Friday, 20 March 2015

Delhi, India

Of all the countries I have visited in my life, India has traditionally been the hardest for me to enjoy. Almost everything requires adaptation – from the heavy food to the blatant poverty. Even the service culture at 5-star hotels is much different than I have experienced in other countries. At the end of the day, I usually just close my door and savor the solitude. 

Don’t get me wrong – almost everyone I meet has the best intentions, and I am lucky to have many friends across the country. I just think the best way to approach every day in India is to appreciate the differences rather than getting annoyed by them. Locals want tourists to enjoy their time in India, and they are proud of their deep-rooted culture. In a world that is becoming more and more homogenous, it is actually refreshing to go to a country that is not trying to copy the latest global trends. 

After spending the past two weeks in Delhi, I can confidently say that it is the most comfortable Indian city for a westerner to visit. It still “feels” like India, but the roads are cleaner, the homeless people are less obvious, and it’s actually possible to walk around outside without every single person staring at you. 

On the weekend, I ventured out of the hotel without a driver and the doorman did not even try to stop me. I negotiated with a rickshaw driver for a ride to the metro and I actually rode on public transportation. Yes, it was crowded. Yes, people pushed. But I still did it, and I loved seeing the city through my own eyes rather than just the back seat of a car.  

What they say about crowded trains in India is true!

Best way to travel in India: Auto Rickshaw!


My first stop was Akshardham - the largest Hindu temple in the world. Security was very tight, and cameras were strictly prohibited (I even tried to bribe the security guard but it didn’t work). I did not spend much time walking through the complex because it looked very similar to many other temples I have visited in the past. To recap: I left my shoes in a booth before entering, I walked past elaborate marble sculptures, and I saw many people praying. It was fine, but nothing particularly memorable.   

Best views of Akshardham are from the metro platform 1 block away!

I then went to Connaught Place, which is a shopping district with distinctly British architecture. The shops were very Indian (and surprisingly overpriced), so I didn't really spend much time shopping. Sales clerks in India also tend to hover, which makes me uneasy when I just want to browse on my own.

European-style architecture around Connaught Place

I walked past a classic bakery called Wenger's and it looked so good that I was drawn inside to buy dessert. I almost forgot I was in India until I went outside and noticed this sign on one of the columns: 

You won't see a sign like this in the UK!

I will never understand why almost all buildings and streets in India are so dirty. As I walked through Connaught Place, I thought about how much potential it has to be a really upscale area, but proper maintenance is just completely lacking. Often, I see people sweeping the dust and dirt around in front of their properties, but it never seems to disappear. One of life’s mysteries, I suppose.

My last destination for the day was Humayun’s Tomb, which looks more like a palace than someone’s eternal resting place. 

Humayun's Tomb

From the outside, the building is grand and the Persian-style architecture somewhat resembles the Taj Mahal. The mausoleum took 7 years to construct, and is almost completely empty inside with the exception of the platform containing the emperor’s marble tomb. The site does not take too long to visit, but the grand architecture is absolutely worth a stop for anyone in Delhi. 

The tomb sits in the center of the giant building

Interior of the massive structure

On Sunday, I opted to stay inside the hotel for much of the day. The luxury hotels in India are truly a refuge from the outside world, and I just couldn’t convince myself to leave the perfectly manicured grounds and elaborate buffet restaurants. India is a great place for hotel lovers.  

View of the buffet restaurant in my hotel

Pool and manicured lawns of the hotel

That evening, one of the staff encouraged me to visit Hauz Khas Village – a shopping and nightlife district that caters to young, creative types. I really enjoyed the cool, unpretentious vibe there. The single winding street is lined with coffee shops, creative retail outlets, and low-key bars to pass the day. Without a doubt, this neighborhood is the hidden gem of Delhi.

Looking inside one of the retail boutiques in Hauz Khas Village

Nearby, there are also several temples that I enjoyed visiting. My favorite was Jagannath Temple, which I visited just as the sun was setting. It was a beautiful sight to see the brightly-colored sky framing the stark white marble of the temple. I don't really understand the religious traditions in India, but they are intriguing nonetheless. 


Ganesh statue inside Jagannath Temple

Jagannath Temple at sunset


An unknown tomb sits peacefully on the side of the road

On Monday morning, the local team asked about my weekend and they were shocked to hear that I did not visit the Taj Mahal. The option did cross my mind, but I just could not convince myself to travel 4 hours each way just to look at a building and take a generic picture in front of it. Of course the Taj is one of the most well-known and beautiful buildings in the world, but it also has the reputation of being filled with pushy salesmen and crowds that are herded like cattle. Thinking back on my weekend, I was happy with my decision.

My personal travel style has always been to explore a city beyond just the famous sites. I love discovering quaint neighborhoods, eating at family-owned restaurants, and traveling through the city like a local. I feel like I accomplished this in Delhi, and the experience was quite memorable. India may not be an easy place to visit, but I gained a new perspective over the past two weeks.

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