satisfied with the results. I may be biased, but Shanghai is still the place to go for custom tailored clothing. 

Plenty of luxury shopping in Shanghai, but nothing beats custom tailoring

Much of my trip to Shanghai was spent reliving my study abroad days, yet on an elevated level. It was such a fascinating place to live as an MBA student, and it’s equally as amazing to visit as a professional. With something for everyone, I’m sure this will be far from my last trip to the Pearl of the Orient.  

Pearl Tower - an architectural icon of Shanghai

Fukuoka, Japan (and the Yamakasa festival)

My trip to Fukuoka started exactly like I expected it to... with a dated airport and luggage that was perfectly arranged on the belt.

Perfectly arranged luggage belt

Japan is known for precision in everything, kind and humble people, and really good food. However, I also think of it as a country that, in some ways, is stuck in the past. I shouldn't really have this opinion after only visiting Japan a couple times, but I was just never "wowed" by the architecture or any semblance of a progressive lifestyle. For me, the trip to Fukuoka was a good opportunity to see another part of Japan that I would otherwise never have any reason to visit. 

I stepped into the taxi, and noticed the seats covered with white doilies. Interesting. The driver was dressed in a black blazer and white gloves, which underscored the formality and attention to hygiene that is so common in Japan. 

It was raining, so I just spent the evening shopping in the mall adjacent to the hotel. Although most of the clothes are too small for me, I will admit that it is really fun to shop in Japan and see all the interesting styles and trends in the stores. In the center of the mall, there was a giant sculpture that intrigued me. I took a picture without knowing what it was:

Interesting sculpture in the center of the mall

The next morning, the local team told me about this festival called Yamakasa, which dates back over 700 years. It just happens to be celebrated during the first two weeks of July and the big finale was coinciding with my visit. I love when timing works out coincidentally like this. 

The festival pays remembrance to a priest that saved Hakata from a terrible plague by being carried around on a platform and throwing holy water at the people. In the modern day festival, teams of men from different districts carry floats along the same route that the priest took. The "race" happens at dawn and I was told that I must attend!

I set my alarm ridiculously early, but I was lucky that the starting point (Kushida shrine) was just a few blocks from my hotel. As I made my way down the street, I noticed lots of other people walking in the same direction. Most were drinking, which made me realize they had probably been out the entire night before. 

As I got to the race route, there were so many people lining the sidewalk that I could barely move. I then noticed large groups of men lining the streets wearing hilarious outfits that basically looked like a sumo wrestler's diaper with a smock on the top half. I'm sure there is a lot of deep tradition in the outfits, but I don't think anyone could pay me enough to wear something like that in front of thousands of people. 

The procession started with some groups of men and children that just walked the course without carrying any of the large floats over their heads. I could hear drumming in the distance and the anticipation started building as I looked forward to what I was about to see. 

Suddenly, a large group would start running down the street, carrying the large floats with more men on top, who looked like they were directing and motivating the team. It also looked like incredibly hard work for the men who were bearing the carrying the huge platforms on their backs.

One group runs down the street

Each float was a little different, but the general procession was very similar for each team. I loved watching all the enthusiasm and passion with which everyone came running down the street to honor this great tradition. 

This looks like a lot of work for the runners

A larger group goes by with a more elaborate float

Another float continues down the street

Gradually, the sun began to rise and the spectators began leaving. Through all the excitement, I never really learned whether this race is a competition of speed, or if the float decorations are what define the winner. Or, perhaps, if there was no winner at all and the entire event was solely for the purpose of building a team from each district and honoring a great tradition of Fukuoka. Despite not knowing the details, I was enjoyed being able to witness such a great cultural tradition. 

- - - - - - - - 

During the weekend, I walked through the city center but did not manage to get any pictures of the unremarkable, 70's style buildings. The shopping was surprisingly good, and some of the tiny Japanese restaurants were quite charming. 

A large shopping arcade filled with cheap souvenirs

A charming shrine tucked between modern buildings

Although I didn't love everything about the city, there's no denying that Japanese food is always worth the trip. Fukuoka is known to be one of the best places to get ramen. Although I never seek out ramen, I always find it surprisingly satisfying. I need to remember that real ramen in Japan is nothing like those cheap instant noodle packets that you can buy in the US for 25 cents!

Of course I can't come to Japan without getting sushi. Even though it is surprisingly expensive here, my meals are never a disappointment. The seafood is just so fresh and all the restaurants seem to offer such a wide variety. I even went to a sushi-go-round restaurant (I thought they were only tourist traps in Europe), and it was some of the best I have ever had.

Room service sushi is such a nice way to end the day

The chef works hard behind the sushi-go-round. We ordered a la carte.

The local team boasted about how Fukuoka has been ranked in the world's top 10 for quality of life, and I can definitely see how the city would be a really nice place to live. It is a big enough city to have lots of opportunities for people, but not so big that traffic and congestion becomes a big issue. However, I wouldn't give it such high marks for tourism. I was lucky enough to come during a really interesting festival. But, if it weren't for that, I don't think I would have found it to be a very memorable place.

Ekaterinburg, Russia

Russia may not love the United States (and most European countries) right now, but I was really excited to cross another intriguing destination off my bucket list. I'll admit that Ekaterinburg wasn't my first choice of Russian cities to visit, but the randomness of it was charming in itself.

For a while, I wasn't even sure if the trip would happen because the visa process was such an ordeal. To apply for a business visa, I needed an official invitation letter from the Russian government, which takes about a month to fulfill. The letter must then be sent (in its original form) to me in Hong Kong, and attached with a series of other forms and government documents that come from my local office. 

When I finally had all the requests in place, I arrived at the consulate and had to wait just for the sake of waiting. When I finally spoke with someone, he informed me that the normal processing time was 2 weeks (which I didn't have enough time for), but I could get it rushed in 3 days for an ridiculous fee. I couldn't help but wonder: Does it really take 2 weeks to attach a sticker in my passport?

At the end, the entire process cost almost US$700, but I had a multiple entry visa for one year. I should have been eligible for a 3-year visa with my American passport, but they said I could only get one year with a rush application. The whole ordeal taught me one thing: Russia clearly does not have a strategy to grow its economy through tourism! 

I flew business class on Aeroflot, which was surprisingly luxurious. The meal was a 7-course dinner (clearly geared towards large Russian people), and the seats were so far apart that I could have squeezed about 3 rows of economy class passengers in my space. I finally arrived in Ekaterinburg around 3AM, but the sun never actually sets in the summer so I was treated to a beautiful mix of amber and violet hues in the sky. 

Landing in Ekaterinburg at 3AM

Unfortunately, my luck ended when I reached the baggage claim and learned that my luggage did not arrive with me. It's no fun to be without any clean clothes after almost 24 hours of traveling, but I was too tired to care at that point. I raised a claim with the attendant (who spoke no English) and searched for my hotel driver. 

The next morning, I met up with my coworker and explored a bit of the city center. Despite having a population of over 1.3 million, Ekat felt like a small city and it was easy to walk almost everywhere. We were both tired from flying (and I was wearing the same clothes from the day before), so we just went through the pedestrian shopping street. The Ruble has fallen drastically this year, so it felt like the entire city was on sale.

The shopping district looked very "Soviet" to me. Lots of square cement buildings, people in ridiculous costumes trying to hand out advertisement pamphlets, and quite a few imposing statues looking down on everyone. None of the people looked particularly happy, although I suppose I wouldn't be happy either if I lived in such an economically depressed country. 

It is difficult for me to pass a status without posing for a picture with it

Not sure what this guy is doing, but it was worthy of a picture

The city did not feel crowded at all. Buildings were all spread far apart from each other, and my hotel was located adjacent to a lake that had a very quaint ambiance. In a complete contrast to me life in Hong Kong, I enjoyed being in a place where I could have some personal space and where I didn't completely stand out from the crowd. 

View from my hotel room

Several of the days had beautiful weather and I was amused to see hundreds of people playing in this giant fountain near the hotel. Some were shooting people with water guns, others were just filling empty soda bottles with water to pour on other people. It was such innocent fun that almost felt like the way America must have been in the older, simpler times. At first, I wondered whether people only get attacked with water from other people they know, but I learned the hard way when a huge container of water was dumped on my head. 

People celebrate warm weather by playing in the public fountain.

There are several beautiful Orthodox churches scattered along the city. The most visible was Cathedral on the Blood, which garnered its name from an imperial execution that happened on the very same land by the Bolsheviks in 1918. The Russian Orthodox church was built on the hill in 2000, which explains the freshness of the building. 

Looking up at the Cathedral on the Blood

I went on a Sunday, so it was busy with worshipers. The entrance on the basement level was filled with religious paintings and statues. People were lighting candles and walking through at a relaxed pace. We then climbed the stairs to reach the main sanctuary, which was actually quite small. No one really stands for very long, but rather, walks through slowly while the priests conduct their prayers. It was interesting to see, but I didn't understand anything that was happening since it was all in Russian. 

A woman lights candles in the basement of the Church on the Blood

People worship in the sanctuary level

From there, we walked along the river to another church that looked inviting with its shiny gold domes. The inside was much less busy than our first destination, but the ambiance and decoration was very similar. 

Outside of Khram Bolshoy Zlatoust Cathedral

Another woman prays at the church

Overall, there really isn't much for tourists to do in Ekaterinburg. The city has a system of very old trams that make the B-Line in Boston look cutting-edge. Even the architecture was largely unremarkable, other than a government building that is impossible to miss. I didn't go inside, but still felt it was worthy of a picture. 

One of the old trams that traverse the city center

Probably the most beautiful (and frightening) building in the city

One day, we went outside the city to visit the Ural Military Glory museum, which (by the name alone) sounded incredibly interesting. Growing up, I have heard about the history of world conflicts from a Western perspective, so I was excited to see how Russians portray their military history. It turns out, the museum was more about displaying military vehicles and other large equipment. 

Tanks lined up outside the museum

Lots of rail equipment from the USSR was available to see

I almost got run over by a train :)

Inside, the display was a lot different. The first level had old luxury cars (which were very chic). There were even some American brands showcased here, which was surprising to me (partially because they are American and partially because I didn't think Ford made luxury cars...)

An old Ford sits proudly among the luxury cars

I'm not sure what this is, but I want one

The next level had cars that normal people would drive around. Even my coworkers were sharing stories about the cars that their parents and grandparents would drive growing up. I have to admit that none of the brands looked even remotely familiar. 

One of many old fashioned cars on display

The top level was mostly military uniforms and other random artifacts from the past century. Overall, I really enjoyed the museum. There were lots of cool things to look at, without feeling like you are being dragged through a history lesson. 

Old military uniforms looked surprisingly fashionable to me

On the way back to the city, we decided to stop inside another Russian Orthodox church that looked interesting. The architecture was more traditional, and we were lucky enough to witness a service going on. The men were allowed inside with shorts, but my female coworker was required to cover her head out of respect. Again, I had no clue what was happening but I find it interesting to witness how different religions conduct their weekly services. 

Front gate of the church near Ural Military Glory museum

People worship inside the cathedral

Much different than the onion-domed cathedrals in the city

Overall, Ekaterinburg was a very cute and interesting place to visit. However, it was quite obvious that the economy is struggling and that life is not easy for people living there. I was lucky to visit during one of the few warm periods, but I would be absolutely miserable if I had to spend an entire winter there. Compared to Hong Kong, it was really nice to have wide open space and fresh air, but I definitely missed the vibrant and forward-looking atmosphere. Time to go back home.

Vivid Sydney

When I heard Vivid Sydney was taking place during the time that I was in Australia, it didn't take much convincing to get me up there! 

I took a Greyhound coach from Canberra, which is much less ghetto than its US counterpart. Arriving in mid-afternoon gave me the chance to walk around the city, do some shopping, and see some of my favorite sites before the lights went on. I was amazed at how easily I could navigate the CBD after only one trip there. 

I checked into my Air BNB, which was a really beautiful home in Darlinghurst.  Compared with the sky-high hotel prices, this was a no-brainer. With such a local experience and a much larger living space, it's no wonder why AirBNB is becoming so popular. 

My friend arrived from the suburbs and we decided that a bottle of wine was in order before venturing out to the festival. When we did eventually make it out, our first stop was University of Sydney.

Even before arriving at the campus, I could hear the music and I was getting excited like a little kid on Christmas. We watched the show for at least a half hour, and I was surprised that none of the segments were repeating. This was a great start to the night. 

Just one of many beautiful pictures at Sydney Uni

From the university, we walked through CBD and Chinatown, on our way to the fountain show at Darling Harbour. This part of the city was completely packed with people, and the show was admittedly shorter and less impressive than it had been hyped. 

Rather than waiting for a seat at one of the tourist traps in Darling Harbour, we walked back to Chinatown area and found a great Vietnamese restaurant. 

The next and final stop was Circular Quay, which has the biggest concentration of attractions. On our way over, people were walking in the opposite direction in droves, which made me a little nervous. I looked at my watch and noticed it was already almost 11pm!

Circular Quay, as viewed from Park Hyatt hotel

We first saw a silent (yet intricate) kaleidoscope effect at the Museum of Contemporary Art. The various geometric patterns on the building were mesmerizing. Next to that was an interactive exhibit, where people got to make the lights move around as if they were butterflies in a garden of colorful mushrooms. 

Museum of Contemporary Art

Interactive light display at Vivid Sydney

Of course the most iconic structure to be lit up was the Sydney Opera House. By the time we got there, the lights were just silently dancing around the roofs, but I think the show is set to music in the earlier hours. Even without the music, the silent display was still beautiful to watch.  

Andy and me, with the Opera House lit up in the background

Sydney Opera house gets decorated for Vivid

Further around the quay, there were countless of other light-based exhibits - each produced by different artists and with deeper meanings. For example, a series of branch-like tree sculptures called "Arclight" was meant to represent various environmental phenomena such a temperature, wind speed, and humidity. 

Arclight, with the Sydney Harbour Bridge in the background

Even something as simple as a lit-up pig has deeper meaning if people take the time to learn more about the story behind it.  This exhibit called "Entitle" represents the overly-indulgent contemporary lifestyle. I think these more thought-provoking exhibits are what make Vivid Sydney a great destination for all ages.  

Entitle Exhibit at Vivid

I know I'm a tourist, but Sydney is just one of those cities with immeasurable "wow factor". For many of my family and friends, Australia would be the trip of a lifetime, and I'm so fortunate to have been there twice already. 

If anyone told me they were visiting Australia in late-May / early-June, I would absolutely suggest that they put Vivid Sydney on their list of must-see highlights (make sure to spend more than one night there because there is just too much to see). The city is a joy to visit in any time of year, but the lights just add an extra layer of mystique and fun that most people don't get to experience. 

I have heard that this idea of projecting lights onto buildings is already growing in popularity, with similar events in Moscow and Berlin. It would be difficult to match the childhood wonder that I experienced in Sydney, but I would love to see what the other cities have in their arsenal for such an event.