Nightlife

Nightlife is such an important element of any city's identity.  In some places that I have visited, the atmosphere of the best restaurants and bars is a sharp contrast to daily life.  This new perspective really helps to give me a more well-rounded opinion of the city.  Unfortunately,  I don't always get the chance to go out much because I am usually traveling on my own.  So, whenever local staff members offer to take me somewhere, I always jump at the opportunity.  

Some of my best memories from this year involve nights out with the staff.  In Casablanca, I discovered a completely different side of the city when a couple people took me out for my last night.  Daily life in Casablanca felt chaotic and even dangerous, but the nightclub we visited felt like an upscale bar in South Beach.  I couldn't have been more pleasantly surprised. 

Mexico and South Africa, on the other hand, offered nightlife that was exactly what I would have imagined.  In Merida, the city center was filled with people (mostly families) - eating carnivalesque food, buying giant balloons for their kids, and enjoying simple food at local bars that had probably been family-owned for generations.  Johannesburg (particularly Rosebank) offered its "best" bars/restaurants in a shopping mall. The nightclub I visited (Maxi's) was filled with a very diverse crowd - smoking cigars and dancing to a live african band.  

I was excited when one of the girls in Amman asked what I was doing after work on Tuesday.  We started the evening by exploring the historic sites at night.  While we were walking around near the Roman Amphitheater, one of the security guards asked me where I was from.  Normally I say that I'm Canadian or Swiss to avoid any anti-American rhetoric, but I had to be honest since I was around two people who actually know my background.  

The guard started telling me a little about Amman's history and then took me to his friend's antique shop (of course) to see if anything appealed to me.  I looked around politely for a couple minutes without picking up a single item because I didn't want to show particular interest in anything!  I think it's funny that anywhere I go, people assume that Americans will buy whatever junk you show to them.   

Here we are, showing off our "guns" in downtown Amman!

We continued walking through the downtown area a bit more and passed lots of small shops selling mostly low-quality clothing, shoes, and bags.  I couldn't believe how busy the city was at 11pm on a random Tuesday night.  We eventually made it up to Rainbow Street (a popular area for outdoor bars and cafes) and sat at one of the outdoor tables of a restaurant for some fresh juice.   

Most people were just sitting quietly at the tables, flanked by hookah pipes (aka: hubbly bubbly) and talking to each other only occasionally.  The scene was laid-back and quiet...similar to what I have experienced in other Middle Eastern cities and completely different from bars in Europe or North America, where everyone is drunk and yelling just to hear each other.  

The waiter laid out plates of Arabic desserts on our table, which are sickly sweet, but so good.  My favorite is called Awamat, which is basically a tiny ball of deep fried dough...crunchy on the outside and filled with a doughy, syrup-filled center.  I literally kept saying: "ok, this is my last one."  So much for all my hours in the gym this week...

Here's what Awamat look like.  

The next morning, I was dragging a little because of insufficient sleep but happy that I had a chance to go out the night before.  As I was checking my e-mail and easing into the day, my main contact person peeked his head into my office and asked: "What are you doing tonight?"

I told him that I had no plans and he invited me to a home-cooked Iftar dinner at his home.  My entire mind was immediately filled with fear.  I hate being invited to dinner because it doesn't give me any element of food choice.  As an extremely picky eater, this is dangerous when I also have to balance not offending the host, who is rightfully proud of the food that they have made.  

There has been more than one occasion where I have had to create a totally awkward moment by honestly admitting that I can't eat the food that has been presented to me because it contained one of my "no way" ingredients (mustard, mayonnaise, ketchup, cream, and/or italian style tomato sauce).
  
I literally spent half the day thinking about the foods that I have seen at other Iftar buffets and calculating my chances of disaster.  Fortunately, I couldn't think of any main courses that would be off-limits.  My fingers were crossed. 

When I arrived, I felt a little awkward at first because I don't often eat dinner with families that I have never met - especially in their homes.  We just started talking about all sorts of random things and before I knew it, the food was about to be unveiled.  To my relief, everything on the table was edible: hummus and falafel, some sort of green bean and beef salad, and lamb shank with rice and almonds.  I could tell that the lamb was marinated in a yogurt, but I could tolerate that. 

They literally piled the food on my plate as if I hadn't eaten in weeks and I had to constantly say: "oh, that's more than enough!"  The wife had also made this rich sauce for the meat, which was a little too much to handle.  Unfortunately, she noticed when I put only a small amount on the meat and commented: "Oh, you don't like the sauce?  That's ok...I know it is probably not popular for people who aren't used to our food."   

I responded, "no, I love it!" and reluctantly added another spoonful.  I guess all mothers are the same when it comes to feeding people.  After all the excessive guilt eating, I was very full but also proud of myself for trying to eat all that was served to me.     

After dinner, we went out to the balcony for some tea and more conversation.  Even though I'm never a big fan of "homey" things, it really was nice to experience such an authentic family atmosphere during Ramadan.  I figured it was my decision when to call it quits, so I looked at my watch around 11pm and said that I should probably get back to the hotel.  

"Oh, we haven't had dessert yet!" (of course we were having dessert...)

Before I knew it, I could hear the bubbles of something deep frying in the kitchen.  A few minutes later, I was presented with katayef, which as basically pancakes that were soaked in syrup, stuffed with cheese or walnuts, deep fried, and covered in more syrup.  Clearly, another healthy way for me to end my day.  

Katayef - stuffed with either walnuts or cheese

I was asked which one I preferred and I had to admit that I was given two walnut ones, which were "very good".  Well, apparently this was unacceptable because I was forcefully given a THIRD piece to try the cheese version.  By this point, I just wanted to explode.  Yes, they were good, but I just cannot eat this much rich food in one day.  

In retrospect, the entire night was really a great experience.  I am appreciative, not only of the invitation, but also to the wife of my contact for cooking such an elaborate meal.  I tasted food that I never ate before (and may never eat again), and I learned more about family life in Amman during Ramadan. 

As I try to categorize nightlife in Amman, it definitely can be grouped with the other cities that were not so surprising to me.  I expected a very low-key nightlife and a family-centric culture.  Jordan is more liberal than other Middle Eastern cultures, but it is not to the extreme where people are getting drunk in traditional western bars and abandoning their religious traditions.  It's not a city where I could ever see myself living but it was a great place to spend two weeks. 

Pilanesberg Game Reserve

I never really understood the appeal of a safari.  To me, it just sounded like a trip to an expensive zoo that doesn't tell you where any of the animals are located.  When I found out I would be going to Africa for work, I didn't even bother researching safaris as possible weekend excursions.  Then, on the last day of the Johannesburg project, I found out my trip would be extended for an additional week.

A third week in a boring city with nothing to do?? (sad face)

I needed to escape so I took this as a hint that I should at least enquire about a safari.  Where else was I supposed to go? Swaziland?

The concierge recommended a tour company called "Not for Sissies".  I already liked the sound of this.  The girl I spoke with totally sold me on the idea so I booked a trip to Pilanesberg Game Reserve. 

The ride took about 2 hours and I got to relax in a 15-passenger van with only the driver and one other person.  I had quite a few laughs on the way because people kept mistaking our van for one of the public buses and they were jumping around with their hand signals, trying to get us to pick them up.  

When we arrived at Pilanesberg, the first thing I saw was a few zebras alongside the access road to the hotel.  I immediately pulled out my camera and began snapping photos as if these would be the only animals I would see the entire weekend!

The first of many animal sightings!

The hotel was actually situated inside the border of the game reserve and the fences along the property even included warnings about the animals that may approach.   

Apparently elephants are scared by loud noises

We sat down for lunch and a bird landed on the empty seat across from me.  SO EXCITING!  I had to take another picture! (Normally, I'm not a fan of birds but it's completely different on a safari...)  During the meal, several other animals that I didn't recognize started grazing near the fence.  For someone who didn't initially want to take a safari, I certainly got excited about seeing these animals in their natural habitat.   

Hopefully this won't be the highlight of the safari!

After lunch, we boarded our cool safari vehicles (aka: pimped out flatbed trucks).  I opted for the last seat, just in case an animal comes up from behind! The adventure was about to begin. 

Into the wild!

Each of the trucks drove in a different direction in search of "the Big Five" (lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, rhino) and the drivers communicated with each other via radio if they found something exciting.  The first animals we saw were some hippos lying next to a pond.  I'll be honest, they were so far away that it just looked like two big (fat) rocks.  

We then saw some baboons and monkeys in a field nearby and some other four-legged deer type animals.  (I'm not up-to-date with the African animal species so bear with me...) 

Monkeys, warthogs, and other things - all coexisting in nature!

A little further along, we caught a couple giraffes and some more four-legged animals.  Even though giraffes are ugly up close, I think they look really majestic from a distance.  By this point, any fears I had of not seeing enough animals were dissipating.  They were everywhere!

The real excitement began when the trucks got further into the park.  One of the groups spotted an elephant, so we sped over to their location.  I didn't even see the elephant when we first arrived (no joke!).  It was only after the ears started flopping that I realized it wasn't just a big boulder behind some trees.  

In a zoo, it's really easy to see the animals because all you have to do is search for the one thing moving in each pen.  In the wild, it is completely different.  I never appreciated camouflage  before this trip but I am finally realizing how well the animals can blend in to their surroundings.  

Camouflaged?  I think so...

Before long, another radio announcement was coming in...this time for a lion on the hunt!  The trucks came from all different directions to find the lion creeping around in search of a mama warthog and her two babies.  As the hunt moved, so did the trucks. We all sat with our cameras ready but, in the end, there was no attack.  It was actually really interesting to watch the warthog protecting her babies and herding them into safety.  

The lion is on the prowl!

Just as the sun was setting, we came across two white rhinos.  Let me tell you - they were absolutely huge (no camouflage there!).   With the rhino viewing, our 'big 5' tally had reached 4.  Even though we missed out on the leopard, I think all the other animals more-than made up for it.    

After a long afternoon of searching for animals, we filled up on meat with a traditional braai (BBQ) for dinner.  Then, we set out again for a night ride.  By this point, the weather had gotten a lot colder and our sight lines were limited to only what was lit up from the spotlights on the trucks.  My sense of fear was slightly heightened because you couldn't see anything until it was really close.  We did manage to see a few more animals but it was nothing compared with the vast array of species that were out during the day. 

I wonder if any of this meat was roaming around on the reserve recently?

  

Reflecting on the overall safari, it far exceeded my expectations.  Seeing animals in their natural environment is really exciting because you never know what you are about to witness.  I was completely captivated by the entire experience and it was a lot of fun to play 'hide and seek' with the animals.  I don't know if I would ever book a week-long safari but I would highly recommend the experience to anyone else who has the chance to be in Africa.  It's nothing like the zoo.    

Soweto

With only one full weekend in each city, I need to plan my sightseeing carefully so I can see as much as possible.  Does this planning ever happen?  Absolutely not. 

Saturday morning, I woke up late, ate breakfast, went to the gym, and stopped at the concierge desk for a map and some tour options.  The concierge told me: "A tour of Soweto just left 10 minutes ago.  If you are ready to leave right now, we can take you to meet up with them."  I had no idea what Soweto was but figured it must be worth seeing, so I agreed. 

What I didn't realize was that "taking me to meet up with them" involved speeding down the highway at the speed of light until we could catch the tour guide.  As we whizzed past downtown, my driver started pointing out buildings instead of looking at the road.  I was too busy watching my life pass before my eyes to really appreciate the sights, but I did manage to snap a picture of the Coke building.  Apparently nothing else is worth seeing. 

Downtown Johannesburg

We eventually met up with the tour guide just in time for me to hear about the history of Soweto (short for: south western townships).  These townships were established under the apartheid government at the turn of the century, when blacks were forcefully relocated here.  As we drove through the streets, I could not believe what I was seeing: tiny accommodations that looked more like outhouses than homes.  In fact, my hotel room is probably bigger than most homes that are occupied by entire families.  

One of the poorest areas of the Soweto.  

We stopped at a busy square and got out of the car to walk around.  Even though I was completely out of place, I felt welcomed by everyone who I encountered.  This commercial zone reminded me of many I had been before in other countries, where people set up little makeshift shops alongside one another.  Some were selling produce and various snacks, while others had DVD's or cheap clothing.  There were even people who had set up informal hair salons on the side of the road with nothing more than a chair and a series of photos representing hairstyle options.  It was an organized chaos, but the mood was positive.  

Shopping in Soweto

Just another quiet day in Soweto

We then drove through some more residential areas - this time hostels, where single men would live in giant rooms with 18-20 beds.  I couldn't imagine living in such close quarters with so many other people - it's no wonder there has been such a history of violence. 

Next on the tour, I discovered a shebeen (unlicensed bar) and a really cool bungee jump that was set along the top of a defunct nuclear power plant.  Apparently this was the site of a challenge when 'The Amazing Race' came to Joburg.  I wanted to jump but I felt badly asking the others to wait.  

Anyone care for a jump?

I also learned about public transportation in Joburg.  There is a series of 15-passenger vans that drive along the city in various directions.  If you see one coming, you are supposed to hold up your hand with a gesture to indicate the direction you want to go.  If the driver is also going in that direction, he will stop and pick you up.  There is no schedule or set route.  It is amazing to me that a major city like Johannesburg is stuck with such a primitive public transportation network. 

Here are the hand signals if you ever want to take a public bus in Joburg

The highlight of the tour was the apartheid museum, which was located near the former homes of both Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu.  (Soweto is the only place in the world to have raised two nobel prize winners).  Throughout the tour, it became quite apparent that despite government efforts to segregate the population, there is no way to suppress the human spirit.  The history of racial segregation in South Africa is so much deeper than I imagined and it is clear that many people still live in very challenging environments.   

A tribute to those who gave their lives for freedom, peace, and democracy

Returning to the hotel, I felt a wide range of emotions.  I was saddened by the history of racial segregation in South Africa and also in my own country.  I was encouraged by the mental stamina exhibited by people like Nelson Mandela, Hector Peterson, and so many others who promoted progress.  Most of all, I was grateful for the many opportunities I have been given to succeed in life.  My success is certainly a result of hard work but it also would not have been possible without access to the best education and a strong support network.  This day has certainly broadened my view of the world and, for that, I am grateful.   

Johannesburg Impressions

The next stop on my tour around the world was Johannesburg – a huge city that emerged from gold mining and became famous as the home of Nelson Mandela and the apartheid movement.   I was excited to visit South Africa because it is a completely new part of the world for me. 

Driving to the hotel, my first impression of the city was that it reminded me of Los Angeles.  Public transportation is really underdeveloped, so everyone is forced to have a car.  The homes are all set behind high walls and most appear to have painted stucco exteriors.  No one really wants to go downtown because all the higher-end restaurants and shops are all in suburban areas. Plus, the weather in the winter never gets too cold and rain is very unusual.

Of course there are also some key differences.  Remember those walls I mentioned that surround the homes?  They’re topped with barbed wire.  Water, beaches, and surfers also do not exist in Johannesburg like they do in LA.  Also, as expected, the cultural makeup of the population is completely different.  One other big difference: Every intersection is like a mini shopping mall.  Flowers, food, newspapers...these people sell it all!

Every intersection provides an opportunity to shop in Joburg!

I arrived at my hotel and checked out the view… Not impressed.  The hotel is attached to a mall and located in the middle of a neighborhood.  To be honest, there really isn’t anything worth looking at from anywhere in Johannesburg so I didn't feel like I was missing out on anything. 

View of the mall from my hotel room in Johannesburg

The next day, I wasn’t feeling adventurous enough to explore the city so I decided to just browse through the mall.  Near the entrance was a group of children, dressed in traditional African garb and doing a tribal dance.  I shouldn’t even admit this, but it looked to me like a bunch of Americans were asked to dress in costume and imitate an African dance.  Maybe I still haven’t embraced the fact that I’m actually in Africa, not LA.  I felt immediately guilty and gave them 20 rand.  

Authentic African entertainment

As I walked through the mall, the feeling of being in America came to an abrupt end.  There was a “J Crew” store that looked nothing like any J Crew I have ever seen.  It was more like Sears pretending to be J Crew.  I actually laughed when I looked at some of the clothes on the racks.  

This is nothing like any J Crew store I have ever seen before.

I was actually on a mission to buy new running shoes but the ones on display in the Nike store looked even less authentic than the ones I saw in the medina of Casablanca.  There were some shoes on display in a department store but when I walked in, I was distracted by the Gap and Banana Republic displays.  The khakis looked like second-hand styles from 2001 and the prices were literally three times what I would expect to pay in the US.  If this store manages to sell any of these clothes at full price, I need to take a lesson from the Gap Inc. brand manager in South Africa!

Just when I thought my mall experience had reached the height of entertainment, I noticed a Marlboro clothing store.  Do people actually think that a “Marlboro” label will make their clothes look good? I don’t think I can shop in South Africa because it is like an alternate universe. 

I wouldn't be caught dead in anything from this store

In the end, I was forced to buy some shoes because the ones I’m using now are literally starting to cause me injuries.  I didn’t want to go with the plastic Nike’s so I opted for a pair of all-white Asics that look like they are designed for 60-year-old men.  It's sad when you buy shoes that you know are less stylish than what your Dad wears.  At least I don’t have to wear them around anyone who knows me for the next three months. These shoes will definitely not be making the flight back to America!

After all the retail entertainment, I was hungry and I decided to order the most unusual thing I could find on the dinner menu.  The winner was…wait for it…crocodile tail!  I know what you’re thinking: “Did it taste like chicken?”  No…it tasted more like pork – the other white meat.  My palette was thoroughly impressed.    

Crocodile tail: Even further from the 'other' white meat

By the time my first full day in South Africa had ended, I no longer felt like I was in LA.  Instead, I just felt like I was in the most hilarious city ever.  I couldn’t wait for the next two weeks.