Phuket, Thailand

Phuket is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Southeast Asia, and after spending two weeks on the island, I can completely understand the appeal. The natural beauty is undeniable, nightlife is crazy, and the people are just incredible. Of course the food is also amazing (I could eat Thai food every day for the rest of my life and be completely satisfied). January is also one of the best times of year to visit Phuket. Weather was warm, but not oppressive, and it didn’t rain once throughout the entire two weeks.

The island has a very mountainous landscape, which means that everyone will get a good workout at some point in their vacation. My hotel was built into the side of a mountain, so I had to climb up the equivalent of a 20-story building every day just to reach my room, the gym, and the club lounge. On the bright side, most of the rooms had amazing high views of the coastline.

View from the club lounge at my hotel

I can’t speak for all hotels, but mine did not have direct beach access. Instead, it relied on a massive infinity-edge pool. Personally, I would much rather swim in a pool than in the ocean, so I was perfectly happy. The poolside bar service was an added benefit (although this is Thailand…even the beaches have people walking around to sell drinks). 

I will take a pool over a beach any day

When the weekend came along, my colleagues insisted on showing me a big night out. It started with dinner at a local seafood place that looked more like a pet store than a restaurant. In the front were giant fish tanks where you could catch your own meal. They grilled it up right in front of us and then delivered it to the table. It doesn’t get fresher than that! 
 

The "chef" grilling up our dinner

One of many tasty seafood options at dinner

After dinner, we went to Patong beach for a more traditional tourist experience. As we walked through the strip of bars on Bangla Road, I was amazed by the number of girls dancing on stripper poles. My brother would have loved these places, but I actually found them trashy and uncomfortable. Fortunately, my colleagues did not take me to any of these places. Instead, they booked a private table at a nightclub called Seduction, which was a complete contrast to the bars surrounding it. The clientele was still very casual, but the environment was much more sophisticated. My favorite parts of the experience (besides the VIP bottle service) were the acrobatic performances and costumed dancers on stage. Even though I would not have chosen to visit Patong beach on my own, I’m glad I got to experience real Phuket nightlife.

One of the less appealing bars on Bangla Road

More girls dancing on poles

Performance at Seduction Nightclub

Dancer at Seduction Nightclub

The next day was much more low-key, as I spent some time at a nearby beach called Kamala. Just like everywhere else in Thailand, it is full of bargain massage studios and street vendors selling delicious food and drinks. I timed my visit to coincide with the sunset, which was more stunning than anything I have ever seen before. I have never been to Hawaii, but I would imagine that it rivals what I saw in Kamala. 

Kamala Beach

Romantic (topless) setting at Kamala Beach

Sunset at Kamala Beach

Sun setting on Kamala Beach

Sunday, my colleagues arranged an excursion to nearby Phi Phi Island in Krabi. We started the day super early to catch the ferry, which took about 2.5 hours to reach the island. Most of the trip was in the open seas, but as we arrived at the island, we were treated to the most stunning cliffs that emerged from the ocean like they had been dropped from the sky. There were quite a few secluded caves, which were perfect for kayaking.

Arriving at Phi Phi Island

Spectacular cliffs jutting out of the water

We decided to take a snorkeling trip, which was another first for me. The boat docked and we all jumped off the side into the clear blue water. I have an irrational fear of breathing out of a tiny tube with my face under water, but I calmed myself down after practicing for a few minutes. I was amazed by the number of fish that swam past me as they effortlessly avoided my grip (yes, I tried touching them). When I swam closer to the coastline, I noticed some beautiful corals but I was afraid of stepping on the jagged rocks so close to my next marathon, so I didn’t spend too much time in the shallow waters. 

In order to attract the fish, the workers on the boat were tossing small pieces of bread off the edge of the boat. It worked like a charm and there were literally thousands of fish that surrounded all of us. After this short experience, I am now really interested in taking an extended diving vacation to the Great Barrier Reef. That will be on my bucket list before leaving Asia.

The scene around the boat

Proof that the fish were everywhere!

There's always one guy who tries to catch the fish!

After snorkeling, we returned to the island for lunch and some free time to relax on the beaches. Despite being made famous by the movie The Beach (14 years ago), it seems like they are just now developing Phi Phi Island into an overnight tourist destination. Unfortunately, the seasonality in Thailand makes it difficult for companies to have a successful year-round business.

Finally arriving on Phi Phi Island

Boats lined up along the shore

Our group on the beach!

The sun was beginning to set when we returned to Phuket, so my colleagues took me to a lighthouse on a cliff, which is known for having some of the most spectacular sunsets in the world. I was tired at this point, but I still appreciated the gesture. The ride back to the hotel took over an hour, which displayed the large size of the island and the lack of express roads. The entire time, we were basically weaving our way through little beachside neighborhoods that looked surprisingly similar to one another.

Another beautiful sunset in Phuket

My second week in Phuket was just like the first. I looked out from my window at paradise every morning, drank Thai iced tea from the local street vendor (hand-delivered by my extremely generous local friends), and savored evening dinners al fresco by the pool. I can totally see why so many people choose Phuket as a romantic getaway, but I think it is also a great destination for a group of friends or a bachelor party (thanks to the nightlife).

Without a doubt, Thailand is one of my favorite countries in the world to visit, and Phuket lives up to the hype. It has a similar feeling as Aruba, except the nightlife is more over-the-top, the prices are much more reasonable, and the views from the cliffs are even more stunning. Would I go back? In a heartbeat. 

Bangkok, Thailand

Bangkok is one of those cities that just makes me feel happy. The people are so gracious and hospitable, food is amazing, and the atmosphere has a contagious "buzz" that draws me in. My first time visiting Bangkok was back in 2010 and I have so many fun memories from the trip. Needless to say, I was beyond excited to spend two weeks exploring even more of Thailand's capital.

My hotel has a stunning mix of classic and modern design that made me feel right at home. It was also a perfect escape from the chaotic and lively streets. Sensory overload is a big part of Bangkok's appeal, but I don't think I would appreciate it as much if I couldn't escape to such a comfortable retreat each night. Perhaps I have been brainwashed in my current industry, but I really think it is important for travelers to splurge for a nice hotel so they can go to sleep with a sense of ease and wake up each morning feeling refreshed.



My retreat from the busy streets of Bangkok

When I look out over the city each morning at breakfast, the skyline appears just like any other modern metropolis. Buildings and construction cranes fill the landscape around the hotel, while Western businessmen fill the lounge. Walking through the streets is the only way to notice just how quickly Bangkok must have engulfed the local people in its rapid development.  The remnants of a simpler day exist on almost every sidewalk, as street vendors sell low-cost food and clothing items to those who can't afford the luxury that now surrounds them. Bangkok truly has something for everyone.



View of the city from the hotel's executive lounge

The staff is always so proud to share their local foods with me and Bangkok is one place where I enthusiastically accept anything that appears on my plate. Thai food is so rich in variety and I was eager to try it all.  Knowing this, the staff treated me with a feast of options at every meal. I enjoyed every single thing that I tried, which is very rare for such an otherwise picky eater. Of course I don't remember the names of anything because they were always ordered (in Thai) on my behalf. The staff even brought in some homemade food for me to try throughout my two week stay. The delicate mix of flavors and the fresh ingredients make me think that I would double in size if I lived in Bangkok.

On Friday night, a few of us visited Asiatique. which is an entertainment complex that was formerly a factory district. I loved the fun atmosphere and it actually reminded me of Downtown Disney. Throughout the week, I kept telling people that I love spicy food, so they really tested my limit by ordering some of the most spicy things they could find on the menu. After only a few minutes, I was pouring sweat in the middle of the restaurant, while my local colleagues looked like they were eating a bowl of ice cream. I learned quickly that my tolerance to spice is measured to an entirely different standard.  


View of the riverfront from Asiatique



One of the entrances to Asiatique

I couldn't resist riding back to the hotel in a tuk tuk because they are always more fun than traditional taxis. In Bangkok, the polished chrome bars are perfect for reflecting the colorful lights that shine from these noisy, polluting vehicles. My colleagues said that locals never ride in tuk tuks (other than students), and their statement was proven true many times as we approached the hotel.



Riding back to the hotel and looking like tourists

My fascination with Thai culture extends to religion; particularly all the beautiful shrines that are seen throughout the city. There is no official state religion in the Thai constitution, but over 90% of the population is Buddhist and almost every home or building has its own "spirit house" displayed in a very auspicious location to bring good luck. It is not hard to see the many spirit houses in front of each building but I had to keep my eyes open because there were also several beautiful shrines hidden between modern skyscrapers. Here, the Wat Pathumwanaram Ratchaworawihan sits undisturbed between two shopping malls and I would have never noticed it if I didn't look above the barrier walls that separate it from the street.


Wat Pathumwanaram Ratchaworawihan (Buddhist Shrine)

 

This is what the inside looks like

The Erawan shrine at my hotel is the most widely visited in the entire city. Seated within the shrine is the 4-faced Brahma God and it is constantly surrounded by visitors that offer gifts and prayers. If you don't have a gift to offer, it's no problem because there are countless street vendors nearby selling everything from flowers to fruit. Tourists are also treated to women that sing and dance, wearing some elaborate outfits and dangerous headgear!



Erawan Shrine, as viewed from the pedestrian walkway above the street



This headgear would be considered a weapon in most countries!

Nightlife and shopping are probably the biggest attractions in Bangkok and they are actually somewhat intertwined. Many of the street markets don't even open up until after dark, and they sell everything imaginable (and even some things that you wouldn't imagine). I always thought that bargaining is part of the whole experience, but I found that most vendors these days offer a fixed price to avoid the haggling (which I much prefer). Although the street markets are fun, a lot of the items for sale are very low quality. Nightlife, on the other hand, is amazing from any perspective, and you can enjoy any type of bar without judgment. Dive bars, ladyboy shows, karaoke rooms, and luxury rooftop lounges are all part of the landscape, and the prices are generally much lower than other big cities.



Heineken Bar in front of Central World



Drinks with colleagues from Singapore, Thailand, and Cambodia

Anyone looking for luxury shopping has plenty of options in Bangkok, and the malls are on par with any other major city. Siam Paragon mall has everything from Dior to Burberry, where bags sell for higher than an average working class annual salary. Walking through the mall felt like being back in America. Even the food court was full of American classics such as McDonald's, KFC, Burger King, Cinnabon, and even Garrett's Popcorn.

People with more avant-garde taste in clothing can also find plenty of options in Siam Center mall. If I hadn't just ordered two custom suits for myself earlier in the week, I may have been enticed to splurge for some truly unique clothing. Instead, I just amused myself by window shopping at the widest range of stores I have ever seen - including some that sell eyebrows (which they call "eye wigs"). Who ever heard of such a thing?  Only in Asia...



Trendy shop in Siam Center Mall



Browhaus...for your eyebrow needs!



Even people without eyebrows can look beautiful here!

I can't really decide exactly what it is about Bangkok that draws me in. I have been to many places with nice people, good food, and fun nightlife, but Bangkok elevates each of these experiences to the next level in my mind. Elements of Thai culture are apparent to anyone who takes the time too look, but the city also has plenty of modern conveniences that appeal to those who are less willing to branch out of their comfort zone.

Nightlife

Nightlife is such an important element of any city's identity.  In some places that I have visited, the atmosphere of the best restaurants and bars is a sharp contrast to daily life.  This new perspective really helps to give me a more well-rounded opinion of the city.  Unfortunately,  I don't always get the chance to go out much because I am usually traveling on my own.  So, whenever local staff members offer to take me somewhere, I always jump at the opportunity.  

Some of my best memories from this year involve nights out with the staff.  In Casablanca, I discovered a completely different side of the city when a couple people took me out for my last night.  Daily life in Casablanca felt chaotic and even dangerous, but the nightclub we visited felt like an upscale bar in South Beach.  I couldn't have been more pleasantly surprised. 

Mexico and South Africa, on the other hand, offered nightlife that was exactly what I would have imagined.  In Merida, the city center was filled with people (mostly families) - eating carnivalesque food, buying giant balloons for their kids, and enjoying simple food at local bars that had probably been family-owned for generations.  Johannesburg (particularly Rosebank) offered its "best" bars/restaurants in a shopping mall. The nightclub I visited (Maxi's) was filled with a very diverse crowd - smoking cigars and dancing to a live african band.  

I was excited when one of the girls in Amman asked what I was doing after work on Tuesday.  We started the evening by exploring the historic sites at night.  While we were walking around near the Roman Amphitheater, one of the security guards asked me where I was from.  Normally I say that I'm Canadian or Swiss to avoid any anti-American rhetoric, but I had to be honest since I was around two people who actually know my background.  

The guard started telling me a little about Amman's history and then took me to his friend's antique shop (of course) to see if anything appealed to me.  I looked around politely for a couple minutes without picking up a single item because I didn't want to show particular interest in anything!  I think it's funny that anywhere I go, people assume that Americans will buy whatever junk you show to them.   

Here we are, showing off our "guns" in downtown Amman!

We continued walking through the downtown area a bit more and passed lots of small shops selling mostly low-quality clothing, shoes, and bags.  I couldn't believe how busy the city was at 11pm on a random Tuesday night.  We eventually made it up to Rainbow Street (a popular area for outdoor bars and cafes) and sat at one of the outdoor tables of a restaurant for some fresh juice.   

Most people were just sitting quietly at the tables, flanked by hookah pipes (aka: hubbly bubbly) and talking to each other only occasionally.  The scene was laid-back and quiet...similar to what I have experienced in other Middle Eastern cities and completely different from bars in Europe or North America, where everyone is drunk and yelling just to hear each other.  

The waiter laid out plates of Arabic desserts on our table, which are sickly sweet, but so good.  My favorite is called Awamat, which is basically a tiny ball of deep fried dough...crunchy on the outside and filled with a doughy, syrup-filled center.  I literally kept saying: "ok, this is my last one."  So much for all my hours in the gym this week...

Here's what Awamat look like.  

The next morning, I was dragging a little because of insufficient sleep but happy that I had a chance to go out the night before.  As I was checking my e-mail and easing into the day, my main contact person peeked his head into my office and asked: "What are you doing tonight?"

I told him that I had no plans and he invited me to a home-cooked Iftar dinner at his home.  My entire mind was immediately filled with fear.  I hate being invited to dinner because it doesn't give me any element of food choice.  As an extremely picky eater, this is dangerous when I also have to balance not offending the host, who is rightfully proud of the food that they have made.  

There has been more than one occasion where I have had to create a totally awkward moment by honestly admitting that I can't eat the food that has been presented to me because it contained one of my "no way" ingredients (mustard, mayonnaise, ketchup, cream, and/or italian style tomato sauce).
  
I literally spent half the day thinking about the foods that I have seen at other Iftar buffets and calculating my chances of disaster.  Fortunately, I couldn't think of any main courses that would be off-limits.  My fingers were crossed. 

When I arrived, I felt a little awkward at first because I don't often eat dinner with families that I have never met - especially in their homes.  We just started talking about all sorts of random things and before I knew it, the food was about to be unveiled.  To my relief, everything on the table was edible: hummus and falafel, some sort of green bean and beef salad, and lamb shank with rice and almonds.  I could tell that the lamb was marinated in a yogurt, but I could tolerate that. 

They literally piled the food on my plate as if I hadn't eaten in weeks and I had to constantly say: "oh, that's more than enough!"  The wife had also made this rich sauce for the meat, which was a little too much to handle.  Unfortunately, she noticed when I put only a small amount on the meat and commented: "Oh, you don't like the sauce?  That's ok...I know it is probably not popular for people who aren't used to our food."   

I responded, "no, I love it!" and reluctantly added another spoonful.  I guess all mothers are the same when it comes to feeding people.  After all the excessive guilt eating, I was very full but also proud of myself for trying to eat all that was served to me.     

After dinner, we went out to the balcony for some tea and more conversation.  Even though I'm never a big fan of "homey" things, it really was nice to experience such an authentic family atmosphere during Ramadan.  I figured it was my decision when to call it quits, so I looked at my watch around 11pm and said that I should probably get back to the hotel.  

"Oh, we haven't had dessert yet!" (of course we were having dessert...)

Before I knew it, I could hear the bubbles of something deep frying in the kitchen.  A few minutes later, I was presented with katayef, which as basically pancakes that were soaked in syrup, stuffed with cheese or walnuts, deep fried, and covered in more syrup.  Clearly, another healthy way for me to end my day.  

Katayef - stuffed with either walnuts or cheese

I was asked which one I preferred and I had to admit that I was given two walnut ones, which were "very good".  Well, apparently this was unacceptable because I was forcefully given a THIRD piece to try the cheese version.  By this point, I just wanted to explode.  Yes, they were good, but I just cannot eat this much rich food in one day.  

In retrospect, the entire night was really a great experience.  I am appreciative, not only of the invitation, but also to the wife of my contact for cooking such an elaborate meal.  I tasted food that I never ate before (and may never eat again), and I learned more about family life in Amman during Ramadan. 

As I try to categorize nightlife in Amman, it definitely can be grouped with the other cities that were not so surprising to me.  I expected a very low-key nightlife and a family-centric culture.  Jordan is more liberal than other Middle Eastern cultures, but it is not to the extreme where people are getting drunk in traditional western bars and abandoning their religious traditions.  It's not a city where I could ever see myself living but it was a great place to spend two weeks.