Kathmandu, Nepal

I think it is human nature to find familiarity in things that are otherwise foreign.  There are so many times I have traveled and thought to myself: “Oh, this place reminds me of _____ (fill in the blank).”  Even the travel guides encourage comparisons with lines like: “Buenos Aires is the Paris of South America” or “Macau is the Las Vegas of the East.” 

While discovering Kathmandu, I could not compare the overall experience to anywhere I had visited in my life.  Some elements of local culture reminded me of India, while other elements were much more Asian.  In my opinion, the fusion of the two regions was what made Nepal such an interesting place to visit.  Here are some of the unique things I experienced during my two weeks there:

1) Language

I noticed that the Nepali language uses the same script as Hindu although hearing people speak sounds quite different.  Everyone seems to understand English well (probably thanks to the booming tourism industry), and most things are also written in English (which made my work life a lot easier). 

I was told that there are also over 100 local languages spoken across the country, but they are starting to die out as young people communicate primarily in Nepali and English.  I keep thinking about how much fun it would be to speak a language that is only understood by such a select number of people worldwide.  I could travel with my friends and talk about people without them understanding a word of our conversation.

2) Dates

I opened the newspaper one morning and saw an advertisement for an event in the year 2070...  

Time to get out your 2070 planner!

I’m sure people do not plan their social lives 55 years in advance, so I asked about it and learned that Nepal follows a lunar calendar.  Fortunately for me, there is a website that will convert dates from Nepali to the Gregorian calendar.  I’m thinking I should embrace the culture and start celebrating my Nepali birthday in addition to my Gregorian birthday. 

3) People

Unlike neighboring India, the locals do not have a consistent “look”.  Some people have more Asian characteristics while others look more Indian, which makes it somewhat difficult to look at someone and say that they look distinctively "Nepali".  

From a personality perspective, most people seemed to be very serious at work, and they don’t joke around with each other like Americans and Europeans do with their colleagues.  Despite the serious approach to working, everyone I met was graciously hospitable and eager to assist whenever they were called upon.

A shopkeeper quietly awaits his next sale

Most women wear western-style clothing and men wore a lot of athletic attire.  North Face seems to be the brand of choice, but don’t get confused about authenticity - there are many “label shops” that can brand generic clothing to whatever people request. 

4) Air Pollution

Air pollution in Kathmandu is among the worst I have ever experienced, which is ironic for country known for its outdoor activities.  The majority of people justifiably wear facemasks as they walk or drive through the city.  I honestly could not even roll down the car window without feeling like I would be sick from the fumes. 

5) Tourism

The area of Thamel is home to most tourists who are stopping in Kathmandu.  It is lined with shops, which mostly sell various souvenirs and sporting gear.  The one thing I will remember most about Thamel is the overwhelming number of signs lining the roads.  This reminded me of a less cosmopolitan version of Japan – especially since commercial space extended to the upper-floors of each building. 

Signs everywhere in Thamel

We went to Thamel one evening for window-shopping, but I had no desire to stay long because the roads are narrow (with no sidewalks) and pedestrians have to constantly be aware of rogue motorbikes speeding past them.  Unlike some parts of Asia, there are a lot of foreign tourists around, so I did not look or feel so out of place.   

6) Hotel

I was thrilled to see that the mayhem of the city streets does not extend beyond the gates of my hotel.  Once you enter the resort grounds, it feels like a Nepalese palace.  The hotel has a 1,600-meter running trail through the gardens, outdoor terraces for dining, tennis courts, and beautiful pools.  It almost feels too extravagant for the hotel to have so much land while local people live in such cramped quarters. 

Here's the view from my room

Hard to believe this hotel is near the center of a city

Great place to enjoy al-fresco dining in mid-March

7) Food

Sorry to say but Nepali food is terrible and I have no desire to revisit any of the culinary “delights” I was served over the past two weeks (except maybe yak cheese).  The most common local dish is a runny lentil “soup”, which is poured over rice.  There also seemed to be a lot of curry-spiced potato (which I refused to try) and mystery meat that is literally impossible to chew.

The most famous Nepali food is called “momo”, which is basically a loosely filled dumpling, served with a tomato and garlic sauce and eaten with a fork (no chopsticks).  Aside from the scary food that made me sick in the mountains, momos were the only thing I was willing to try whenever I ate with people outside the hotel.  Next time I go to Nepal, I will most definitely be bringing energy bars with me!

8) Religion

I was surprised to hear that the majority of the population of Nepal is Hindu, considering that Buddhist prayer flags and temples (“stupa”) are so prominent in the city.  I even saw a lot of Buddhist monks walking around with their easily distinguishable robes.  I learned that temples in Nepal are often shared by both religions, which explains why the Muslim population is not so evident to tourists like me. 

Prayer flags proudly displayed around Kathmandu

Just a short walk from my hotel was a large stupa that was constantly filled with people.  They walk around the base of the temple in a clockwise direction, spinning the wheels and burning incense.  Some enter the temple to pray but the majority just continue walking around in circles.  

People fill the squares with religious ceremonies

This stupa is just one of many things that make Nepal unique

During one of my visits to the stupa, I climbed up on the second level and saw a much more spiritual dimension than what exists in the surrounding square.  The religious environment in the plaza around the temples reminded me a lot of Mount Wutai in China. 

Religious ceremony at the stupa

9) Airport

I don’t have much to say about the airport except that it is completely chaotic.  Make sure to leave plenty of time because you need to queue before even entering the building (all luggage goes through a preliminary scan).  Then, queue again for the airline check-in (no self check-in here!).  The third queue is for passport control and then the fourth is for the personal / carry-on scanning.  Once you finally get through all the lines, you can join the masses at the gates.  It is a fond farewell, indeed.  

Here's the scene at the Kathmandu boarding gates

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With so much to do in the mountains outside Kathmandu, it would be easy for tourists to skip the city altogether.  I wouldn’t blame anyone for this decision, although I do think Kathmandu offers a fun city life.  In a world full of comparisons, it was nice to visit a country that maintains its uniqueness.  Nepal truly allows tourists to reach outside their comfort zone and experience something that is completely different.