Sao Paulo, Brazil

I finally visited Brazil!

The flight from Dubai to Sao Paulo (via London) felt like a marathon in the air, but at least I was able to fly business class. Initially, I did not think I would enjoy business class on British Airways because the seats are arranged such that you face your neighbor, but they were separated by a fun divider that could be raised and lowered on demand. It's always nicer when I don't have to look at the person sitting next to me.  

View of business class on British Airways

I chose the seat in the back corner and facing a divider wall, so I had a little cube all to myself. And, for the first time that I can remember, I even slept for a couple hours because I wasn’t vulnerable to people walking up the aisle or sitting inches away with no barrier. One of my more amusing memories from the flight was when the flight attendant peeked into my cube where I was lying as if she was looking into a baby’s crib. She just wanted to check if I was awake and interested in breakfast. I was and I was.

Dinner time in my little pod

I arrived in Sao Paulo in the late evening time, and rode to the hotel alone in a giant minibus that could have fit 16 people. The main road runs alongside a shallow river, and my initial impressions of the city were just as I had anticipated. Ugly.

The next morning, I woke up to a beautiful view of the city from my corner hotel room. There really aren’t and notable buildings in Sao Paulo, but there is an interesting cable bridge near my hotel in the shape of a rounded X. I learned that it is the only bridge in the world with two curved tracks supported by a single concrete mast. My coworker also said that it was on the cover of his college accounting book. The bridge must be exciting if it’s the cover photo for an accounting book!

View from my room in Sao Paulo

I had the entire first day to explore Sao Paulo on my own, so I exchanged some cash at the front desk and took a taxi downtown. Everyone warned me that Sao Paulo is very dangerous, so I left all valuables in the hotel and kept my hands on my wallet at all times. I think I may have been overly suspicious because I even ducked into stores if I noticed someone walking behind me for more than a block or two.

Walking through the city center, I noticed some semi-nice buildings (the Teatro Municipal for example), but I was sad to see that the adjacent sculptures and fountains were completely vandalized by graffiti. It’s such a shame when people treat their city so carelessly. Adjacent to the Teatro Municipal,  I noticed a race finishing and I was immediately jealous that I did not know about it beforehand (of course I would have signed up)!

Grand architecture, ruined by graffiti

A fountain that is far from its glory days. Very sad.

The Theater was a beautiful centerpiece for the city

There were a few pedestrian-only shopping streets that looked vaguely like Europe, but with distinct elements reminding me that I am in South America. I will always remember the public pay phones, which were housed in very 80’s style plastic bubbles.

Pedestrian zone in central Sao Paulo with European architecture

The pay phones remind me that I'm still in South America

This is the only graffiti I can tolerate

The main cathedral (Catedral Da Se) was actually quite beautiful, and the sanctuary was full of people for Sunday morning masses. In front of the church was a park with two rows of palm trees, and lots of people hanging out with family and friends. I always associate South America with a deep religious atmosphere, and this perception was reinforced by the crowds in and around the cathedral. One of my more eerie encounters from the morning happened when I caught a monk peering around the corner of a monastery in “Da Vinci Code”-style fashion!

Religious art in the public plaza

The scene in front of Catedral Da Se

Creepy monk

My favorite place in the city center was the Mercadao Municipal, which looked like it could have been transplanted right out of Spain or Italy. There were rows upon rows of vendors selling everything from produce to bacalao, and also several shops with prepared food and wine. I did not make any purchases, but it was really fun to bring back memories from my time living in Barcelona.

Olives (and olive oil)

Cheese!

Meat!

Stalls at the mercadao

On my way back to the hotel, I thought it would be interesting to walk across the iconic bridge, and I noticed a public bus that would take me right past it. I just assumed that the bus would stop at every station on the map, but I learned the hard way that it only stops if it has a request. As I breezed past the bridge, I thought that I could just get off at the next stop. I didn’t realize that the next stop was about a mile up the road. On the one-way highway.

I got the bus with two options: Walk back to the bridge against traffic, or take a taxi the long way back to the hotel. I was dead-set on seeing this bridge up close, so I decided to walk along the side of the highway like some sort of crazy poor person. When I finally reached the bridge, I discovered that it does not allow pedestrians to cross!! I laughed to myself at this ridiculous situation, hopped into a cab, and returned to the hotel with my dignity somewhere on the highway.

- - - - - - - -

The week ahead was fantastic. Brazilian people are among the most hospitable that I have ever met, and the local team was committed to showing us a fun time in Sao Paulo. From shopping trips, to morning yoga sessions, I really felt like part of the local team. Even though I don’t speak Portugese, I was amazed at how easy it was to pick up words with my Spanish knowledge.

The highlight of the trip was the evening that we went to the Football stadium to watch a heated rivalry between Sao Paulo FC and SC Corinthians. The atmosphere before the game was energetic, even bordering on dangerous, as the fans prepared for their teams to clash. People were tailgating along the nearby streets – eating pork sandwiches, drinking beer, and chanting the team songs while they wore matching jerseys. We slowly made our way to the entrance, where it was an absolute mob scene.

Pork sandwiches in front of the stadium

The gate guards allowed only small groups of people pass through the gates, so people were getting anxious. Once groups were finally allowed to enter, people would literally run up the ramp like they were contestants on Supermarket Sweep. Tons of pushing, shouting, and high tensions. We also noticed some sort of altercation at the ticket collection point, and the police even got out their batons and started beating someone repeatedly. I didn’t catch what was happening, but it was very intense. I just looked straight ahead and stayed as far away as possible!

When we finally entered the stadium, it was packed with people and everyone remained standing throughout the entire match. Chants of “Sao Paulo! Sao Paulo! Sao Paulo!” erupted every few minutes, and the atmosphere quickly became one of celebration as the team continued scoring. The game ended with an unlikely win over the opponents, which was a big relief for me (mainly because I can only imagine the riots that would have ensued with a loss).

Morumbi Stadium

Our group at the football game

Another afternoon, we went to lunch at a famous restaurant in the city center called A Figueira Rubaiyat. So famous, in fact, that it was depicted in a Simpsons episode when Homer visited Brazil. The restaurant design looked like a giant green house, complete with a tree growing out of the center. The food was absolutely incredible, and we had so much fun enjoying an extended lunch on this holiday.

Lunch at the famous Treehouse restaurant

The Simpsons ate at our table :)

On the way back to the hotel, I noticed that some lanes of the road were closed to traffic so people could ride around on their bicycles. It brought me right back to my time in Merida, where bicyclists filled the streets on weekend mornings. The scene was almost quaint, and completely contradictory to the otherwise harsh reputation of the city.

On the last night of the trip, the team asked to take us out dancing, but I just could not keep my eyes open for the 11pm departure from the hotel. I knew that it would be a late night in the middle of nowhere (with no chance to escape), so I opted to go to sleep at a normal hour. I slightly regret not going out, but the idea of staying up all night in a crowded, noisy bar just doesn’t appeal to me – especially leading up to two solid days of flying.

My trip to Sao Paulo was so much better than I could have imagined, and I am grateful to everyone who made it so memorable. Even in such a short time there, I really soaked up the culture and enjoyed learning about the local lifestyle.

Yes, it is a dangerous city, but I was lucky to stay clear of any problems. I noticed women locking their purses to chairs in restaurants, carrying decoy bags in their cars (in case they get held up at a stop light), and keeping mace in their pockets. Precautions like this are part of life here, but the danger doesn’t prevent people from enjoying life. I have so much respect for everyone I met in Sao Paulo, and I can’t wait to go back some day and discover even more of this fascinating country.

Christmas gifts for a professional traveler

For most normal people, a night of sleep in their own bed or an evening out with friends is nothing to get excited about.  For a professional traveler, however, these things are pretty nice gifts. I didn't have a very long Christmas list this year, but I must have been good because I got everything I wanted.  Here are my favorites:  

1) A flight upgrade

My first Christmas gift this year was from American Airlines in the form of a business-class upgrade from Paris to New York.  What a great way to start a vacation!

The experience of flying in the premium cabin really makes a huge difference in international flights - especially for someone who can't sleep sitting up.  I didn't catch any z's on the flight but it was still nice to fully recline and close my eyes for a bit.  The food is also a major upgrade. After a glass of champagne to start the trip, I had a four-course lunch that wasn't served in a foil container, and even included a custom ice-cream sundae for dessert.  

For some reason, American Airlines continues to fly planes to Europe without personal entertainment devices in coach class, so the most important benefit of this upgrade was actually being able to choose movies and shows to watch.  This may seem like a small point, but entertainment is important on an 8-hour flight!

2) A personal airport pick-up

My parents always pick me up at the airport when I come home, which is so much nicer than searching for a stranger holding a sign with the name of my hotel or sitting in the back of a taxi.   

I certainly don't have a problem with being chauffeured around in a luxury sedan to my hotels, but it's so much better when you can spend the ride with people you care about. 

3) My own bed

Hotels are almost like a home for me, but I still enjoy the sense of ease that accompanies my own bed.  I don't have to worry about the dirty people who have stayed in my room before me or whether I will find a strand of the housekeeper's hair in the sheets.  Even though I love having people to clean for me when I am living in hotels, there is a certain level of comfort that simply cannot be achieved unless I am at home.  

4) Time with family and friends

Often, my trips back home are too short to see everyone that I would like to catch up with.  This time, I was lucky enough to have two weeks off, which even allowed me with a couple nights to just relax at home without feeling guilty that I was squandering time that could have otherwise been spent seeing more people. 

5) Christmas Eve traditions

Every year, Christmas eve involves a carefully-orchestrated series of events that should never be altered.  I join my mom at church, which is followed by take-out Chinese/Japanese food with my family.  (This year, I was tired of eating out for every meal so I just paired some appetizers with a simple salad).  

After dinner, I meet up with all my high school friends at the annual Christmas Eve party.  Normally, we are confined to a side room with the most perfectly decorated tree I have ever seen.  This year, however, we were re-assigned to the dining room table, which allowed for much easier access to the desserts and alcohol.  :)

The after-party is a more recent tradition where only the most hearty souls head to another home for late-night libations.  Even though it wreaks havoc on Christmas morning, I feel like a younger version of myself when I can stay up with friends until after 3AM. 

6) A united family

I'm lucky that my extended family enjoys being home for Christmas just as much as I do.  My cousins are spread around the United States (Denver, Washington DC, New York and Boston), yet we all managed to see each other on Christmas Day.  

Annual cousin picture

Beyond just coming together physically, I am lucky that everyone on both sides of the extended family gets along with one another. There are no awkward conversations at the table or subtle insults throughout the meal.  

My brother hosted Christmas at his house, which is ideal for parties because of the open floor plan, two built-in bars, billiard room, and central speaker system that plays music everywhere.  We also discovered the "Heads Up" ipad app, which provided hours of fun as the "youngs" and the "olds" battled it out.  

7) Travel-themed gifts

Let's just face it.  I live out of a suitcase, so I obviously don't need furniture, housewares, or any other gifts that most people my age are finding under the tree these days.   

I figured that new luggage would make for a good gift but I am very specific.  It has to be black, sleek, well-branded, and lighter than what I currently use.  Otherwise, there's no point in updating.   My mom and I spent one afternoon at the mall and we must have looked like crazy people as we picked up every suitcase to inspect the weight and size dimensions like we were searching for a new home.  I suppose my suitcase is like a home since it transports all of my belongings for 3-4 months at a time.  I was so excited to find with one that fit all the qualifications...and with wheels that spin in complete circles.  Score! 

Another gift that only professional travelers would appreciate is metal collar-stays.  Most people have probably never even heard of these, but it is important when the laundry people are constantly losing the plastic ones that come with my shirts.  I can't have my collars flapping around all day!
  
8) A gym membership

Some people need coffee as part of their daily routine.  I need a work-out.  My mom knows this about me, so she always gets me a temporary gym membership when I come home.  Honestly, this means the world to me - especially during the holidays, when I have even more calories to burn.  

It's also a gift to be able to wake up whenever I want and not have to rush to the gym for an abbreviated workout before starting my day.  Throughout my break, I had very leisurely mornings and I often didn't even make it to the gym until around noon.  I know I'm a little nutty for thinking that a vacation should involve MORE time at the gym, but it felt like an adult playground next to the limited equipment options I usually have to deal with on the road.    

9) My own car

When I am traveling for work, I never have access to a car.  It's just too complicated to navigate the roads, so I normally just walk or take taxis whenever I want to go out.  I haven't owned a car since around 2005, so I am well accustomed to this type of transport.  

Having said that, I still really enjoy the freedom to drive myself around with my own car.  Whenever I visit my parents, I get to use one of their extra cars and it is a gift that I will never take for granted.  Part of me feels like I'm on vacation when I can just turn on the music and sing aloud.  I certainly can't do that when I'm riding in the back of a taxi (without people thinking I'm crazy).

10) A snowstorm

I grew up in New England.  Christmas is just not the same without some snow. The weather was surprisingly warm during the first few days of my vacation, but we got a decent storm just after the new year.  The white stuff made my winter vacation feel complete!  

11) Freedom to control what I eat


When I travel, I can't just call room service and ask for a handful of cashews or a granola bar.  I am always forced to accommodate my schedule to that of the local team, and this means no snacking and meals whenever they normally eat.  Even at dinner (when I normally don't eat too much), the waiters always look at me funny when I order just a piece of grilled meat/fish without any sides. "Steamed" vegetables always seem to be laden with oil but I don't have the audacity to instruct the chefs about how I want my food prepared.  

My preferred eating habits have always involved 5 small meals per day, including small snacks whenever I get bored/hungry.  I cook things with very little oil, eat dairy products without any fat, and avoid anything deep-fried.  

Being home is like a gift to my digestive system because I can eat whatever I want, whenever I want.  My body was not too happy about all the excess desserts over the past two weeks, but it's the holidays after all!  Fortunately, almost everything else I ate was much more healthy than I am able to find when I travel.       

12) Fond Farewell

Whenever I finish a work assignment, the local teams must be secretly happy for me to be gone.  (Sometimes it's not such a secret!)  I don't blame them because I am always a huge disruption to their normal operations while I ask questions and pry into their work.  

Trips back home are a completely different feeling, as my friends and family genuinely seem happy to have me back.  At the end of every night out, we discuss when I will be back and it always seems like too long.  For me, a fond farewell is like the wrapping paper on a gift.  It seals the memories of all that exists inside, while also making you want to tear back in and discover the contents of the package.  

This Christmas couldn't have been better and the memories of my gifts will surely come along with me to my next travel destinations.  

Anticipating the holidays

The month of December usually puts me in a festive mood, as I prepare for the holidays with family and friends.  I love seeing the lights on the trees, attending Christmas parties, and even listening to the hokey songs as I rush through the malls.  It's the one time of year when traditions and comforts of home are really important to me. 

I will admit that the weeks leading up to Christmas were difficult for me this year.  My project in Paris was really stressful and I was working completely on my own, without any other human interaction (other than lunch).  

Most of my friends thought I was crazy for complaining about an extended assignment in Paris.  On the surface, I don't blame them.  Paris is a beautiful city - especially during the holidays.  My hotel is literally in the ideal location for exploring the city and it was decorated beautifully for Christmas.  The view from my office was also enough to put even the grinch in a festive mood. 

Christmas lights make everything more festive

However, there was one important thing missing: warmth.  I'm not talking about the heat in the building or even the weather outside.  I'm talking about the feeling that the holidays should bring. 

I tried listening to Christmas music on my computer as I worked.  I also ventured outside the hotel as much as possible, so I could marvel at the decorations around the city and absorb the energy from people around me.  After almost two months in the same place, the excitement of exploring the city had dissipated and I found myself wishing that I could enjoy my surroundings with people I care about. 

Fortunately, I was completely re-energized one weekend when a good friend from my MBA program visited.  Since graduating, we have managed to see each other once per year (2011 in Zurich and 2012 in London) so I was really excited to keep the tradition going.  We walked through the Christmas market near the Champs Elysées, drank some mulled wine, marveled at the lights, and stopped for a traditional tourist picture in front of the Eiffel Tower. 

Enjoying an evening in Paris

By the time we returned to the hotel the first night, we had traversed nearly the entire city.  I barely remember seeing anything because we just talked incessantly everywhere we went.  As much as I wish we could see each other more often, it's so nice to know that we can always pick up right where we left off and have such a fun time together.  

To be completely honest, Christmas decorations in Paris are a mixed bag.  Maybe I have been to too many amazing German Christmas markets, but the one in Paris doesn't even come close.  It was completely overcrowded with tourists (no surprise) and it felt like 90% of the booths just sold junk food and cheap gifts.  There were very few high-quality items for sale and nothing that was really worth stuffing into my suitcase.  It's probably great for kids (several rides, a big ice-skating rink, and even a santa that rides a sleigh along a cable in the sky), but the only thing that appealed to me was the spiced wine.  

Even the lights along the Champs-Elysées were a disappointment, compared to what I was anticipating.  All the pictures I have seen online look like this: 

This is how I imagined the christmas lights to look

But here's the reality: 

This is how the Christmas lights actually looked 

The Arc de Triomphe was right behind me in this photo and it always looks nice all lit up, but what's with the modern LED "rings"??  I want the trees to glitter with traditional lights!!

At least Place Vendôme lived up to expectations, with more Christmas trees lining the street than I could have even imagined.  I was walking past La Canadienne one night and they actually had a live sheep in the display window.  Ok, Paris, you win.  This really is one of the best cities in the world for Christmas shopping. 

Place Vendome, decorated for Christmas

I was so excited to return home that the last few days of the project passed at lightening speed.  Miraculously, all my hard work started coming together and I could see many positive results.  I was proud of myself for persevering through a very difficult project without any guidance and for all that I taught myself along the way.  

Considering all the places I could have been stuck for almost two months, central Paris is actually one of the best alternatives.  Without such beautiful surroundings, the weekend visit from my friend, and encouragement along the way from my parents, I may have actually gone insane.   Fortunately, the project ended on a high note and I could not be more excited to spend two weeks at home with family and friends.