Muscat, Oman

When I think about the Middle East, several things come to mind: arrogant people, socially conservative behavior, desert landscapes, and hot & humid weather. Oil wealth has rapidly transformed several countries from this region into global economic powerhouses, but people’s attitudes have not adapted to Western morals. I have never been a huge fan of the Middle East, but my visit to Muscat showed me that Oman is unlike its neighbors in many ways.

For one, I was surprised to see so many Omanis working at the hotel since locals would rarely take a job like that in Qatar or UAE. Even in Saudi Arabia, locals are just starting to be forced upon payrolls with limited effectiveness due to their dismal overall work ethic. Unlike neighboring countries, Omanis can be found throughout the workforce and contributing to the local economy.

Don’t just take my word for it. The population of Oman is about 3 million, of which 577k are non-nationals (19%). Compare this with Qatar – a country with 2.2 million people, of which almost 90% are foreign workers. The United Arab Emirates is similar – with over 80% of the population consisting of immigrants. Those two countries really are built on the backs of immigrants. The statistics may seem arbitrary, but I really think the imbalance of power creates a tiered social class structure where locals consider themselves “too good” for many service industries. This is just not the case in Oman, where local hospitality is evident from the moment you walk into any establishment. 

I was also pleasantly surprised by the landscape, which is so different from the barren deserts that comprise much of the region.  Looking out of my window, I could see mountains framing the city. During monsoon season, I was told the mountains actually receive a lot of rain and fog – quite unusual for the Arabian Peninsula.

Muscat skyline - White and more white.

The weather in Muscat is definitely hot, but it felt less humid than other nearby cities. I even went running along the Corniche in the mornings, and did not feel like I was drenched in sweat. Running along the water was actually quite beautiful, although I didn’t see another runner outside during my entire time there.

One of the biggest tourist attractions in Muscat – at least for me – is the Grand Mosque. I took a (surprisingly expensive) taxi from my hotel to visit and I was excited to have the opportunity to tour freely, without regard to my religion. The mosque is located right next to a highway, and the building is much shorter than other mosques in and around Muscat. In contrast to the less-than spectacular curb appeal, I was absolutely amazed when I walked through the complex. It is evident that this mosque is a huge sense of pride for people and I felt privileged to get an up-close look.

View of the mosque from the surrounding gardens

Looking at the main musalla from the outer perimeter

Felt like I was watching the musical "Chicago"

Aside from the main prayer hall (musalla), there was another smaller musalla for women and a series of covered passageways along the perimeter of the grounds. I was lucky to be among a small group of tourists that day, so I could move freely and take a lot of pictures.

Doorway to the women's musalla is much smaller

A woman walks through a quiet corridor

Inside each musalla, the immaculate hand-woven carpet and sparkling Swarovski crystal chandeliers were more beautiful than the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. I love all the detail that goes into these buildings – almost reminiscent of the cathedrals in Europe.

Amazing array of colors inside the musalla

Looking up at the chandelier

Detail in every corner of the main prayer hall

On my last afternoon in Muscat, I passed the time by taking a running tour of the city. I found the overall environment to be unlike anywhere I have visited before. The buildings were all whitewashed and free of character. There was very little advertising on the streets, and everything appeared very clean. Unlike other desert cities, Muscat appeared to have more trees and vegetation. 

There were no skyscrapers like Dubai or Abu Dhabi, so the minarets remained among the tallest structures – dotting the skyline in front of the jagged mountains.

As I passed along the Corniche, some people were enjoying the afternoon by calmly sitting in small groups along the water. There were no intense sports, very few swimsuits, and certainly no drinking. A few children ran around while their parents walked slowly behind them.

Conservative attire at the beach

 

Doesn't feel like the Middle East to me!

I ran past a few streets with cafes overlooking the water (including Tim Horton’s and Starbucks)! It was fun to see people look at me as I ran past – an unusual sight, I’m sure. But aside from the occasional stares, I almost felt like I was in Southern California or Arizona. 

Feeling right at home with Cold Stone and Tim Horton's

View of the coastline from the corniche in Muscat

Of course people are dressed in traditional attire, and the Omani style of dishdasha is also a little different than neighboring countries. The Ankle-length gown has a decorative tassel hanging down from the collar, which was traditionally dipped in perfume. Most of the men also wear a small hat called a “muzzar”. Unlike the long headscarf (keffiyeh) that I wore in Saudi Arabia last month, the muzzar made the overall look appear much less regal / formal. Most women wore dark abayas, but they did not always cover their heads or faces.

Three men in traditional attire, sitting by the water

Men in traditional attire in the lobby of my hotel

From my perspective, cultural traditions in Oman remain strong, but the people also have a more modern outlook. Women can drive. Locals can drink (sparingly). People are proud to welcome tourists. My hotel even has multiple bars and nightclubs, which are frequented by locals and tourists alike. Luxury hotels in Muscat make it easy to forget that you are in a Muslim country.

Sitting at a clear piano in one of the hotel bars

I wish I had time to see more of Oman, but the little that I did see in Muscat left me with a very positive impression. Oman has such a deep history as a strategic trading port, yet the rapid rate of growth is still reaching its potential. It will be interesting to see how the country develops in the years ahead, as Oman takes a different strategy than its more flashy neighbors. Cities like Dubai will always be more well-known for its distinctive and luxurious tourist attractions, but I would recommend Muscat for a more authentic local experience.

Jeddah, Saudi Arabia

There are many countries that recognize the economic benefits of tourism. Saudi Arabia is not one of those countries.

The visa process was more complicated and frustrating than anywhere else I have visited before. I felt like I was on a treasure hunt in order to prepare all the documents that were required. The embassy only accepts applications for a two-hour period each morning, and they declined my first application because I had applied for a “businessman” visa rather than a “commercial visit” visa. What’s the difference?  I have no idea. I think they just wanted me to pay twice. I was finally approved on the evening before my flight.

In contrast to the arduous visa process, my flights on Qatar Airways and Cathay Pacific were fantastic. I was upgraded on both segments, I finally got to watch Gone Girl (which I have been anxiously awaiting for months now), and the food was actually edible.

The new airport in Doha is beautiful

My arrival in Jeddah was just as nerve-wracking as the visa process. Despite being expedited to the terminal with the other business class passengers, I was 12^th in line at passport control. In most countries, that would not be a big problem. In Saudi Arabia, it means waiting 1.5 hours. The immigrations officers constantly took breaks between passengers and it was impossible to predict when they would return to their seats. After what felt like an eternity, I finally passed through immigration, picked up my luggage, and found my driver by 3AM. I was exhausted.

They don't mess around with drugs in Saudi Arabia!

This was my second time traveling to Jeddah and I was happy to be staying at the same luxurious oasis. Even though almost 3 years had passed since my last visit, it seemed as though nothing had changed.  Walking through the hotel, I felt like I was somewhere exclusive and special. It is hard to explain, but people have an air of superiority and a confident swagger that is uniquely "Saudi".

Beautiful views of the Red Sea from my hotel

Hotel lobby at night

During the weekend, a local colleague offered to take me to the old city (called "al-balad"). It honestly felt like I was stepping into a movie set. The architectural style, tiny shops, and street vendors were so cool to see. Watching everyone in traditional attire further added to the faux-cinematic experience. In a world where tourists seems to be omnipresent, I feel fortunate to visit a place that has remained immune to the influx of Western travelers. It almost makes the visa hassles seem worthwhile. 

One of the streets in the old balad of Jeddah

Shop owners wait for customers on a Saturday afternoon

Produce vendors in al-balad

My colleague wanted me to get a custom-tailored dish dash, so he took me to his favorite shop for a personal measurement. The precision with which the tailor noted my sizes was really quite impressive. I did not expect this careful attention to detail for such a seemingly-simple garment. I am not sure when I will ever wear it again in the future, but I am excited to be getting such a unique souvenir from Saudi Arabia.

Custom tailoring

More textiles and prayer mats for sale

Meat hangs boldly from the window of the butcher shop

I don't really associate the Middle East with historical buildings, but the architectural style in al-balad clearly reflects a time when modern conveniences like air-conditioning did not exist. Just look at the small windows with heavy shutters to keep out the midday sun. 

Traditional architecture keeps out the intense sunlight

Even the open-air markets had a roof to shield against the intense sunlight:
 

Shoppers stroll along the open air market

As we walked through the market, I noticed men gathering around a table that looked to be full of sticks. I was told by my colleague that these "sticks" were actually used as toothbrushes in historic times because of a slight minty flavor beneath the bark. I tried using one, but I did not feel like my teeth were getting any cleaner...

Men shop for traditional "toothbrushes"

One thing I have learned from my travel in the Middle East is that dates are serious business. No, not girlfriend/boyfriend dates...I'm talking about the carbohydrate-loaded delicacies that grow on palm trees. I passed several shops that specialize in dates, and learned that the variety is much greater than my simple palate can differentiate.

Dates seem to be the national food of Saudi Arabia

Visitors to Saudi Arabia need to realize that nearly all activity grinds to a halt during prayer times. Shops close for 20 minutes so the employees can pray, and the religious police actually patrol the streets to ensure that everyone is following the moral code. Last time I visited Jeddah was during Ramadan, which was even more intrusive to daily life. I was not allowed to eat in public during fasting hours, and the only real activity around the city took place during the overnight hours. 

One night, my colleague and I were waiting in the car for a restaurant to re-open, and I asked him what would happen if people were in the middle of a movie at a cinema during a call to prayer (thinking that they would stop the movie briefly). I was surprised when he responded that it would not be an issue. Why? ...because cinemas are banned in Saudi Arabia.

Prayer time in Saudi Arabia

Building in al-balad has a speaker for the daily calls to prayer

With so many forms of entertainment banned in Saudi Arabia, it is no surprise that food is such an important element of social culture. Throughout my 2-week stay, I ate more than I normally do in a month. Buffets are commonplace and I found it almost impossible to eat a meal with less than 3 courses.

There were several team dinners during my trip. One night, the entire Finance team was invited for a formal dinner hosted by one of the new staff members. He literally rented out an entire banquet hall and brought in enough food to serve a village. It was such a nice gesture, and I can now say that I have eaten camel meat (it tasted like pot roast).

The generous hosts for our banquet-style dinner

The banquet hall was the size of a football field

I would be remiss to recap the trip to Saudi Arabia and not mention anything about women's rights. Without even realizing it, I did not speak to one single women throughout my entire trip. I suppose it is not surprising, considering that women are not allowed to go out in public alone, drive a car, or even travel without the permission of their male guardian. Restaurants have separate dining areas for men and women, fitness facilities are gender-specific, and even wedding receptions are separate. Could you imagine getting married and not even celebrating alongside your new spouse? It's such a huge cultural difference. 

Lecture halls in universities are also separated by gender, and male professors are prohibited from lecturing face-to-face with their female students. Instead, they lecture to a video camera and the image is broadcast on a screen for the girls to take notes. 

Even the abayas that women wear make them appear like mere shadows, alongside their sheik-like husbands. From what I hear, Saudi women are starting to challenge the status quo, but I do not expect anything to change in the near future.

Women are almost invisible in Saudi Arabia

In a country where fuel is cheaper than water, the seemingly-endless supply of liquid gold has allowed people to become complacent. Work ethic is simply not at the level it needs to be for Saudi Arabia to compete in the global economy. The government is starting to recognize this, so they have funded many scholarships for students to study internationally. They have also implemented a requirement for all local companies to hire at least 35% Saudi workers. 

To achieve this requirement, a lot of companies are putting ghost employees on the books, even though the majority of Saudi "employees" don't even come to the office. In fact, the HR director said that a lot of candidates actually ask if they need to come to work after they have been hired. This would be a ridiculous question in most countries, but it is completely justified in Saudi Arabia.

One of the best parts of my job is being able to learn about such a wide variety of cultures around the world. Even though I experienced only a small aspect of the Saudi lifestyle, I found it completely fascinating. The place where I grew up is such a sharp contrast to the atmosphere that I witnessed over the past two weeks, but I loved embracing their world for just a short period of time. 

Acclimating to the Saudi culture on my last day in the office