Golden Temple in Amritsar

Throughout my week in Amritsar, everyone told me the same thing: "You must see the Golden Temple"!

This small city in northern India is the birthplace of the Sikh religion and it now serves as the spiritual hub for 27 million followers around the world.  The local economy is dominated by tourism and the majority of people in my hotel seemed to be there for the sole purpose of visiting the temple.

Before even learning anything about the religion, I could identify Sikh men from their turban (dastar).  My estimate is that at least half the men in Amritsar were wearing turbans of different colors, which provided a unique contrast to other parts of the country.  

Every time I ventured outside the hotel, it was evident that Amritsar does not host many Westerners because I got plenty of stares.  There were multiple times when groups of guys approached me to make casual conversation (although never groups of girls).  I could live without the staring, but I always appreciate when people start a friendly conversation.        

Before even visiting Golden Temple, I experienced another element of the Sikh religion every morning: sunrise chanting.  Generally, I prefer my morning alarm to be a little later than 5:30AM, but there is not much I can do to change their religious traditions.  At least this was better than the constant sound of car horns from the other side of the hotel. 

On Friday night, I finally found some time to visit the temple after work. Fortunately, it is right in the city center and the hotel operates a shuttle.  All vehicles are required to stop about a half-mile from the entrance and visitors have the option to walk or hire a bicycle carriage (kinda like a horse-drawn carriage but without the horse).  The street leading towards the temple is lined with food vendors, souvenir shops, and people selling scarves for non-dastar-wearing visitors to wear over their heads (everyone's head must be covered to enter the temple). 

All visitors are also required to remove their shoes, which is typical in India.  While I was waiting to give mine to the attendant, several more people approached me to ask where I am from.  Despite being a major local tourist attraction, Golden Temple still does not attract too many Western tourists.  This may also be because most Sihk are of Indian descent, so someone like me would always stand out.  

I passed through an unassuming archway and my first sight was of a beautiful gilded structure; it was lit beautifully and sitting in the middle of a giant pool of water.  Immediately, I could see what all the hype is about.  

Golden Temple, as seen from the entrance gate

Descending the marble staircase, I noticed people falling to their knees and pressing their foreheads to the ground in a sign of worship.  I looked to my left and saw a large screen that was broadcasting the rituals happening inside the temple.  Meanwhile, groups of men with long beards walked slowly along the perimeter of the pool and chanted their own Gurbani.

To be honest, the whole experience was confusing and a little overwhelming.  I felt like I was somewhere I didn’t belong; yet no one seemed to notice.  They were too busy with their own religious experiences to be bothered by the white guy wandering around aimlessly. 

Procession around the perimeter of the holy lake

There was a long line of people waiting to enter the temple and I decided to join the queue.  There were several times when people behind me in line were touching my back and even pushing me (as if I could go anywhere).  Everyone seemed to have such a sense of urgency to enter and I made no efforts to fight for my space in line. 

The pathway to enter Golden Temple

It was quite the line...

I gradually got passed by a handful of people who felt the need to push in front of me, but I eventually approached the doorway of the temple.  Inside, the religious leader was seated on the ground with the book of gurus in front of him.  Surrounding him were a few people playing instruments and chanting some well-rehearsed lines.  I vaguely remember someone else waving around a giant paintbrush-looking object but maybe I am making that up!  

Most visitors slowly walked around the perimeter of the room, although a few people simply sat down against the wall.  They were claiming valuable real estate and blocking everyone else’s steps but no one seemed to mind.  It was cool to see the inside of the temple, but I had no desire to hang around for longer than necessary.  

Once I got outside again, there was a separate queue for ascending to the balcony level but I didn’t find it necessary.  The crowds were a bit much and I didn't feel justified in fighting for a space among people who were there for religious reasons.

No photos allowed inside, but I snuck one at the doorway

Detail of the gilded exterior

As I was taking pictures of the temple, two other guys approached me.  One asked where I was from, whether I was married, and then, why I wasn’t married.  He then questioned whether I wanted an Indian girlfriend, to which I laughed and replied simply that I do not.  He looked at the other guy, then he looked back at me and said: “This is my boyfriend…um...I mean my best friend”. 

Personally, I think “boyfriend” may have been the more accurate title, but who am I to assume... 

They asked if I wanted to sit and talk for a few minutes but I politely declined.  Were they hitting on me? 

I escaped the conversation before it became even more awkward and continued my sightseeing (alone).  There was a meal being served inside one of the buildings, which I learned is an important aspect of Sikhism.  This religion has a major focus on equality and charity.  Everyone eats together, which is a nice message in a country where the divisions between rich and poor are usually so vast. 

When I went around to the other side of the lake, I noticed some people stripping off their clothes and bathing in the holy water.  I also saw this sign below (which I didn't fully understand) and I couldn't help but wonder why people would be throwing "eatables" into holy water.  

I love funny signs. 

Overall, visiting Golden Temple was an experience that I will never forget.  Even though I did not understand what was going on, the energy was unlike any other temple I have visited in India.  Everyone was right – if you’re in Punjab, you must visit Golden Temple.  You may even get a date out of it… 

Obligatory tourist picture in front of the temple.