Muscat, Oman

When I think about the Middle East, several things come to mind: arrogant people, socially conservative behavior, desert landscapes, and hot & humid weather. Oil wealth has rapidly transformed several countries from this region into global economic powerhouses, but people’s attitudes have not adapted to Western morals. I have never been a huge fan of the Middle East, but my visit to Muscat showed me that Oman is unlike its neighbors in many ways.

For one, I was surprised to see so many Omanis working at the hotel since locals would rarely take a job like that in Qatar or UAE. Even in Saudi Arabia, locals are just starting to be forced upon payrolls with limited effectiveness due to their dismal overall work ethic. Unlike neighboring countries, Omanis can be found throughout the workforce and contributing to the local economy.

Don’t just take my word for it. The population of Oman is about 3 million, of which 577k are non-nationals (19%). Compare this with Qatar – a country with 2.2 million people, of which almost 90% are foreign workers. The United Arab Emirates is similar – with over 80% of the population consisting of immigrants. Those two countries really are built on the backs of immigrants. The statistics may seem arbitrary, but I really think the imbalance of power creates a tiered social class structure where locals consider themselves “too good” for many service industries. This is just not the case in Oman, where local hospitality is evident from the moment you walk into any establishment. 

I was also pleasantly surprised by the landscape, which is so different from the barren deserts that comprise much of the region.  Looking out of my window, I could see mountains framing the city. During monsoon season, I was told the mountains actually receive a lot of rain and fog – quite unusual for the Arabian Peninsula.

Muscat skyline - White and more white.

The weather in Muscat is definitely hot, but it felt less humid than other nearby cities. I even went running along the Corniche in the mornings, and did not feel like I was drenched in sweat. Running along the water was actually quite beautiful, although I didn’t see another runner outside during my entire time there.

One of the biggest tourist attractions in Muscat – at least for me – is the Grand Mosque. I took a (surprisingly expensive) taxi from my hotel to visit and I was excited to have the opportunity to tour freely, without regard to my religion. The mosque is located right next to a highway, and the building is much shorter than other mosques in and around Muscat. In contrast to the less-than spectacular curb appeal, I was absolutely amazed when I walked through the complex. It is evident that this mosque is a huge sense of pride for people and I felt privileged to get an up-close look.

View of the mosque from the surrounding gardens

Looking at the main musalla from the outer perimeter

Felt like I was watching the musical "Chicago"

Aside from the main prayer hall (musalla), there was another smaller musalla for women and a series of covered passageways along the perimeter of the grounds. I was lucky to be among a small group of tourists that day, so I could move freely and take a lot of pictures.

Doorway to the women's musalla is much smaller

A woman walks through a quiet corridor

Inside each musalla, the immaculate hand-woven carpet and sparkling Swarovski crystal chandeliers were more beautiful than the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi. I love all the detail that goes into these buildings – almost reminiscent of the cathedrals in Europe.

Amazing array of colors inside the musalla

Looking up at the chandelier

Detail in every corner of the main prayer hall

On my last afternoon in Muscat, I passed the time by taking a running tour of the city. I found the overall environment to be unlike anywhere I have visited before. The buildings were all whitewashed and free of character. There was very little advertising on the streets, and everything appeared very clean. Unlike other desert cities, Muscat appeared to have more trees and vegetation. 

There were no skyscrapers like Dubai or Abu Dhabi, so the minarets remained among the tallest structures – dotting the skyline in front of the jagged mountains.

As I passed along the Corniche, some people were enjoying the afternoon by calmly sitting in small groups along the water. There were no intense sports, very few swimsuits, and certainly no drinking. A few children ran around while their parents walked slowly behind them.

Conservative attire at the beach

 

Doesn't feel like the Middle East to me!

I ran past a few streets with cafes overlooking the water (including Tim Horton’s and Starbucks)! It was fun to see people look at me as I ran past – an unusual sight, I’m sure. But aside from the occasional stares, I almost felt like I was in Southern California or Arizona. 

Feeling right at home with Cold Stone and Tim Horton's

View of the coastline from the corniche in Muscat

Of course people are dressed in traditional attire, and the Omani style of dishdasha is also a little different than neighboring countries. The Ankle-length gown has a decorative tassel hanging down from the collar, which was traditionally dipped in perfume. Most of the men also wear a small hat called a “muzzar”. Unlike the long headscarf (keffiyeh) that I wore in Saudi Arabia last month, the muzzar made the overall look appear much less regal / formal. Most women wore dark abayas, but they did not always cover their heads or faces.

Three men in traditional attire, sitting by the water

Men in traditional attire in the lobby of my hotel

From my perspective, cultural traditions in Oman remain strong, but the people also have a more modern outlook. Women can drive. Locals can drink (sparingly). People are proud to welcome tourists. My hotel even has multiple bars and nightclubs, which are frequented by locals and tourists alike. Luxury hotels in Muscat make it easy to forget that you are in a Muslim country.

Sitting at a clear piano in one of the hotel bars

I wish I had time to see more of Oman, but the little that I did see in Muscat left me with a very positive impression. Oman has such a deep history as a strategic trading port, yet the rapid rate of growth is still reaching its potential. It will be interesting to see how the country develops in the years ahead, as Oman takes a different strategy than its more flashy neighbors. Cities like Dubai will always be more well-known for its distinctive and luxurious tourist attractions, but I would recommend Muscat for a more authentic local experience.

Weekend with the locals in Hyderabad

On Friday afternoon, the local director in Hyderabad asked: "So, do you have any plans for the weekend?"

I truthfully admitted that we do not. 

His response: "Good, because we have plans for you" (big smile)

Me: "Oh that sounds great" (nervous half-smile)

At the end of the workday (which happened to be around 7:30 pm), a couple guys on the team asked me and my trainee to change so we could all go out for the evening.  A few minutes later, we were in the back of a hotel car and en route to a nearby temple. 

I thought back to the many Friday nights in Chicago that I spent with my colleagues after work.  Not once did these evenings begin with a trip to the temple.  

We removed our shoes at the front gate and walked through the stone enclosure.  As expected, every wall was elaborately decorated with scenes involving the many gods.  I tried asking questions to learn more about the scenes but the responses were not too detailed (beyond what I could see from looking at the images myself).  It made me wonder if most people even know much about the details of their religion or if they simply visit the temples out of routine and obligation.  Either way, it was an interesting experience and I enjoyed integrating myself into local culture (even though I probably looked completely out of place). 

One of the many scenes depicted on the walls

Central structure within the temple walls

From there, we drove through the city and stopped at a few sites that I remembered from past trips to Hyderabad.  At one point, we hit bad traffic and I noticed a broken down bus up ahead.  Then, suddenly, a bunch of passengers exited the rear door and started pushing the bus.  I literally couldn't contain my laughter, as I thought about that scenario in Chicago.  The passengers would NEVER even consider such assistance.  It's a different world out here. 

For dinner, we stopped at a well-known local chain called Paradise for some biryani.  Biryani is actually one of the few Indian foods that I enjoy because it is a simple rice dish with vegetables (or meat) and spices.  No mystery sauces that disguise the true ingredients, no yogurt, and no mustard.  The restaurant was described to me as "Mc Donald's" for biryani, which was frightening.  Fortunately, the fast-food concept was only for the street level, but there is a premium full-service restaurant on the second floor.  I think I was the only white person in the entire restaurant, but the service in India is so gracious that I didn't feel uncomfortable.  In fact, the people go out of their way to make you feel special.  (Part of me wishes they could just treat me like a regular customer because I don't like being the center of attention).

On the way out, the local guys insisted that we try paan, which is a traditional food that involves all sorts of "stuff", wrapped into a leaf.  As soon as I bit into it, my mouth was immediately filled with flavors of dish detergent and grass.  My first instinct was to immediately spit it out into my hand, but I didn't want to be rude so I tried to force some of it down my throat.  Bad idea.  I stored the rest of it on the side of my mouth until we reached the car and I had the chance to inconspicuously spit out the rest onto the sidewalk. Tip of the night: don't EVER eat paan.  

paan on the inside

I spent the next morning in a much more comfortable environment: the spa.  I didn't eat much throughout the day because I was still full from all the food that was forced onto my plate from the night before.  I have decided that being a "guest" for meals is stressful (even if they're not home cooked) because people are so eager to make you enjoy the local specialties.  It's so nice but it's also a lot of pressure in a region where food is very difficult for my palette.  

Saturday evening, we went out again - this time to the mall.  Yup, the mall.  Apparently, this is the hot spot in Hyderabad because it was filled with people.  The experience started on the awkward side because I really have no desire to shop while other people are watching me.  Maybe I've been alone for too long, but I just don't understand the appeal of shopping with other people.  Much like running, everyone has his own pace and I'd rather save the conversations for another time.  

Fortunately, the shopping part of the night was short-lived, as we stopped at an outdoor bar and shared a giant pitcher of beer.  (This bar was next to Chili's, which made me feel right at home).  If there weren't so many Indian people around, I would swear I was at a suburban mall in the United States.  

I really appreciated the time that the local team spent to entertain us during the weekend - especially considering that they work 6 day weeks and spend long hours commuting to the office each day. They managed to get me out of the hotel twice (which is a feat in itself while traveling in India).  I have a long way to go before feeling like a local, but this was a step in the right direction.