Even the best cities in the world deserve an escape. Thailand has such a
rich culture and identity, but it’s hard to absorb it all in Bangkok. Like any
big city, Bangkok has been infused with international chain restaurants, Western fashion brands,
and activities that appeal to any international traveler. It is an easy city for
tourists to enjoy, but the urban environment is hardly reflective of Thailand’s
history. I was excited join a tour with some colleagues and visit a few
markets and temples in the outskirts of Bangkok.
Our first destination was the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, which was like
a photographer's paradise. Shortly after arriving, we all piled into boats and set off for our shopping adventure on the river. Our driver navigated the busy waterway while we looked around in awe. Some of the vendors sat in narrow boats and sold everything from fresh fruits to fried noodles. The river was also lined with many small shops. To be honest, there were so many things surrounding me that I found it difficult to focus.
View of the Damnoen Saduak floating market from a bridge over the river
Whenever one of us showed even the smallest interest in anything on display,
the shopkeeper would pull in the entire boat using a long stick with a
hook attached. It is not possible to get out of the boat and walk around the
shop, so all you have to do is point at the things that interest you. The whole experience felt like full-service window shopping. It’s hard to say 'no' to a purchase when
you look at the faces of people who have clearly lived a very difficult life and who
work hard for every dollar they earn.
Shopkeeper at the floating market
Shopkeeper at the floating market
Two women fill their boats with fruit to sell along the river
There were a lot of traffic jams on the river, while the boats stopped for passengers to buy things. It was obvious that this market no longer caters
to locals, but it was fun to get a hint of what the floating markets are like
for people living in rural Thailand.
View of the river from our boat
A woman travels down the river
After the first floating market, we had lunch at a very local seafood
restaurant located in Don Hoi Lot. The restaurant literally
stood above the water on a wide dock, where we could enjoy unobstructed views
of the river. Occasionally, a loud motorboat would pass with a lone fisherman on
board, but otherwise, the atmosphere was completely peaceful. The restaurant
required us to leave our shoes at the entrance and for everyone to sit cross-legged on
the floor. I was constantly fidgeting because my knees are not used to
this seating arrangement, but the authentic flavors and gracious service made up
for the sacrifice in seating comfort.
One of many seafood dishes served to us at lunch
Next, we stopped at Maeklong's Umbrella Market (also called the “railway
market”), which was an experience I will never forget. This market was set up
alongside railroad tracks and the vendors sell mostly food items that include
seafood, produce, and raw meats. At first glance, it looks just like another
local market. However, several times each day, the vendors are required to pull
back their displays in order to allow a train to pass.
Railway Market
Railway Market
A few minutes before the train arrived, a public announcement was made (in
Thai), and suddenly, we witnessed the quiet commotion of the vendors raising
their awnings and pulling back their displays. They knew exactly which items
would remain safe beneath the train and how far to pull back their displays in
order to avoid getting hit.
Railway market prepares for the train to arrive
I don’t think any of us expected just how wide this train was because we
were all in awe as it passed within inches of the food. Within seconds
of the train passing, all of the awnings were down again and the market was
back in business.
We all agreed that we would not be
excited to eat at any of the nearby restaurants, out of concern that they are
serving produce that was literally sitting underneath the passing trains.
Sometimes in a foreign country, we are forced to put blind faith in restaurants
and just hope that we have strong enough immune systems!
Next, we visited the Wat Bang Kung - also known as the "temple in a
tree". I’ll be honest- when I first heard about this place, I imagined it to be more like a tree house. In reality, it is just a regular temple that has become
encased in the roots of nearby banyan trees. Outside the temple, people lit
candles and prayed quietly. Once inside, they paraded around the Buddha – offering gifts and
peeling off small pieces from the gold gilding.
Outside Wat Bang Kung Temple
Adjacent to the temple is a memorial to commemorate a battle between Siam and Burmese
invaders in the 18th century. Apparently it was an important victory that allowed Siam to maintain control of a nearby naval base (or something like that), but to us, it just looked like a series of strange statues in various martial arts poses. I found the statues to be a little tacky,
but they were at least worth a quick photo.
This is Thailand's idea of a memorial
Our final stop for the day was at Amphawa Floating Market. Unlike the market in the morning, this was not entirely located along the river. Instead, the vendors set up on both sides of a narrow road, selling mostly prepared food items. Along the river, there were a few boats selling food, but they were docked and selling to people who walked along the sidewalk. It's a good thing we had just enjoyed a large lunch, because otherwise, I would have wanted to try almost all the food for sale.
One of the boats selling food at Amphawa Floating Market
Overall, we had an awesome excursion out of the Bangkok. In some cities, day trips involve relaxation and enjoyment of the relaxing countryside. However, that's just not the way things work in Thailand. Everywhere you go is full of life and energy. Anyone who travels to Bangkok should certainly venture out of the city to see these unique sites, but they shouldn't necessarily expect a quiet and relaxing day. Relaxation can be enjoyed on the Thai beaches!
Enjoying the floating market with some colleagues!
All obsessive runners will have stories about the time(s)
they had to wake up early for a race. For me, the Bangkok Half Marathon set a new standard
with its 4AM start time.If
that isn’t early enough, the full marathoners actually started at 2:30 – which also
happened to be the same time that my alarm went off. I did not enjoy being jolted
out of a sound sleep in the middle of the night, but I convinced myself that
the feeling of accomplishment at the end of the race would supersede my desire
to sleep a few more hours. After only one snooze, I peeled myself out of bed
and set off for yet another half marathon.
I was feeling good after my rock star carb loading the night
before, with some tasty green curry and mango sticky race for dessert.
Pre-race carb loading
The hotel also arranged a chauffeur-driven Mercedes to transport
me to the starting line at Royal Palace. As I rode through the city at 3AM, it was funny to see all the people coming out of the
bars after a long night of partying. As if there was ever any doubt, I am far from the typical tourist. When I arrived at the assembly point, it was very quiet. People
gradually filtered in – already dressed in full race attire and looking like
they were ready to go. They sat patiently on the curb or stretched alone in silence. The adjacent field had a few booths set up for people to win Standard Chartered merchandise, and some vendors were selling race shirts from
prior years. Unlike some other races, which have more of a party atmosphere at
the starting line, this one was much more focused and serious.
Bangkok Half Marathon starting line...at 3:08 AM
To avoid feeling sleepy, I walked around aimlessly and
scoped out the other runners. Each race bib was printed with the runner’s name, age,
and an image of the flag from their home country. I entertained myself by
trying to predict everyone’s nationality based on how they looked.The vast majority of
runners were from Thailand, but there was a good number of international runners as well. I was clearly not the only person playing this game because I got
a lot of strange looks when people noticed my bib; not because I am American,
but because I was running as the HR Director - a 53-year old
Thai man named Xuwat. I like to think I could pass as several different nationalities, but Thai is certainly not one of them! About 10 minutes before the race start, people began lining up and I noticed that I was one of the tallest people around. There was one other runner around my height, who also happened to be an American. I took a picture of him to illustrate how much taller we were than the rest of the crowd.
Height difference between Americans and Thai people.
The pre-race announcements were in both Thai and English, which I appreciated. I was surprised to hear that this race would be the largest half marathon in Thailand's history, with around 4,500 runners. Just as a frame of reference, the race I ran in Perth earlier this year had ten times as many runners. Between the humidity and the busy streets, I am not surprised that Thai people have yet to embrace a running culture!
I was actually impressed with the course, which took runners on an elevated highway, across a cable bridge, and past several palace-looking structures in central Bangkok. Unfortunately, there was very little crowd support (as can be expected at 4AM). Even though I was running under another person's name, I still pushed myself to finish with a respectable time. Why am I unable to grasp the concept of a "fun run" with a relaxed pace?
My biggest critique about the race is that the kilometer markings were completely messed up, so I don't really know how far I actually ran. In the middle of the race, the half marathon and full marathon courses merged. From that point on, we followed the same course, yet the mile markers didn't increase at the same pace. For example: - sign #1: Full marathon, 32km; Half Marathon, 11km - sign #2: Full marathon, 34km; Half marathon, 12.5km How is this possible?
I never run with a Garmin watch, but always I rely on the mile markers as a gauge for how much energy I should be using. I may be crazy, but that last kilometer felt like it would never end. When I crossed the finish line, my time was a respectable 1:30:13, but it's hard to tell if I really ran 13.1 miles or some other distance! The end of the race was admittedly pretty exciting because there was a decent amount of crowd support cheering us to the finish line. The sky was still completely dark, but the trees along the road were lit up with white lights. Unlike most half marathons, there were no medals given out at the finish line because they were actually provided at packet pick-up. I literally could have skipped the entire race and still ended up with a medal, which just seemed strange to me.
2014 Bangkok Half Marathon medal
The sky was completely dark throughout the entire race, but I still managed to work up a sweat (thanks to the humidity). I can't even imagine what it would have been like if the race was scheduled during the daylight hours. Once I crossed the finish line, I really didn't have much reason to hang around, so I just took a quick selfie in front of the marathon poster, found my driver, and returned to the hotel.
2014 Bangkok Half Marathon Selfie
It is certainly atypical to finish a half marathon and return home before 6AM, but Bangkok is anything but typical. I am grateful to the HR Director for giving me the chance to participate in the event and I am excited to add yet another country to my list of places where I have completed a race. The Bangkok Half Marathon may not have been the most exciting or best organized race in the world, but it was absolutely worth the early morning wake-up call.
Bangkok is one of those cities that just makes me feel happy. The people are so gracious and hospitable, food is amazing, and the atmosphere has a contagious "buzz" that draws me in. My first time visiting Bangkok was back in 2010 and I have so many fun memories from the trip. Needless to say, I was beyond excited to spend two weeks exploring even more of Thailand's capital.
My hotel has a stunning mix of classic and modern design that made me feel right at home. It was also a perfect escape from the chaotic and lively streets. Sensory overload is a big part of Bangkok's appeal, but I don't think I would appreciate it as much if I couldn't escape to such a comfortable retreat each night. Perhaps I have been brainwashed in my current industry, but I really think it is important for travelers to splurge for a nice hotel so they can go to sleep with a sense of ease and wake up each morning feeling refreshed.
My retreat from the busy streets of Bangkok
When I look out over the city each morning at breakfast, the skyline appears just like any other modern metropolis. Buildings and construction cranes fill the landscape around the hotel, while Western businessmen fill the lounge. Walking through the streets is the only way to notice just how quickly Bangkok must have engulfed the local people in its rapid development. The remnants of a simpler day exist on almost every sidewalk, as street vendors sell low-cost food and clothing items to those who can't afford the luxury that now surrounds them. Bangkok truly has something for everyone.
View of the city from the hotel's executive lounge
The staff is always so proud to share their local foods with me and Bangkok is one place where I enthusiastically accept anything that appears on my plate. Thai food is so rich in variety and I was eager to try it all. Knowing this, the staff treated me with a feast of options at every meal. I enjoyed every single thing that I tried, which is very rare for such an otherwise picky eater. Of course I don't remember the names of anything because they were always ordered (in Thai) on my behalf. The staff even brought in some homemade food for me to try throughout my two week stay. The delicate mix of flavors and the fresh ingredients make me think that I would double in size if I lived in Bangkok.
On Friday night, a few of us visited Asiatique. which is an entertainment complex that was formerly a factory district. I loved the fun atmosphere and it actually reminded me of Downtown Disney. Throughout the week, I kept telling people that I love spicy food, so they really tested my limit by ordering some of the most spicy things they could find on the menu. After only a few minutes, I was pouring sweat in the middle of the restaurant, while my local colleagues looked like they were eating a bowl of ice cream. I learned quickly that my tolerance to spice is measured to an entirely different standard.
View of the riverfront from Asiatique
One of the entrances to Asiatique
I couldn't resist riding back to the hotel in a tuk tuk because they are always more fun than traditional taxis. In Bangkok, the polished chrome bars are perfect for reflecting the colorful lights that shine from these noisy, polluting vehicles. My colleagues said that locals never ride in tuk tuks (other than students), and their statement was proven true many times as we approached the hotel.
Riding back to the hotel and looking like tourists
My fascination with Thai culture extends to religion; particularly all the beautiful shrines that are seen throughout the city. There is no official state religion in the Thai constitution, but over 90% of the population is Buddhist and almost every home or building has its own "spirit house" displayed in a very auspicious location to bring good luck. It is not hard to see the many spirit houses in front of each building but I had to keep my eyes open because there were also several beautiful shrines hidden between modern skyscrapers. Here, the Wat Pathumwanaram Ratchaworawihan sits undisturbed between two shopping malls and I would have never noticed it if I didn't look above the barrier walls that separate it from the street.
Wat Pathumwanaram Ratchaworawihan (Buddhist Shrine)
This is what the inside looks like
The Erawan shrine at my hotel is the most widely visited in the entire city. Seated within the shrine is the 4-faced Brahma God and it is constantly surrounded by visitors that offer gifts and prayers. If you don't have a gift to offer, it's no problem because there are countless street vendors nearby selling everything from flowers to fruit. Tourists are also treated to women that sing and dance, wearing some elaborate outfits and dangerous headgear!
Erawan Shrine, as viewed from the pedestrian walkway above the street
This headgear would be considered a weapon in most countries!
Nightlife and shopping are probably the biggest attractions in Bangkok and they are actually somewhat intertwined. Many of the street markets don't even open up until after dark, and they sell everything imaginable (and even some things that you wouldn't imagine). I always thought that bargaining is part of the whole experience, but I found that most vendors these days offer a fixed price to avoid the haggling (which I much prefer). Although the street markets are fun, a lot of the items for sale are very low quality. Nightlife, on the other hand, is amazing from any perspective, and you can enjoy any type of bar without judgment. Dive bars, ladyboy shows, karaoke rooms, and luxury rooftop lounges are all part of the landscape, and the prices are generally much lower than other big cities.
Heineken Bar in front of Central World
Drinks with colleagues from Singapore, Thailand, and Cambodia
Anyone looking for luxury shopping has plenty of options in Bangkok, and the malls are on par with any other major city. Siam Paragon mall has everything from Dior to Burberry, where bags sell for higher than an average working class annual salary. Walking through the mall felt like being back in America. Even the food court was full of American classics such as McDonald's, KFC, Burger King, Cinnabon, and even Garrett's Popcorn.
People with more avant-garde taste in clothing can also find plenty of options in Siam Center mall. If I hadn't just ordered two custom suits for myself earlier in the week, I may have been enticed to splurge for some truly unique clothing. Instead, I just amused myself by window shopping at the widest range of stores I have ever seen - including some that sell eyebrows (which they call "eye wigs"). Who ever heard of such a thing? Only in Asia...
Trendy shop in Siam Center Mall
Browhaus...for your eyebrow needs!
Even people without eyebrows can look beautiful here!
I can't really decide exactly what it is about Bangkok that draws me in. I have been to many places with nice people, good food, and fun nightlife, but Bangkok elevates each of these experiences to the next level in my mind. Elements of Thai culture are apparent to anyone who takes the time too look, but the city also has plenty of modern conveniences that appeal to those who are less willing to branch out of their comfort zone.
