When I think about the Middle East, several
things come to mind: arrogant people, socially conservative behavior, desert
landscapes, and hot & humid weather. Oil wealth has rapidly transformed
several countries from this region into global economic powerhouses, but
people’s attitudes have not adapted to Western morals. I have never been a huge
fan of the Middle East, but my visit to Muscat showed me that Oman is unlike
its neighbors in many ways.
For one, I was surprised to see so many Omanis working at the hotel since locals would rarely take a job like that in Qatar or UAE. Even in Saudi Arabia, locals are just starting to be forced upon payrolls with limited effectiveness due to their dismal overall work ethic. Unlike neighboring countries, Omanis can be found throughout the workforce and contributing to the local economy.
Don’t just take my word for it. The population of Oman is about 3 million, of which 577k are non-nationals (19%). Compare this with Qatar – a country with 2.2 million people, of which almost 90% are foreign workers. The United Arab Emirates is similar – with over 80% of the population consisting of immigrants. Those two countries really are built on the backs of immigrants. The statistics may seem arbitrary, but I really think the imbalance of power creates a tiered social class structure where locals consider themselves “too good” for many service industries. This is just not the case in Oman, where local hospitality is evident from the moment you walk into any establishment.
I was also pleasantly surprised by the landscape, which is so different from the barren deserts that comprise much of the region. Looking out of my window, I could see mountains framing the city. During monsoon season, I was told the mountains actually receive a lot of rain and fog – quite unusual for the Arabian Peninsula.
The weather in Muscat is definitely hot, but it felt less humid than other nearby cities. I even went running along the Corniche in the mornings, and did not feel like I was drenched in sweat. Running along the water was actually quite beautiful, although I didn’t see another runner outside during my entire time there.
One of the biggest tourist attractions in Muscat – at least for me – is the Grand Mosque. I took a (surprisingly expensive) taxi from my hotel to visit and I was excited to have the opportunity to tour freely, without regard to my religion. The mosque is located right next to a highway, and the building is much shorter than other mosques in and around Muscat. In contrast to the less-than spectacular curb appeal, I was absolutely amazed when I walked through the complex. It is evident that this mosque is a huge sense of pride for people and I felt privileged to get an up-close look.
Aside from the main prayer hall (musalla), there was another smaller musalla for women and a series of covered passageways along the perimeter of the grounds. I was lucky to be among a small group of tourists that day, so I could move freely and take a lot of pictures.
Inside each musalla, the immaculate hand-woven carpet and sparkling Swarovski crystal chandeliers were more beautiful than the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. I love all the detail that goes into these buildings – almost reminiscent of the cathedrals in Europe.
On my last afternoon in Muscat, I passed the time by taking a running tour of the city. I found the overall environment to be unlike anywhere I have visited before. The buildings were all whitewashed and free of character. There was very little advertising on the streets, and everything appeared very clean. Unlike other desert cities, Muscat appeared to have more trees and vegetation.
There were no skyscrapers like Dubai or Abu Dhabi, so the minarets remained among the tallest structures – dotting the skyline in front of the jagged mountains.
As I passed along the Corniche, some people were enjoying the afternoon by calmly sitting in small groups along the water. There were no intense sports, very few swimsuits, and certainly no drinking. A few children ran around while their parents walked slowly behind them.
I ran past a few streets with cafes overlooking the water (including Tim Horton’s and Starbucks)! It was fun to see people look at me as I ran past – an unusual sight, I’m sure. But aside from the occasional stares, I almost felt like I was in Southern California or Arizona.
Of course people are dressed in traditional attire, and the Omani style of dishdasha is also a little different than neighboring countries. The Ankle-length gown has a decorative tassel hanging down from the collar, which was traditionally dipped in perfume. Most of the men also wear a small hat called a “muzzar”. Unlike the long headscarf (keffiyeh) that I wore in Saudi Arabia last month, the muzzar made the overall look appear much less regal / formal. Most women wore dark abayas, but they did not always cover their heads or faces.
From my perspective, cultural traditions in
Oman remain strong, but the people also have a more modern outlook. Women can drive.
Locals can drink (sparingly). People are proud to welcome tourists. My hotel
even has multiple bars and nightclubs, which are frequented by locals and tourists
alike. Luxury hotels in Muscat make it easy to forget that you are in a Muslim country.
I wish I had time to see more of Oman, but the little that I did see in Muscat left me with a very positive impression. Oman has such a deep history as a strategic trading port, yet the rapid rate of growth is still reaching its potential. It will be interesting to see how the country develops in the years ahead, as Oman takes a different strategy than its more flashy neighbors. Cities like Dubai will always be more well-known for its distinctive and luxurious tourist attractions, but I would recommend Muscat for a more authentic local experience.
For one, I was surprised to see so many Omanis working at the hotel since locals would rarely take a job like that in Qatar or UAE. Even in Saudi Arabia, locals are just starting to be forced upon payrolls with limited effectiveness due to their dismal overall work ethic. Unlike neighboring countries, Omanis can be found throughout the workforce and contributing to the local economy.
Don’t just take my word for it. The population of Oman is about 3 million, of which 577k are non-nationals (19%). Compare this with Qatar – a country with 2.2 million people, of which almost 90% are foreign workers. The United Arab Emirates is similar – with over 80% of the population consisting of immigrants. Those two countries really are built on the backs of immigrants. The statistics may seem arbitrary, but I really think the imbalance of power creates a tiered social class structure where locals consider themselves “too good” for many service industries. This is just not the case in Oman, where local hospitality is evident from the moment you walk into any establishment.
I was also pleasantly surprised by the landscape, which is so different from the barren deserts that comprise much of the region. Looking out of my window, I could see mountains framing the city. During monsoon season, I was told the mountains actually receive a lot of rain and fog – quite unusual for the Arabian Peninsula.
 |
| Muscat skyline - White and more white. |
The weather in Muscat is definitely hot, but it felt less humid than other nearby cities. I even went running along the Corniche in the mornings, and did not feel like I was drenched in sweat. Running along the water was actually quite beautiful, although I didn’t see another runner outside during my entire time there.
One of the biggest tourist attractions in Muscat – at least for me – is the Grand Mosque. I took a (surprisingly expensive) taxi from my hotel to visit and I was excited to have the opportunity to tour freely, without regard to my religion. The mosque is located right next to a highway, and the building is much shorter than other mosques in and around Muscat. In contrast to the less-than spectacular curb appeal, I was absolutely amazed when I walked through the complex. It is evident that this mosque is a huge sense of pride for people and I felt privileged to get an up-close look.
 |
| View of the mosque from the surrounding gardens |
 |
| Looking at the main musalla from the outer perimeter |
 |
| Felt like I was watching the musical "Chicago" |
Aside from the main prayer hall (musalla), there was another smaller musalla for women and a series of covered passageways along the perimeter of the grounds. I was lucky to be among a small group of tourists that day, so I could move freely and take a lot of pictures.
 |
| Doorway to the women's musalla is much smaller |
 |
| A woman walks through a quiet corridor |
Inside each musalla, the immaculate hand-woven carpet and sparkling Swarovski crystal chandeliers were more beautiful than the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. I love all the detail that goes into these buildings – almost reminiscent of the cathedrals in Europe.
 |
| Amazing array of colors inside the musalla |
 |
| Looking up at the chandelier |
 |
| Detail in every corner of the main prayer hall |
On my last afternoon in Muscat, I passed the time by taking a running tour of the city. I found the overall environment to be unlike anywhere I have visited before. The buildings were all whitewashed and free of character. There was very little advertising on the streets, and everything appeared very clean. Unlike other desert cities, Muscat appeared to have more trees and vegetation.
There were no skyscrapers like Dubai or Abu Dhabi, so the minarets remained among the tallest structures – dotting the skyline in front of the jagged mountains.
As I passed along the Corniche, some people were enjoying the afternoon by calmly sitting in small groups along the water. There were no intense sports, very few swimsuits, and certainly no drinking. A few children ran around while their parents walked slowly behind them.
 |
| Conservative attire at the beach |
 |
| Doesn't feel like the Middle East to me! |
I ran past a few streets with cafes overlooking the water (including Tim Horton’s and Starbucks)! It was fun to see people look at me as I ran past – an unusual sight, I’m sure. But aside from the occasional stares, I almost felt like I was in Southern California or Arizona.
 |
| Feeling right at home with Cold Stone and Tim Horton's |
 |
| View of the coastline from the corniche in Muscat |
Of course people are dressed in traditional attire, and the Omani style of dishdasha is also a little different than neighboring countries. The Ankle-length gown has a decorative tassel hanging down from the collar, which was traditionally dipped in perfume. Most of the men also wear a small hat called a “muzzar”. Unlike the long headscarf (keffiyeh) that I wore in Saudi Arabia last month, the muzzar made the overall look appear much less regal / formal. Most women wore dark abayas, but they did not always cover their heads or faces.
 |
| Three men in traditional attire, sitting by the water |
 |
| Men in traditional attire in the lobby of my hotel |
 |
| Sitting at a clear piano in one of the hotel bars |
I wish I had time to see more of Oman, but the little that I did see in Muscat left me with a very positive impression. Oman has such a deep history as a strategic trading port, yet the rapid rate of growth is still reaching its potential. It will be interesting to see how the country develops in the years ahead, as Oman takes a different strategy than its more flashy neighbors. Cities like Dubai will always be more well-known for its distinctive and luxurious tourist attractions, but I would recommend Muscat for a more authentic local experience.
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