Riding towards Taipei from the airport, I was surrounded by lush green
hills. As we approached the city, mid-level apartment complexes started to
emerge. It was a typical modern urban landscape, other than a few temples in
the hills and a giant red building with traditional architectural elements,
which I learned is the historic Grand Hotel.
The highway was elevated, which allowed me to see into the distance from the car. A peaceful river twisted its way through the city, surrounded by lots of
green space and bike trails. From my initial back-seat perspective, Taipei
looks like a beautiful city with a high quality of life.
My Taipei airport transfer
Once we exited the highway, traffic became heavier and pedestrians filled
the streets. My hotel is located in the main shopping district and adjacent to
Taipei 101 (the world's tallest skyscraper from 2004 to 2010, when it was surpassed by Burj Khalifa in Dubai). From my window,
I got a direct view of the building and the surrounding hills in the
background. I was really excited to explore this city.
View from my window, with Taipei 101 in the foreground
View from the other angle of the hotel
When I walked out the front door of the hotel, my attention was immediately
drawn to live music playing in a nearby park. I walked closer and saw people
waving flags that said “#HUG for Taipei”. I was confused by the message but I
later learned that this was just an election rally (makes sense in retrospect, since it was happening right in front of the City Hall).
I admittedly do not know much about Taiwan’s political environment (other than
its contentious relationship with China), but I am a fan of any place that
turns a campaign rally into a live music concert.
Pre-election rally in front of City Hall
I then walked to the Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall and
arrived just in time to watch the changing of the guard ceremony. I always get
mesmerized by the focused and precise movements, even though I’m not sure what
they are actually guarding since Yat-sen’s body is not buried there.
Adjacent to the main foyer, there is a small museum with various artifacts and
clips from Yat-sen’s life as a beloved leader for post-Imperial China. I’m not
a museum person, so I breezed through this exhibition.
Exterior of Sun Yatsen Memorial Hall
Guard at Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall
I could hear loud music as soon as I stepped outside, and I noticed that
there were at least 5 different dance crews creating and practicing their
routines on the landings. I felt like I was at the auditions for a Taiwanese “Battle
of the Year” remake, but it was much more entertaining than the museum inside
so I stayed around for at least 20 minutes to watch them. The Koreans may have
emerged victorious in the "Battle of the Year" movie, but I think the Taiwanese
dancers are poised to throw down a challenge!
Dance Crew in front of Memorial Hall
Everyone says that night markets are THE thing to see in Taipei, so I decided to visit one as the next stop on my agenda. I
considered trying out the public transport system, but decided instead to grab
a bubble tea and enjoy the sights and sounds of Taipei while I walk there. Walking
proved to be an excellent decision because I stumbled upon a make-shift stage and
theatrical performance on the way. I decided to
stop and watch. Of course I couldn’t understand a single word, but it didn’t
even matter. The colorful costumes, hilarious choreography, and over-the-top
acting was enough to keep me thoroughly entertained until the end of the show.
Impromptu Theatrical Performance
Street performance in Taipei
In case photos don't do it justice, I also took a video clip:
On the other side of the road was a beautiful temple that also piqued my
curiosity. I stepped inside and admired all the decorations for a few minutes.
There wasn’t a single inch of unused space, which always provides a wonderful sensory
overload. As much as I enjoy seeing temples and churches around the world, I feel
like I always miss out on so much information by simply appreciating the
aesthetic elements, rather than taking the time to learn about what everything
means. I could not even determine which religion the temple is dedicated to. I may have ended up with more questions than answers after this stop, but these little discoveries are what make travel so exciting for me.
Outside of the temple
Visitors praying
Another scene inside the temple
Scene inside the temple
I finally arrived at Raohe Street Night market and I was instantly amazed by
the sheer number of people there. Everyone basically moves with the crowd and no one gets anywhere quickly. However, with all the sights and smells surrounding you, there is really no reason to be in a rush. Most of the vendors in the center of the road were
selling junk food, while the shops along both sides were filled with clothing and
other inexpensive gifts. I started to build up an appetite, but nothing
was appealing enough to try (street markets aren't exactly known for their healthy options). Even though I did not end
up buying anything at the market, I can totally see why it is such a famous
place for both tourists and locals. If you haven't been to a night market, you haven't seen Taipei.
Entrance to Raohe Street Night Market
Filling some dumplings
Large quantities of food for the evening rush
Meat on a stick
Deep Fried Goodness
Street markets may get all the attention, but I also found downtown Taipei to be a wonderful area for
high-street shopping. The mall inside Taipei 101 anchors a
pedestrian-only street that is lined with shops and restaurants for at least a
half-mile. I was pretty impressed by the range of brands, some of which I had never even heard of before. Although it was not even Thanksgiving back at home, the Taiwanese people wasted no time in putting up Christmas decorations and getting all the shoppers in the festive holiday mood.
Pedestrian shopping mall at night
Another view from the outdoor shopping mall
My hotel was also decorated nicely for the Christmas holidays:
The hotel is ready for Christmas
The next few days in Taipei involved a lot of food. I love the family-style
atmosphere of Chinese restaurants, but I inevitably eat more than I need. As a foreigner,
I feel even more obligated to try everything that is placed in front of me so I
don’t offend anyone with the false impression that I may not want to try the
local cuisine. Fortunately for me, I enjoyed it all.
My view at almost every meal this week...
Speaking of food… On my last night in Taipei, I had the pleasure of eating
at the famous Din Tai Fung.
This location is in the basement of Taipei 101 and I loved the unpretentious
atmosphere that allows the high-quality food to speak for itself. Din Tai Fung
doesn’t take reservations, so the lobby is always filled with hungry people who
are anxiously awaiting their number to be called. Once inside, my eyes were immediately
drawn to the show kitchen. The dumpling
chefs were crowded around small tables, each wearing a mask and hairnet. They
delicately filled each dumpling and placed it on a bamboo steamer. Din Tai
Fung may not be a fancy restaurant, but it is an experience that anyone should enjoy
in Taipei.
Dim sum chefs at Din Tai Fung
Taipei is a city full of contrasts...
Shortly after watching dance crews push the envelope with an international hip-hop beat, I stumbled across a traditional Chinese theatrical performance.
Taipei is a city full of extremes...
At the same moment that street vendors hastily fill dumplings from a giant vat of mystery meat, nearby restaurants serve dumplings that are made with surgical precision and only using the highest quality ingredients.
Taipei is a city full of surprises...
In a country where Christians comprise only 4% of the population, Christmas decorations fill the streets and hotel lobbies. I felt more in the Christmas spirit here than I did in Paris last December.
In Taipei, you can walk through the streets without an agenda, but still end up with non-stop entertainment. Despite being a modern industrial economy, Taiwan still retains many cultural traditions. I think this variety is what made the city so exciting for me to visit.
Buildings in downtown Taipei are lit up beautifully at night
Even the best cities in the world deserve an escape. Thailand has such a
rich culture and identity, but it’s hard to absorb it all in Bangkok. Like any
big city, Bangkok has been infused with international chain restaurants, Western fashion brands,
and activities that appeal to any international traveler. It is an easy city for
tourists to enjoy, but the urban environment is hardly reflective of Thailand’s
history. I was excited join a tour with some colleagues and visit a few
markets and temples in the outskirts of Bangkok.
Our first destination was the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, which was like
a photographer's paradise. Shortly after arriving, we all piled into boats and set off for our shopping adventure on the river. Our driver navigated the busy waterway while we looked around in awe. Some of the vendors sat in narrow boats and sold everything from fresh fruits to fried noodles. The river was also lined with many small shops. To be honest, there were so many things surrounding me that I found it difficult to focus.
View of the Damnoen Saduak floating market from a bridge over the river
Whenever one of us showed even the smallest interest in anything on display,
the shopkeeper would pull in the entire boat using a long stick with a
hook attached. It is not possible to get out of the boat and walk around the
shop, so all you have to do is point at the things that interest you. The whole experience felt like full-service window shopping. It’s hard to say 'no' to a purchase when
you look at the faces of people who have clearly lived a very difficult life and who
work hard for every dollar they earn.
Shopkeeper at the floating market
Shopkeeper at the floating market
Two women fill their boats with fruit to sell along the river
There were a lot of traffic jams on the river, while the boats stopped for passengers to buy things. It was obvious that this market no longer caters
to locals, but it was fun to get a hint of what the floating markets are like
for people living in rural Thailand.
View of the river from our boat
A woman travels down the river
After the first floating market, we had lunch at a very local seafood
restaurant located in Don Hoi Lot. The restaurant literally
stood above the water on a wide dock, where we could enjoy unobstructed views
of the river. Occasionally, a loud motorboat would pass with a lone fisherman on
board, but otherwise, the atmosphere was completely peaceful. The restaurant
required us to leave our shoes at the entrance and for everyone to sit cross-legged on
the floor. I was constantly fidgeting because my knees are not used to
this seating arrangement, but the authentic flavors and gracious service made up
for the sacrifice in seating comfort.
One of many seafood dishes served to us at lunch
Next, we stopped at Maeklong's Umbrella Market (also called the “railway
market”), which was an experience I will never forget. This market was set up
alongside railroad tracks and the vendors sell mostly food items that include
seafood, produce, and raw meats. At first glance, it looks just like another
local market. However, several times each day, the vendors are required to pull
back their displays in order to allow a train to pass.
Railway Market
Railway Market
A few minutes before the train arrived, a public announcement was made (in
Thai), and suddenly, we witnessed the quiet commotion of the vendors raising
their awnings and pulling back their displays. They knew exactly which items
would remain safe beneath the train and how far to pull back their displays in
order to avoid getting hit.
Railway market prepares for the train to arrive
I don’t think any of us expected just how wide this train was because we
were all in awe as it passed within inches of the food. Within seconds
of the train passing, all of the awnings were down again and the market was
back in business.
We all agreed that we would not be
excited to eat at any of the nearby restaurants, out of concern that they are
serving produce that was literally sitting underneath the passing trains.
Sometimes in a foreign country, we are forced to put blind faith in restaurants
and just hope that we have strong enough immune systems!
Next, we visited the Wat Bang Kung - also known as the "temple in a
tree". I’ll be honest- when I first heard about this place, I imagined it to be more like a tree house. In reality, it is just a regular temple that has become
encased in the roots of nearby banyan trees. Outside the temple, people lit
candles and prayed quietly. Once inside, they paraded around the Buddha – offering gifts and
peeling off small pieces from the gold gilding.
Outside Wat Bang Kung Temple
Adjacent to the temple is a memorial to commemorate a battle between Siam and Burmese
invaders in the 18th century. Apparently it was an important victory that allowed Siam to maintain control of a nearby naval base (or something like that), but to us, it just looked like a series of strange statues in various martial arts poses. I found the statues to be a little tacky,
but they were at least worth a quick photo.
This is Thailand's idea of a memorial
Our final stop for the day was at Amphawa Floating Market. Unlike the market in the morning, this was not entirely located along the river. Instead, the vendors set up on both sides of a narrow road, selling mostly prepared food items. Along the river, there were a few boats selling food, but they were docked and selling to people who walked along the sidewalk. It's a good thing we had just enjoyed a large lunch, because otherwise, I would have wanted to try almost all the food for sale.
One of the boats selling food at Amphawa Floating Market
Overall, we had an awesome excursion out of the Bangkok. In some cities, day trips involve relaxation and enjoyment of the relaxing countryside. However, that's just not the way things work in Thailand. Everywhere you go is full of life and energy. Anyone who travels to Bangkok should certainly venture out of the city to see these unique sites, but they shouldn't necessarily expect a quiet and relaxing day. Relaxation can be enjoyed on the Thai beaches!
Enjoying the floating market with some colleagues!
All obsessive runners will have stories about the time(s)
they had to wake up early for a race. For me, the Bangkok Half Marathon set a new standard
with its 4AM start time.If
that isn’t early enough, the full marathoners actually started at 2:30 – which also
happened to be the same time that my alarm went off. I did not enjoy being jolted
out of a sound sleep in the middle of the night, but I convinced myself that
the feeling of accomplishment at the end of the race would supersede my desire
to sleep a few more hours. After only one snooze, I peeled myself out of bed
and set off for yet another half marathon.
I was feeling good after my rock star carb loading the night
before, with some tasty green curry and mango sticky race for dessert.
Pre-race carb loading
The hotel also arranged a chauffeur-driven Mercedes to transport
me to the starting line at Royal Palace. As I rode through the city at 3AM, it was funny to see all the people coming out of the
bars after a long night of partying. As if there was ever any doubt, I am far from the typical tourist. When I arrived at the assembly point, it was very quiet. People
gradually filtered in – already dressed in full race attire and looking like
they were ready to go. They sat patiently on the curb or stretched alone in silence. The adjacent field had a few booths set up for people to win Standard Chartered merchandise, and some vendors were selling race shirts from
prior years. Unlike some other races, which have more of a party atmosphere at
the starting line, this one was much more focused and serious.
Bangkok Half Marathon starting line...at 3:08 AM
To avoid feeling sleepy, I walked around aimlessly and
scoped out the other runners. Each race bib was printed with the runner’s name, age,
and an image of the flag from their home country. I entertained myself by
trying to predict everyone’s nationality based on how they looked.The vast majority of
runners were from Thailand, but there was a good number of international runners as well. I was clearly not the only person playing this game because I got
a lot of strange looks when people noticed my bib; not because I am American,
but because I was running as the HR Director - a 53-year old
Thai man named Xuwat. I like to think I could pass as several different nationalities, but Thai is certainly not one of them! About 10 minutes before the race start, people began lining up and I noticed that I was one of the tallest people around. There was one other runner around my height, who also happened to be an American. I took a picture of him to illustrate how much taller we were than the rest of the crowd.
Height difference between Americans and Thai people.
The pre-race announcements were in both Thai and English, which I appreciated. I was surprised to hear that this race would be the largest half marathon in Thailand's history, with around 4,500 runners. Just as a frame of reference, the race I ran in Perth earlier this year had ten times as many runners. Between the humidity and the busy streets, I am not surprised that Thai people have yet to embrace a running culture!
I was actually impressed with the course, which took runners on an elevated highway, across a cable bridge, and past several palace-looking structures in central Bangkok. Unfortunately, there was very little crowd support (as can be expected at 4AM). Even though I was running under another person's name, I still pushed myself to finish with a respectable time. Why am I unable to grasp the concept of a "fun run" with a relaxed pace?
My biggest critique about the race is that the kilometer markings were completely messed up, so I don't really know how far I actually ran. In the middle of the race, the half marathon and full marathon courses merged. From that point on, we followed the same course, yet the mile markers didn't increase at the same pace. For example: - sign #1: Full marathon, 32km; Half Marathon, 11km - sign #2: Full marathon, 34km; Half marathon, 12.5km How is this possible?
I never run with a Garmin watch, but always I rely on the mile markers as a gauge for how much energy I should be using. I may be crazy, but that last kilometer felt like it would never end. When I crossed the finish line, my time was a respectable 1:30:13, but it's hard to tell if I really ran 13.1 miles or some other distance! The end of the race was admittedly pretty exciting because there was a decent amount of crowd support cheering us to the finish line. The sky was still completely dark, but the trees along the road were lit up with white lights. Unlike most half marathons, there were no medals given out at the finish line because they were actually provided at packet pick-up. I literally could have skipped the entire race and still ended up with a medal, which just seemed strange to me.
2014 Bangkok Half Marathon medal
The sky was completely dark throughout the entire race, but I still managed to work up a sweat (thanks to the humidity). I can't even imagine what it would have been like if the race was scheduled during the daylight hours. Once I crossed the finish line, I really didn't have much reason to hang around, so I just took a quick selfie in front of the marathon poster, found my driver, and returned to the hotel.
2014 Bangkok Half Marathon Selfie
It is certainly atypical to finish a half marathon and return home before 6AM, but Bangkok is anything but typical. I am grateful to the HR Director for giving me the chance to participate in the event and I am excited to add yet another country to my list of places where I have completed a race. The Bangkok Half Marathon may not have been the most exciting or best organized race in the world, but it was absolutely worth the early morning wake-up call.
Bangkok is one of those cities that just makes me feel happy. The people are so gracious and hospitable, food is amazing, and the atmosphere has a contagious "buzz" that draws me in. My first time visiting Bangkok was back in 2010 and I have so many fun memories from the trip. Needless to say, I was beyond excited to spend two weeks exploring even more of Thailand's capital.
My hotel has a stunning mix of classic and modern design that made me feel right at home. It was also a perfect escape from the chaotic and lively streets. Sensory overload is a big part of Bangkok's appeal, but I don't think I would appreciate it as much if I couldn't escape to such a comfortable retreat each night. Perhaps I have been brainwashed in my current industry, but I really think it is important for travelers to splurge for a nice hotel so they can go to sleep with a sense of ease and wake up each morning feeling refreshed.
My retreat from the busy streets of Bangkok
When I look out over the city each morning at breakfast, the skyline appears just like any other modern metropolis. Buildings and construction cranes fill the landscape around the hotel, while Western businessmen fill the lounge. Walking through the streets is the only way to notice just how quickly Bangkok must have engulfed the local people in its rapid development. The remnants of a simpler day exist on almost every sidewalk, as street vendors sell low-cost food and clothing items to those who can't afford the luxury that now surrounds them. Bangkok truly has something for everyone.
View of the city from the hotel's executive lounge
The staff is always so proud to share their local foods with me and Bangkok is one place where I enthusiastically accept anything that appears on my plate. Thai food is so rich in variety and I was eager to try it all. Knowing this, the staff treated me with a feast of options at every meal. I enjoyed every single thing that I tried, which is very rare for such an otherwise picky eater. Of course I don't remember the names of anything because they were always ordered (in Thai) on my behalf. The staff even brought in some homemade food for me to try throughout my two week stay. The delicate mix of flavors and the fresh ingredients make me think that I would double in size if I lived in Bangkok.
On Friday night, a few of us visited Asiatique. which is an entertainment complex that was formerly a factory district. I loved the fun atmosphere and it actually reminded me of Downtown Disney. Throughout the week, I kept telling people that I love spicy food, so they really tested my limit by ordering some of the most spicy things they could find on the menu. After only a few minutes, I was pouring sweat in the middle of the restaurant, while my local colleagues looked like they were eating a bowl of ice cream. I learned quickly that my tolerance to spice is measured to an entirely different standard.
View of the riverfront from Asiatique
One of the entrances to Asiatique
I couldn't resist riding back to the hotel in a tuk tuk because they are always more fun than traditional taxis. In Bangkok, the polished chrome bars are perfect for reflecting the colorful lights that shine from these noisy, polluting vehicles. My colleagues said that locals never ride in tuk tuks (other than students), and their statement was proven true many times as we approached the hotel.
Riding back to the hotel and looking like tourists
My fascination with Thai culture extends to religion; particularly all the beautiful shrines that are seen throughout the city. There is no official state religion in the Thai constitution, but over 90% of the population is Buddhist and almost every home or building has its own "spirit house" displayed in a very auspicious location to bring good luck. It is not hard to see the many spirit houses in front of each building but I had to keep my eyes open because there were also several beautiful shrines hidden between modern skyscrapers. Here, the Wat Pathumwanaram Ratchaworawihan sits undisturbed between two shopping malls and I would have never noticed it if I didn't look above the barrier walls that separate it from the street.
Wat Pathumwanaram Ratchaworawihan (Buddhist Shrine)
This is what the inside looks like
The Erawan shrine at my hotel is the most widely visited in the entire city. Seated within the shrine is the 4-faced Brahma God and it is constantly surrounded by visitors that offer gifts and prayers. If you don't have a gift to offer, it's no problem because there are countless street vendors nearby selling everything from flowers to fruit. Tourists are also treated to women that sing and dance, wearing some elaborate outfits and dangerous headgear!
Erawan Shrine, as viewed from the pedestrian walkway above the street
This headgear would be considered a weapon in most countries!
Nightlife and shopping are probably the biggest attractions in Bangkok and they are actually somewhat intertwined. Many of the street markets don't even open up until after dark, and they sell everything imaginable (and even some things that you wouldn't imagine). I always thought that bargaining is part of the whole experience, but I found that most vendors these days offer a fixed price to avoid the haggling (which I much prefer). Although the street markets are fun, a lot of the items for sale are very low quality. Nightlife, on the other hand, is amazing from any perspective, and you can enjoy any type of bar without judgment. Dive bars, ladyboy shows, karaoke rooms, and luxury rooftop lounges are all part of the landscape, and the prices are generally much lower than other big cities.
Heineken Bar in front of Central World
Drinks with colleagues from Singapore, Thailand, and Cambodia
Anyone looking for luxury shopping has plenty of options in Bangkok, and the malls are on par with any other major city. Siam Paragon mall has everything from Dior to Burberry, where bags sell for higher than an average working class annual salary. Walking through the mall felt like being back in America. Even the food court was full of American classics such as McDonald's, KFC, Burger King, Cinnabon, and even Garrett's Popcorn.
People with more avant-garde taste in clothing can also find plenty of options in Siam Center mall. If I hadn't just ordered two custom suits for myself earlier in the week, I may have been enticed to splurge for some truly unique clothing. Instead, I just amused myself by window shopping at the widest range of stores I have ever seen - including some that sell eyebrows (which they call "eye wigs"). Who ever heard of such a thing? Only in Asia...
Trendy shop in Siam Center Mall
Browhaus...for your eyebrow needs!
Even people without eyebrows can look beautiful here!
I can't really decide exactly what it is about Bangkok that draws me in. I have been to many places with nice people, good food, and fun nightlife, but Bangkok elevates each of these experiences to the next level in my mind. Elements of Thai culture are apparent to anyone who takes the time too look, but the city also has plenty of modern conveniences that appeal to those who are less willing to branch out of their comfort zone.
Hong Kong is notorious for having one of the most expensive rental markets in the world. Even before moving here, I was prepared to pay a lot for tiny accommodations. What I did not expect, however, was the inefficient and fragmented system that faces anyone looking for an apartment in Skyscraper City.
One of many giant residential buildings in Hong Kong
Just walk down any street and the vast array of rental agencies makes it abundantly clear that this is a lucrative industry. Considering all the choices, my first task was finding a realtor I can trust. One of my American colleagues spoke highly of his realtor, so I visited the office on my first weekend in the city.
The outside windows were completely covered with advertisements of units for rent, and each picture had numbers that meant nothing to me. Unlike all other cities I have lived, apartments list both the gross square footage (including all common areas, including elevators, hallways, etc), and net size (actual liveable space inside the apartment). I almost couldn't believe my eyes when I saw actual apartments for rent with less than 200 square feet of living space. It's like paying to live in prison!
Before even going inside the realtor's office, I noticed a few listings that caught my attention. When I stepped inside, there were rows of workstations that resembled a university computer lab. I introduced myself to the first person who looked up and we had a short discussion about my wish list and budget. He then started searching in his computer.
"What about those places you have posted in the front window?"
"Oh they are not available anymore," he responded quickly, without even looking up from his search. I learned very quickly that the advertisements in the windows are more like examples. The only way to learn true vacancies is to walk inside and talk to someone. So much for efficient window shopping!
After a few minutes, the realtor had found two places he could show me. Both happened to be within walking distance, so he grabbed the keys and off we went. The first unit was above my price range and unfurnished. I gave a quick courtesy look, but then explained my preferences again. The second unit was a two bedroom - also not what I had asked for.
On the way back to the agency, I asked if he could show me some other neighborhoods and he explained that I would have to talk to other realtors if I want to look in other neighborhoods. Upon hearing that, I knew instantly that my search would be significantly more complicated than I had anticipated.
Over the next couple weeks, I visited what felt like thirty different rental agencies, scattered throughout the city. Some of them could show me units immediately, while others asked me to make an appointment and come back at a later time. Most of the time, they would start by showing me units that did not meet my specifications (too large, too small, too expensive, missing appliances, no furniture). I got tired of going through the same charade every time I met a new realtor.
Every day, I received countless messages from the realtors with available units. I felt like I was dating multiple people at once and I honestly couldn't keep track of them all. My first important victory occurred when I finally decided that I want to live within walking distance to my office in Kowloon. However, while that decision allowed me to "dump" all my realtors in other neighborhoods, it also meant that I needed to find additional ones in the area near my apartment. Why? Each realtor has a separate inventory and there is no central database from which to search available units for rent. Without talking to several realtors, I would be drastically limiting my options.
When I was in Singapore, I felt like I needed to keep up with the search, so I went on Craigslist to look at some online listings. Despite all the warnings that "listings online are usually not even real apartments" and "locals do not use Craigslist", I found a place that looked like a great fit. I set up an appointment to see the apartment on the evening that I returned to Hong Kong. It ended up being just what I am looking for, and I would be renting directly through the owner (no realtor commission). Was it too good to be true?
Throughout the next week, I spent countless hours debating whether it was worth the risk. I have had a lot of success with Craigslist in the past (that is where I found my Chicago apartment back in 2011) but I just couldn't shake the fears of a possible scam - especially since I have to pay 3 months rent when I sign the contract. I did a lot of research but there is really no guaranteed way to eliminate the risks. Were my concerns based on anything concrete or was it was just an underlying lack of trust in the entire process? I just kept envisioning that this "owner" would disappear with my money and that I would never end up with the keys. In the end, I decided not to take the risk. Back to square one.
The next week, a local coworker offered to search with me one afternoon. I think he felt badly for me. Initially, the search started just like all the others. The first place we saw had no fridge, no oven, no washing machine. The next one was in a dilapidated building and it had two unfurnished bedrooms. We kept going in and out of realtor offices. My coworker would usually say a few words in Cantonese and then walk out, shaking his head from side to side. This was not going well.
Just as we were about to give up, we went to one last agent. After a short conversation in Cantonese, my coworker said: "They have one place you might like on the penthouse level." My ears perked up with a mix of excitement and hesitation. We walked over to the building, took the elevator to the top floor, walked another flight of stairs (because the top floor in this building is actually above the elevators). From the moment I saw the view, I was sold. The apartment overlooks Kowloon Park, with views of Victoria Harbor and the Hong Kong skyline.
The owner was also in the middle of renovations. There was a brand new TV on the wall, a new mattress covered in plastic, and plenty of built-in shelving for clothes. The tour only lasted about thirty seconds (you don't need much time to "tour" these tiny apartments) and I wasted no time in making a verbal commitment. Before leaving the apartment, we scheduled a time to meet a few days later so I could pay my deposit and sign the contract.
During the housing search, I learned many things about Hong Kong. Despite being such a modern and fast-paced city, the rental market is still very traditional. Online listings are used more as a source for connecting people rather than actually showcasing vacant units. It is almost impossible to search for an apartment from abroad. In most cases, the owner likes to meet the prospective tenants. There is still a lot of racial stereotyping. As a Westerner, most realtors assumed I had an unlimited budget, a desire for lots of space, and an aversion to living among locals. And, like so many other countries, you get much better options when you know someone who can speak the local language. Rental commissions are hefty, but the system is built in a way that is almost impossible to avoid a realtor without taking huge risks. I am happy with my decision, but I can't help wondering what could have happened if I ended up with the Craigslist rental. If I was in the United States, I would have paid the deposit and signed the lease without hesitation. I perceived my risk to be higher here without any tangible reasons because the same risks also exist at home. The only reason it felt like a scam is because everyone kept telling me it had to be a scam. In my opinion, the rental business in Hong Kong is ripe for a transformation, much like the way Craigslist, Uber, and AirBNB have transformed their respective industries in the United States. I just don't know if the local market will allow the tipping point to take place.
Ask any American which day of the year rings up the highest amount of online shopping sales worldwide and I guarantee that almost everyone will say "Cyber Monday". The first work day after Thanksgiving has become infamous for all the hours of lost productivity, while people around the country try to scoop up the best deals online.
Little do any of us know, American consumers being upstaged by Chinese shoppers on November 11th - also known as "Singles Day".
Until this year, I had never even heard of Singles Day. While Americans honor military veterans, single people across China are honoring themselves. As a single person, I think it is important to seek retribution for all the lovey-dovey Valentine's Day traditions. We deserve to shower ourselves with gifts, since no one else will do it.
China may not be the world's biggest economy but it is one of the fastest growing. Singles Day is just one of many examples that prove the influence of Chinese consumers on the global economy. I am excited to be living in such a dynamic region and experiencing the rapid growth first-hand.
Now that I am a local resident, I figure it only makes sense to celebrate local traditions. With that in mind, I went out after work and got fitted for two custom-tailored suits and shirts. Happy Singles Day to me!
