Muscat, Oman

When I think about the Middle East, several things come to mind: arrogant people, socially conservative behavior, desert landscapes, and hot & humid weather. Oil wealth has rapidly transformed several countries from this region into global economic powerhouses, but people’s attitudes have not adapted to Western morals. I have never been a huge fan of the Middle East, but my visit to Muscat showed me that Oman is unlike its neighbors in many ways.

For one, I was surprised to see so many Omanis working at the hotel since locals would rarely take a job like that in Qatar or UAE. Even in Saudi Arabia, locals are just starting to be forced upon payrolls with limited effectiveness due to their dismal overall work ethic. Unlike neighboring countries, Omanis can be found throughout the workforce and contributing to the local economy.

Don’t just take my word for it. The population of Oman is about 3 million, of which 577k are non-nationals (19%). Compare this with Qatar – a country with 2.2 million people, of which almost 90% are foreign workers. The United Arab Emirates is similar – with over 80% of the population consisting of immigrants. Those two countries really are built on the backs of immigrants. The statistics may seem arbitrary, but I really think the imbalance of power creates a tiered social class structure where locals consider themselves “too good” for many service industries. This is just not the case in Oman, where local hospitality is evident from the moment you walk into any establishment. 

I was also pleasantly surprised by the landscape, which is so different from the barren deserts that comprise much of the region.  Looking out of my window, I could see mountains framing the city. During monsoon season, I was told the mountains actually receive a lot of rain and fog – quite unusual for the Arabian Peninsula.

Muscat skyline - White and more white.

The weather in Muscat is definitely hot, but it felt less humid than other nearby cities. I even went running along the Corniche in the mornings, and did not feel like I was drenched in sweat. Running along the water was actually quite beautiful, although I didn’t see another runner outside during my entire time there.

One of the biggest tourist attractions in Muscat – at least for me – is the Grand Mosque. I took a (surprisingly expensive) taxi from my hotel to visit and I was excited to have the opportunity to tour freely, without regard to my religion. The mosque is located right next to a highway, and the building is much shorter than other mosques in and around Muscat. In contrast to the less-than spectacular curb appeal, I was absolutely amazed when I walked through the complex. It is evident that this mosque is a huge sense of pride for people and I felt privileged to get an up-close look.

View of the mosque from the surrounding gardens

Looking at the main musalla from the outer perimeter

Felt like I was watching the musical "Chicago"

Aside from the main prayer hall (musalla), there was another smaller musalla for women and a series of covered passageways along the perimeter of the grounds. I was lucky to be among a small group of tourists that day, so I could move freely and take a lot of pictures.

Doorway to the women's musalla is much smaller

A woman walks through a quiet corridor

Inside each musalla, the immaculate hand-woven carpet and sparkling Swarovski crystal chandeliers were more beautiful than the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. I love all the detail that goes into these buildings – almost reminiscent of the cathedrals in Europe.

Amazing array of colors inside the musalla

Looking up at the chandelier

Detail in every corner of the main prayer hall

On my last afternoon in Muscat, I passed the time by taking a running tour of the city. I found the overall environment to be unlike anywhere I have visited before. The buildings were all whitewashed and free of character. There was very little advertising on the streets, and everything appeared very clean. Unlike other desert cities, Muscat appeared to have more trees and vegetation. 

There were no skyscrapers like Dubai or Abu Dhabi, so the minarets remained among the tallest structures – dotting the skyline in front of the jagged mountains.

As I passed along the Corniche, some people were enjoying the afternoon by calmly sitting in small groups along the water. There were no intense sports, very few swimsuits, and certainly no drinking. A few children ran around while their parents walked slowly behind them.

Conservative attire at the beach

 

Doesn't feel like the Middle East to me!

I ran past a few streets with cafes overlooking the water (including Tim Horton’s and Starbucks)! It was fun to see people look at me as I ran past – an unusual sight, I’m sure. But aside from the occasional stares, I almost felt like I was in Southern California or Arizona. 

Feeling right at home with Cold Stone and Tim Horton's

View of the coastline from the corniche in Muscat

Of course people are dressed in traditional attire, and the Omani style of dishdasha is also a little different than neighboring countries. The Ankle-length gown has a decorative tassel hanging down from the collar, which was traditionally dipped in perfume. Most of the men also wear a small hat called a “muzzar”. Unlike the long headscarf (keffiyeh) that I wore in Saudi Arabia last month, the muzzar made the overall look appear much less regal / formal. Most women wore dark abayas, but they did not always cover their heads or faces.

Three men in traditional attire, sitting by the water

Men in traditional attire in the lobby of my hotel

From my perspective, cultural traditions in Oman remain strong, but the people also have a more modern outlook. Women can drive. Locals can drink (sparingly). People are proud to welcome tourists. My hotel even has multiple bars and nightclubs, which are frequented by locals and tourists alike. Luxury hotels in Muscat make it easy to forget that you are in a Muslim country.

Sitting at a clear piano in one of the hotel bars

I wish I had time to see more of Oman, but the little that I did see in Muscat left me with a very positive impression. Oman has such a deep history as a strategic trading port, yet the rapid rate of growth is still reaching its potential. It will be interesting to see how the country develops in the years ahead, as Oman takes a different strategy than its more flashy neighbors. Cities like Dubai will always be more well-known for its distinctive and luxurious tourist attractions, but I would recommend Muscat for a more authentic local experience.

Guangzhou, China

Sometimes I forget that China is such a rapidly developing country until I see the transformation happening right in front of my eyes. 

I just spent the past couple days in Guangzhou - a place that most Americans have probably never heard of, despite the fact that it is larger than any city in the USA, with 14 million people. 

Traveling by train from Hong Kong takes approximately two hours, with only a few stops along the way.  After arriving, we went through passport control just like an airport, and within minutes, we were on our way to the hotel.

My first impression of the city was that it felt very new, with many modern skyscrapers that were spaced far enough apart to not feel overwhelming. When we arrived at the hotel, the 25-story building was dwarfed by the much taller buildings around it, but we were told that it was the highest structure in the area when it was opened only 7 years ago.

Construction is everywhere in Guangzhou.

My room was extremely modern by design, and I started wondering how it would work if I was sharing with anyone... Let's just say that privacy cannot be a top priority for anyone staying in a room without walls separating the bathroom from the bedroom. The design felt suitable for such a forward-looking city, but it did not feel like China at all.

The shower opens right up to the bedroom with no privacy whatsoever

Guangzhou is a big manufacturing hub, and there is sadly not much for tourists to do. Looking out the window, I had the view of a very artificial park which would be good for a short morning run. When I took a closer look, I actually found that there is a shopping mall underneath - quintessential Chinese!

Looking down on the park that runs through the CBD in Guangzhou

Walking through the park in Guangzhou

As the night fell on Guangzhou, many of the buildings started lighting up in a vast array of colors. Even the park has hues of red, blue, green, and purple emitting from the sidewalks. The lights create a fun, playful atmosphere that belies the otherwise lackluster city. 

The modern buildings light up every night in Guangzhou

The symbol of Guangzhou is Canton Tower - a thin, modern structure with a unique design. Unfortunately, I never made it inside the tower during my short visit, but I learned that was the tallest structure in the world upon opening (2010) and is now the 5th tallest free-standing structure in the world.

In a city that is growing at such a rapid pace, I am sure the views from the observatory of Canton Tower are incredible. Even from street level, the skyline was dotted by buildings and cranes in seemingly equal proportions.  

Canton Tower at dusk

I asked some of the hotel staff about the history of Guangzhou and was surprised to learn that it dates back over two thousand years. However, it is obvious that this is a city looking forward, as the memories of the past have been all but erased in this modern metropolis.

Hysan Trail Run - Hong Kong

I can finally call myself a trail runner! 

After running only on paved roads for basically my entire life, the amazing landscape of Hong Kong (and some great new friends) have inspired me to discover the joys of trail racing. I found out about the Hysan Half Marathon and thought it would be the perfect event to test my novice skill level.

Race day morning was pretty typical, with an early alarm and a carb-filled breakfast. When I stepped outside, I was surprised to feel a light rain that was not in the forecast. Normally, this wouldn't be a big problem, but the unpredictable terrain made me nervous about slipping on the rocks and leaves - particularly since I did not get a chance to buy trail running shoes in advance.

The race organizers arranged shuttle buses to the starting line, which was convenient since it was all the way up in the mountains of the New Territories (Tai Lam). The bus ride was really entertaining because people kept yelling at the driver in Cantonese, which I can only assume was because he was getting lost. Eventually, we got to the park where the race was set to begin. I found my group and we quietly prepared ourselves for the race. 

Great representation from the Out in HK group!

The starting line was so different than a typical road race. There were no corrals, no seeding by pace group, and random picnic tables serving as roadblocks. Suddenly we were off, and it was like a free-for-all to get to the road.

Race staging area - including picnic table roadblocks!

Starting line mayhem

I started the race with another friend and we kept a relaxed pace, but still managed to pass quite a few people. Had I known that the entry into the trails would be a bottleneck staircase, I would have probably pushed even faster. Anyhow, the wait was not too long and the first trails were relatively wide. I had never run in this area before, but there were some amazing views from this part of Hong Kong. 

Beautiful views throughout the course

The next section was a steep downhill on a winding road, which allowed us to let gravity do most of the work. By the bottom of the hill, I looked behind me to find my running partner and he was oddly not there. I figured we would not be running together for the entire race anyhow, so I just forged ahead and used the opportunity to really pick up my pace.  

Shortly after, the course got much harder because the trail almost disappeared entirely as we climbed a steep hill. I found myself pushing through branches and leaves, while also looking down to make sure I was not falling in a pothole or veering from the course. I found the uphill section to be somewhat fun, but the downhill section was more stressful because I was afraid of slipping without any good footing. It almost felt like skiing down a really narrow double black diamond. 

Each new section brought new challenges and exciting elements to overcome, but I found myself feeling like it was the race that never ended.

Another candid shot from an easier paved section

A runner forges ahead through the rocky trail

Two runners focus on the trail

At the last checkpoint, I was sure that we must be close to the end, but I asked the volunteer and she said that we still had 5km remaining. My legs have never been so tired in a half marathon before, and the elevation was really taking a toll. Soon after this checkpoint, we merged with the slow runners from the 13k race. On one hand, the slow runners added yet another set of obstacles to the course, but on the other hand, it was encouraging to whiz past so many people.

The end of the race came seemingly out of nowhere, and it brought us right back to the park where we began. I enjoyed being cheered by the other members from my running club when I came through the gate, and I felt accomplished from the challenge that had just been completed. 

Even though this race was only a half marathon, the huge elevation gains/losses made it feel like a lot longer. I love trail running because it requires a lot more mental focus. In these races, it is not possible to turn off your brain because you must constantly be aware of the terrain. I found myself much more stressed on certain parts because I was nervous about losing my footing or holding back the people behind me. However, the thrills of the course far outweighed the negative elements. 

Looking back on the elevation and route maps, it was cool to see the distance that we covered: 

Elevation Chart for the 21k course

 

Overall course map

Throughout the race, I did not pay any attention to the number of people in front of me, nor did I bring a watch to track my own time. I had no way of even predicting my goals, but I finished with the feeling that I pushed almost as fast as I could have gone. 

I was happy with my overall placement of 30th out of 635 runners in the half marathon. For my first trail race, finishing in the top 5% was very satisfying. The race organizers did a great job at arranging the course and managing the logistics. It was much more rustic than any other race I have done in the past, but I think that is the biggest appeal of trail running.  

Delhi, India

Of all the countries I have visited in my life, India has traditionally been the hardest for me to enjoy. Almost everything requires adaptation – from the heavy food to the blatant poverty. Even the service culture at 5-star hotels is much different than I have experienced in other countries. At the end of the day, I usually just close my door and savor the solitude. 

Don’t get me wrong – almost everyone I meet has the best intentions, and I am lucky to have many friends across the country. I just think the best way to approach every day in India is to appreciate the differences rather than getting annoyed by them. Locals want tourists to enjoy their time in India, and they are proud of their deep-rooted culture. In a world that is becoming more and more homogenous, it is actually refreshing to go to a country that is not trying to copy the latest global trends. 

After spending the past two weeks in Delhi, I can confidently say that it is the most comfortable Indian city for a westerner to visit. It still “feels” like India, but the roads are cleaner, the homeless people are less obvious, and it’s actually possible to walk around outside without every single person staring at you. 

On the weekend, I ventured out of the hotel without a driver and the doorman did not even try to stop me. I negotiated with a rickshaw driver for a ride to the metro and I actually rode on public transportation. Yes, it was crowded. Yes, people pushed. But I still did it, and I loved seeing the city through my own eyes rather than just the back seat of a car.  

What they say about crowded trains in India is true!

Best way to travel in India: Auto Rickshaw!

My first stop was Akshardham - the largest Hindu temple in the world. Security was very tight, and cameras were strictly prohibited (I even tried to bribe the security guard but it didn’t work). I did not spend much time walking through the complex because it looked very similar to many other temples I have visited in the past. To recap: I left my shoes in a booth before entering, I walked past elaborate marble sculptures, and I saw many people praying. It was fine, but nothing particularly memorable.   

Best views of Akshardham are from the metro platform 1 block away!

I then went to Connaught Place, which is a shopping district with distinctly British architecture. The shops were very Indian (and surprisingly overpriced), so I didn't really spend much time shopping. Sales clerks in India also tend to hover, which makes me uneasy when I just want to browse on my own.

European-style architecture around Connaught Place

I walked past a classic bakery called Wenger's and it looked so good that I was drawn inside to buy dessert. I almost forgot I was in India until I went outside and noticed this sign on one of the columns: 

You won't see a sign like this in the UK!

I will never understand why almost all buildings and streets in India are so dirty. As I walked through Connaught Place, I thought about how much potential it has to be a really upscale area, but proper maintenance is just completely lacking. Often, I see people sweeping the dust and dirt around in front of their properties, but it never seems to disappear. One of life’s mysteries, I suppose.

My last destination for the day was Humayun’s Tomb, which looks more like a palace than someone’s eternal resting place. 

Humayun's Tomb

From the outside, the building is grand and the Persian-style architecture somewhat resembles the Taj Mahal. The mausoleum took 7 years to construct, and is almost completely empty inside with the exception of the platform containing the emperor’s marble tomb. The site does not take too long to visit, but the grand architecture is absolutely worth a stop for anyone in Delhi. 

The tomb sits in the center of the giant building

Interior of the massive structure

On Sunday, I opted to stay inside the hotel for much of the day. The luxury hotels in India are truly a refuge from the outside world, and I just couldn’t convince myself to leave the perfectly manicured grounds and elaborate buffet restaurants. India is a great place for hotel lovers.  

View of the buffet restaurant in my hotel

Pool and manicured lawns of the hotel

That evening, one of the staff encouraged me to visit Hauz Khas Village – a shopping and nightlife district that caters to young, creative types. I really enjoyed the cool, unpretentious vibe there. The single winding street is lined with coffee shops, creative retail outlets, and low-key bars to pass the day. Without a doubt, this neighborhood is the hidden gem of Delhi.

Looking inside one of the retail boutiques in Hauz Khas Village

Nearby, there are also several temples that I enjoyed visiting. My favorite was Jagannath Temple, which I visited just as the sun was setting. It was a beautiful sight to see the brightly-colored sky framing the stark white marble of the temple. I don't really understand the religious traditions in India, but they are intriguing nonetheless. 

Ganesh statue inside Jagannath Temple

Jagannath Temple at sunset

An unknown tomb sits peacefully on the side of the road

On Monday morning, the local team asked about my weekend and they were shocked to hear that I did not visit the Taj Mahal. The option did cross my mind, but I just could not convince myself to travel 4 hours each way just to look at a building and take a generic picture in front of it. Of course the Taj is one of the most well-known and beautiful buildings in the world, but it also has the reputation of being filled with pushy salesmen and crowds that are herded like cattle. Thinking back on my weekend, I was happy with my decision.

My personal travel style has always been to explore a city beyond just the famous sites. I love discovering quaint neighborhoods, eating at family-owned restaurants, and traveling through the city like a local. I feel like I accomplished this in Delhi, and the experience was quite memorable. India may not be an easy place to visit, but I gained a new perspective over the past two weeks.

Immigrants vs Expats

In a recent controversial article by The Guardian, the question is posed: "Why are white people expats while the rest of us are immigrants?" As someone who considers himself an expat, I was intrigued.

Before even reading the article, I started thinking back to my childhood, and to the people I viewed as immigrants: Haitian housekeepers, Brazilian construction workers, Mexican farmhands. I never really thought about people who moved from European countries because they were not stereotypically associated with any one profession. However, I suppose the Greek guys who owned the deli in my hometown, and even my own ancestors would have been considered immigrants in my mind.

So when did people start using the term “expat”? I never actually noticed the shift in vernacular until I suddenly became an “expat” myself. If someone called me an immigrant in Hong Kong, I would probably laugh at them because I consider my time there to be entirely temporary. To me, immigrants are working-class people who permanently relocate to another country to escape poverty and start a new life for themselves. I have professional friends in Hong Kong from all different racial backgrounds, and I would label them all as expatriates.

Oddly enough, I was recently talking to an Indian national who has been living in Dubai for 20 years. I asked him if he feels like a local, or if he still feels like an expatriate. The term “immigrant” did not even cross my mind, because his reason for living in Dubai is to work as a professional in my industry. When he retires, he will likely move back to his home country.

After reading the article, I thought it displayed a very bitter perspective by the author. He states that "top African professionals" in Europe are always considered immigrants, and uses his personal experience to claim that the term “expat” is reserved exclusively for western white people going to work abroad.

Ironically, he uses an example from Hong Kong to justify his theory – pointing to Filipino domestic helpers, who are labeled as “guests” rather than expats. I agree that domestic helpers are not thought of as expats. However, it is not because they are Filipino, but rather, because they truly are guests in the homes of their employers. They are not eligible for official Hong Kong residency, and they do not enjoy independent lives.

Based on my experience living, traveling, and working in over 50 countries, I am frustrated that the author's inferiority complex has caused him to proliferate the racial divide without much more than anecdotal evidence. I am not naïve enough to believe that everyone is blind to color, but I think the author has overstepped in his generalizations. For me, the distinction between "expat" and "immigrant" (or any other term that is used to describe people living in a foreign country) is not grounded in race. Instead, the distinction is about one's life situation and motivations.

What does this author hope to achieve from his article? In my opinion, it is nothing more than an empty grievance that fails to appreciate the complex nature of global migrations.